Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/28/15 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/28/15

UnCruise Adventures Hawaii on Safari Explorer

This seven-night Hawaii cruise reminded us of what we love about Un-Cruise Adventures.

Itinerary: Moloka'i, Moloka'i, Lana'i, Lahaina, Maui, Kona, Kona, Kona

Hawaii is one of the most desirable travel destinations in the world, especially for Americans. But, most who visit Hawaii may only visit one or two of the islands, usually Oahu and Maui, never venturing out to see the less visited parts of Hawaii. This is especially true if you come to Hawaii as part of a cruise. Cruise ships tend to dock at the larger ports, on the larger islands, with facilities that can handle 1,000 or more travelers at a time. UnCruise Adventures takes a completely different approach to Hawaii. A smaller ship allows UnCruise to take guests to the hidden gems of Hawaii, rarely seen by tourists. UnCruise Adventures Hawaii sailings are meant for those who want to actively engage with the islands and the environment, not simply see the islands.

THE SHIP - SAFARI EXPLORER

Safari Explorer is small by cruise ship standards --- very small. The ship only has 18 cabins and a maximum guest capacity of 36. There were 29 guests on our sailing. The ship is uniquely outfitted for discovery and adventure cruising. Three decks make it easy to see action in the water and provide plenty of room for relaxing and breathing fresh air. The Wine Library, salon, and adjoining dining room encourage mingling among guests. The B Deck is the best for whale watching with a wrap around "promenade" of sorts which allows direct access to the bow of the ship.

*Safari Explorer anchored off the coast of Lana'i*

Safari Explorer is equipped with kayaks, paddle boards, inflatable skiffs, snorkel equipment, wet suits, and hiking poles. All are available to guests on a complimentary basis. A hydrophone provides the opportunity to listen to below-surface sounds. The UnCruise website mentions a bow-mounted underwater camera that "pipes the action to the lounge and to TVs in each cabin", but we never saw the feed from the camera. The spa area located on the top deck (A) aft includes a large on-deck hot tub, sauna, fitness equipment, yoga mats, and complimentary massage. However, the hot tub is only used on Alaska sailings.

It should be noted that this ship is not equipped with an elevator and really is not a good fit for someone with mobility issues. Guests should be able to navigate stairs and have the ability to get on and off the skiffs, which are used to transport guests ashore. That said, one of our fellow uncruisers was using a cane in the aftermath of a knee replacement, and she was able to get around the ship and skiffs just fine.

*Deck B offers great viewing opportunities, and is good for drying wet swimwear!*

The interior public spaces on Safari Explorer are all located on Deck C midships. They are compact, but comfortable, at least for 29 people. The small 'salon' was a little crowded when everyone was enjoying cocktail hour, or a lecture. With a full complement of guests, the Wine Library would have to be used for additional seating. The bar is fully equipped and all cocktails, beer and wine are complimentary on Hawaii sailings.

*The Wine Library offers a comfortable, relaxed place to sit and enjoy a cocktail*

Located next to the bar is a large selection of DVDs available for guest use (stateroom TVs have DVD players). There is a piano and a guitar in the Wine Library, just in case any guests care to entertain others. There is a small selection of logo items for sale displayed in cases in the Wine Library.

ACCOMMODATIONS - ADMIRAL

There are six cabin categories aboard the Safari Explorer: Single; Master; Commander; Captain; Admiral; and Commodore Suite. Depending on the cabin, singles, doubles or triples can be accommodated. Cabins are generally small, but very efficient. The accommodations are not "luxury" by cruise ship standards, but by expedition ship standards, they are very nice.

Common to all cabins are: heated tile floors in the bathroom; air conditioning; Tempur-Pedic® memory foam mattresses; flat-screen TV/DVD; iPod docking station; view windows (no portholes); private bath with shower. At first, we found the memory foam mattress to be uncomfortable, but it somehow delivers a very good night's sleep. Storage space is at a premium in these cabins. We had an Admiral category (cabin B1), so we had more space than most, but finding a place to put everything was a challenge. In our cabin, there were two chairs that were probably unnecessary and the space could have been better used with more shelves or a dresser. We just ended up piling camera gear and other stuff on the chairs. The rule of thumb is to pack only what you absolutely need. And, on an UnCruise sailing, you really don't need much. There are no "formal" nights. You can even wear shorts to dinner, so leave your dressy stuff at home.

Admiral cabins are located on B Deck forward just aft of the bow and are subject to noise from the ship's anchor, so be aware. You may also experience more motion on the A and B decks. Other than the occasional anchor noise, our cabin was very quiet and the AC system worked very well. The bathroom was nicely sized for a small ship and everything worked as designed.

ACTIVITIES & ENTERTAINMENT

The main activity on an Un-Cruise sailing revolves around the destination. If you are looking for production shows, bingo, a casino, you want a cruise, not an uncruise. But, if you want to get up-close to the destination and its culture, the wildlife and the environment, you have come to the right place. Snorkeling was the most popular activity on this sailing, with outings nearly every day.

The ship provides guests with all the necessary snorkel gear (fins, masks, snorkels, etc.). Each guest cabin is assigned a locker on Deck C aft where snorkel gear is stored between uses. Of course, you can bring your own gear, but it is not necessary. Large bins are filled with fresh water where you can dunk your gear when you return to remove the salt water. There is also a fresh water shower located aft on Deck C to rinse the salt water off of you before you return to your cabin.

*Lockers are provided to store snorkel gear*

All snorkel excursions are accompanied by ship expedition leaders in the water and on the skiff. There is an emphasis on safety and you are never more than a few feet from a trained and skilled staff member. Floating noodles and other flotation gear are available on the skiffs to help you stay on top of the water without fear of sinking to the briny depths. The ship is also equipped with two-person kayaks. We were disappointed that we only had one opportunity to kayak during this cruise. One kayak excursion was cancelled due to rough seas. Kayak excursions were also "led" by an Un-Cruise expedition leader who provided commentary along the way.

There are also opportunities for swimming off the ship's back deck, diving into the ocean from a special dive platform on B Deck, skiff tours of the coastlines, and paddle boarding. There were also some guided hiking opportunities. We went on the hike to the crest of Sweetheart Rock in Lana'i. At sunset, it was the perfect spot for taking some memorable photos.

*The sunset hike to Sweetheart Rock in Lana'i provides great photo opportunities*

The highlight of the cruise, however, was the night snorkel excursion with manta rays in Kona. Guests were fitted with wet suits and transported to the snorkel site where divers on the ocean floor shine bright lights upward through the water to attract plankton. The plankton are attracted to the light, and the manta rays are attracted to the plankton, their main food source. Guests wearing snorkel gear float face down in the water while holding onto a surfboard apparatus and watch as the huge rays swoop up from the bottom of the ocean to scoop up the plankton, then gracefully roll over just feet from the snorkelers and dive back down to repeat the feeding process. Some of these manta rays have a wingspan of 18 feet or more! I can guarantee you this is something you will never get to do on any other cruise, and it is something everyone must do.

Another popular activity is whale watching. Even though it was a little early in the season, we did spot a few humpback whales in the waters off the coast of Maui.

As previously mentioned, the B Deck is the best spot for whale watching with its wraparound deck and large bow space, which also happens to be the perfect place to enjoy a beautiful Hawaiian sunrise or sunset.

*Guests mingle at the bow to enjoy a Hawaiian sunset*

As for on board entertainment, there were a few lectures conducted by the Expedition Leader, Dai Mar, and Expedition Guide, Mitch. We also had locals come on board to talk about Hawaiian culture and about manta rays. The Bilge Rats, Troy and Gavin, who are two crewmembers, entertained us after dinner one evening with their musical talents.

DINING

Probably the biggest surprise was the quality of the food on board Safari Explorer. It was amazingly delicious! In fact, I am going to step out on a limb here and say that it was some of the best food we have had on any cruise. We have sailed on three other UnCruise Adventures cruises, and, while the food has always been good, it was not at this level. Executive Chef Joe and Pastry Chef Justin were killing it in the galley on this cruise. Each morning, a breakfast 'special' was offered. Eggs made-to-order, bacon and toast were always available if the special was not to your liking. At the end of breakfast, Chef Joe would greet everyone and announce what was on the menu for lunch and dinner. Guests were asked to pre-order their dinner selection, which typically included a meat, a fish and a vegetarian option. This was to give the chef an idea of how many of each dish to prepare.

*BBQ chicken on pineapple fried rice was a delicious lunch offering*

As with breakfast, lunch has a 'special' that changes each day. If you do not want the special, the chef can prepare a sandwich, salad, grilled cheese or some other light alternative. We had the special every day for both lunch and breakfast and all were very good. At dinner, Chef Joe pulled out all the stops with some really creative dishes that were expertly presented and delicious. The beef filet with mushroom wine reduction on the first night should have tipped us off to what was to come. For guests who found it impossible to decide on a main course, 'half-and-half' orders were accommodated. One evening, I combined the duck breast (cooked perfectly medium rare) and the seared scallops, ordering a half-portion of each. Both were expertly prepared and delicious. At last we found a cruise ship chef who is not afraid to season the food!

Each meal was taken to another level with freshly-baked bread from pastry chef, Justin, that you could spread with the butter that was topped with a sprinkle of Hawaiian sea salt. Bread baskets were returned to the galley empty, I can tell you that. And the desserts were incredible, too. It is rare that I have the opportunity to rave about cruise ship food, but I have to give props to Chefs Joe and Justin. Rickee even ate breakfast and lunch every single day, something I cannot recall her ever having done before on any cruise.

THE CREW

Every member of the Safari Explorer crew was exceptional. Our Expedition Leader, Dai Mar Tamarack, obviously loves what he does. The same can be said for Mitch, Shane, Amy and the rest of the expedition team. They are very knowledgeable and passionate about the destination and the experience they provide to their guests. Dai Mar was always available to answer questions or give commentary on the local area we were visiting.

We had sailed with Captain Sean in the Sea of Cortez a few years ago, so we knew he was capable. On the first night of the cruise, he informed us of the 'open bridge' policy, allowing guests to visit the bridge. We found it to be a great place to do whale watching.

*First Mate, Amy, pilots Safari Explorer as we look for whales*

THE GUESTS

On our sailing, the average age was probably in the neighborhood of 50 to 60. My best guess is that the oldest was around 70 and the youngest around 40. There were no children on this voyage. Everyone was generally fit and most were very interested in snorkeling and hiking. On a ship this size, you get to know people quickly and it is not uncommon to make friends and lasting relationships. One of the great benefits of small ship cruising is that you have the opportunity to get to know your ship mates. Most of the folks we met are not typical "cruise" people. They are not here for a "cruise." To them, the ship is just a mode of transportation to get them from one snorkel destination or hiking opportunity to the next.

SUMMARY

UnCruise Adventures has tapped into something unique. The "expedition" cruise segment is growing rapidly, and some other cruise lines are now trying to get into this space. But, UnCruise is different than all the rest. The ships are smaller, the destinations are more remote, and they are really trying to appeal to consumers who can not see themselves on a "cruise" ship. As stated previously, this is our fourth UnCruise sailing, and we have enjoyed each and every one of them. Our Hawaii sailing was no exception. This is a great experience and one that everyone should put on their travel bucket list!

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/15/15 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/15/15

Holland America Nieuw Amsterdam Review (2015)

We enjoy a seven night Caribbean cruise aboard Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam

Itinerary: Fort Lauderdale, Half Moon Cay, At Sea, Grand Cayman, Cozumel, At Sea, Key West, Fort Lauderdale

This was our second sailing aboard Nieuw Amsterdam. The last time was back in 2010 when the ship was nearly brand new. We are pleased to report that, other than a few name changes of venues here and there, not much has changed. If you loved Nieuw Amsterdam back then, you will still love it today.

THE SHIP

With a gross tonnage of 86,700, Nieuw Amsterdam is considered a mid-range ship it a world where 140,000+ ton ships now carry 5,000 or more passengers. She can carry a capacity of 2,106 guests, has 11 decks, two pools and just about everything else you would expect to find on a cruise ship.

*Nieuw Amsterdam docked in Cozumel, Mexico*

EMBARKATION

We arrived at Port Everglades just after 1pm and a long line was already forming outside of the terminal building. We were informed that we should not arrive before 12:30pm. It took close to two hours for us to get through security and snake through the long lines to get our boarding cards. It was one of the longest embarkation times we have experienced. If you want to avoid the long, slow moving line, show up at noon or wait until after 2:30pm until the lines begin to die down. It is a long time to stand and we did not see any place to sit while waiting.

DISEMBARKATION

Guests are assigned color-coded luggage tags indicating their time for disembarkation. Generally, this is determined by the time of your flight. We had a 10:55am flight out of Miami, so we opted for the Expedited Disembarkation. We were surprised to see that a large number of guests chose this option. There were more than 100 people already waiting in line to disembark when we arrived on Deck 2 at 7:30am. With the Expedited option, you must carry off all your own luggage. We have two large duffel bags which have handles and wheels, so it is not a big deal for us to roll off our own luggage. We were able to swipe our stateroom key for the last time at around 8:10am. The lines at U.S. Customs were not too long and we were in front of the terminal by 8:20am.

PUBLIC SPACES

Even though Nieuw Amsterdam is going into its sixth year of service, there are very few signs of wear. Carpeting in most public areas looks fresh, and even new in some spaces. The same is true for the furnishings. The only real noticable wear is the carpet in the elevator lobbies, understandable as those areas get a lot of traffic. The wooden rails on stairwells and hallways could use some refurbishment. Other than that, the ship looks as good as new.

OUTDOOR SPACES

There are two pools on Nieuw Amsterdam, both on the Lido Deck (9). The Lido Pool is covered by a sliding roof that can be opened in nice weather or closed when it rains or in colder climates. The Sea View Pool is located aft on Deck 9 and is an adults-only pool. There are plenty of clean towels available for guest use at both pools. There are several areas where guests can find loungers to get all the sun they desire. A nice, expansive promenade deck wraps around Deck 3 and is perfect for morning walks. Joggers may prefer Deck 10, however.

Lido Pool

There are semi-private cabanas available for rent at the Lido Pool starboard side as well as on Deck 11 overlooking the Lido Pool. The cabanas on Deck 11 rent for $75 per day on sea days and were fully booked when we inquired at Reception.

STATEROOM

Our Category VT Veranda Stateroom (4031) was located on Deck 4 (Upper Promenade) forward. These staterooms can range in size from 213 to 379 sq. ft. including the balcony. Our stateroom had a pretty large balcony, even though we were not able to use it for much of the cruise (more on that later). The signature Mariner's Dream™ bed from Sealy was comfortable. The bed linens were not what we would call luxurious, but they were above average for this class of stateroom. Other than the two small drawers in the night stands, there are no other drawers for storage. There are, however, several shelves available for storage in the three floor-to-ceiling closets. An electronic safe is also included to store valuables.

There is a small love seat-sized sofa and coffee table across from a small desk/vanity/mini-bar. A cushioned cube serves as an extra storage bin as well as a desk chair. The mini-bar/fridge is stocked with soft drinks, beer and liquor for purchase. The refrigerator in our cabin didn't cool the contents very well. We placed our own bottle of wine in the fridge for three days and it barely got below room temperature. I could not find any adjustment inside the fridge to make it cooler. There is a lighted makeup mirror on a hinge, but the hinge on ours was broken making it difficult to use the mirror.

*Mini-Bar/Desk/Vanity combo (storage cube/seat underneath)*

The large flat screen television mounted on the wall across from the bed was very nice and Holland America has some of the best programming you will find on any cruise line. A variety of channels (BBC, MSNBC, FOX,CNBC, ESPN, ESPN2), complements a large selection of On Demand movies and television shows. DVD players are no longer needed and have been removed.

The bathroom places function over form. Ours had a bathtub/shower combo with pre-filled liquid dispensers for body wash, shampoo and conditioner. However, the dispenser for body wash was empty when we arrived. It was refilled the following afternoon. On the second day, the sink would not drain. We reported this to Reception, but it was not fixed for two days. After we reported it the second time to Reception, and on a mid-cruise comment card, it was fixed within hours.

*Smoking on balconies is a policy we would like to see changed*

Even though our stateroom had an adjoining door to the stateroom next door, it was reasonably quiet throughout the sailing. The exception was during the evening shows and afternoon rehearsals when the loud music invaded our space. Our stateroom was located just above the Showroom at Sea. There were no annoying squeaks or rattles and the HVAC system, while not silent, was not intrusively noisy. Only on the last night of the cruise could we hear the television in the stateroom next door. Our only major complaint with the stateroom revolves around Holland America's smoking policy. HAL still allows guests to smoke on their balconies, and one of our neighbors was a chain smoker. In fact, I am not sure he ever left the balcony. Every time we tried to use our balcony (which was very nice and large), we were assaulted with cigarette smoke. No smoking on balconies is a policy most other cruise lines have already implemented and it is one we would like to see Holland America adopt. At times, cigarette smoke invaded our cabin and could be smelled in the hallways.

Because of the smoking issue and a few little niggles, we would rate the stateroom a 3 out of 5 for overall comfort.

DINING & FOOD

Nieuw Amsterdam offers guests a lot of choices when it comes to dining. The main restaurant is Manhattan Dining Room on Decks 2 and 3 aft. The Manhattan serves full menu service breakfast and lunch on sea days and evening dinner every day from 5:15 to 9:00pm. Holland America still offers traditional early or late seating as well as an As You Wish option allowing guests to reserve a specific dining time of their choosing. We took advantage of the As You Wish option and found it to be a good choice for us. Our experiences in Manhattan were good. Our waiter, Adi, was excellent and we appreciate all of the attention from Hadi, the Dining Room Manager. The menus in Manhattan are varied and the dishes we were served ranged from average to good. Every now and then a dish will stand out, like my Rack of Lamb, or the Chocolate Souffle, but otherwise it is pretty standard fare.

*Rack of lamb in Manhattan Dining Room was very good*

The Lido Market is the ship's lido buffet located Deck 9 aft. Guests can dine here every day for breakfast, lunch or dinner. At lunch, the variety is exceptional. There is an Asian station (starboard) with dishes that change every day representing Vietnam, Thailand, China, India an Indonesia. A Mexican food station is port side. In the evening, there is a substantial pasta station making a variety of made-to-order pasta dishes. At one end of the Lido Market, sandwich lovers can find a selection of pre-made deli sandwiches in to-go bags along with a bag of chips. There is an extensive salad bar and a dessert bar with hand-dipped ice cream. We dined in Lido Market a few times and honestly, the food was okay, but nothing really stood out. One nice change is that crew members now serve all dishes from behind the serving line. We assume this is to lessen the risk of spreading Norovirus through guests' handling of serving spoons. Good idea! In fact, Holland America has really stepped up when it comes to mitigating the risks associated with potential Norovirus outbreaks. Purell hand sanitizer dispensers can be seen at the entrance of every public room on board the ship.

Canaletto is the ship's Italian-themed specialty restaurant occupying the midship port side corner of the Lido Market dining space. In the evenings, this area transforms into a romantic Italian bistro which delivered the best dish I had during the cruise. It costs only $10 per person to dine in Canaletto, making this the best specialty dining value on the ship. The Beef Short Rib Gnocchi was hands down one of the best dishes I have had on any cruise, and that was just the pasta course!

Editors' Choice Award for TamarindTamarind is the Asian-Fusion specialty restaurant located on Deck 11 midships. Dining in Tamarind will set you back $20 pp, but you get a lot of bang for the buck here, as well. Your Tamarind experience can start with a pre-dinner cocktail at Silk Road, the restaurant's Asian-themed bar/lounge located right across from Tamarind. Our dinner in Tamarind was very good. The Five-Spice BBQ ribs were my favorite starter and the Penang Curry Coconut Chicken was my favorite main course. Tamarind remains one of the better specialty restaurants on any cruise ship. And don't forget to try the Thai doughnuts for dessert!

Pinnacle Grill is Holland America's signature steak house and is the most expensive specialty restaurant at $29 pp (dinner). On several days, a lunch menu is also available here for $10 pp. Our past experiences with Pinnacle Grill have all been good ones. The restaurant is really geared toward meat lovers. You won't find a better steak anywhere for this price, so a visit to Pinnacle Grill is advised.

Of course, you can always have a pizza or burger during the day at New York Pizza (Deck 9 aft) and Dive In (Deck 9 midships).

BAR SERVICE

Bar service throughout the ship is generally very good. Waiters and waitresses circulate the lounges to take orders and deliver drinks. Holland America has a long history of hiring friendly, engaging Indonesian crew members, and that tradition remains. As for the drinks themselves, we found the sweeter "designer" drinks to be lacking in alcohol content. I had a Pinã Colada that seemed to be void of rum. We ordered two Asian-themed "fruity" drinks in Silk Road and again, could not detect any alcohol. Drinks are not cheap, but not overpriced. A Dewar's White Label Scotch will set you back $6.95 + 15% gratuity, or a total of $7.99. A Pina Colada or other frozen drink costs $7.75 + tip, or $8.90 total. A glass of house champagne is a very reasonable $5.50+tip and Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) is $6.00+tip.

*A Margarita is a cold, refreshing treat*

The Ocean Bar (Deck 3 midships) and the Crow's Nest (Deck 11 forward) offer a daily Happy Hour from 4pm to 5pm. During this time, you can enjoy most cocktails for a 2-for-1 + $1 price. Basically, buy one and get the second one for $1. We noticed the Crow's Nest really starts filling up around 4pm with guests trying to take advantage of the offer. There are also daily drink specials for $6.50 (reduced from $7.75) that change each day. Waiters pass trays of appetizers during Happy Hour.

Holland America does offer a Signature Beverage Package for $44.95 per day/per person. With this package, you can enjoy up to 15 beverages per day. This includes beer, wine, spirits, cocktails, coffee, or soft drinks.

The package must be purchased within the first 48 hours of the cruise
The card can only be used on drinks that cost $8.00 or less
A 15% service charge is not included and will be applied to purchases
Everyone 21 and over staying the same stateroom must purchase the package
Excludes mini-bar, Half Moon Cay and in-stateroom dining purchases
Only one drink may be ordered at a time
Other restrictions may apply Download PDF here

Liquor Policy: Holland America will allow guests to bring one bottle of wine per person on board during embarkation although we did see several people in line at embarkation who were carrying at least six bottles each. If you bring more than one bottle, you can pay an $18 per bottle corkage fee, or you can check the bottle and have them hold it for you until disembarkation. Guests are not allowed to bring hard liquor on board. If you purchase beer, wine or liquor in port, the ship will hold it for you until disembarkation.

ENTERTAINMENT & ACTIVITIES

Holland America entertainment has steadily improved over the years. The production shows featuring the Nieuw Amsterdam singers and dancers were well produced and choreographed. The shows have integrated some of the Cirque du Soleil-like stunts that have become so popular. The Showroom at Sea theater is comfortable with good acoustics, but there are sight line issues with some seats due to large support columns. Best advice is to arrive early and get a good seat.

The guest entertainers we saw were very good with the MacDonald Brothers from Scotland being our favorite show.

Cruise Director, Mario, and his staff do an impressive job of providing a wide variety of daytime activities throughout the cruise. There is always something going on somewhere around the ship. The Digital Workshop is a unique venue that offers a variety of classroom instruction on Windows 10, digital photography, photo editing, etc. The classes are free and very well conducted.

SPA & FITNESS CENTER

The Greenhouse Spa is located on Deck 9 forward, as is the well-equipped fitness center. A Thallasotherapy pool is good for a relaxing soak, but there is a cost involved. If you want access to sauna, steam and Thallasotherapy, prepare to invest about $129 per person/per week for the privilege. If you just want to soak one day, it is $40/pp. When we sailed on Nieuw Amsterdam in 2010, it was only $10 to use the wet area. Who says there's no inflation? Of course, if you book a massage or other spa treatment, the sauna/steam/Thallasotherapy is part of the deal for that day. The Greenhouse Spa offers a complete menu of massage therapies, scrubs and other treatments to make you look and feel your best. There is a complete beauty salon, too.

INTERNET/WI-FI SERVICE

Nieuw Amsterdam offers guests a variety of Internet/Wi-Fi plans, as follows:

600 minutes for $199
400 minutes for $159
200 minutes for $99
30 minutes for $19
Unlimited for $249

The Internet service was slow, as you may expect aboard a cruise ship. Connections to the Internet were reliable, but the system automatically logs you out every 15 minutes or so, requiring you to log in again. That can be pretty annoying when working on a long document online only to have all your work lost when you go to post your changes. I soon learned to copy the contents of emails or other documents to the clipboard before posting. We purchased the Unlimited Plan ($249) (we do a lot of blogging and Tweeting from the ship). Wi-Fi connections were available throughout the ship, as well as in our stateroom. I was annoyed that my $249 Internet package was shut off at midnight the night before disembarkation. That meant I could not check email, post a blog, or check on our airline gate information on the morning of disembarkation. In our opinion, the Internet service is still way overpriced for what you get, and that is not unique to Holland America. But, I guess as long as people continue to pay it, let the market decide. We also had difficulty printing our boarding passes the day before disembarkation.

*Early morning blogging from Explorations Cafe*

STAFF

The mostly Indonesian crew aboard Holland America ships has a long-standing reputation for friendly service. More than anything else, this has earned Holland America a fierce loyalty from repeat guests. Every crew member with whom we interacted was warm, smiling, and eager to serve. Our Manhattan Dining Room waiter, Adi, was very efficient and delivered excellent service. Dining Room Manager, Hadi, was the first to greet us when we boarded and made sure we had a table reserved each evening. The Reception staff was also very friendly and helpful. It was the norm to be greeted by crew as you passed by anywhere on the ship.

CLIENTELE

Holland America has traditionally appealed to an older demographic. However, this is an image that the company has been attempting to change over the past several years. You will see many more families, younger couples and 40-somethings on today's Holland America than in years past. The demographics of this particular cruise did lean toward an older crowd, most likely because kids are in school this time of year. There were a few families with small children, but very few.

DRESS CODE

Cruising is much more casual than it was 20 years ago. And, Holland America reflects that trend. They have even re-branded "Formal Night", now calling it "Gala". It is not so much a change in policy as it is a new name to more accurately reflect the acceptable attire on "dressy" nights. On "Gala Dress" night, we saw only a few tuxedos, many more suits and ties, and even more sport coats with ties. There were even a considerable number of men with polo shirts or dress shirts, with no jacket. The times they are a-changin'.

On Smart Casual nights, we even saw shorts in the Manhattan Dining Room! I think we are heading toward a time where there will be no dress code.

ITINERARY

The Western Caribbean is a good itinerary, especially for first-time cruisers. Grand Cayman is overcrowded because of all the large cruise ships anchored here on nearly every day of the week. But, there are some great excursions available here. George Town is also a good place to just get off the ship's tender and walk around, and, perhaps do a little shopping. Cozumel is crowded as well, but well worth a visit and a look-see. Both locations offer good snorkeling, scuba and a variety of other water sports. There is not as much to do in Key West, but it is still a pleasant town to walk around and explore. The highlight of a Holland America Western Caribbean cruise is the visit to Half Moon Cay, the cruise line's private island in the Bahamas. There are two days at sea on this itinerary to break up the port calls. You can read our day-by-day cruise blog here.

Here's a little tip: The blue "clam shell" shaded loungers shown in the picture are available for rent, and they sell out quickly. Pre-book these online through the Holland America website before your cruise!

SUMMARY

This was our fifth Holland America cruise, and the good news is, not much has changed. The line remains squarely in the middle of the mainstream cruise line pack. What distinguishes Holland America from other cruise lines is a large fleet of ships that can take you to every corner of the world. Combine that worldwide reach with a reputation for friendly, warm service and you can quickly see why so many people come back year after year to sail with HAL. Holland America is a good cruise line with a great reputation.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/3/15 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/3/15

Uniworld SS Catherine Burgundy and Provence River Cruise

Ultra-Luxury River Cruising in France

Vineyard in Galician Region of Spain. High enough to provide shade

Scheduled Itinerary: Lyon, Macon, Lyon, Tournon and Tain l'Hermitage,Viviers, Arles, Avignon

Our first "sailing" aboard Uniworld Boutique River Cruises turned out to be a non-sailing. The seven-night Burgundy and Provence itinerary was hindered by high water levels on the Rhone River from heavy rains over several days. Although the rain had ended by the time we embarked SS Catherine, the high water remained. And, on a river, if the water level is too high, the ships cannot fit under the bridges and into the locks along the river. Nevertheless, we had the opportunity to experience Uniworld's services and most of what SS Catherine has to offer.

EMBARKATION

The 7-night Burgundy and Provence itinerary sails from Lyon, France, to Avignon, France, and does the reverse itinerary alternating weeks. Our sailing was southbound from Lyon to Avignon, so we embarked in Lyon. The trip started off with a less than wonderful experience on American Airlines that resulted in our luggage not arriving in Lyon when we did. The Uniworld staff did an excellent job of staying in touch with the lost baggage office in Lyon and our luggage was delivered to the ship the following afternoon. Crisis averted. A Uniworld representative met us at the Lyon airport as soon as we exited baggage claim. We were escorted to a waiting van for the 40-minute drive from the airport to the ship. When we arrived alongside SS Catherine (which was actually docked next to another river ship), we were greeted by Hotel Manager, Astrid, who escorted us on board SS Catherine. When we arrived at Reception, all we had to do was surrender our passports for verification. Check-in could not be simpler or more efficient. Since it was only 11:30am, we were told that the rooms would not be officially "ready" until 3pm, but that we could enjoy lunch in the restaurant and they would notify us when our room was ready.

After a quick and delicious lunch in the Cézanne Restaurant, we moved one deck up to the Van Gogh Lounge. We were pretty tired from the jet lag and an overnight flight from the US, so we were just about to pass out on one of the sofas when Petra, the ship's housekeeper, arrived with our stateroom keys and offered to escort us to our cabin. All in all, embarkation went very smoothly.

THE SHIP - SS CATHERINE

By the numbers, SS Catherine is 443 feet long and 37.5 feet wide, pretty typical for a new river cruise ship. Unlike ocean-going ships, river ships are constrained by the size of the many locks they must pass through and bridges under which they must sail. So, from the outside, river cruise ships look very similar. What distinguishes one from another is the interior decor and appointments, and of course, the service experience. SS Catherine is designed to cater to a maximum passenger capacity of 159 with a crew of 57. Compare that to the Viking River Cruises' Longships which, at the same size, can carry up to 190. The SS Catherine was inaugurated in 2014.

The Reception desk and main lobby are located on the Avignon Deck (Deck 3). This is where you typically will board the vessel, and depart for local excursions. You are greeted by a large, green and gold glass horse standing in front of the circular glass elevator that is drenched in a cascading waterfall. Curved staircases are on either side of the elevator. There's a lot of polished brass, green plants, mirrors and a huge Murano glass chandelier hanging overhead. First impression is of a 5-star hotel lobby, not a river cruise ship.

Forward of Reception (but in appearance, behind the Reception desk) you will find the Cézanne Restaurant. The restaurant has a very elegant "French" decor that stops just short of going over the top. The greens and blues really do complement each other. We will go into more detail about Cézanne under Food and Dining later in this review.

Aft of Reception you will find Category 2 and 3 staterooms. Moving up to Deck 4 (Camargue Deck) using the curved staircase, you are greeted by more mirrors overlaid in green trellis-patterned Murano glass. Uniworld must have spent a fortune on Murano glass as it is everywhere! Forward of the staircase is the Van Gogh Lounge, the ship's main meeting point, bar and entertainment venue. The French Provincial theme is carried even closer to the edge here, but again, it is so tastefully done that it avoids going "over the top" and never rises to the level of gaudy. A large bar at the back of the lounge is surrounded by leather upholstered bar stools. Around the perimeter of the lounge are small seating areas with a combination of upholstered chairs and elegant sofas that remind me of the one my mother would never let me sit on as a kid. The center of the lounge is filled with small tables, each with four chairs. There is a nice-sized dance floor about 2/3 of the way to the front of the lounge complete with a large white piano. The layout of the lounge has been very well thought out. At the front of the lounge, and completely out-of-sight is a staircase that leads down to the restaurant one deck below.

A door at the front of the lounge leads out to the Matisse Terrace which offers guests the opportunity to sit at large, white, cast iron tables and chairs and enjoy the fresh air as SS Catherine sails down (or up) the Rhone. Moving aft from the lounge, and the staircase, you will find mostly Category 1 staterooms in addition to the suites. Aft on Deck 4 is the location for the Bar du Leopard, or what is commonly referred to as "Leopard Bar". This is quite an interesting space. Decorated in black leather, leopard print upholstery and black glass-topped tables, the Leopard Bar has a very masculine appearance. It almost has the feel of a New York City cigar bar. But, there is no smoking in the Leopard Bar. Instead, this bar serves a variety of purposes. Of course, it is a "bar", where you can relax and enjoy a drink. It is also a location for 24-hour self-service coffee and tea. And, the Leopard Bar is where early risers can enjoy a selection of pastries and fruit from 5:30am to 6:30am each day. But wait, there's more! The Leopard Bar is also transformed into an elegant alternate dining venue on select nights. In addition, a Bistro Menu is available for light dining throughout the day.

Where the Leopard Bar takes a weird twist is the view of the indoor swimming pool through two large glass walls. And, although it never happened on our visits, the thought of someone walking into the bar in a swimsuit or bathrobe to take a dip while others are enjoying an intimate meal is a little troubling. For privacy, the door to the wet area triggers the electro-luminescent glass to turn opaque. Having an indoor pool on a river cruise ship is unique, but to have it visible from a bar is really "different". That said, the heated pool itself is beautiful with a green tint, a big Catherine "C" painted on the bottom and 3D aquatic-themed mosaic accent walls.

Aft of Leopard Bar there is an outdoor covered terrace with cast iron tables and chairs. This area is a great place to sit and enjoy a light lunch from the bistro menu, or sip your favorite cocktail while sailing the Rhone. The Leopard Bar is one of our favorite spots on SS Catherine and it quickly became my 'go to' spot for early morning coffee and blogging. My only complaint was that it seemed to be difficult for the temperature to remain constant. On some mornings it was extremely warm, while on other mornings it would be freezing cold. This was the only location on the ship where I noticed that issue. Perhaps the large automatic sliding doors to the outside terrace were playing havoc with the HVAC?

Moving up from Deck 4, you come to the Sun Deck. The expansive artificial turf-covered deck is void of any obstacles or interesting features. Notwithstanding the large shuffleboard checker game, it is basically open deck and lounge chairs, albeit very nice lounge chairs. The loungers have collapsible sun shades to protect your head from the sun. Running nearly the entire length of the Sun Deck, canvas awnings provide protection from the sun while the outer edges of the deck allow full exposure.

At the front of the Sun Deck you will find a few tables and chairs, just in case you want to sit outside on a beautiful day and enjoy a glass of wine. Or, why not bring your lunch "up top" and enjoy?

If you walk (or take the elevator) all the way down to Deck 2, you will find Category 4 and 5 cabins as well as a nicely-equipped fitness center, a full-featured laundromat available for guest use, a boutique and a 24-hour coffee/tea station. The fitness center has cardio machines, free weights and other torture devices that those in pursuit of physical fitness will surely appreciate.

The laundromat has several stacked washer/dryer combination machines and a television so you can be entertained while folding your laundry. Use of the machines is complimentary, as is laundry detergent.

SS Catherine is also equipped with Wi-Fi Internet throughout the entire ship. Internet access is complimentary and I had no problems getting a connection from our stateroom, Leopard Bar or Van Gogh Lounge. Internet speeds were acceptable and allowed me to maintain our daily blog, Twitter updates, Facebook, etc. during the trip. However, I never had the opportunity to test the Internet as the ship was sailing. It is common for river ships to lose connections when going through locks or under bridges, as satellite antennas often have to be lowered.

It should go unmentioned that SS Catherine's interior spaces resemble a 5-star hotel more than a cruise ship. The materials used on walls, furnishings and trim are incredibly detailed and give the ship a very rich feel. This is one of the most elegantly appointed ships on which we have ever sailed. Even the public restrooms reflect an incredible about of detail that you don't often find on a ship.

ACCOMMODATIONS (CATEGORY 1)

Our Category 1 stateroom was 194 sq. ft. including an "open-air balcony". The most dominating feature of the room is the king-sized Savoir® bed with the padded green scalloped headboards. And just for the record, it happens to be the most comfortable bed on which I have ever slept. The bed is covered in excellent linens. A small bedside table with three drawers is positioned on either side of the bed. One wall of the stateroom is a series of mirrored doors, behind which you will find closet space. The center closet has three large drawers for clothes and some shelves for storage. This is where you will find the safe, QueitVox receivers and charging station, complimentary slippers and bathrobes. We found the closet space to be adequate for a 7-night sailing.

Across from the bed is a narrow desk with a drawer. It is more like a shelf than a desk as it is too narrow to be used as a desk. On top of the "desk" you will find complimentary bottled water, a fruit plate, a bowl with candy, an ice bucket, two metal water bottles (yours to keep) and an iPhone/iPad/iPod charging station with speakers. Rather than providing plastic bottles of water, Uniworld refills a large glass bottle with fresh water daily, or upon request. There are 4 electrical outlets along the mirrored back wall of the desk for a variety of European-style plugs as well as a US-style 110 outlet. Personally, I would prefer 4 Euro-style 2-prong 220-volt receptacles and perhaps an adapter kit in the desk drawer. However, if you travel with an adapter kit, you will have four outlets at your disposal. There are also US-Style 110 outlets "hidden" on the floor behind the nightstands.

The balcony is not your traditional "walk outside" type of setup. Instead, a narrow section of the room has been sectioned off with a sliding glass wall. There are two chairs and a table inside this "balcony" area. A floor-to-ceiling window is divided into two sections, and the top window can be electronically lowered to deliver on the "open-air" promise of the balcony. It is actually pretty ingenious and may be superior in design to a traditional balcony, which can only be used in good weather. On the SS Catherine balcony, you can sit there in the rain and enjoy the view, just close the window! An equally ingenious mosquito screen can be electronically raised and lowered to keep the flying critters out of your room.

A flat-screen television is mounted to the mirrored wall across from the bed and above the desk. Television programming includes several news channels (BBC World News, CNNi, Sky News, CNBC, Bloomberg), but no US-based news channels (such as Fox News, CNN etc), three HBO channels, Animal Planet, TLC, NatGeo, Discovery and a couple of other European channels. The system also is equipped to allow you to check your shipboard account, but I was unable to make this work. There is also a selection of On-Demand movies free of charge.

The bathroom was very spacious and well designed. The square, glass shower stall is large and comfortable. Everything worked perfectly; however, the shower would tend to hunt for the right water temperature. Thick, luscious towels are provided, and were hanging on a heated towel rack. The floor can be heated as well with the simple flip of a wall switch. The best feature of the bathroom was the tremendous amount of storage in the form of two large drawers under the sink. This is probably the best design we have seen on any ship. There is a lighted makeup mirror attached over the vanity and a hair dryer is provided. Like the rest of the stateroom, the bathroom is wrapped in sparkling clean mirrors, which also helps to make the space look larger. L'Occitane soap, body lotion, shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel were provided.

Overall, the Category 1 stateroom was comfortable, albeit a bit cramped. The balcony definitely cuts into the available space, but because it is actually part of the room, it is a better design than a traditional 'outside' balcony. The balcony window and bug screen are super cool and great for getting photos from your stateroom, or enjoying the sights as you sail down the river. And that bed, oh that heavenly bed! We would rate this stateroom a 4 out of 5, and the bed is a 6 out of 5!

The SS Catherine has the following staterooms available:

Royal Suite: 1 (410 sq ft)
Suites: 5 (305 sq ft)
Categories 1 – 3 Staterooms: 61 (194 sq ft)
Categories 4 – 5 Staterooms: 13 (162 sq ft)

FOOD AND DINING

We always like to offer a disclaimer when it comes to judging food. Everyone has different tastes, likes and dislikes, so take our view of food and dining with a 'grain of salt' (no pun intended). That said, we found the food on SS Catherine to be as good as any we have had on any ship, and superior to most others. Perhaps there really is something special about having a French Executive Chef!

Breakfast is offered buffet-style each day starting at 6:30am in the Cézanne Restaurant. Fresh fruit, fresh-baked breads and pastries, scrambled eggs, bacon (2 types), sausage, beans, etc., are all available from the self-serve buffet. An omelet station for eggs made-to-order is nearby. A menu with several specialty items is also available for ordering from your waiter. A variety of juices and champagne (for Mimosas) is also present at the juice bar near the entrance to the restaurant.

Lunch is also served here buffet-style. A different hot soup was offered each day on the buffet, and all were excellent. Occasionally, salt was needed, but otherwise, seasoning was perfect. There was a carving station each day and vegetarian options were always available. The salad varieties changed every day, and again, all we tried were very good. One big plus for the buffet dining on SS Catherine was that everything that was supposed to be hot was hot. The chafing dishes used for the hot entrees were often so hot you could not pick up the serving spoon! If you prefer a lighter lunch, one is served in the Leopard Bar.

Dinner is served each evening in Cézanne, typically around 7pm. Seating is open, so you can sit wherever or with whomever you wish. And, you do not have to show up right at 7pm. If you prefer to dine a bit later, they will accommodate you. Dinner is full menu service with menus that change every day. There are a few items that are always available (pasta, New York Strip, chicken breast, Caesar salad, etc.). Once again, most everything we tried was in the good to excellent range. The "always available" New York Strip steak was my choice on two evenings and both were cooked perfectly and were delicious. The steaks even had a little ring of fat around the outside which added a lot of flavor. I have not seen that in 30 years! Please chef, don't trim that off! Whether at breakfast, lunch or dinner, there was one consistent hit and that was the bread. The bread served on SS Catherine is as good as we have ever had anywhere. The little olive baguette rolls were to die for. They forced me to cheat on my low-carb diet.

On some evenings, a special intimate dinner is available at the Leopard Bar. Reservations are required, but there is no charge. The degustation menu is a multi-course extravagant meal with an impressive presentation. I highly recommend this dining experience to anyone sailing on SS Catherine as it was probably the best alternate dining we have experienced on any river cruise ship to date.

Dining room service during breakfast and lunch was excellent because, of course, it is buffet-style. At dinner, service seemed to slip a little. It almost seemed like they were a little understaffed. Wait times between courses could be quite long and drink refills were also difficult to obtain.

*Sommelier, Laurentia, explains the evening's wines to Rickee*

Uniworld includes wine with dinner and a different red and white were offered each evening. You don't often see a Sommelier onboard a river cruise. In fact, I don't think we have ever seen one. But, Sommelier, Laurentia, was always available to answer questions about the wines offered, and gave a great description of each wine offered. She was probably the best Sommelier we have had on a cruise ship. All of the wine choices were very good. We were disappointed to learn that no Rieslings or "sweet" wines are kept on board, as we enjoy a sweeter white wine with lunch.

We were surprised to learn that several other guests on our cruise who had joined SS Catherine after disembarking Uniworld's River Baroness the previous week, said the food on Baroness was even better than on SS Catherine! That is hard to imagine.

ACTIVITIES AND EXCURSIONS

Giving a fair review of activities and excursions is difficult given the circumstances of our particular cruise. The ship did not sail to a few of the ports due to the river conditions and we never actually sailed on the ship. As a result, we never got the opportunity to enjoy the Sun Deck, or really, even our own balcony. Also, we are not sure if evening "walk-on" local entertainment was disrupted due to the changes in schedule. We only had one guest performer during the entire week, but we are not sure if that is normal or because of the restricted itinerary. We were informed that scheduled wine tastings were cancelled due to the alternate transportation arrangements that had to be made for excursions.

The primary activity on any river cruise is exploring the cities, towns and sights along the way. The excursions and tours we participated in were all handled professionally, with excellent local guides. The use of the QuietVox sound systems makes the tours much more enjoyable than 'back-in-the-day' when guides had to yell over each other to describe various sights. All of our guides were informative, pleasant, spoke excellent English, and were more than willing to answer questions.

One thing that was missing was the availability of bottled water on board the tour buses. In their defense, Uniworld does provide guests with aluminum water bottles that you can fill and take with you on tours, but you can easily drink that entire bottle in half a day, so then what? I know everyone is trying to "go green", but having small plastic water bottles available on tours is really a plus. On one tour, the guide even announced that the motor coach driver had bottled water available...for 1.50 Euro per bottle! That is not something you expect to see on a 5-star, all-inclusive cruise.

Evening entertainment was provided by Ulf, the ship's pianist with vocals by Rowena. After dinner dancing was available in the Van Gogh Lounge. One evening, guests were entertained by Paolo Nassi, a guest entertainer.

There are bicycles available for guest use when the ship is docked (obviously). There is no additional charge for using the bicycles.

THE EXPERIENCE/CLIENTELE

We were surprised by how many 30- and 40-somethings we saw on this sailing. We have noticed this trend over the past few river cruises. This segment is starting to appeal to a younger and broader demographic. Average age of the guests was probably 50s to 60s. Like most river cruises, dress tends to be casual as long as you don't wear shorts or sandals in the dining room after 6pm. On Captain's Welcome Reception/Dinner and Farewell Reception/Dinner gentlemen can get by with a sport coat, but several wore suits. You can leave your tuxedo at home.

Your cruise fare with Uniworld includes all gratuities, excursions in every port*, all meals on board, wine with lunch and dinner, cocktails and soft drinks.

*Uniworld does offer several "optional" excursions at an additional cost.

STAFF AND CREW

Every member of the staff and crew we came into contact with on SS Catherine was friendly, polite and very helpful. Our stateroom attendant, Alina, did an excellent job of keeping our stateroom spotlessly clean and made up, no easy task considering how many mirrors there are in the room!

Cruise Manager, Emmanuelle Rivron, deserves special recognition for doing an amazing job of putting together some last-minute events and group meals. She was taking a lot of heat from a few guests who were disappointed that we were not able to actually sail resulting in some missed ports-of-call. She handled the situation with grace and competence. The same is true for Hotel Manager, Astrid Veldwijk. The staff was thrown into a really tough situation due to the weather and river conditions. They did everything they could to make sure the guests had a memorable experience. In fact, they went above and beyond what I would expect.

*Emmanuelle, SS Catherine Cruise Manager*

In another departure from the norm, SS Catherine has two butlers for suite guests. We have not seen butlers on any river cruise up until now. When not providing service to the suite guests, the butlers could be seen helping out with bar duties and dinner service in the Leopard Bar.

SUMMARY

Uniworld is unquestionably at the top-end of the river cruise segment. This is a 5-star brand with excellent, all-inclusive value. SS Catherine is a beautiful new ship with incredible attention to detail evident on all fronts. The service levels are as high as we have experienced on any river cruise, and higher than most.

LIKES AND DISLIKES

There is a lot to like about SS Catherine and we have to descend into nit-picking to find anything we didn't like.

What We Like:

Food was excellent
Very friendly staff and crew
All-inclusive soft drinks, cocktails and gratuities
Best bed you will find...anywhere
Great "open-air" balcony concept
Leopard Bar
Good excursions
Excellent lunches provided on tours in Viviers and Avignon*
Emmanuelle, our Cruise Manager worked miracles
Attention to detail

What We Did Not Like (minor) :

No disposable bottled water available on tours
Wait times between courses at dinner could be long
No Riesling or "sweet" wines available

* Not sure if these are typical, or part of special, last-minute tour arrangements

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Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 4/9/15 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 4/9/15

Crystal Serenity - Mediterannean Cruise

We spend 11 nights aboard Crystal Serenity from Lisbon to Rome

Itinerary: Lisbon, Portimao•, Gibraltar, At Sea, Barcelona, Palamos, Marseille, St. Tropez•, Monte Carlo, Livorno, Civitavecchia (Rome)

A lot has happened at Crystal Cruises since our last sailing in 2013. The company was acquired by Genting Hong Kong from NYK in March 2015. And, just prior to our sailing, Crystal announced plans for a new luxury yacht (Crystal Esprit), a luxury airliner, a new luxury river cruise brand and three new luxury cruise liners. That is pretty aggressive expansion for a company that has been clinging to only two luxury cruise ships for the past several years. Apparently, Genting is not satisfied with simply being one of the best luxury travel brands, they also want to be the most diversified. Among Crystal's loyal cadre of supporters, one question stands above all others: will Crystal be able to retain the level of service and quality amid this expansion and ownership change

*Crystal is celebrating its 25th anniversary*

THE ASSIGNMENT

We thought it would be worthwhile to revisit Crystal Serenity to see if we could detect any changes in service levels (better or worse) under new ownership. So, throughout this review we will try to draw comparisons to what we experienced in 2013. Granted, it may be too soon to notice any major changes, especially since the fleet expansion has not materialized yet. Nevertheless, we did note some differences from our 2013 sailing that were noteworthy. As to whether or not these differences were the result of an ownership change, or just natural maturation of a cruise line, is impossible for us to determine.

PASSENGER MIX

Unlike our previous sailing on Crystal (a Transatlantic in 2013), with a decidedly older clientele, on this sailing we saw a much broader range of age groups. There were several families on board, and even some with babies in strollers! That is not something we expected to see on a luxury cruise. With the exception of a few families and kids running around, the "average" age is still in the 50s-60s range with some even older passengers.

THE SHIP

We saw no changes to the public spaces on Crystal Serenity since 2013 (at least from our notes, photos and memory). There were some carpeted areas that look to be near the end of their life cycle, but the ship is spotlessly maintained. We saw no exterior signs of rust. The ship sparkles.

Crystal Serenity (and her sister, Symphony) are perfectly proportioned to offer all of the amenities of a large ship while still delivering a more intimate feeling. It is not quite "small-ship" intimate, but it is not overwhelmingly large either. You can get from any stateroom to the theater or restaurants in under five minutes. There are three elevator/stairway lobbies (forward, midship, aft) that allow guests to traverse from Deck 5 to Deck 12 (aft elevators only go down to Deck 6). All elevators worked well and speed was acceptable.

The Neptune Pool is as nice as you will find on any ship, and nicer than most. A nice feature is a lot of shaded seating areas for those of us trying to avoid future visits to the dermatologist.

*Plenty of large, comfortable loungers in the shade*

The pool itself is large enough for guests to enjoy a healthy swim and poolside sun loungers are outfitted each morning with towels for guest use. Two hot tubs are a popular spot for a comforting soak. On Deck 13, there is a very nice AstroTurf walking track.

For traditionalists who insist on a wrap-around Promenade, Crystal Serenity has one of the nicest and most spacious you will find anywhere. The Promenade Deck (7) is the perfect spot for a brisk morning walk, or an early evening sunset stroll. The wide teak deck is unencumbered by lounge chairs.

As for ride quality and comfort, Crystal Serenity sails through the water like a hot knife through butter. The dual Azipod propulsion units do an admirable job of keeping vibration to a minimum. Even with the ship at speed, you can enjoy lunch in the Lido Cafe (aft) without glasses rattling on the table. Crystal Serenity (and her sister Symphony) is one of the smoothest and quietest ships you will find. HVAC systems throughout the ship worked perfectly keeping guests cool and comfortable.

There were two ports of call on this itinerary requiring the use of the ship's tenders to go ashore (Portimao and St. Tropez). Guests board the tender boats on Deck 4 midship and the entire operation is extremely efficient. The Captain deployed three or four tenders during peak periods to minimize the wait for a tender. Ashore, Crystal set up a nice "comfort station" tent with drinks and shade to ease the wait for a tender to arrive. A nice touch.

EMBARKATION

We arranged a private car transfer from Hotel Altis Avenida and arrived at the Lisbon Port around 2:00pm (3:00pm was the indicated embarkation time). Embarkation was much smoother and quicker than what we experienced in Barcelona in 2013. There were no lines (we suspect many had boarded earlier.) We literally zipped through security and were on board the ship within five minutes after arriving. Check-in takes place at a long table set up in the "Crystal Plaza" on Deck 5. It took less than three minutes to surrender our passports, have our security photos taken and be issued our room keys. We were informed that, even though embarkation was officially 3pm, our stateroom was ready for us (part of Crystal's VIP embarkation for Penthouse guests, I presume.) We were also informed that lunch was still being served on Deck 12 in the Lido and at Trident Grill. When we reached the end of the check-in desk, a waiter was holding a tray with glasses of champagne.

*Check-in on Deck 5 is fast and efficient*

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Penthouse with Veranda on Deck 11 aft (#11052) was virtually identical to the one we occupied in 2013 (on Deck 10 forward). These staterooms reflect a level of attention to detail you rarely find on a cruise ship. This stateroom was our Editors' Choice for BEST Accommodations in 2013, and we see no reason to change that designation. Every one of the 403 sq. ft. (including veranda) has been utilized to maximize guest comfort. It starts with the clever electronic Do Not Disturb/Clean Room switch by the front door. No need to fumble with paper signs hanging from the door knob, which by the way, always end up falling on the hallway floor. A classy doorbell alerts you that a visitor has arrived. And most likely, that person ringing the doorbell will be your personal butler. Well, maybe not "personal" since your butler will be taking care of several other guests, too. Nevertheless, your butler is on call 24 hours a day, and will provide you with any or all of the following services:

Unpacking and packing upon request
Confirming dining and spa reservation
Crystal Adventures shore excursion reservations
In-suite afternoon tea service
In-suite pre-dinner cocktail and gourmet canapé service
In-suite dining, including menus from Silk Road and Prego, served by course
Garment pressing and shoeshine upon request

Our butler, Daniel, was always available whenever we needed anything. He greeted us soon after we arrived in our stateroom and asked us if we had any special requests. Our stateroom attendant, Puii, also greeted us soon after arrival and immediately fulfilled Rickee's standing request for more clothes hangers. Each afternoon around 4:30pm, Daniel would show up with canapés. Rickee mentioned early on that she liked shrimp cocktail and that I liked hummus. So every day thereafter, a plate of cocktail shrimp and another with hummus was waiting for us on our coffee table! The butler service is just one of the great perks you enjoy when you occupy a Penthouse w/Veranda stateroom.

The large walk-in closet can hold enough clothes for a world cruise. There are shelves and drawers on both sides of the closet and three rods for hanging clothes. Frette bathrobes, kimonos and slippers are waiting in the closet upon embarkation for guest use during the cruise. We never use the bathrobes, so we had them removed to give us extra hanging space in the closet.

*Large sofa and coffee table opposite the bed*

A full-sized sofa faces the queen-sized bed and a nice-sized oval glass-topped coffee table sits between the bed and the sofa. A large and comfortable chair is placed to one side of the coffee table. The coffee table serves a dual purpose as it can be raised to dining height for in-suite dining. One big improvement over our 2013 sailing was the mattress. Having a saggy mattress was one of our biggest complaints on our previous cruise. This mattress appeared to be new (relatively) and very comfortable. The pillows were still too soft for our liking, but a pillow menu offers a variety of firmness and materials and we soon had pillows delivered to our stateroom that were perfect.

A marble desk at one end of the entertainment center is large enough for my laptop. Walk around the corner from the desk and you will find Rickee's favorite feature of this stateroom: an equally large marble vanity with lighted magnifying makeup mirror. The desk and the vanity are separated by a mirrored wall.

The bathroom, too, is very well laid out with a large shower stall, Jacuzzi bathtub, dual sinks and tons of storage. A large shelf runs above the entire length of the vanity. There are multiple shelves above the toilet and large drawers under and on each side of the vanity. The dual sinks make it possible for two people to occupy the bathroom at the same time. There is a speaker in the bathroom connected to the TV and you can hear television programming while in the bathroom. There is also a telephone on one wall. The Aveda brand shampoo, conditioner, soap, body lotion and bath salts were still present, even though we had read that they would be replaced with ETRO amenities on this sailing. We asked Puii if we could try the ETRO products and she was able to procure some for us to try (apparently pre-production test samples). I would say that the ETRO amenities are comparable, if not a slight upgrade, from the Aveda products.

And, on the subject of storage, the stateroom has drawers and shelves everywhere you look. There is a multi-drawer dresser beneath the television and a cabinet with shelves above the TV. To the left of the TV, there are more cabinets with shelves. If that's not enough, there are two large drawers in each of the nightstands, and even an end table with two large drawers! This is all in addition to the drawers and shelves in the walk-in closet. We couldn't begin to fill up all the drawers and cabinets.

For in-suite entertainment, the large High-Definition flat-screen television offers a variety of closed-circuit channels with video feeds from the bridge, a channel replaying the days' lectures, a couple of movie channels, and popular news channels (FOX News, SKY News, CNN, etc.). The glitches we experienced on our transatlantic sailing have apparently been addressed and the television worked flawlessly throughout the cruise. The television is connected to a Blu-ray DVD/CD player capable of playing your own DVDs or any from the large selection available from the ship's library. The operation of the DVD player and television was seamless with a single remote control.

*Our butler, Daniel (yes, the one on the left!)*

Crystal Serenity offers guests WiFi throughout the ship. Unfortunately, the Internet access was not as reliable as I remembered on our last cruise. Even though I could connect most times from our stateroom (there was a WiFi transmitter very near our room in the hallway), there were several times where the connection was either dropped or painfully slow. Crystal also offers a selection of movies "on demand" which can be watched on an iPad or laptop. Interestingly, these movies cannot be viewed on the stateroom television. At this time, there is also no way to check your onboard account through the ship's intranet.

A clever night-light switch produced a slight glow underneath the vanity/desk to provide just enough light to see your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

A mini-fridge is located underneath the desk and is stocked with soft drinks, beer, white wine, or whatever you request. Of course, all are complimentary and replenished daily. Our fridge did not get very cold, even at the coldest setting. A fresh fruit basket on the desk was replenished daily.

*Large balcony with excellent furnishings*

Serenity balcony furnishings are among the nicest we have seen on any ship. Large wicker chairs with foot stools were outfitted with padded cushions.

In spite of carpeting that is beginning to look worn and near the end of its life, the Penthouse w/Veranda stateroom on Crystal Serenity gets a 5-out-of-5 rating from us. It is still one of the most comfortable staterooms/suites of any ship on which we have sailed to date.

FOOD AND DINING

Food is an important part of any vacation, and even more so on a cruise. We found the dining experience on Crystal Serenity in 2013 to be very good and we would have to say that the same is true in 2015.

The Crystal Dining Room is the "traditional" restaurant on board Serenity. Guests can enjoy the traditional "early" or "late" seating options, or flexible "by reservation" dining is available. The Crystal Dining Room offers a lot of two-top tables for intimate dining. However, many of the two-top tables are placed in close proximity to each other, so it is almost like dining with the couple next to you. We also noticed this table arrangement in the Lido Cafe and Tastes. There are a few two-top tables that are located away from other tables for a more intimate experience. We prefer the table located in the far back corner of the dining room (#42). It is sort of hidden back in a little cove and it is much quieter and away from the traffic of the dining room. The Crystal Dining Room can get a bit noisy during peak dining periods.

The food quality in the Crystal Dining Room was better and more consistent on this sailing that what we noted in 2013. With so many port calls on this sailing, the dining room was closed for lunch most days, so our experience was limited to dinner time. All of the meals we had here were superb --- even better than we remembered from our previous Crystal sailings. Service was excellent.

The Crystal Dining Room is usually open for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day. On our voyage, it was closed for lunch on most days in port.

The Lido Cafe

The Lido Cafe is Serenity's buffet dining venue located on Deck 12 aft and serves breakfast and lunch each day. The Lido Cafe offers mostly two-top tables and there is ample outdoor seating aft for al fresco dining. The layout is arranged in such a way that long waiting lines for the buffet are rare.

Food quality in the Lido Cafe was very good considering it is a buffet. We were again disappointed that there were no "theme" buffets like we had experienced on Crystal Symphony in 2011.

*The excellent cocktail shrimp was available on most days*

Something new that I have never seen before on a breakfast buffet was fried rice! Perhaps it was offered because of an influx of Asian guests? Regardless of why, I love it! There is an excellent selection of fresh fruit, amazing freshly-baked pastries and breads, and cereals. Freshly-squeezed orange juice and coffee are delivered to the table by Lido wait staff. I only tried the coffee one time and quickly was reminded of why I travel with my own French press and fresh ground coffee. We found the service in the Lido Cafe to be excellent. For some reason, our preferred Riesling wine that was available in the dining room was not available in the Lido Cafe at lunch, or any dining venue on Deck 12.

As on previous Crystal sailings, I would use the Lido Cafe each morning as my coffee and blogging station. However, on this sailing, families with babies would arrive early and the screams of the kids forced me to seek refuge in Tastes (forward of Lido Cafe). On my last Crystal sailing, one of the Lido wait staff (Osvaldo) would offer to clean my French press for me each morning. I received no such offer on this sailing.

The Bistro

The Bistro is a casual dining venue on Deck 5. Each morning, the Bistro offers a continental breakfast. In the afternoon, the Bistro offers charcuterie, international cheeses and freshly-baked desserts. From 6-8pm you will find cured meats, prosciutto, international cheeses, all served with premium wines and champagne. The snacking continues from 8-11pm with artisanal cheeses accompanied with chutneys, honey, plus an assortment of fresh fruit and desserts. Late night munchies, served from 11pm to 12am, include mini-sandwiches, pizzas, tandoori chicken and beef sliders. There is also a bar in the Bistro to provide your favorite beverages.

Trident Bar & Grill

The Trident Grill remains as one of our "go to" spots for a casual lunch. The Trident Grill opens earlier than other venues (11:30am) and offers a nice selection of burgers, wraps, fries, onion rings and the like. The Grilled Minute Sirloin Steak is one of my favorites.

A well-stocked relish bar offers mustard, mayo, ketchup, relish, cole slaw and even chips and salsa. Fresh fruit is also available.

Prego

We only visited Prego once during our 10-night sailing and everything was as we remembered from our 2013 Serenity cruise. My Caesar salad was delicious as was Rickee's Carpaccio of Black Angus Beef. No meal at Prego is complete without their signature mushroom soup served in a crusty bread bowl. The rich, creamy soup is infused with a variety of mushrooms. This is one of the best cream of mushroom soups you will find anywhere. My Roasted Rack of Baby Lamb was perfectly cooked. And, even though the portion was filling, there were only two chops served this year instead of the three chops I was served in 2013.

Reservations are required to dine in Prego. We recommend making those reservations before your cruise embarks by using Crystal's website. Crystal has implemented a new policy regarding dining in Prego (and Silk Road). Guests are invited to dine once per cruise on a complimentary basis (in each restaurant). Guests making subsequent visits to Prego will be charged a $30 cover charge. Of course, there are some exceptions to this policy depending on the length of the cruise, the number of cruises you've had with Crystal, your stateroom category, etc.

*Rack of Baby Lamb was cooked perfectly and was delicious*

Silk Road

Adjacent to Prego on Deck 7 aft is Crystal's Nobu-inspired Asian restaurant, Silk Road. As with Prego, reservations are needed to dine in Silk Road. However, Silk Road does offer one little secret. There is a sushi bar at Silk Road that seats ten guests. No reservations are required to dine at the sushi bar and the full Silk Road menu is available. The one "free" visit per cruise policy kept us from just popping into the sushi bar for a late night snack, and yes, the one free visit policy applies to the sushi bar as well as the Silk Road restaurant.

*All sushi, like my Spicy Tuna Roll, is made fresh to order*

The main restaurant at Silk Road is classy and the menu is upscale Asian cuisine inspired by Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The menu at Silk Road includes Nobu classics such as Wagyu Beef with a choice of dipping sauces (my personal favorite). The fork-tender slices of Wagyu are so delicious that the accompanying sauces are not even needed. Rickee and I both agree that the Black Cod with Miso Glaze is perhaps the best seafood dish on the planet, and it was her choice yet again. If you are not sure what to try, order the Nobu Box which gives you a chance to try the Wagyu beef, Black Cod and Shrimp. All dishes are accompanied by a bowl of delicious Jasmine rice, just sticky enough to eat with chopsticks.

As with Prego, guests are invited to dine in Silk Road once per cruise on a complimentary basis. If you wish to return to Silk Road, there will be a $30 fee per person assessed.

CruiseReport Tip: Do you love the mushroom soup at Prego or the Spicy Tuna Roll in Silk Road? As a Penthouse guest, you can enjoy the menus of these great restaurants in your stateroom and avoid the $30 cover charge.

Tastes

Tastes is Crystal Serenity's newest dining experience. An open-kitchen venue occupies the starboard side of Deck 12 midship, just forward of the Lido Cafe. Its Global Cuisine comfort food menu was created in partnership with Sapphire Restaurant in Laguna Beach, California, where acclaimed chef, Azmin Ghahreman, offers cuisine with accents from around the globe. Tastes is open for late breakfast and for lunch. I understand the timing of the late-riser breakfast service from 10:00am to 11:00am, but the 1:00pm lunch service leaves me scratching my head. Perhaps Crystal feels that the later start time will thin out the crowd at Tastes?

On this sailing, we did try the pot stickers from Tastes for lunch one day. They were good. Our evening meal at Tastes however, left us less impressed. The menu is a bit confusing and implies that the dishes are going to be small "tastes" or tapas, but in reality, the portions are fairly significant. Rickee and I ordered four items from the menu, and it was way too much food for two people. The Alsatian tart (basically, a flatbread pizza) was the best dish we had. It was served hot and was delicious. The "starter" Caesar salad kabob, sort of a deconstructed Caesar salad, was also good. The other two items we ordered missed the mark. The lamb kibbeh was served room temperature and had no flavor. The Chimichurri steak was tender and the Chimichurri sauce was good, but it, too, was served cold and there was very little of the Chimichurri sauce to enjoy. Sadly, Tastes was our least favorite dining venue on Crystal Serenity. And, this is the second time we have left Tastes with this impression.

What Tastes does have going for it is atmosphere. It is a very romantic, dimly-lit setting that is comforting and casual. And honestly, if we had only ordered the Caesar kabob and Alsatian tart, we would have enjoyed it quite a bit. Service was also very slow with long wait times between "courses," which are not really courses at all. Dishes arrive at the table in no certain order, they just come out "whenever." Tastes is a great concept, but we found the execution to be lacking.

Room Service

Crystal offers a nice 24-hour room service menu. Of course, the most popular meal for room service is breakfast. Breakfast order cards can be placed on your stateroom door before retiring and breakfast will be delivered to your stateroom the next morning at the desired time. And, there are times when you may not want to get dressed for dinner. Penthouse guests can order dinner from the evening menu at Crystal Dining Room, Prego or Silk Road in addition to the standard room service menu.

One evening we decided to stay in our beautiful stateroom and watch a DVD movie from the ship's library. We called Daniel, our butler, and mentioned we were interested in sushi. Daniel brought us Silk Road menus so we could decide what we wanted. We ordered a selection of sushi from the Silk Road menu and, within 30 minutes, Daniel was ringing our doorbell with our order. Everything arrived perfectly prepared and delicious. In our opinion, the ability to order from the main restaurant and the specialty restaurants puts Crystal's room service at the top of the industry (at least the Penthouse-level room service.) The only thing that would make room service better would be if the restaurant menus were available through the television, or at least through the intranet via an iPad or laptop.

Afternoon Tea

The Palm Court on Deck 12 forward becomes the perfect setting for an Afternoon Tea each day from 3:30pm to 4:30pm. Tables are covered in linen and wait staff are dressed in tuxedos with white gloves for the service. A choice of teas are offered along with finger sandwiches, scones, cookies and other treats.

Scoops Ice Cream Bar

Scoops ice cream bar is located in the Trident Bar and Grill on Deck 12, where Crystal guests are treated to a variety of popular flavors, and the ice cream is complimentary! Even though the flavors offered appear to be the same as in 2013, the Ben & Jerry's name is nowhere to be found. Nevertheless, the ice cream was as good as we remembered. The Triple Caramel Crunch is hands down our favorite flavor. We felt that it was necessary to try the ice cream each day, just for journalistic integrity, of course. The ice cream can be served in a cone or a cup and a large variety of toppings are available to complete the treat. You can also get a cookie or two to complement your ice cream choice.

*Rickee gets her daily dose of Triple Caramel Crunch at Scoops*

Bar Service

We found the bar service throughout the ship to be excellent. Our favorite spot for pre-dinner drinks was Avenue Saloon (Deck 6 aft). We would usually show up around 5:30pm and the place would be empty. The bar staff made Rickee's Mojito to perfection, which is not an easy task. I would typically order Dewar's on the rocks and would always receive a generous pour. In the early evenings, bar staff will circulate the lounges offering a selection of canapes.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gary Hunter has been a cruise director for 40 years, so he knows how to put together an entertainment program. Each night the Galaxy Theater would come alive with a different show. The Crystal Ensemble of Singers and Dancers delivered energetic production shows while guest entertainers, ranging from singers to musicians to a mind reader, took the stage several evenings.

The Inspiration Strings also performed daily in the Crystal Cove. Nightly shows in the Galaxy Theater were usually held twice: the first show for those eating a late dinner and a second show for those who dined earlier.

One of the local entertainment performances that really caught our attention was Los Mulero, a group of dancers and musicians from Barcelona. The Flamenco dance performances were exceptional.

All of the shows we attended were very entertaining and as good as you will find on any cruise ship, especially a ship with only 1,000 guests. The best show of the cruise, hands down, was Gary Hunter's ventriloquist performance. Gary has been entertaining professionally for decades and he is quite an accomplished ventriloquist.

BARS & LOUNGES

On Crystal Serenity, you will never have to search too far for a spot to enjoy your favorite beverage.

Crystal Cove (Deck 5) - Crystal Cove is a popular meeting place for guests having dinner in Crystal Dining Room (Deck 5). Seating is comfortable and conducive to mingling with other guests. There is also seating at the bar.

The Bistro (Deck 6 midship) - There is a full-service bar located in the Bistro on Deck 6. However, The Bistro has more of a cafe feel than that of a lounge making it less appealing for enjoying a cocktail. This is a space that we would like to see re-invented into a "wine bar" concept with a warmer atmosphere while still keeping the buffet. It would be the perfect place for early-evening snacks and a glass of wine, or even a light meal of canapes.

Avenue Saloon (Deck 6 aft) - Our new favorite watering hole on Crystal Serenity is Avenue Saloon. I am not sure how we missed it on our last sailing. This place really comes alive in the evenings with piano music, but is a quiet, intimate space before dinner. We love it!

Palm Court (Deck 12 forward) - Palm Court is the largest lounge on Crystal Serenity and is also the primary place to enjoy after-dinner dancing. Located on Deck 12 forward, Palm Court has the best view in the house with large windows wrapping 180-degrees around the space. If you are looking for a lounge with a view, this is it!

Trident Bar (Deck 12 midship) - The Trident Bar is the perfect spot for enjoying a drink poolside, or under the sunroof during the day. In the evenings, access to the bar is cumbersome as the space turns into the Tastes restaurant.

Starlight Club (Deck 6 aft) - This lounge is a venue for smaller shows, bingo and other events. However, it can easily be used to enjoy a cocktail.

Galaxy Lounge (Deck 6 forward) - The main theater for Crystal Serenity, Galaxy Lounge offers full bar service before the performances begin.

Pulse Night Club (Deck 6 aft) - This late-night disco was also the location for the Magic Castle At Sea performances.

ACTIVITIES AND ENRICHMENT

With so many port days on this sailing (only one day 'at sea'), the main form of activity was exploring the ports-of-call. However, there was still plenty to do each day on board Crystal Serenity. Because of the itinerary, the Computer University @ Sea (CU@Sea) classes were limited to only two days. We signed up for the USC Digital Filmmaking Course, "iMovie on the iPad," which was a series of classes conducted by Tony Mark, an Emmy Award winning director. This course focused on using an iPad to film and edit movies. The classes were great fun and Tony did an excellent job instructing us.

Crystal now provides each Crystal Society Member (repeat Crystal guest) 60 minutes of free WiFi/Internet per day. That is a huge value for those of us who like to stay 'connected' while we are away from home. Crystal's Computer University@Sea offers guests several Internet plans (below) with per minute costs that decrease with the more minutes you purchase. The prices are competitive with what other cruise lines charge for comparable services. Other than the 'Pay As You Go' plan at 74 cents per minute, all other plans are slightly more expensive than they were in 2013, perhaps to compensate for the "free" Internet offered to Crystal Society members?

Here is an update from the Crystal Cruises website:

Effective August 30, 2015 on Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity all Crystal guests will receive free Wi-Fi/internet for the duration of their cruise! Offering at least 60 minutes per person, per day of internet and Wi-Fi connectivity (depending on stateroom/suite category*), this enhanced benefit will ensure you are able to connect and share your cherished Crystal experiences to friends and family back home. Certain restrictions apply. Click the link below for more information

Hollywood Theater Movies - The Hollywood Theater on Deck 6 is one of our favorite venues. Each day, a different movie is shown here. The 210-person theater offers very comfortable seating, a large screen, great sound, and popcorn! What more could you want?

Lecture Series - Even though there was only one day at sea on this sailing, Crystal still offered a selection of interesting and enlightening lectures. All lectures are taped and broadcast over the ship's closed-circuit television system, so you never have to miss a lecture! On our voyage, we were treated to presentations by destination lecturer, Captain Richard Hayman, who provided lots of information about the history of the ports we were visiting. World Affairs lecturer, Professor Louis Beres, spoke about past military conflicts and foreign policy as it applies to our world situation today.

Exercise Classes - For those who want to continue their fitness routines while on board the ship, Crystal provides many ways to accomplish this. There are a variety of fitness classes offered each day, including the "Walk on Water" program using the WALKVEST and the Nordic Walking Program. Pilates and yoga classes are offered. Stretching sessions, stationary bicycle classes, Body Sculpt boot camp were offered and informational seminars were offered on such topics as flattening your abs, relieving back pain, detoxing and the benefits of acupuncture. Crystal Serenity also has a nicely-equipped Fitness Center on Deck 13.

Various other activities were offered each day including:

Bingo
Team Trivia
Bridge lessons
Ballroom dance lessons
Art lessons using Watercolor
Scarf-tying
Napkin folding
Oragami lessons
Golf clinics and golf simulator
Table tennis and Paddle tennis tournaments
Casino gaming lessons and slot tournaments
Needlepoint and knitting sessions

There were four male Ambassador Hosts on this cruise for ladies traveling along and looking for a dance partner.

SPA AND SALON

The Crystal Spa & Salon, located on Deck 13 aft, is now operated by ETRO and can be reached by using the aft elevators/staircase. The spa offers several types of massage and facial services. Each day, a spa "special" was offered with a discount on a combination of services. The salon offers hair cuts, color services, styling. manicures, pedicures and much more.

FITNESS CENTER

Across from the spa and salon on Deck 13 you will find a very nicely-equipped Fitness Center. The only way (that we could figure out) to get to the Spa and Fitness Center is to take the aft staircase/elevator to Deck 13. There is no outside access to the Fitness Center, even though you can exit to the outer deck from the Fitness Center.

The Fitness Center has a variety of modern treadmills and other cardio equipment as well as free weights and weight machines. A small yoga exercise room can be used for stretching or one of the many fitness classes conducted by the fitness staff.

PORTS OF CALL

On our 10-night sailing, we visited nine different ports in six different countries, making it one of the most diverse itineraries we have ever done on an ocean cruise. Highlights, in our opinion, were Lisbon, Barcelona, Florence (Livorno) and St. Tropez, but all ports we visited were interesting.

It is important to note that Crystal provided complimentary shuttle service in most ports on this itinerary (where local laws allowed). This service often goes unmentioned, but is a huge benefit to guests and is part of the "all-inclusive" nature of Crystal Cruises.

STAFF AND CREW

As you might expect on a 5-star cruise line, the staff and crew on Crystal Serenity were friendly, helpful and engaging. We were impressed at how many of the crew would call us by name. That is an impressive feat on a ship this size.

THE UPS AND DOWNS

Ups

All-inclusive policy continues to be a hit
New smoking (or non-smoking) policy
Best staterooms of any cruise line
Excellent 5-star service
Great dining options
Free Internet for return guests

Downs

Daily menus and activity schedule should be displayed on stateroom TV or intranet
Carpeting in some areas needs replacing
Tastes could benefit from some tweaking

VIDEO

SUMMARY

One of the main objectives of this sailing was for us to determine if Crystal, under new ownership, was going to maintain (or exceed, if possible) the standards of excellence that has earned it so many awards over the years. With an aggressive expansion program already underway, it will be very interesting to see if Crystal can maintain its reputation, or perhaps, even surpass it. The next challenge will be for Crystal to extend the luxury experience to the 62-guest Crystal Esprit which is set to begin operations in December 2015. There were several areas where we noticed an improvement over our 2013 sailing, and only a couple we felt were lacking by comparison (none of which were significant). This can be normal from any single cruise to the next and cannot be attributed to any change in policy from new ownership.

As for now, it appears that Crystal intends to continue to lavish its guests with the service and luxury to which they have become accustomed. The Crystal faithful can look forward to this level of luxury in a variety of new formats including a yacht, river cruising, new ship builds and air travel. Exciting? Indeed!

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 1/7/15 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 1/7/15

Sub-Antarctic Adventure on Silversea Expeditions' Silver Discoverer

We enjoy a 15-night adventure aboard Silversea Expeditions Silver Discoverer exploring the Sub-Antarctic Islands.

Itinerary: Dunedin, The Snares, Enderby Island, At Sea, Macquarie Island, At Sea, Campbell Island, At Sea, The Antipodes, Bounty Islands, Pitt Island, Chatham Islands, At Sea, Napier, Wellington

Just days after announcing Silversea Expeditions' Silver Explorer as our pick for BEST Expedition Cruise Ship in 2014, we embark on her sister, Silver Discoverer. This time, it is a 15-night expedition to the rarely visited subantarctic islands off the coast of New Zealand.

Silver Discoverer is the newest ship in the Silver Expeditions fleet, and she just happens to also be the smallest, catering to only 120 guests with a crew of 96. The ship was most recently refurbished in 2014. We boarded the ship using the gangway up to Deck 4 where you will find the Reception Desk and the Explorer Lounge. The Explorer Lounge is the hub of activity on Discoverer, serving as both the ship's lecture center and only indoor bar. Deck 3 is where you will find The Restaurant which is reminiscent of other Silversea ships and is the venue for evening meals. Deck 5 is where you will find the Discoverer Lounge, which is actually not a "lounge" at all but the ship's Lido buffet where all breakfast and lunch meals are served.

*Comfortable seating in Explorer Lounge*

Aft of Discoverer Lounge is the Pool Bar and The Grill (outside). This space is open for lunch each day serving burgers, hot dogs, fries, onion rings, chicken sandwiches, etc. In the evening, this space is used for Silversea's signature "Hot Rock" dining. Staterooms, or as Silversea prefers, "suites", are located on decks 3, 4, 5 and 6. On Deck 7 is the ship's small fitness center and salon/spa. There is a lot of open deck space on Deck 7 which is good for whale-watching or bird spotting. This is also where the ship stores the Zodiacs used for exploring and for shuttling guests to shore.

*Silver Discoverer is the smallest ship in the Silver Expeditions fleet*

There is an elevator across from Reception that takes you from Deck 3 all the way to Deck 7. There is only one indoor staircase located amidships. It is very easy to find your way around Silver Discoverer. Below the pool deck aft is where guests access the Zodiacs, the small, rubber expedition boats that are the workhorses of any expedition ship. A retractable "marina" platform makes embarking and disembarking the Zodiacs an easy process

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Veranda Suite on Deck 6 (604) was a comfortable 284 sq. ft (including a 30 sq. ft. balcony). The comfortable queen bed is two twin beds pushed together and topped with the highest quality linens you will find on any cruise ship. A selection of pillows is available to add to the perfect night's sleep.

On the wall across from the bed is a long desk/dresser/vanity with a mirror above and drawers for storage. Next to the bed is another desk that I was able to use for my laptop workstation. There is a small mini-fridge under the desk, stocked daily with your beverages of choice. On top of the desk is a plastic holder for glasses in an attempt to make this sort of an in-suite bar. There are two small closets side-by-side with adequate hanging space for a 15-night cruise. At the bottom of the closet there was one long, shallow drawer and one small drawer. There is also a large drawer under the bed on each side.

*Elegant accommodations for an expedition ship*

What you won't find are shelves in the room for things like camera gear, etc. We soon learned why this is the case on an expedition ship. In rough seas, you don't want your $3,000 Canon flying across the room! There is a nice sofa, marble coffee table and two chairs. The coffee table can easily be converted into a dining table for en suite dining (there is a square table top hidden behind the sofa that can be placed on the coffee table to make it larger.)

The large flat screen television is mounted on the wall across from the bed, just above the sofa. Silver Discoverer has a different television system than we experienced on Silver Explorer last year, and not one we are crazy about. In fact, the only real problem we had with the suite was with the television. First, the remote control would only work from within about three feet of the television, so to change channels, volume, etc, you had to get out of bed and walk over to the TV. That sort of defeats the purpose of a remote. Also, the television would routinely "crash" or hang, which meant a "reboot" of sorts was required. Our butler showed me how, by removing the HDMI cable on the side of the unit and re-inserting it, the system would reset itself. This was required at least once a day to keep the TV working. On the plus side, the programming choices offered are excellent. There are current movie choices, several news channels including FOX News, Sky News, BBC, etc. And, all of the TV programs can also be accessed over the ship's Wi-Fi using your laptop or portable device. Pretty cool.

The bathroom in the Veranda Suite is a nice size with decent storage. In keeping with Silversea's unmatched style, the bathroom is clad in elegant marble and amenitized (yes, I just made up that word) with high-quality Bvlgari products.

The most important feature of any Silversea suite is the butler, and we had a great one. Soon after we were in our suite, Jomit showed up to introduce himself and explain all about the suite. He and his assistant, Ronaldo, did an excellent job of keeping the suite in perfect condition during the cruise.

THE CREW

We have always found Silversea crew to be warm, friendly and welcoming. This was certainly the case on Silver Discoverer. Our butler, Jomit, seemed to know what we wanted even before we did. When he and his capable assistant, Ronaldo, decorated the suite for my birthday, the festive décor even included a light show! A Silversea butler will unpack your bags, make dining and/or spa reservations, arrange en suite dining, and provide just about anything else you might require. Both Jomit and Ronaldo went out of their way to always greet us by name and wish us a wonderful day. This level of friendly, efficient service pervaded the entire ship.

In the Explorer Lounge, Welma tended bar and always knew that Rickee liked Stellina prosecco and I liked Dewars on the rocks. When she found out we liked potato chips, she included them each day as one of our cocktail "snacks". Shieba knew we had a special wine and always made sure to have it available for us at lunch and dinner. After our first onboard dining experience, where Rolondo provided excellent service, he always brought butter and bottled water for us at lunch without our having to ask. In the Restaurant, we seemed to always occupy the same table for two where we were in the capable hands of Jesse. When he learned that Rickee liked smaller portions of food, he made sure that she always received a beautiful plate of food, just with smaller portions. These are just a few examples of the kind of excellent personalized service that each Silversea guest receives. It always amazes us that the crew can address each guest by name on the first day of the cruise!

FOOD AND DINING

Silversea always does a good job of providing a quality dining experience. That is no easy task on an expedition ship that can go 15 days without re-provisioning. Even though tomatoes and a few other fresh vegetable items become scarce by the end of the sailing, the executive chef and his brigade did an admirable job of delivering Silversea quality under challenging conditions. The breakfast buffet in Discoverer Lounge each morning had everything you would find on a much larger ship, including eggs made to order.

A substantial lunch buffet was served each day in Discoverer Lounge with a variety of salads, sandwiches, soups, main courses and desserts. We found a small table for two on the first day that was positioned right in the middle of the dining room (between port and starboard). The location in the middle minimizes the effect of any rolling motion of the ship. And, in the subantarctic region, the seas can be formidable. Since we always arrived for lunch early, this table became ours for the entire cruise. Even though Silversea offers a choice of red and white wines that change each day, we asked Shieba if they had any Riesling or Moscato on board. She presented us with a Bin 90 Moscato that was perfect for our tastes and from that day forward, we never had to ask. Shieba would bring us Bin 90 at lunch or dinner. That is typical of Silversea service and attention to detail.

*Discoverer Lounge is the spot for breakfast and lunch each day*

Another option at lunch is The Grill located aft on Deck 5. While we did not dine outside on this sailing due to the wind and cold, I did order a cheeseburger at lunch a couple of times from our waiter in Discoverer Lounge. The Grill offers burgers, fries, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, etc.

*A choice of delicious salads and sandwiches/wraps is available each day*

An Afternoon Tea is served each day at 4pm, typically in Discoverer Lounge. On sea days, the Tea was moved to Explorer Lounge and combined with Team Trivia. Afternoon Tea offers guests a selection of teas along with scones, cookies, finger sandwiches and other goodies.

For dinner, guests can choose from three venues. First, The Restaurant on Deck 3 is a formal dining room with full menu service. I should qualify that "formal" pertains only to the decor of the dining room, and the dress code of the staff. There are no "formal" nights on Silversea Expeditions (see Experience below for more information on dress codes). Another option is to dine al fresco on Deck 5 at The Grill featuring "hot rock" dining under the stars. Guests choose their seafood or prime meats and grill them at their table on a heated volcanic rock plate. We have enjoyed Hot Rocks on other Silversea ships, but did not dine there on Silver Discoverer. It was a bit cold and windy outside on this sailing, and The Restaurant was so comfortable we found ourselves dining there each night. Another option is room service. In the evening, any item on The Restaurant menu is available for delivery to your suite.

ENTERTAINMENT/ACTIVITIES

Each Silversea Expeditions ship is staffed with a knowledgeable and capable Expedition Team consisting of subject matter experts in various scientific fields pertinent to the area in which you are sailing. On our Sub-Antarctic Islands voyage, we had the pleasure of again sailing with Expedition Leader, Juan Restrepo, with whom we had sailed last year onboard Silver Explorer in the Chilean Fjords. Juan and his team of nine were always available to answer questions or provide additional information about what we had seen on our excursions.

As with most expedition voyages, this trip was all about the destination and the amazing wildlife and birds that populate this remote area. The ship does not have a casino or production shows in the evening. There are no guest entertainers, although each evening Mervin played the piano for our listening pleasure in the Explorer Lounge. We were entertained by the incredible scenery and plants and birds and seals and whales we saw each day, either from a trip to shore in the Zodiac or a Zodiac "cruise" around that day's island when local regulations did not allow us to go ashore. Expedition Team members were utilized as Zodiac drivers and pointed out wildlife, geological formations, birds and plant life as we motored to or around an island. The fleet of Zodiacs that the ship carries make it possible to get to places where there are no piers and to islands surrounded by shallow waters. These rigid rubber boats are specifically designed for nature exploration and are rugged and very safe, sturdy and durable. The marina platform at the aft end of Silver Discoverer made getting into and out of the Zodiacs a lot easier.

*Zodiacs are the workhorses of a Silversea Expeditions adventure*

On our few days at sea, or mornings and afternoons en route to our next island, members of the Expedition Team gave lectures on subjects in their fields of expertise which, among our Expedition Team, included botany, zoology (especially ornithology), marine biology, geology, and history of exploration. Documentary videos pertinent to the area we were visiting were shown in Explorer Lounge. Afternoon Tea Team Trivia was conducted by different members of the Expedition Team and the questions were usually based on his or her latest lecture. On some days, weather-permitting, deck time with the Expedition Team was scheduled where guests would join the team on deck to look for sea birds or other wildlife.

Each evening during Recap and Briefing, everyone looked forward to Juan's description of what we would see and do the next day. His detailed charts on predicted weather and sea conditions were spot on! In addition, Expedition Team members would take turns giving short presentations "recapping" and elaborating on what we had seen that day. During this time each evening, canapes were offered by waiters.

Another activity we enjoyed was a "martini tasting" where we got to taste four different martinis and see how each is made. We sat around the bar in Explorer Lounge and watched Welma make the martinis while Bar Manager, Elbert, talked about the ingredients and how each recipe originated. It was great fun and we all received a copy of the martini "recipes" to take with us.

To let you know what to expect for the next day, activities and meal times were noted in the Chronicles which was delivered to your stateroom each evening. The Chronicles also presented information about the history of the island we would visit next and what we should expect to see there in the way of flora and fauna. It was a nice introduction to things to come.

There is a small gym on Deck 7 and a spa offering services such as massage, manicures and pedicures.

THE DESTINATION

Expedition cruises are ALL about the destination and this one was no exception. The subantarctic islands are a remote group of islands south of New Zealand which, in recognition of their rare and special nature, were designated a World Natural Heritage Area in 1998. Because these islands, uninhabited by humans, are so remote and logistically difficult to get to, they are visited by only about 500 tourists per year. Silver Discoverer visited all five island groups - The Snares, Bounty, Antipodes, Auckland and Campbell Islands - each of which exhibit a character all its own. Their geographical isolation from the mainland and each other has shaped these islands' remarkable biodiversity and made them epicenters of evolution. We also visited Macquarie Island, Australia, where they had recently successfully completed a seven-year project to eradicate rats, rabbits and mice from the island.

Silversea works closely with the Department of Conservation of New Zealand, and by implementing strict bio-security protocols, ensures that no invasive species are introduced on to these pristine islands or transferred from one island to another by Silversea guests. Before boarding the Zodiac to go ashore, Silver Discoverer guests were required to thoroughly examine all outerwear for any foreign material, such as grass burrs or seeds, that could be inadvertently taken ashore. A handheld vacuum cleaner was available to remove any debris. Before our first landing, each guest took their items to the Explorer Lounge where they were further checked by an Expedition Team member. Walking sticks had to be sanitized as did tri-pods. A boot cleaning station consisting of a plastic pan of sanitizing solution was placed at the bottom of the stairs leading to the Zodiac area and guests were required to clean their rubber boots before going ashore. This same process was repeated upon return from an island: boots were dipped and rinsed before the guest headed up to the Pool Deck.

Spanning six degrees of latitude, from 47 to 52 degrees south, the five island groups occupy the stormy latitudes of the "Roaring Forties" and "Furious Fifties". While we did experience rolling seas on a regular basis, only on one night did the area truly live up to its nickname with huge waves and high winds. The weather was mostly windy, cloudy and overcast, with frequent drizzle and cool temperatures. The few days when the sun did shine were magnificent.

*The SubAntarctic region can produce some rough seas*

At least 11 percent of all the world's seabirds breed in the subantarctic region of New Zealand and over 120 species have been observed at the islands or in the surrounding ocean, which makes these islands a birder's paradise. One of the rarest members of the seal family is found at Auckland and Campbell Islands: the New Zealand sea lion. Some of the islands have endemic life forms, meaning these life forms are found nowhere else in the world. There are no fewer than 15 species of land birds that are endemic to the subantarctic islands.The plant life of the subantarctic region is no less unusual. The World Conservation Union has designated the region a "world center of floristic diversity".

*Elephant Seal pup on Macquarie Island, Australia*

People visit these islands for commercial and scientific reasons and recently, for tourism. They want to experience the awesome wildlife in a remote and physically challenging setting. With more information becoming available about this area through documentaries and magazine articles and reviews such as this one, the curiosity about these remote islands increases. There is no better way to explore this incredible destination than on a Silversea Expeditions voyage.

THE EXPERIENCE

The typical expedition cruise guest is 40 to 60 years old, well-traveled and may or may not be an enthusiast of "traditional" cruising. Expedition cruises tend to attract those more interested in 'exploring' than 'cruising'. Many people are on the ship simply because it is the only way to get to the islands they are interested in visiting. Many of the guests on our cruise were hard-core "birders". Several different nationalities were represented, with only 11 guests from the United States. However, English was the official language spoken on the ship.

*The SubAntarctic Islands are a birder's paradise*

Every morning when an island visit or Zodiac tour was scheduled, Juan, the Expedition Leader, would gently wake us with an announcement over the PA one hour before departure. He told us the ship's location (longitude and latitude), what the weather conditions were and the outside temperature. If you did not want to hear this announcement, you could turn off the audio system in your suite.

Every Silversea Expedition features complimentary excursions led by the Expedition Team. Activities vary daily and are designed for most levels of interest and physical ability. Zodiacs are used to explore and as transportation to shore. Silversea provides a waterproof parka, a backpack and a stainless steel water bottle for each guest, all of which you can take home with you. As the Southern Ocean can sometimes be a bit rough, it is essential that you bring water-resistant pants and rubber boots to wear in the Zodiac to protect against the waves that inevitably splash over and into the boat. The rubber boots are necessary for getting out of the Zodiac to the shore which sometimes means stepping in shallow water. Boots can be necessary for walks on shore where conditions are sometimes muddy or there are streams to cross. Dressing in layers is crucial.

*Silversea provides a waterproof and warm parka that is yours to keep*

The excursions on our Sub-Antarctic Islands voyage included several hikes, some of which involved a boardwalk and some that did not. Sometimes there was a choice of excursions, with one usually designed for only the fittest guests and involving long hikes over challenging terrain. During one Zodiac cruise of the Antipodes, we sailed around a huge rock formation and were greeted by a Zodiac full of crew offering us champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries! Each time we returned from a Zodiac trip, we were greeted with a hot hand towel and a smiling Shanna Kay who offered us welcome-back beverages on the Pool Deck.

*Several excellent guided hikes were offered on the islands*

The dress code aboard Silver Discoverer is definitely casual during both daytime and evening. A few jackets and ties were visible at the Captain's Welcome Dinner and Farewell Dinner, but not many. Officially, the dress code, as indicated in the Chronicles, is "casual" on most nights with a few evenings designated as "casually elegant". Don't wear shorts, jeans or t-shirts to dinner and you will be fine. There is no need to bring a lot of clothes on this trip as laundry service is available for a fee.

There is a doctor on board, should you need medical attention. If you tend to get seasick, bring medication as the seas in this area are known to be rough. Silver Discoverer has logo items available for purchase from Reception. There is a display case of available items outside the Discoverer Lounge on Deck 5. There were few places on this trip to purchase souvenirs, since the subantarctic islands are uninhabited.

The fact that you can visit these remote islands in such luxury and style on a Silversea Expedition cruise makes the journey that much better!

SUMMARY

In many respects, an expedition cruise is about as far from what we have come to know as "the Silversea Experience" as you can get. When you think of Silversea, you think of elegance, fine dining, champagne, over-the-top service and personal attention. You don't think of it involving tromping through the mud on some uninhabited island, or sitting in the middle of 100,000 odiferous penguins. For this reason, Silversea has wisely established a separate brand, "Silversea Expeditions", so as to avoid any confusion. We have been on many expedition cruises and I can honestly say that none do a better job of the expedition side of the equation. The Expedition Team on Silver Discoverer (and on Silver Explorer in 2014) are excellent. What makes Silversea Expeditions unique is, at the "end of the day", (literally) after removing the parka and the muddy boots, guests get to enjoy the "Silversea Experience". It is this blending of "Silversea" and "Expedition" that makes this product truly one-of-a-kind. Trust me, the champagne tastes even better after a day of hiking and bird-watching.

VIDEO

PHOTO GALLERY

Embarkation

Rickee checks in onboard Silver Discoverer

Suite

Our luggage was delivered directly to our suite by Luggage Forward!

Photos

This cruise is a photographer’s dream

Parka

Rickee tries on her Silversea parka for the first time before boarding the Zodiac

Zodiac Photos

Hanging off the side of the Zodiac to get a photo

Zodiac tours

Zodiacs are used for tours and to shuttle guests ashore

Zodiac operations

Zodiacs embark/disembark from the aft deck of the ship

Pool Deck

Yes, there is a pool!

Balconu

There is a narrow balcony in our Owner’s Suite

Delicious Desserts

Silver Discoverer

A Windy Trail

This was one of the windiest hikes we have ever taken.

Binoculars

A good set of binoculars is a must.

Happy Birthday

The crew decorated our suite for my birthday, one of many I have celebrated aboard Silversea.

A treat

Chocolate covered strawberries and champagne on a Zodiac!

Butler and Attendant

Our butler and stateroom attendant were excellent throughout the cruise.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/29/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 11/29/14

Viking Longship Hlin Review

Our 7 nights aboard Viking Hlin came right before Christmas Markets, but many were already open!

Itinerary: Budapest, Vienna, Melk, Passau, Regensburg, Nuremberg

In case you have not noticed, Viking River Cruises has been seriously stepping up its game over the past couple of years. There are now 40 of the new Viking Longships in the fleet, and rumor has it that Viking ownership won’t be happy until there are 100. We have been sailing on Viking River Cruises since 2003, yet until now, we have not had the opportunity to experience one of the new Viking Longships. Well, the wait is over. We just spent a week aboard the new Viking Longship Hlin sailing from Budapest to Nuremberg.

BEFORE THE CRUISE

Whenever we embark or disembark a cruise in Budapest, we like to spend an extra day or two to explore this amazing city. Unfortunately, our schedule only allowed us one day in Budapest before embarking Viking Hlin. We flew from DFW on American Airlines to London, then from London to Budapest on British Airways. Weeks before we departed the USA, we arranged for Limo Hungary to have a driver meet us and transfer us to our hotel. The driver was waiting for us when we exited baggage claim and within 40 minutes, we were checking in at The Four Seasons Budapest Gresham Palace hotel. Our stay at the Four Seasons was what we have come to expect from Four Seasons: ultimate luxury. Make sure you read our review.

EMBARKATION

Viking Hlin was ‘parked’ right in front of our hotel (Four Seasons Gresham Palace) at the famous Chain Bridge. We were able to actually walk the short distance from the hotel to the ship, our rolling duffel bags in tow behind us. As soon as we approached the dock, two Viking River Cruises’ attendants grabbed our luggage and promised to have them delivered to our stateroom. We boarded on Deck 2 at 3pm, right at the Reception Desk. The check-in process could not have been more efficient. All that was requested was our passports, which we quickly surrendered. We were issued our stateroom keys and a steward escorted us to our Veranda Stateroom (309). As promised, our luggage was already waiting for us when we arrived.

THE SHIP

Viking Hlin is one of 40 Viking Longships. All of the Viking Longships have the same basic configuration; however, there may be subtle differences in design elements and decor between the various ships. So, just because you have sailed on one Longship does not mean you have sailed on all of them. The Longships are the largest riverboats sailing the rivers of Europe and can accommodate up to 194 guests. On our sailing, there were 151 guests. I cannot speak to what the ship feels like when at capacity, but on our cruise, the ship never felt crowded and long lines were not a problem.

Guests enjoy plush leather seating in the Viking Lounge

Viking River Cruises (VRC) has obviously done their homework on the design and construction of these Longships. The public spaces are open and spacious and have a much more upscale feel that what we have experienced on past VRC ships. Viking Hlin’s Viking Lounge on Deck 3 is a masterpiece of design with light wood tones and tan leather surfaces giving the ship a very “Scandinavian” feel. This theme carries throughout the ship, even into the staterooms. The attention to detail throughout the vessel is astonishing for a river cruise boat. The expansive windows in the Lounge make viewing picturesque river scenery much more pleasurable. One of the Viking Longship trademark features is the Aquavit Terrace, a unique indoor/outdoor dining/social venue that carries all the way out to the bow of the vessel with al fresco seating. Even though it was a bit too cold during our November sailing to allow for outside dining, Viking Hlin staff placed blankets on the chairs outside for the few brave souls who wanted to sit outdoors and enjoy the scenery.

The Aquavit Terrace offers a lot of al fresco seating (note the blankets)

Two coffee/tea stations are aft of the Lounge (one port and one starboard) and are available 24 hours a day for self-serve coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Pastries are placed here each morning, and cookies in the afternoon. Nice.There is also a dispenser for ice water, both still and bubbly.

Automated coffee/tea/hot chocolate station

On Deck 2 you find Reception, a small gift shop, which is really a wall of Viking logo-branded products. The Restaurant is located on Deck 2 forward and is a major re-design from previous Viking vessels. There is no real need for a large selection of sundries (toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) on a river cruise as these are readily available in every town along the river.

The Gift Shop across from Reception Desk

A portion of the Sun Deck on Deck 4 is completely exposed to the elements and will no doubt see lots of use in warm weather. On our November cruise, it was too cold to spend much time “up top”, but we did take a walk around. There is no pool or hot tub and the large, mostly unused chess set has been replaced with a mini-golf putting green and shuffleboard. An herb garden can also be found here, the contents of which will find their way into meal preparation. There are lots of seats, both under cover and open to the elements.

Golf putting on the Sun Deck and herb garden (left)

There is an elevator that can take guests from Deck 1 to Deck 3, but not to the Sun Deck. Ice machines are located on each deck and ice is self-serve. A small library on Deck 3 offers global newspapers and a quiet space for reading. Two computers nearby constitute a small 'Internet-cafe' for catching up on email. Wi-Fi Internet is complimentary and can be accessed from virtually anywhere on the ship, even from the staterooms. Internet connections are spotty and prone to outages, especially as the ship navigates through the many locks on the river. Internet speeds are slow compared to land-based Internet, or even Internet on ocean-going vessels. However, the Internet service is much improved over previous Viking ships on which we have sailed and is as good, or better, than we have had on any river ship.

A small library and reading space on Deck 3

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Veranda Stateroom (309) was 205 sq. ft and was comfortable for a one-week cruise. The decor of the stateroom follows the Scandinavian-inspired design of the rest of the ship with light wood tones. It looks very modern without looking “IKEA-like”. And, everything (for the most part) functions very well.

The modern, clean decor of Viking Hlin Veranda stateroom

The bed is comfortable, but ours had an annoyingly loud squeak in the frame when you got into or out of bed. It was impossible to get up in the middle of the night without waking up your travel companion. A large desk offers plenty of drawer storage space with soft-close dampened drawers. The sliding doors on the closets and bathroom are also intelligently dampened to prevent annoying slams. Once you slid the door to a certain point, the mechanism took over to finish gently closing the door. Again, a very well thought-out design. Cabin doors are also designed to make slamming doors difficult. Good job. The stateroom is one of the quietest we have ever sailed in. We never heard our neighbors on either side. The only noise was the occasional thumping coming from someone jogging on the Sun Deck above us. As with many newer ships, there is a slot by the stateroom door that turns on the cabin's lights whenever a key card is inserted. When you remove your key card, the lights in the cabin go off (except for the bathroom night light). We are notorious for forgetting to remove one of our key cards when leaving the stateroom, so we found out that a common business card will work, too!

The bathroom is a tight fit, but everything you need is there and Viking River Cruises still provides top-notch L’Occitane amenities. The thick, absorbent towels are very nice. And, the toilet seat lid has a self-lowering feature that prevents that "oops" moment when the lid slips out of your hand and loudly bangs shut when you start to close it to reach the flush button. Another very nice feature is the night light in the bathroom which provides ample lighting to prevent bumping into things when you need to get up in the middle of the night. There is a small mini-bar/refrigerator that you can use to keep cokes or bottled water in, but it is not stocked by the ship. Bottled water is provided and replenished each day, but not in individual plastic bottles. A glass, reusable bottle is refilled and sealed each day before being placed on your desk.

The television is one of the largest and nicest we have seen on any ship. The flat screen, HD TV is wall mounted across from the bed and is almost too big for the room. But, I am not complaining, it is great! Programming, too, is good. There is a choice of international news channels (CNN, BBC, CNBC Europe), sports and entertainment. A selection of complimentary movies is also available on demand, at no extra cost. The TV also serves as an information hub for weather, maps, music and Viking videos. There are Bow Cam and Lounge Cam channels so that you can follow the action from your stateroom.

The excellent wall-mounted television and expansive desk with lots of drawer space

The veranda is a bit cramped, but hey, this is a river ship! Any balcony is better than none, and this one is comfortable enough for two people to sit and enjoy coffee in the morning while the European countryside passes by. Of course, the weather on our cruise was a bit cold to spend time enjoying the balcony much, but it was great to be able to step out to take a photo when something interesting appeared. We look forward to sailing on a Longship in warmer weather so we can really enjoy the balcony to its fullest.

Just about everywhere you look in the Veranda Stateroom, you can see innovations that we wish all river cruise lines would employ, including the addition of many electrical outlets, both 110 (US-style) and 220 (European-style 2-pin). There are outlets at two locations on the desk and above each night stand. The 220 euro-style 2-pin outlets work fine with most modern electronics like camera chargers, cell phones, iPad/iPhone/iPod, computer chargers, etc. All you need are simple adapters that you can buy from any electronics store.

FOOD AND DINING

We have noticed a consistent improvement in Viking dining over the years. Each cruise seems to be better than the last. The Restaurant on Deck 2 is the de facto dining venue serving breakfast, lunch and dinner each day. Breakfast is primarily a buffet affair with a wide variety of breakfast items readily available for the taking. The buffet serving-station design is much improved over previous Viking ships, and is the best layout we have seen so far on any river cruise vessel. A chef is on hand at the buffet to prepare egg dishes to order if the scrambled eggs on the buffet do not suit your fancy. And, you can order poached eggs, Eggs Benedict, French toast or pancakes from your waiter.

The buffet serving station is the best we have seen on any river cruise ship

For lunch, the Restaurant serves a hybrid buffet/table service meal. You select appetizers and salads from the buffet while main course orders are placed with your waiter and are delivered to your table. On most days, a pasta station is manned by a chef creating fresh pasta dishes.

The Restaurant set for casual lunch service

There is no buffet in The Restaurant at dinner. Evening meals are strictly menu based with full table service. Menus change every day and selections usually include one fish and one meat choice along with a vegetarian option. There are a few items “Always Available” including a Caesar salad, salmon filet, grilled chicken breast and grilled New York steak. The New York steak was my “go to” option on at least three evenings. It is just my personal taste. I am a beef guy. I found each steak to be cooked perfectly as ordered, and flavorful. The steaks are served with a trio of dipping sauces, creamy mashed potatoes and broccoli.

The service in the dining room was hit and miss. With the open-seating concept, which we love, we had the opportunity to dine in a few different sections with different waiters. The waiters now use an iPod-style device to take orders, which we presume are then transmitted to the galley. The system was not able to prevent the wrong dishes from being placed in front of the wrong guest on more than one or two evenings. It is as if they had no idea who ordered what dish. That part could use some work. Also, ladies' orders were not always taken first and dishes were not always served to the ladies before the gentlemen. That said, the wait staff were all very pleasant and willing to serve, so it is probably just a training issue. Also, we never got the feeling that the ship was understaffed. There always seemed to be someone available and visible when we needed something. Water glasses were regularly filled and the complimentary wine service was very efficient.

Viking Longships, Hlin included, also offer a casual alternate dining venue in the Aquavit Terrace. Here guests can enjoy a continental breakfast each morning, a casual buffet “light” lunch, or a “bar menu” in the evening during dinner time. There are a few tables inside Aquavit and even more outside at the bow of the ship for al fresco dining. Some tables are set in the Viking Lounge for Aquavit dining as well. We enjoyed the light lunch in Aquavit on several days, preferring the relative calm of the Viking Lounge to the more crowded Restaurant. Also, we were able to get a table for two in Viking Lounge! We did not try the “bar menu” for dinner and I had a bit of a challenge finding out exactly what is served in the evenings. One of the bartenders told me it is basically hamburgers and fries, but I cannot confirm that. I never saw a “bar menu” posted.

Fresh fruit is always available in Aquavit

In addition to the daily meals, there are a few standout special themed meals. The Captain’s Farewell dinner was a five-course menu degustation that was impressive in scope and execution. The dining highlight on our cruise, however, was the Austrian feast. During this special dining event, all staff were wearing traditional Austrian garb and serving guests in both Aquavit and The Restaurant.

Guests could even venture into the galley to fill their plates, combining a dining event with a galley tour of sorts. Local musicians were circulating throughout the ship keeping guests entertained as we all enjoyed endless glasses of Austrian beer. It was one of the best- executed special dining events we have experienced on a cruise ship.

ENTERTAINMENT

Each evening, Viking Hlin invites guests to the Lounge for Cocktail Hour (5:30 - 6:30). Dimitir could always be found entertaining on the piano as guests mixed and mingled, enjoying their favorite beverages. Bar service was very good with plenty of waiters circulating through the Lounge. A small tray with an assortment of nuts to munch on was placed on each table during Cocktail Hour.

Dimitir continued to entertain guests in the Lounge after dinner. However, on select evenings, local entertainers came aboard to provide guests with a combination of song, dance and music. All of the local entertainers were very good.

EXCURSIONS

One of the biggest benefits of river cruising is the included excursions. At every port we visited, Viking offered excellent motorcoach and/or walking tours. The local guides were all exceptional, spoke good English and were informative. The use of the provided Quiet Vox receivers makes walking tours in Europe a pleasure as you can venture off from the group a bit and still her the guide's commentary.

It is important to note that on our cruise, we enjoyed the use of brand-new Viking motorcoaches. These coaches are spotlessly clean, comfortable and very well designed. They even have a GPS screen to show where the coach is at any given time during the tour. Unfortunately, we only noticed the GPS displayed during the Budapest tour.

Viking provides complimentary bottled water on a table as you exit the ship for excursions, a very nice touch. A basket filled with bright red umbrellas is on hand for guests to grab one if the weather looks sketchy. If any guests require a wheelchair, that will be placed outside as well. Once again, Viking's attention to detail is impressive.

Complimentary bottled water, umbrellas and wheelchair (if necessary) are available before local tours

In addition to the included excursions, a variety of optional excursions were offered on this cruise. We opted for two of the optional tours. The Mozart and Strauss Classical Concert in Vienna (64€ pp) is simply a must. You do not want to visit Vienna without attending a classical music concert. The musicians, opera singers and ballet performers were amazing.

In Regensburg, we took the optional BMW factory tour (29€ pp). This in-depth look at how BMW builds their luxury vehicles will be enjoyed by any auto enthusiast, especially Beemer owners or aspiring owners.

STAFF AND CREW

We were a bit concerned with how well trained and efficient the staff would be on this cruise given that Viking has launched so many new ships in a such a short period of time. Our fears have been put to rest. I don’t know how Viking can launch 10 brand new ships at one time, then launch 14 more at one time the following year, but they did it. And it would seem that service levels have not suffered in the process. We found the entire staff and crew to be pleasant, helpful, smiling and happy.

Program Director, Valentin, was always on hand to keep the activities moving along like clockwork. Chef Thomas and Hotel Director, Robert, were also very visible and approachable throughout the entire cruise.

OTHER COSTS

As previously mentioned, Viking River Cruises includes soft drinks, beer and wine with lunch and dinner, a great value. However, if you choose to enjoy cocktails, beer, wine or soda at other times, there is a charge. A Johnny Walker Black Label scotch will cost you 7.50€ (about $9.25 US). A 3.5oz Viking sparkling wine (champagne) will cost you only 3.50€ and we consider that to be the best drink bargain on Viking. In addition to your bar tab, there are also gratuities which are completely at your discretion. However, guidelines suggest $12 per day/per guest for the crew and $3 per day/per guest for the Program Director. The only other cost would be any optional tours (e.g. classical concert in Vienna) that you choose to enjoy or any laundry you send out.

THE VIKING CRUISE EXPERIENCE

The general atmosphere for river cruising is casual and relaxed. Dress codes are much less strict on the river than on the ocean. As this sailing was in the winter, with colder temperatures, everyone was wearing long slacks during the day. Many gentlemen will wear a sport coat to dinner in the evenings and some ladies will wear dresses. However, slacks are fine and jackets are not required. People do tend to dress a bit more for the Captain’s functions. I wore a sport coat with an open collar shirt and did not feel under dressed.

This was a much younger crowd that we have experienced on previous Viking River Cruises. Ages were all over the place with a few 30-somethings all the way up to 70-somethings, and everything in between. It would seem that Viking is expanding the appeal of river cruising to a broader demographic. There were even a few small children aboard. This diversity in demographics could be a function of the fact that this was a Christmas Markets cruise. The ship's public areas were decorated and there were even a few decorated Christmas trees to contribute to the festive atmosphere.

SUMMARY

Viking River Cruises is taking no prisoners in the river cruise war. They just may have the best hardware in the business with these new Longships and their software (onboard service, food, excursions) just keeps improving with age. It is no wonder they are the largest and fastest- growing river cruise company in the world. Usually, when companies grow like this, they are doing something right. In our opinion, Viking is doing a lot of things right.

So, is there anything we don't like about Viking Hlin? Well, the tromping noise coming from above when someone is jogging on the sun deck is annoying, but this only happened a few times, and mostly in the middle of the day. Also, that would only affect certain staterooms on Deck 3. We would like to see a defined evening menu for Aquavit. The service in the dining room could also stand some tweaking. All of these are details that can be easily addressed and I doubt many guests would even take notice. There was nothing we found that would prevent anyone from having an excellent vacation aboard this ship. From a hardware perspective, Viking River Cruises has everyone beat, at least every one we have sailed with. Quite simply put, the Viking Longship Hlin is the best-designed river ship on which we have ever sailed.

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/8/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/8/14

12 Night Scandinavia Cruise aboard Royal Princess

We celebrate our 20th anniversary aboard the biggest and newest love boat!

Itinerary: Copenhagen, Oslo, Gothenburg, Warnemunde, At Sea, Tallin, St. Petersburg, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Stockholm, At Sea, Copenhagen

Never has a television show launched an entire industry into the spotlight like The Love Boat did for the cruise industry in the 70s and 80s. I can still remember watching every week as Captain Stubing, Doc, Julie and Isaac sailed to every exotic location aboard the Pacific Princess. At the heart of the series was romance, hence the name "Love" boat. An entire generation began to associate cruising and romance. Therefore, when trying to decide where Rickee and I would celebrate being together for twenty years, there was only one logical choice: The Love Boat!

Cruising has changed a lot since the 70s. The Pacific Princes (20,000 tons) from the TV show would look like a lifeboat next to the new Royal Princess (142,000 tons). The Princess Theater on Royal Princess can hold more than twice the number of people of the original Pacific Princess. But what about the romance factor? Is it still possible to find and/or nurture "love" on a boat that holds 3,800 people?

THE CRUISE

Our 11-night Baltic cruise is a round-trip sailing from Copenhagen, Denmark. Copenhagen is worthy of a pre-/post-cruise stay of a couple of days. Princess offers pre-/post-cruise options here and guests traveling from the USA, Canada or Australia should seriously consider at least two extra days here. You need one day just to shed the jet lag, and another day to explore the city. If we were rating destinations from 1 to 5, we would probably give this itinerary a 4. This is a port-intensive itinerary with only two sea days out of eleven. For more details on the ports we visited, check our daily cruise blog. The highlights, in our opinion, are St. Petersburg, Russia, Tallin, Estonia and Stockholm, Sweden*. The asterisk (*) on Stockholm is because, due to her massive size, Royal Princess has to tender guests into Nynashmn, Sweden, then further transfer guests into Stockholm on motor coaches. This adds a cost of $59 per person just to get to Stockholm and takes away about three hours of port time.

Royal Princess

THE SHIP

The Royal Princess is one of the newest ships in the Princess fleet, eclipsed only by her younger sister, Regal Princess. Royal is just over a year old (at the time of our sailing), and, as you would expect, still looks shiny and new. At 142,000 tons, Royal is among some of the largest ships afloat. In keeping with most modern ship designs, interior public spaces are located on Decks 5, 6 and 7. Outdoor decks are 16 (Lido), 17, and 18. There are two standout features of Royal Princess: the Skywalk, a semi-oval structure that extends out from Deck 16 allowing guests to walk on a glass walkway as they look down and see the ocean rushing below them; and the massive HD video screen mounted on Deck 18 and visible to those on the Lido Deck (16) and Deck 17.

The massive screen can be seen from a mile away

The interior of the ship is beautiful, albeit a bit more understated than say, MSC Divina. Where MSC goes for a more "blingy" look, Royal Princess' decor is understated elegance. The most visual impact is in The Piazza on Deck 5 with marble, brass and LED lighting and expansive and open views of Decks 6 and 7 in a "centrum" of sorts. There are several bars and dining venues on Decks 5, 6 and 7 that look into The Piazza, making it a hub of activity. This area can get noisy during peak periods, especially when entertainers crank up the music in The Piazza on Deck 5.

Sun lovers will enjoy massive amounts of open deck space and plenty of loungers on Decks 16, 17 and 18. The ship is very well equipped for the Caribbean and Mediterranean markets in the summertime. There are some kids-only areas that are so well segregated that we never even saw them. In fact, even with more than 500 children on this cruise, they were never an annoyance to the adult couples like us, an indication that Princess' kids' programs are working perfectly.

RoyalPrincess - 23.jpg — Plenty of sun loungers for everyone to enjoy

For adult cruisers who want to ensure that no "rug rats" interfere with their solitude, Royal Princess offers The Retreat Pool and Bar on Deck 17 forward. This adults-only area has a nice pool, many loungers and even four semi-private cabanas which are available to rent. The cabanas here are tent-like structures with fabric that can cover three sides. Two padded loungers are inside each cabana and are a definite upgrade from the standard loungers. These cabanas are available for $50 (half day) or $80 (full day). Guests can reserve the cabanas by going to Deck 17 forward and speaking with The Sanctuary steward on duty. It is possible to reserve a cabana for the entire cruise. Princess also offers some very nice "picnic baskets" for cabana guests.

However, for the ultimate in privacy and luxury, The Sanctuary is located all the way forward on Deck 17. Whereas any adult can access The Retreat for free, The Sanctuary is reserved for guests paying a $40 per day fee ($20 for half a day). Here, guests enjoy the upgraded, padded sun loungers positioned in the sun or shade, and access to shaded seating areas to escape the sun if necessary. Sanctuary stewards are available to deliver food and drinks to Sanctuary guests. Complimentary cucumber water or citrus water is available for the asking. There is a special Sanctuary menu with specialty food items. The food is complimentary; however, there is a nominal $3 service fee for delivery.

Padded sun loungers are a plus in The Sanctuary

The best of the best are the private cabanas found in The Sanctuary. These cabanas are as nice (or nicer) than you will find in any 5-star beach resort. They are solid structures, slatted on the sides to let air flow through. The front of the cabanas is open, but there are drapes that can be closed for more privacy. Each cabana has its own large, flat-screen, HD television with access to all of the ship's programming. There is a sofa that can comfortably seat three adults and there is an additional padded chair. The wicker coffee table is large enough to hold lunch for three or four. Complimentary bathrobes and extra pool towels are provided. Two Bose® Quiet Comfort™ noise-cancelling headsets can be hooked up to the provided iPods which have been pre-loaded with a selection of playlists. Alternatively, you can connect the headsets to wireless receivers to listen to the TV programming. A large speaker mounted inside the cabin would indicate that Princess tried using ambient sound for the televisions and, most likely, found that it disturbed other Sanctuary guests looking for peace and quiet. The wireless system worked perfectly. Two padded and luxurious Sanctuary loungers are positioned in the cabana's "front yard", so to speak. The idea is to lounge in the sun, and retreat to the cabana for some shade and refreshment when things get too hot. That refreshment comes in the form of complimentary soft drinks, candy and bottled water stocked in the mini-fridge.

Sanctuary Steward, Claudia, makes sure Sanctuary guests are comfortable

For something more substantial, Sanctuary Stewards are always available to fetch your favorite cocktail or beverage from The Retreat Bar right next door, or food items from the Sanctuary menu. It would seem that Princess has thought of everything... well, almost everything. The cabanas (and Sanctuary Loungers for that matter) should have a small waste basket or trash bag. A call button to request a steward would also be helpful. Stewards are stationed at the entrance on the starboard side of The Sanctuary. If your cabana is on the port side, as ours was, you either have to wait for a steward to make his rounds, or you have to get up and walk around to the steward station. Also, what amenities actually are provided with the cabanas is still a bit of a mystery. We ordered two cocktails, Rickee's was full price, while mine was significantly discounted. Also, we received our choice of a complimentary small bottle of liquor, presumably to enjoy in the cabana but we did not receive it until we only had about 45 minutes left to enjoy the cabana. All of these shortcomings are minor, and easily addressed by Princess. In spite of the nit-picking, our half-day in the private cabana was one of the highlights of the entire cruise. Sanctuary cabanas rent for $220 for a full day or $140 for 1/2 day.

Sanctuary private cabanas are the ultimate luxury in the sun

“The cabanas book fast, so don’t wait to reserve one. This should probably be the first thing you do when you get on board. Go to Deck 17 forward, walk through The Retreat Pool to The Sanctuary Steward station which is the only place you can make a reservation. Also, consider booking a cabana or Sanctuary lounger on a port day. We did this in St. Petersburg since we had visited there only last year. We had the entire Sanctuary to ourselves!”

— CruiseReport Tip

The Skywalk lets guests walk out over the water with a view of the ocean below

While the rest of us are exercising our jaw muscles at Horizon Court or Prego's Pizzeria, the healthy among us can sculpt their bodies in The Fitness Center on Deck 17 aft. Here you can find just about any torture device (exercise equipment) you could possibly want. A Sports Deck (18) has a basketball court, table tennis, a putting green and a jogging/walking track. Interestingly, the Fitness Center is 12 decks above the Lotus Spa, which is next to Reception on Deck 5 forward. So, if you want to hit The Enclave for some soothing steam or sauna after your workout, you will get a bit more exercise as you hoof it down to Deck 5. You will also find a variety of fitness activities being held throughout the ship, such as Zumba in Princess LIVE! studio.

The Casino on Deck 6 is open to take your donations when the ship is not in port. You will find lots of slots, even penny slots. When you play a slot machine and insert your key card into the designated spot, you accumulate points, I am not sure what the points are good for, but I have about 73 of them. Slot winnings are posted to your electronic "Bank" allowing you to move to another machine and play with your bank balance. You can retrieve the cash from your "bank account" at any time from the cashier. There are craps, roulette and blackjack tables on the starboard side of the casino. The place really gets hopping in the evenings, and is the only place on the ship we smelled cigarette smoke. Interesting, since I am certain on day one, they announced no smoking allowed anywhere inside the ship. However, we did notice in the Princess Patter that one particular night was designated as "No Smoking Night in the Casino".

Slots and table games are available in The Casino

There are token-operated self-serve laundrettes on each floor with dispensers for detergent. We determined the cost to do a load of laundry to be about $5. The ship also has full laundry services available for reasonable prices. I sent out a pair of jeans and two shirts for $11.50 and they were returned the next day. On the last sea day, Princess ran a promotion where you could stuff a laundry bag as full as you could and have your laundry done for $20.

Our only real complaint with the ship was the elevator situation. Elevators were slow and very crowded. The problem is exacerbated by the lack of amidships stairs from Decks 8 through 16. This problem is most noticeable for guests whose staterooms are closest to the amidships elevators. If your stateroom is closer to the aft or forward elevators, the problem is not as apparent. Our stateroom was closest to the amidships elevators, so we really noticed the issue. If guests are trying to get from Decks 5, 6 or 7 (public areas) to their amidships staterooms on Decks 8 through 15, they are forced to use the elevators. Our stateroom was on Deck 15 (Marina). Guests who might normally walk up two or three flights of stairs to get to Deck 8, 9 or 10 have to use the elevator which causes two issues: One, the elevators get overcrowded, and Two, the elevators stop on nearly every floor on the way up or down. Another scenario: we were on Deck 15, just one deck below the Lido (pool) deck. If we want to go to the pool (amidships) or to Horizon Bistro, or Prego Pizza or Seaview Bar (you get the idea), taking the elevator was not an option because, by the time it reached Deck 15, it was crammed full of other guests from lower decks heading to Deck 16. The same was true if you wanted to take the elevator down from Deck 15 during meal time. The elevators coming down from Deck 16 where the buffet is located were usually packed full with guests. If you were lucky enough to board the elevator, you were treated to stops at each and every deck on the way down.

After a couple of days of fighting this, we found ourselves walking all the way forward or aft to use those elevators or stairs, then making the long walk to our amidships stateroom. The elevator overcrowding was the only complaint we heard from other guests. The solution? Since it is unlikely that Princess is going to get out the cutting torch and add a stairwell to this brand new ship, try to book a stateroom closer to the forward or aft elevators/stairs. Problem solved.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Deluxe Balcony Stateroom (M509) was located on Marina Deck 15. When we initially boarded the ship on embarkation day, we were told that our stateroom was M509 but it was not apparent that the "M" stood for Marina Deck. Also, when we got in the elevator, there are only numbers (4-16). We did not know that Marina Deck was Deck 15. Of course, a bit of studying before we got on the ship would have solved the problem, but it was weird getting into a crowded elevator and not knowing where we were going.

At 225 sq. ft., the Deluxe Balcony Stateroom is compact but efficient. The queen-size bed has a nice padded headboard. There is a small desk with three electrical outlets (2-110 volt US-style and 1-220 Euro-style). A small mini-fridge is located next to the desk. There is a space above the mini-fridge for an ice bucket, bottled water, etc. The closet is an open design with no doors. There is a small column of shelves and the safe behind a narrow door. The only drawers are in the two nightstands.

Open design reduces the noise from slamming closet doors

Our room steward, Antonio, greeted us shortly after our arrival and kept our stateroom in good order. The only slip-up was the mini-bar setup. We requested diet Cokes to be stocked in the fridge twice and they never showed up. We finally called room service to order Cokes and Diet Cokes, but then we had to pay a delivery charge. We were a little surprised that the mini-bar was not checked and serviced every day. Once we mentioned it to Antonio, the fridge was kept stocked.

The bathroom is small, but the shower stall is comfortable enough for most American adults to utilize. The water pressure was woefully inadequate, perhaps a measure to conserve water? Shampoo and shower gel are provided in pump bottles mounted to the wall of the shower. There is no hair conditioner provided.

A large flat-screen television is mounted to the wall opposite the bed. The television programming is some of the best we have seen on any ship. There is a selection of live television (ESPN, Fox News, MSNBC, Engage, etc.), some on-demand movies, and programming from the ship's closed-circuit system, which is also available on demand. Most events held in the Princess LIVE! onboard television studio get broadcast over the ship's closed circuit system along with all port lectures.

The bed was comfortable enough with excellent linens and comfortable pillows. Most importantly, the room was quiet. We were never awakened by the ubiquitous slamming stateroom doors found on most ships. There were no annoying squeaks or rattles. The only noise we heard was an occasional chair or other equipment being moved around on Deck 16 above us. I think our room was below Horizon Bistro.

A small desk and chair is a comfortable laptop workstation

The balcony is small, but functional. There were two chairs that had a semi-recline feature and a small table. I am not sure the balcony would be a comfortable place to enjoy anything more than a sail-away cocktail or continental breakfast. But, for watching the scenery go by, it was great. Since our stateroom was located on Deck 15, underneath the Lido deck, there was a large overhang that extended out over our balcony, completely blocking any sunlight. So, if you like to catch a few rays on your balcony, don't book a stateroom on Marina Deck (15).

All in all, I would rate the Deluxe Balcony Stateroom 3.5 out of 5 stars. Possibly 4 stars if it were not located under the Lido deck.

ENTERTAINMENT

Keeping up to 3,800 guests entertained is no small task. However, Cruise Director, Lisa Ball, and her team did the job admirably. The ship has a variety of musicians performing in various venues each evening. The Princess Theater (Decks 6 & 7 forward) is the ship's large theater where all production shows are held, usually twice each evening. The theater is not as glitzy as you might find on some other large ships, but the seating is comfortable, sight lines are reasonably good, with some views of the elevated stage encumbered by fellow guests who sit in front of you. This is only an issue if you sit in the first 7 to 10 rows in front of the stage as there is very little slope. We always sit close to the stage so we can get photos for the blog.

The stage is large and has all of the modern features including rotating turntable. I did not notice any elevator platforms during the performances I attended. A live band provided backup to the recorded sound tracks, which always makes for a more lively performance. There were four vocalists in the troupe of Royal Princess Singers and Dancers and all were good. Based on the shows we attended, the dance routines seemed a bit subdued and the costumes were not as elaborate as we have seen on some other large ships. The same could be said for the set designs. We left the production shows feeling entertained, but not "wowed" by any performance.

Moroshka Folkloric Group's colorful costumes

The guest entertainers were excellent. Neil Lockwood did an excellent Elton John show that had everyone pumped up. Italian magician, David Cats, also delivered an excellent show. The best show of the cruise, in our opinion, was the "walk on" Russian Folkloric show performed by the Moroshka Folkloric group. The treated us to great music, exciting dance numbers and some colorful, traditional costumes.

The Vista Lounge is the ship's show lounge located on Deck 7 aft. This venue is smaller than Princess Theater but offers a more "up-close" experience with very comfortable sofa-style seating with tables and full bar waiter service.

Princess LIVE! is the ship's television studio which is used for a variety of game shows and contests. This is as close as you can get to being in a real live television studio audience. Princess LIVE! is used for trivia games and other guest-interactive game shows, like Marriage Match. Deputy Cruise Director Toby and Asst. Cruise Directors Nat, Gary, and David provide hilarious comedic relief for anyone attending these shows. We found Princess LIVE! to be one of the most innovative and entertaining venues we have ever experienced. Most activities held here are recorded and replayed on the ship's on-demand closed circuit television system. So, if you miss a live show, you can watch it in your stateroom later. What a great idea!

On this cruise, the destination was one of the biggest attractions. The Shore Excursion department was cranking out local excursions like crazy. They did an admirable job of getting a large number of guests on and off the ship when in port. Princess offers a vast number of shore excursions in each port, and we found the prices to be pretty typical for today's cruise ships.

For the geeks, like me, Royal Princess offers Wi-Fi internet throughout the ship. However, I am sad to say that the performance overall was disappointing. Even though the signal was available throughout most of the cruise, the speeds were very slow, even by cruise ship standards. There were several days that I was forced to take my laptop ashore and find a local coffee shop with Wi-Fi just to post our daily blog. The system on the ship just did not have the bandwidth necessary. And, it did not seem to matter where on the ship I tried to connect. Even email was a chore. I was never even able to get Gmail to come up completely. Sadly, it was one of the worse Internet connections we have seen on a newer ship. For the 11-day cruise I used a total of 850 minutes of Internet. Granted, I used a lot more Internet than the typical guest.

On the bright side, Princess has an amazing intranet that lets you do all sorts of things. You can see details on all of the ship's venues, restaurant menus, prices, etc. You can also check your stateroom account balance and it gets updated almost instantly. Accessing the ships intranet is free and is very well designed. We would take our iPad mini with us every time we left the stateroom, and we could easily see what activities were going on all over the ship. This is the best intranet we have seen on any ship so far.

FOOD & DINING

As we always like to remind our readers, reviewing food is almost impossible. Everyone has different tastes, so what we like may not be what you like. Even Rickee and I disagree on things she likes that I dislike, and vice versa. Nevertheless, no review would be complete without talking about the food and dining experience. Royal Princess offers so many choices when it comes to dining that you could literally dine in a different venue each evening of an 11-night cruise.

We toast our 20 year anniversary at Crown Grill

Overall, we found the food on Royal Princess to be good, a definite step above "average". The best meals were dinner at Crown Grill, The Wine Maker's Dinner, lunch in Horizon Court and surprisingly, the pizza at Prego's Pizzeria. The afternoon and evening salads and sandwiches at The International Cafe were also very good. And, every bread and pastry we had on this cruise was outstanding.

Symphony, Concerto and Allegro Dining Rooms

We had dinner the first night in Concerto Dining Room using our Anytime Dining option. Typically, Symphony and Concerto dining rooms are reserved for traditional dining (6:30 and 8:15) until 8:30pm when Concerto opens for Anytime Dining guests. So, we are not sure why we were able to get a table in Concerto at 7:30pm on embarkation day. Allegro, on the other hand, is reserved for Anytime Dining throughout the evening. Our table was a table for four, set up for only two people. It was located next to a window, so we had a nice view of the ocean during dinner. Service was unhurried, but not slow. There was plenty of time between courses to enjoy conversation and our glasses of wine. We never felt rushed. Food quality was good, and service was very good.

The International Cafe

This is one of the best venues on Royal Princess. The International Cafe is open 24 hours a day and is a combination coffee shop and snack bar. This was where I went for coffee every morning around 5:00 am to 5:30am. Anton and Rebecca were there each morning to take care of me. There is a charge for coffee here, but it is worth the price for the convenience and the quiet atmosphere of The Piazza at that time of the morning.

Horizon Court/Bistro

The ship's Lido buffet is divided into two distinct, but similar, sections. Horizon Court and Horizon Bistro are located on Deck 16 with the "Bistro" being located just forward of the "Court". You literally walk from one into the other, often without even knowing it. Both have buffet-style, self-serve lines with a wide variety of food choices throughout the day. Continental breakfast is available here as early as 5am with full buffet breakfast beginning at 6am. Lunch is served most days at 11:30am and a sub-section of Horizon Court also serves a casual buffet dinner beginning at 5:30pm. Coffee and tea stations are open 24 hours a day.

Princess Cruises has taken guest safety very seriously with the installation of hand-washing stations at the entrances to Horizon Court/Bistro. This is in addition to numerous Purell hand-sanitizing dispensers located throughout the food service areas (and the entire ship).

The dining room decor is slightly different between Horizon Court and Horizon Bistro, with the Bistro being a tad more upscale. All tables are set with linen napkins and silverware in both venues, a welcome upgrade from most mainstream cruise ship buffets. Waiters are on hand to take drink orders, or bring water, tea or coffee. And, service on our visits was excellent. Even more notable is that the coffee served here in the mornings is not only drinkable, it is actually pretty good!

Lots of outdoor dining tables on Deck 16 aft and amidships

As with most buffets, traffic flow can be cumbersome as guests move in different directions trying to find all of the different offerings. Some items are duplicated on port and starboard sides of the serving lines, but then there are some items that may only be served on one or the other. For example, if you want roasted veggies or Gyros, that is only served on the port side of the Bistro forward. Mexican, Asian and Indian dishes were available each day. And, rotisserie chicken is being roasted fresh, right in front of you at Horizon Bistro's forward port side entrance. There are carving stations at different locations with a variety of meats. Of course, there are salads, breads, fresh fruit and desserts. I did not see an omelet station at breakfast, but they did have fried eggs, scrambled, soft-boiled and even breakfast burritos.

Fresh Gyro being sliced in Horizon Bistro

There are several two-top tables and dining "bars" where singles can sit and enjoy their meal without taking up an entire table. There are also a large number of outdoor dining tables set for each meal, perhaps more than we have seen on any ship to date. So, if you enjoy dining al fresco, Royal Princess is the place to be. We found the food quality to be as good or better than any cruise ship buffet. And, here is a little detail that Princess has figured out. Princess has wisely replaced the 'always clogged' salt shakers you typically find on outdoor tables with packets of salt and pepper. Finally! Sure, the packets are cheesy, but they work!

Fondues and Crab Shack

These two dining experiences are actually held on alternate evenings in a special section of Horizon Court (Deck 16 aft). Reservations are required, as is a $20 per person cover charge. Fondues offers a three-course meal with the highlight being the melted cheese fondue pot for dipping bread, chicken or sausage. We dined in Fondues on the last night of the cruise and found it to be a unique experience that we can recommend to others. You can read more about our meal at Fondues on our cruise blog.

We did not have the opportunity to try Crab Shack. Neither of us are huge shellfish fans, so it was not for us. However, Crab Shack offers guests a three-course meal.

Alfredo's Pizzeria

Alfredo's is a sit-down, full-service restaurant serving handmade pizza, calzone and other Italian specialties. The emphasis here is on the upscale pizzas. We had lunch here one day and found the pizzas to be good, fresh, hot and crispy. There is no service charge to dine in Alfredo's and we were surprised that we never saw the restaurant crowded. You can read about our meal at Alfredo's on our cruise blog.

Sabatini's

Sabatini's is Princess' upscale Italian-themed restaurant. We made reservations in Sabatini's for our second night on board Royal Princess. We arrived at 7:30pm and were surprised to find the restaurant only about half occupied. Unfortunately, all of the window tables were occupied, so we were seated at a window with a view of the Reception Desk, a bit strange. It costs $25 per person to dine in Sabatini's and reservations are required. The atmosphere alone is worth the cover charge, but honestly, the food was not as good as what we had in the Crown Grill.

Crown Grill

Probably the best meal we had on Royal Princess was dinner at Crown Grill (Deck 7 aft). I can't think of a better venue on a cruise ship to celebrate a 20-year anniversary. This dark, classy, steakhouse is a bargain at $25 per person. The scallop starter alone would cost $12 at any restaurant on land. My Rib Eye steak was massive and perfectly cooked. The steak was flavorful enough that the wine reduction it was resting on only detracted from the flavor. Rickee's filet was a fist-sized chunk of fork-tender beef that, too, was cooked perfectly. The garlicky creamed spinach was seasoned perfectly. We decided to skip dessert, but were presented with a special anniversary cake along with a "Happy Anniversary" song from our excellent waitress, Grace. A cruise aboard Royal Princess is not complete without at least one visit to Crown Grill.

Ultimate Balcony Dining

Princess offers an evening meal served course-by-course, on your stateroom balcony. The cost for this is $100 per person and is considered by many to be the ultimate in intimate private dining. We did not avail ourselves of this simply because we felt like our balcony would be a bit cramped to enjoy it. This must be reserved in advance. For more information, click here.

Wine Maker's Dinner

The Wine Maker's Dinner is a special wine-pairing meal available to only a select few guests who make reservations in advance. Basically, you put your name on a list and they will let you know if you are able to get seats at this very limited table. The cost for this special meal is $40 per person, and a real bargain for what it delivers. You can read all about our meal at Wine Maker's on our cruise blog.

Ocean Terrace Seafood

The Ocean Terrace seafood bar (Deck 6 overlooking The Piazza) on the Royal Princess offers a variety of seafood priced a la carte. Here you will find sushi, sashimi, ahi tuna, oyster shooters and king crab.

Prego's Pizzeria

Prego's is Royal Princess' pizza-by-the-slice joint located on Deck 16 (Lido deck). But hold on, this isn't the typical greasy, cold, tasteless pizza you typically find at a cruise ship pool, this is the real deal. In fact, I liked Prego's pizza better than Alfredo's! The large slices were hot, cheesy and delicious. They make the dough fresh every day, every pizza is made by hand, and they have pepperoni, something you won't find in Alfredo's! I could not walk by Prego's without grabbing a slice.

The best pizza on the ship is at Prego's! Who'd a thunk?

The Trident Grill

Less impressive than Prego's is Royal Princess' burger joint, Trident Grill. I tried two burgers here (on different days) and both seemed a bit dry. And, there were no Onion Rings, a personal pet peeve of mine. But, admittedly, I am a bit of a burger snob. So, if the long line is any indication, a lot of guests seem to be enjoying their offerings. Trident Grill is on Deck 16 (Lido) amidships starboard side.

Gelato

Gelato is Royal Princess' ice cream parlor located on Deck 5 right on The Piazza. Of course, you can get a free soft-serve cone at Swirl's up on Deck 16, but you won't get the same creamy Italian-style gelato that you get here. Several flavors are available, including my personal favorite, Dulce de Leche. You can get three dips for $2.75, a bargain price. A variety of sundaes are also available for $2.75 each. I just wish they offered a single dip for, say $1.50. I rarely need three full dips of gelato. Nevertheless, the gelato served here is delicious.

Room service

Princess offers room service 24 hours a day with a decent menu of sandwiches, salads, soup and desserts. Food is complimentary, but there is a nominal delivery charge on all orders.

BARS & LOUNGES

There is no shortage of watering holes on Royal Princess. During our 11-night cruise, we had the opportunity to visit most of them at least once. Overall, bar service was very good throughout the ship. We never had to wait long for a waiter/ess to take our order or deliver our cocktail. As far as drink prices, they are pretty much in line with other major cruise lines. A Dewar's White Label is $6.25, a glass of sparkling wine can be enjoyed for $7.25, a glass of wine at Vines will range from $7.25 to $12 a glass, and, a Pina Colada will set you back about $8.95. Of course, these prices do not include the 15% gratuity which is added automatically. The pours were more generous than what we experienced on MSC Divina earlier this year, for about the same price per drink, making Princess a better value. The frozen drinks and designer cocktails were all delicious. We did not have a bad drink on Royal Princess.

Vines (5)

Vines is Royal Princess' wine bar which quickly became one of our favorite spots for a pre-dinner glass of wine. This is one of the classiest lounges on the ship with dark wood accents highlighted by a wall of wine bottles. The real kicker is that they offer 26 different wines by the glass. And, to enhance the enjoyment of your glass of wine, they serve tapas each evening with every wine order. Vines also is a full-service bar capable of serving any cocktail you desire. Service from our waitress, Sivka, was excellent. Vines is located on Deck 5, just off The Piazza.

Vines quickly became one of our favorite spots

The International Cafe (5)

Yes, this is more than an early morning coffee shop. International Cafe also has an adjacent bar that is very popular in the evenings. The location just off The Piazza is probably the reason. You can enjoy your favorite drink, and enjoy the entertainment at the same time.

Bellini's (6)

Bellini's is a small, but very elegant lounge on Deck 6 overlooking The Piazza. In addition to being a full-service bar, they offer a wide variety of bellini-inspired drinks.

Club 6 (6)

Located on Deck 6 forward, Club 6 is a full-service bar right next to the Casino and just aft of Princess Theater, making it the perfect place for a drink before or after going to the evening show. The decor here is more contemporary, an apparent attempt to appeal to the younger crowd. Club 6 also becomes the ship's disco late each evening. This is the "hip" bar on Royal Princess.

Club 6 is the "hippest" bar on Royal Princess

Crooners (7)

Located on Deck 7 overlooking The Piazza, Crooners is a full-service piano bar that is a little more subdued than International Cafe or Bellini's.

The Wheelhouse (7)

After Vines, The Wheelhouse was our next favorite lounge. Located on Deck 7 aft, The Wheelhouse is positioned at the entrance to Crown Grill, making it the logical place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail before your Crown reservation. The Wheelhouse decor is dark, warm and the large leather chairs swallow you up in a comfort that you don't want to end. There is piano entertainment here in the evenings which is much less harsh that what you might experience in Vines (because Vines is right off The Piazza). So, for a quiet, classy place to enjoy a drink, The Wheelhouse is your best bet.

Princess LIVE! (7)

There is a bar located just outside of Princess LIVE! with some very unique and creative seating. Other than the shows being held in the Princess LIVE! studio, there is no entertainment here, making this a peaceful place for a drink. The bar also has some sweet treats available for the taking throughout the day.

The Seaview Bar (16)

Located poolside on Deck 16 (Lido), the Seaview Bar is positioned right next to the port side Sky Walk. For an interesting experience, try walking over the sky walk and looking down after a couple of drinks.

The Outrigger Bar (16)

If you go all the way aft on Deck 16, behind Horizon Court, you will find one of the best kept secrets on Royal Princess. The Outrigger is a margarita bar with 8 different types of margaritas, including one that has chili peppers! Bring a friend and share a 32oz margarita. Complimentary chips, salsa and guacamole are served with drink orders. The Mexican sailaway from Tallin was a bit weird, but fun nonetheless. Since the bar is located all the way aft, you have an incredible view of the ocean Royal Princess leaves behind.

Chips, salsa and guacamole served at Outrigger Bar

The Mermaid's Tail (16)

Probably the official "pool bar", the Mermaid's Tail is located on Deck 16 amidship (Lido deck) in between The Trident Grill and Prego's Pizzeria.

The Retreat Bar (17)

This bar is located in the adult-only Retreat on Deck 17 forward.

SUMMARY

A 20th anniversary only comes along once. So, when selecting a cruise ship to celebrate such a special occasion, you had better make the right choice. I don't think we could have picked a better ship than Royal Princess to celebrate our 20 years together.

We were concerned that with 3,800 guests on board, the ship would be crowded and we would spend a lot of time in long lines, or looking for a place to sit and enjoy a drink. We struggled with the crowds and lines on MSC Divina earlier this year. However, those fears were soon put to rest. We never had a problem finding a place on Royal Princess to "get away" from the crowd. And, the only line we stood in was when tendering in Stockholm.

Royal Princess is a beautiful ship with an excellent crew. We would not hesitate to recommend this ship to anyone looking for a wonderful "big ship" experience.

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/17/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/17/14

MV Voyager Iceland and British Isles Cruise

We spend 13 nights aboard Voyages of Discovery MV Voyager on an Iceland and British Isles cruise

Itinerary: Portsmouth, At Sea, Lerwick, At Sea, Heimaey, Reykjavik, Ísafjördur, Húsavík, Djúpivogur, At Sea, Torshavn, Kirkwall, At Sea, Portsmouth

Voyages of Discovery is a single-ship cruise line owned and operated by All-Discovery Cruising, the same company that owns and operates Swan Hellenic and Hebridean Island Cruises. The three brands share similarities, but there are also distinct differences. Last year we had the opportunity to sail on Swan Hellenic's Minerva, so we can definitely draw distinctions between it and Voyager. Swan Hellenic is more inclusive in that at each port the ship offers included shore excursions that are built into the price of the cruise. On Voyages of Discovery, there is a more "a' la carte" approach to the cruise. Shore excursions are not included in the price; guests can select, and pay for, only those excursions they wish to join. This makes VOD a value for those travelers who prefer to "do their own thing" in most ports.

PRE-CRUISE

Since our cruise departs from Portsmouth, we flew non-stop from DFW airport to London Heathrow aboard one of British Airways aging 747s. The Business Class seats were very comfortable and the service on board the flight was excellent, as always. Whenever we have the option of flying with BA over American Airlines, we take it.

We decided to spend three nights in London prior to transferring to Portsmouth. We were very fortunately to be invited to stay at The Milestone Hotel in London. To read our review of The Milesteone, click here.

THE SHIP

MV Voyager is a bit larger than Minerva and can carry up to 540 guests compared to Minerva's 350. There were 444 guests on our Voyager sailing.

The 15,396 ton vessel was built in 1990 and has retained much of the "charm" of that era. The Reception Desk and Shore Excursion Desk are located on Deck 3 midship. Deck 4 is strictly staterooms and the medical facility which is staffed with a doctor. Deck 6 is where you will find the Spa and Beauty Salon. The Veranda (Lido) Restaurant is located on Deck 7 as is the swimming pool. There are suites located forward on Deck 7. On Deck 8 you will find the Sunset Club, a small fitness center and a massive sun deck.

You may notice that I skipped Deck 5. That deck deserves its own paragraph because most public spaces are located on this deck. First, there is the Discovery Restaurant located aft on Deck 5. Moving forward, there is The Library. Moving forward again is Scott's Lounge, the ship's busiest bar/lounge. Continuing forward, the Darwin Lounge is the "showroom" and where all lectures are held. Then, forward from Darwin Lounge you will find Lookout Lounge.

This has to be one of the most unique layouts of public spaces I have ever seen on a ship. You basically have to walk through Scott's Lounge to get to Darwin Lounge, then through Darwin Lounge to get to the Lookout Lounge. This becomes an issue when you want to visit the Lookout Lounge and there is a lecture or other performance going on in Darwin.

There is an outer promenade on Deck 6 but it does not circumnavigate the ship. The forward portion of Deck 6 is reserved for staterooms/suites. Also, a very large diesel generator (about the size of a shipping container) has been mounted to the aft section of Deck 6, dramatically reducing its space. The generator is an eyesore and should be disguised in some manner.

The pool on Deck 7 is located amidships and also has its own Pool Bar. This is a nice-sized pool along with two hot tubs. There are also plenty of chairs and tables where guests can sit and enjoy a cocktail; however, there are no sun loungers on the Pool Deck, only tables and chairs. The port side of the Pool Deck is designated as a smoking area.

There are two stairways leading from the Pool Deck up to the Sun Deck. This is the top deck of Voyager and has expansive space available for soaking up the sun, of which there was little on our cruise. The astroturf Sun Deck is also a great place for viewing the scenery as there is ample room for hundreds of guests to stand at the rails while the ship sails into or out of ports. If you decide to stand at the very front of the Sun Deck, overlooking the bow, be aware that the ship's powerful horn is just a few feet behind you. It can deliver a deafening blast.

Sun Deck is popular as Voyager sails into Heimaey

On our 13-night cruise, there was only one port that required the use of the ship's tenders. The ship's smaller size allows it to fit into more ports than larger ships. Tender operations took place on Deck 2 and were handled very efficiently. In fact, all disembarkation at ports was very efficient and we never found ourselves standing in line to leave the ship.

Voyager tender in use at Djúpivogur, Iceland

The ship is equipped with Wi-Fi service at very reasonable prices. There are three Internet plans available: 2 hours for £9 (approx. $13 US), 4 hours for £12.60 (approx. $18 US) and 12 hours for £21(approx. $32 US). The 12-hour plan gets the per-minute rate as low as $.04 cents. That is about as cheap as you will find on any cruise ship. Wi-Fi was readily accessible in all lounges and restaurants. I was even able to get a connection from my Deck 3 stateroom, much to my surprise. Not so surprising was the lackluster speed, but it was very usable for email and some web browsing. Connections were unavailable in some locations. Nevertheless, I would say, on our cruise, I was able to get a connection 85% of the time, which is not bad considering that we were sailing close to the Arctic Circle for a few days.

It should be noted that Voyages of Discovery is a British company. Also, the majority of their clientele are British. The onboard currency is the British Pound. For Americans traveling on Voyager, you must remember that when you see prices on a bar menu or shore excursion form that the prices are in Pounds, not dollars. A simple way to estimate the cost in dollars quickly is to multiply by 1.67*. Therefore, a £3.75 cocktail is going to cost approximately $6.25 US.

Prices are reflected in pounds not dollars

* Currency exchange rates change daily. This was the exchange rate at the time of our cruise.

Because this is a British cruise line, all announcements, literature, daily programs, etc., are in English. The Voyager Today daily newsletter is delivered to the cabin each evening and is very well designed and concise. The program gives an overview of the daily activities, arrival/departure times (on port days), mealtimes, shore excursion departure times, etc.

Unlike on many of the larger cruise ships, on Voyager you will hear very few announcements over the ship's PA system. On port days, an announcement is made to let independent travelers (those not taking a ship's shore excursion) know when they are able to disembark. The Captain will make an announcement from the Bridge each day around noon to update guests on weather and sea conditions. And, that is about it for announcements.

On our sailing, the majority of guests were older British couples. There were a few Americans, a couple of Canadians and a handful of Australians. The majority were probably in the over-60 crowd, but there were a few younger travelers. We saw no children on board, and frankly, they would probably be bored on this ship. There are no kids' programs that we are aware of.

Dress Code

As on most ships, the dress code during the day (before 6pm) is casual. Many wear shorts or jeans. Swimsuits are not allowed in the restaurants. With the exception of two "formal" nights, every night on board Voyager was considered "smart casual". On formal nights, the majority of the gentlemen wore tuxedos or dark suits and a few (myself included) wore dress slacks, sport coat and tie. Ladies wore formal gowns or cocktail dresses. On smart casual evenings, gentlemen are asked not to wear jeans, and a shirt with a collar is requested.

ACCOMMODATIONS

At 135sq. ft., our Cat. DB cabin is typical of cruise ship accommodations of the era when Voyager was constructed (1990). When we first entered our cabin, it was like stepping back in time. Back "in the day," a cruise ship cabin was simply a place to sleep and get dressed. There were no mini-bars, no balconies, no interactive televisions, no artwork on the walls and no Wi-Fi. Cruise lines wanted guests in the lounges, mingling with other guests, buying drinks or gambling in the casino. In today's cruise market, these cabins work well for cruise lines like Voyages of Discovery that appeal to those focused more on destination immersion than lounging in a stateroom (as we did today). Category DB cabins are in the value category of accommodations. However, Voyager does offer junior suites, suites and balcony staterooms, but at a higher cost. For the most value conscious, they also offer inside cabins.

The cabin, with its mauve walls, is "cozy" to say the least. Two twin beds are positioned on the outside wall of the cabin separated by a single bed table with drawer and shelf and a lamp. The mattresses are a bit firm, in fact, they are downright hard. If you like a really firm mattress, you will love these. Rickee inquired about something to be placed on the mattress to create a softer surface and our cabin steward did add something on top of the mattress but it did not make much difference in the firmness. There is storage underneath the beds for luggage. We were able to store our two large duffels and two roll-aboards there. Each bed has a single pillow, but additional pillows are provided in the closet. Overhead lighting is of the fluorescent variety and is limited to three locations in the cabin: outside the bathroom door, over the desk and over the beds. Some of the bulbs create a blue light and some a yellow light with both colors of lighting being present in the same fixture. During daylight hours, we kept the curtains over the portholes open to let in as much light as possible.

The small desk is large enough for my MacBook laptop, but not much more. Cameras and video gear were relegated to a shelf above the dresser. The desk does have two electrical outlets: one a British 3-prong 220v and one is a European-style 2-prong 220v. Fortunately, I have adapters for both. I obtained my British adapters during our Swan Hellenic sailing last year. There is a set of audio VOX units in a recharge base that must be unplugged to be able to use the Euro-style outlet. The VOX units are provided for shore excursion use and are a great feature. There are five drawers in the small desk that I found useful for storing small items.

Two outlets next to desk and audio VOX units

Across the room there is a 3-drawer wooden dresser with a small shelf on top. Above it is another slightly larger shelf which is where I was able to store my camera/video gear. There is a US-style 2-prong 110v outlet here that can be used to plug in a camera battery or cell phone charger. The dresser drawers are fairly large and hold quite a bit. A woefully underpowered hair dryer is mounted to the upper shelf unit as is a non-functioning sound system (I can only assume that this is no longer used). A 15" flat-screen television, obviously not a 1989 feature of this cabin, is mounted to the wall next to the dresser. A small remote control operates the television and the programming offered is quite complete. Fox News, BBC, CNBC, Sky News, MSNBC, CNN International are available, along with five CCTV movie channels with movies that change each day. However, during our sailing, some of the movies were repeated.

The closet has limited space, but when combined with the dresser, was adequate for our 13-night sailing. Two rows of hangers are arranged facing out instead of sideways, obviously to conserve space. There are some shelves inside the closet also that offer quite a bit of additional storage. There are two large hooks on the wall across from the closet which are useful for hanging backpacks or jackets. There is £25 deposit required for the key to access the safe which brings us to another topic: keys. The Passenger Cruise Card that you receive upon check-in is not your room key, which is a separate older style plastic key. So, if you opt for the safe key, you will have three different cards/keys to keep up with.

The bathroom is small as is the shower stall. You most likely will have the shower curtain cling to you at some point during your shower. A small shelf in the shower holds the miniature bottles of shampoo, conditioner and shower gel, but the placement of this shelf next to the shower controls makes accessing the products clumsy. Our bathroom sink had a couple of chunks missing from the porcelain, but otherwise, everything worked as it should. Bathroom storage is limited to four narrow shelves on the wall and there is some space on a shelf under the sink. However, if you are over 6' tall, you should be warned of the metal door frame above the bathroom door. I whacked my head a few times on the low door frame before I finally learned to duck when exiting the bathroom. To dispel one Internet review about the bath towels being old and frayed, ours appeared brand new and were very soft and nice. We can only assume that they have been recently replaced. There is a full-length mirror on the outside wall of the bathroom which comes in handy when using the hair dryer.

Before our cruise, we did some research on other websites and were aware of the issues with the HVAC mounted in the ceiling of the cabin. Apparently, originally the temperature control knob graphic showing HOT and COLD was somehow reversed. The farther guests turned the knob toward COLD, the hotter the room became! VOD has apparently addressed this by placing a very large and prominent label to indicate the proper way for the knob to be turned. Our control knob was a bit stiff and took a fair amount of force to turn, but the system worked well.

Our cabin has been kept immaculately clean by our excellent cabin attendant, Richard. He is one of the best we have had on any ship. What makes him better than any other? For one thing, if we leave our cabin at 6:30pm, by the time we return at 7:30pm, the room has been cleaned and beds turned down. Richard works alone, as far as we could tell. He is always smiling, friendly, and if we asked for something, he took care of it. He was sort of like a butler, but without the tuxedo!

We read another review on the Internet about the unbearable mechanical noise in the aft Deck 3 cabins. Our cabin is technically "aft" as it is located right across from the aft elevators and staircase. However, there are several cabins farther aft. In our cabin, there was a constant drone of the engines when the ship is underway, but it is far from unbearable. Since it is a constant noise, you sort of tune it out after a while. I never had any sounds wake me up or keep me from sleeping. We could occasionally hear the television from the cabin next to us, but I suspect that is because they were hard of hearing and had it cranked up pretty loud. The cabin doors are well designed and close quietly so slamming doors are not an issue.

Overall, the our cabin is a reflection of the entire ship, badly in need of a refurb.

FOOD AND DINING

Taste is so subjective that it is almost impossible to give a fair review of food. We have said it over and over again: what some people love, other people find objectionable. That said, I think it is fair to say that the dining on Voyager is tailored to British tastes. However, there are plenty of menu items with which Americans will be familiar and comfortable.

The main dining room is Discovery Restaurant located on Deck 5 aft. This is the largest dining venue and consists of tables for four and six, with a few tables set for seven. Across from Discovery is Explorer's Restaurant. We did find one table for two in Explorer's. The Discovery is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day. Breakfast features a buffet which is set up in the elevated center of the restaurant with scrambled eggs, bacon, porridge (I told you it was British), fruit and pastries. Eggs made to order are available from the waiter. Lunch and dinner are full service with menus that change daily. Voyager has an open seating dining policy which does away with the two-seating dinner concept. In theory, guests can dine whenever they wish during regular restaurant hours. We noticed the Discovery filling up pretty quickly with few seats left by 7:00pm.

There is an alternative to Discovery and that is The Veranda Restaurant on Deck 7. This buffet-style Lido restaurant offers the same basic menu as Discovery, but in a more casual and relaxed setting. The Veranda can also get crowded, especially when the outside aft deck is closed due to cold or windy weather conditions. On our cruise, it was too cold to dine al fresco. This takes away seating for about 70 people who would normally dine outdoors. We saw several people taking food from Veranda up to Deck 8 where they sat and ate in the Sunset Club.

Afternoon Tea is conducted each day in both Discovery and Veranda, with Discovery feeling a bit more formal. Other than the tea, which is poured by waiters, finger sandwiches, cakes, scones and bread puddings are self-serve buffet style. They have a sandwich/panini bar where you can construct your own sandwich or panini, which is a good option. On most days, there was an ice cream station in Discovery and one day they featured waffles with ice cream.

There are late night "Light Bites" served in Scott's Lounge each evening and these vary. A limited room service menu is available with sandwiches....

On at least three days, a light lunch was offered in Scott's Lounge. One day they had a Mongolian stir-fry which was excellent. This is a great idea and one that I wish they had every day. It takes a great deal of pressure off the Discovery and Veranda restaurants.

There is no "early-riser" breakfast; however, there is a 24-hour coffee and tea station set up in The Veranda Restaurant aft section.

As for food quality, I would have to say it is middle-of-the-road, somewhat typical cruise ship fare. There were a few standouts during our 13- night cruise. A very nice venison, the green curry chicken at lunch one day was excellent, and my fish and chips were very good. Rickee's fish, however, was undercooked. On two evenings I had the "always available" strip steak and it was good and cooked perfectly. Overall, however, the food lacked seasoning. I suspect this may be because of the older clientele. We found ourselves reaching for the salt and pepper shakers regularly.

BARS AND LOUNGES

Scott's Lounge is open all day long and quickly became our favorite spot on Voyager to enjoy a drink. The leather seating is the most comfortable of any lounge and the bar staff are very accommodating. Scott's is almost always open, too, whereas the other lounges had varying hours of operation. We never stayed up late enough to make it to the Sunset Club on Deck 8.

The Darwin Lounge is really more of a theater than a lounge. This is where all lectures and evening shows are held. The seating in Darwin is set up theater-style with some padded banquette seating along each side of the room, some of which was slightly elevated.

The Lookout Lounge is all the way forward on Deck 5 and is a very nice space, but it is overtaken by the bridge players on most days and most evenings. We visited the Lookout Lounge on several days, but never saw the bar open for business. The seating here is most uncomfortable. Boxy seats have little padding and are not conducive to long stays.

This Sunset Club is a bit of a mystery to me. It is on Deck 8 forward, one deck above The Veranda Restaurant. It is only open late at night, sort of like a disco. I never stayed up late enough to check it out, but I question how many of the guests (most much older than I) stay up that late and frequent this lounge. It also has the same uncomfortable boxy seats that are in the Lookout Lounge. This seems to me to be the perfect space to be converted into a chic alternate dining restaurant. But, what do I know?

We felt like the drinks were competitively priced. A Johnny Walker Black Label was £3.85 (about $6.25 US). However, they are not very generous pours. Expect a single jigger for that price.

There were a few times when bar waitresses seemed to ignore us, but after the first few days, the service seemed to improve dramatically. Perhaps the waitresses were just boarding the ship in Portsmouth and jet-lagged like we were. In any case, after the first couple of days, the bar staff seemed to "come alive" and were very friendly and service was excellent.

ENTERTAINMENT

Voyages of Discovery prides itself on the educational nature of their cruises. On our sailing, there were four lecturers and all were very good. There were multiple lectures conducted on days at sea, and occasionally, lectures would also be conducted on port days when scheduling allowed. Lectures were very well attended and the ship also broadcast the lectures live on channel 18 on the closed circuit television so they could be enjoyed in the cabins. Channels 15, 16 & 17 would replay recent lectures on a loop, so if you missed a lecture live, you could always catch it later. Mo Holland is the ship's destination and port expert and conducted port lectures on every port we visited. Mo is a real treasure. Not only is she filled with great information, but she has a sharp wit and easy delivery.

In the evenings, guests were entertained by a variety of musicians and singers in Scott's Lounge including: Voyager Duo, Catalin and Liviu; vocalists, Rachelle Kruger and Paul Burley; resident pianist, Tutz; Rod & Co; dance hosts, Christopher & Piret; Andrei & Luci; and the multi-talented Voyager Theatre Company including Cruise Director, Gerry Atkins.

Rachelle Kruger entertains in Scott's Lounge

There was a show in Darwin Lounge nearly every evening and the level of talent for a ship this size was decent. The lounge itself has limited sight lines, so arriving early and getting a seat near the front is advised. Most of the music is recorded, but there are three band members that back up the taped sound and the vocals are live. I counted two male dancers and four female dancers and all were very talented. I heard nothing but praise from everyone about the entertainment and it was well deserved.

Late each evening, the Sunset Club came alive with music and dancing. Various members of the Entertainment team, such as Paul, Keli-Ann, Amy, Lauren or Rachelle, would provide vocals or recorded music for dancing would be played. Sometimes there was a theme night, such as ABBA or Beatles music, or concerts would be broadcast on the large TV screens there. Activities at the Sunset Club did not begin until at least 9:00pm or later.

SUMMARY

Of the three sister cruise lines, Voyages of Discovery would likely be considered the "value" line. Swan Hellenic (MV Minerva) is a bit smaller and more inclusive with all shore excursion included in the cruise fare. Hebridean Island Cruises goes a step further and includes all beverages. All of the cruise lines, including Voyages of Discovery, now include gratuities in the cruise fare. Having sailed on Minerva and now Voyager, there are definitely similarities. Voyager offers excellent itineraries, a great lecture series and some very attractive pricing. The ability to pick and choose shore excursions makes it a great choice for those who like to go with the crowd, or strike out on their own. For more information, contact your travel agent, or go to us.VoyagesOfDiscovery.com.

PICKS AND PANS

Picks:

Great Itineraries
Warm and inviting crew
Very good entertainment
Superb housekeeping
Excellent shore excursion offerings
Footloose excursion program
Very organized tender operations
Wi-Fi is reasonably priced and performs adequately
Extensive and informative lecture series
Good value

Pans:

The ship is showing its age and is in desperate need of a refurbishment
Lounges and restaurants can get very crowded
Generator on deck 6 needs to be disguised
Hard mattresses
Uncomfortable chairs in Lookout Lounge and Sunset Club
Lookout Lounge is under-utilized and hard to get to

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 4/26/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 4/26/14

MSC Divina Cruise Review

Our second sailing with MSC Cruises reveals many improvements over our first sailing and one of the most beautiful ships on which we have sailed!

Itinerary: Miami, At Sea, Falmouth, Grand Cayman, Cozumel, At Sea, Great Stirrup Cay, Miami

There appears to be a race to see who can build the biggest cruise ship. Royal Caribbean is currently in the lead with Allure/Oasis of the Seas which can carry 6,296 (max capacity) guests and 2,300 crew. Depending on which chart you look at, MSC Divina comes in at around 10th place with a max guest capacity of around 4,300. But make no mistake, with a 4,000+ guest capacity, MSC Divina is BIG, really BIG. Many cruise enthusiasts are still unaware of MSC Cruises---after all, they only operate one cruise ship in the Caribbean. MSC Cruises may have a smaller fleet (currently 12 ships) than the North America household name cruise lines (Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Princess, NCL), but the parent company, MSC, operates more than 450 ships worldwide! MSC stands for Mediterranean Shipping Company and they just happen to be the second largest operator of shipping container vessels in the world. MSC Cruises has plenty of muscle and the company appears to be flexing it at the moment.

A cruise ship's appeal goes far above the tonnage figures and the number of guests or crew. As we set out to spend a week aboard MSC Divina, we had two burning questions we wanted answered: 1) What differentiates MSC Cruises from the rest of the mass-market cruise products? 2) Has MSC improved since our last cruise aboard MSC Orchestra in 2010? To be fair, it should be noted that we approach an assignment from a perspective of two mature adults sailing without children. A family may come away with a completely different opinion. And, there was no shortage of families sailing with small children, many in strollers, on our voyage. So, our first observation is that this is a family-friendly cruise line. In fact, family cruising is encouraged by MSC Cruises' "KIds Sail Free" promotion.

But, before we get ahead of ourselves, let's take a step back to the beginning of our MSC Cruises' voyage. We took advantage of MSC Cruises' Online Check-In through their website. Therefore, we received no documents in the mail. Everything was printed from the MSC website, even the luggage tags! I was initially concerned that the luggage tags would not survive the abuse of American Airlines' baggage handlers, so after folding them as instructed, I covered both sides in clear packaging tape then stapled and taped the tags to our checked bags. This method worked and the tags did survive.

When we arrived at the Port of Miami, a porter cheerfully took our bags and loaded them onto a luggage cart. I always tip the porters in Miami. I just think it is a good practice. Upon entering the port terminal, we went through Security then up the escalator to the check-in counters. We arrived at around 1:15pm and breezed through check-in in under five minutes. MSC has plenty of staff on hand to deal with the crowd. We were given our stateroom keys and invited to board the vessel. Of course, this means going through the Welcome Photo line where the ship's photographers take a photo of guests standing in front of a picture of the ship. We stopped buying these photos years ago. But, they make great souvenirs for most cruisers. We boarded MSC Divina on Deck 7 aft and were told that our stateroom would not be ready until 2:00pm and that lunch was being served in the buffet on Deck 14. We were lucky enough to find an elevator with room for us and our roll-aboard luggage, so off we went.

When we arrived at the Calumet and Manitou buffets on Deck 14, we discovered that they were pretty much laid out as we remembered from MSC Orchestra. The Calumet is just forward of the aft elevator/stair lobby on Deck 14 while Manitou is all the way aft. We had just enough time for a quick snack before heading down to Deck 12 to check out our cabin.

Accommodations

When we arrived at our balcony stateroom (#12230), we were pleased to see that MSC has updated the accommodations over what we remembered from our previous MSC cruise. The room has a much more logical and usable layout and includes a nice-sized desk. When we arrived, the beds were separated into two twin beds, but this was later rectified by our excellent stateroom attendant, Putra.

We were pleased to see the same sliding door to the balcony. The closet is large enough for a 7-night cruise for two people, even though we are not crazy about the cheap plastic 'captive' hangers offered. One-third of the closet consists of a chest with 6 drawers and a couple of shelves. The drawers are dampened so that they do not slam shut, a nice touch. The flat-screen LCD television is in a good location above the desk and is visible from anywhere in the stateroom. A small mini-bar/fridge is located under the desk and is stocked with soft drinks and snacks (for a fee). The mattress could be more comfortable, as could the lumpy pillows. And, even though there was a non-smoking sign prominently displayed on the desk, several cigarette burns were visible on the carpeting and there was an ashtray attached to the wall by the toilet in the bathroom.

MSC should consider a carpet with a pattern design that would work to hide permanent stains and burns like this. The solid gold carpeting shows everything. The large sofa was comfortable and quite usable, as was the oval coffee table. However, a large pyramid-shaped pizza delivery ad took up most of the space on the coffee table. We finally moved it next to the television to free up space on the table. A small, padded cube slips nicely under the desk and can be used as a seat when working at the desk or as seating at the coffee table. The cube is much better than a chair since, when not in use, it can be stowed out of sight and out of the way. The biggest improvement was in the bathroom. The shower curtain has been replaced with a very nice, split shower door design. The shower itself is roomy and everything works as it should. While far from "upscale", the bathroom does look much nicer than what we remembered. Bathroom amenities are limited to liquid soap and shampoo from dispensers. If you want a bar of soap, you had better bring your own. Also, there is no hair conditioner or body lotion. Even though our stateroom was located very close to an elevator lobby, we found it to be reasonably quiet. Noisy (and rude) people standing in the hall yacking it up late at night could be heard through the door, but the doors themselves are well designed and do not slam shut when left to close on their own, something other cruise lines should figure out how to copy. Overall, we would rate the balcony stateroom at 3 out of 5. A more comfortable mattress and burn-free carpet would get a 4 out of 5 rating.

As Rickee was unpacking our bags, I wasted no time in signing up for the ship's Wi-Fi Internet service. I booted up my MacBook and opened Safari (web browser) and the New Account form appeared as well as the screen showing all of the different Internet plans offered. I selected the 8 hr plan for $149.90 in hopes that eight hours would be enough for all of my blogging duties and checking email during the seven-day cruise. The signup process was very well designed, logical and fast.

MSC Internet rates are competitive with other cruise lines. The 24hr program gets the per minute rate down to 20 cents, one of the cheapest you will find on a cruise ship. When we sailed on MSC Orchestra back in 2009, the Internet service was virtually unusable. In fact, signs in the Internet cafe apologizing for the system were prominently displayed each day. Well, MSC has obviously addressed that issue. The Wi-Fi on Divina is one of the best I have used on any cruise ship. Not only are the connections reliable and fast, but MSC has the best user interface of any Internet service I have found on a cruise ship. A browser screen counts down how much time you have left in your account and a big LOGOUT button makes disconnecting simple. The signals were available in our stateroom and every public room I visited. Cisco Wi-Fi repeaters/antennas could be seen mounted in hallways throughout the ship. My only complaint is that the Internet account only applies to Wi-Fi using your own equipment. If you visit the ship's Internet cafe on Deck 5, as we did on the final day to print our boarding passes, you will incur an additional 60 cent per minute charge. That seems a little odd. In spite of that, MSC offers excellent Internet service.

Food & Dining

To say that the buffet is massive might be an understatement. There are serving lines on both port and starboard sides of the vessel. We found that if you show up for breakfast early (before 8:30am), you can breeze through with no problem. After 9:00am, forget it. In spite of multiple areas serving scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage and breads, the lines are long and crowds begin to form at the drink stations. There are no eggs made-to-order at the buffet, but they do offer fried, scrambled and boiled eggs, at least at a couple of the stations.

The buffet is open throughout the day and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The variety of hot dishes changes each day, but some items are always available. The most notable is the pizza, which can be found near the front of the Calumet buffet. They do place pizzas at various stations, but the freshest pizza can be found here coming right out of the oven. The pizza is quite good. I think it is as good as you will find on any cruise ship and much better than most.

Pizzas are being made by hand at Calumet buffet

In what would seem to be an attempt to appeal to American tastes, MSC is also providing a selection of burgers, hot dogs and French fries. I tried the cheeseburger and, even though the meat was not super hot, the bun was soft and the meat had good flavor. Notwithstanding the pizza, which exceeds expectations, the rest of the buffet fare is pretty typical. The confusion comes from the way the buffet is laid out. Instead of separate island stations, it is basically one long serving line that is sort of divided into stations. The problem is, unless you work your way through the entire buffet line on port and starboard sides of the ship, you might miss some items. Some items, like the burgers and hot dogs, are only located in one place. This can create a real traffic problem during peak periods.

There are two main restaurants on Divina. The Villa Rossa is located aft on Deck 6 and was our assigned dining room. The larger Black Crab is located on Decks 5 and 6 amidships. Both dining rooms are beautifully decorated, and both serve full menu service at dinner. Only Villa Rossa was open for breakfast and lunch on our sailing. Traditional early and late seating (6:00pm and 8:30pm) with assigned tables are adhered to in both dining rooms. We were assigned to a table for two located at the very back of Villa Rossa, right next to a window. It was a perfect location for us. We found the service to be much improved from what we noted on our 2009 MSC sailing. Our waiter, Mega, and his assistant, never allowed our water glasses to go empty and they kept our wine glasses filled as well. Both were friendly and efficient. We were impressed. The food we experienced in the Villa Rossa was pretty typical for a cruise ship dining room: good, but not great. Well, maybe with one exception: the bread. The bread served throughout the ship is excellent.

On MSC Divina, guests are not limited to the buffet or the main restaurants as there are a variety of other dining venues on board from which to choose. However, most will incur an additional charge to your shipboard account.

Galaxy Disco - Yes, there is a dining room in a disco! The Galaxy Disco offers a daily brunch for $28 per person. In the evening, there are three "Dining Experience" options: a 3-course meal for $24.00, a 5-course meal for $35.00 and a 7-course meal with 7 different glasses of wine for $59.00. There are also a' la carte choices.

The pizza at La Cantina Di Bacco is the best we have had on a cruise ship

La Cantina Di Bacco - This is the ultimate made-to-order pizza on board Divina. Watch a master pizza chef make your pizza and bake it in the brick oven. A Margherita pizza is only $8.50 and is large enough for two people to share. We had the "custom" pizza for $13 which consisted of half what I wanted and half what Rickee wanted. It was worth every penny. I am pretty sure that this is the BEST pizza we have had on any cruise ship.

Eataly Steakhouse - This is Divina's Italian steakhouse (Deck 7) and is a partnership with the New York and Chicago chain of Eataly restaurants. The hip decor is highlighted by red-and-clear acrylic seating. The menu is a' la carte and a multi-course meal for two can easily cost into the triple digits. Service was a bit sketchy on our visit with patrons arriving after us getting served first. The bread-in-a-bag is clever, but served cold. Honestly, better bread can be found in the ship's main dining rooms. My Rib Eye steak was nicely cooked and flavorful, but the highlight of the meal was the Parma Vs San Danielle, a combination of two famous Italian Prosciuttos that, by itself, would be worthy of a return visit. Rickee's Beef Carpaccio was large enough to be a main course. We both agreed that the pasta course of 'Spaghettone' was just a bit too al dente for our liking. In spite of the shortcomings, Eataly is well worth a visit for the unique atmosphere and beef-inspired menu.

MSC Divina Eataly Steakhouse

Delicious Parma Vs San Danielle starter at Eataly

Italia Ristorante - This small, more formal venue, is located within the Eataly space on Deck 7 and is somehow connected to Eataly, but I never exactly figured out the connection. This Italian restaurant features a fixed-price menu for $59 per person and reservations are required. On our sailing, we never saw more than one table occupied at a time.

Sports Bar - In yet another departure from the "norm," the Sports Bar on Deck 7 also has its own galley and finger food menu. I tried the Sampler Platter ($12) which includes a combination of fried mozzarella cheese, chicken nuggets, onion rings, coconut shrimp and chicken wings. Everything but the onion rings was piping hot. The onion rings would have been better if they had been freshly made. Everything else was good with the fried cheese the best of the lot. You can also get cheese-stuffed jalapenos. There is a selection of burgers ($6 to $7) a hot dog ($7) and a Philly cheesesteak ($7). It would have to be a pretty good hot dog for $7!

Le Muse - This is the private dining room exclusively for MSC Yacht Club guests. The dining room is located on Deck 14 aft and is beautifully decorated, albeit overlooking the aft pool. The service here is impeccable and we found the food to be a step up from the main dining rooms. Our recommendation for those staying in the Yacht Club: make reservations after dark, otherwise you will be enjoying your meal whilst looking out on scantily-clad sun worshippers.

Dinner at Le Muse is reserved for MSC Yacht Club guests

Piazza Del Doge - This is MSC Divina's gelateria and pasticceria located on Deck 5 just forward of the Casino Veneziano. Here you will find a variety of sweet baked treats including cupcakes, cakes, macarons as well as hand-dipped Venchi Italian gelato. A macaron will set you back a measly $1.10 while a dip of gelato is $2. We heard that the gelato is made on board, but wherever it is made, it is delicious and well worth the price. The same gelato is available at Aqua Park (poolside) on Deck 14.

During the day in the Caribbean, the pool deck (14) is the busiest place on the ship. MSC Divina has tons of open deck space and enough loungers so that anyone who wants some sun can probably get their share. Aqua Park on Deck 14 is the largest pool area and is the ship's headquarters for sun worship. Here you will find dozens of lounge chairs, some are even positioned so that you are protected from the sun and other elements. The Tritone Bar and Poseidon Bar are responsible for keeping sun-lovers hydrated. A large television screen plays programming during the day, mostly ads for the ship's services. A small stage is used for various ship's activities. In fact, many of the ship's activities take place at Aqua Park during the day. Bingo is played poolside with numbers being displayed on the large TV screen. Even the shops set up tables along the perimeter of Deck 14 to sell merchandise

Aqua Park is the largest pool area on MCS Divina

For those who would like an escape from the younger crowd, Top 18 is an adult-only sanctuary with premium deck space and panoramic ocean views. In addition to sun loungers, Top 18 features "cacoons" which are sort of like egg-shaped wicker loungers that offer protection from the and a comfortable padded cushion. There's also a bar menu, complimentary fruit skewers and a menu of express spa treatments. There is an additional charge for access to Top 18, but it is reasonable and well worth it for the additional privacy.

Cacoons are available for daily or weekly rental

Le Sirene is a covered pool just forward of Aqua Park. Le Sirene is one of the nicest covered pools you will find at sea. On our voyage, the retractable roof was opened in the afternoons on most days. The Pool Shop located here sells anything you could possibly need for water-related activities. The Garden Pool is located aft on Deck 14 and is the "hidden gem" of pools on Divina and also has its own Garden Bar to make sure you don't have far to go for refreshment. MSC Yacht Club members enjoy their own private pool and bar area on Deck 18 forward.

In addition to the pool areas, sun lounge chairs are scattered on every deck where there is sun washing over them. Bright orange towels area available for guest use, but must be "checked out" using your room key. Fail to return the towel and a $20 charge might appear on your shipboard account.

The One pool is located on Deck 18 exclusively for MSC Yacht Club guests

There is no shortage of things to do on MSC Divina. There are usually multiple activities going on simultaneously in various areas of the ship. The next day's activities are listed in the Daily Program which is delivered to your stateroom each evening during turn down. The Daily Program is still in need of a redesign as the information is confusing and poorly laid out. This is something we also noticed back in 2009 onboard MSC Orchestra.

Activities & Entertainment

Evenings on MSC Divina can be spent in your choice of the ship's unique and stylish bars and lounges. On Deck 5, the Divina Bar offers seating right next to Guest Services, which can get a bit crowded. A small stage at the base of the impressive atrium features a pianist accompanying two talented violinists. If you walk up the atrium stairs, which are blinged out with Swarovski crystals embedded in clear acrylic, you can enjoy a cocktail at Silver Lounge. Here you can still enjoy the music coming from the atrium without the Guest Relations crowd.

For our tastes, the best place to enjoy an evening drink and still be able to listen to the atrium music requires a visit to Deck 7 and Caffe Italia. Not only is this my favorite spot for morning coffee, it is a warm and inviting place for evening cocktails.

If you enjoy a glass of wine, there is no better place to do so than La Cantina Di Bacco on Deck 7. This was one of our favorite spots on Divina. The decor is reminiscent of a cozy Italian wine bar.

Order a glass of wine here in the evening and you will be treated to a small plate of amazing finger foods. In fact, the tapas served here are so substantial that we skipped dinner a couple of evenings and just had the snacks served here!

Impressive small plates are offered with wine in the evenings at La Cantina Di Bacco

It is also important to note that the wine list here is quite impressive and includes a large number of wines "by the glass" at reasonable prices. A typical glass of wine is between $6 and $8, comparable to any restaurant or bar on land. But, don't forget the incredible small plates! If the small plates are not enough, you can always order one of the amazing pizzas.

If you move forward on Deck 7, you will eventually come to our second favorite watering hole, The Golden Jazz Bar. We love the quirky, ultra-contemporary seating that only an Italian designer could pull off.

Even though the decor here is modern, the brown and gold color scheme warms the place up at night and makes it an inviting spot to enjoy a drink and listen to some excellent music. Unfortunately, we missed the dueling pianos featured here, but we did get to enjoy the music of Duo Devotion on a couple of visits. Next door to Golden, you will find the Sports Bar with its flat screen televisions showing ESPN programming. The Sports Bar even has a couple of Mini Bowling lanes! We never saw anyone bowling here. At $7 a game, price might be a deterrent. Also, instead of allowing you to swipe your room key to bowl, you have to go to Reception and obtain a special token! What's up with that? Why not sell the tokens at the Sports Bar? Who is going to walk all the way down to Deck 5, then stand in line at Reception, just so they can pay $7 to bowl? MSC needs to re-think this one. The mini-bowling is really cool idea for which the logistics have been poorly executed.

I suspect that the ship's designers figured that Mom and Dad could have a drink at The Golden Jazz Bar while the 'tweens would be next door bowling and filling up on chicken wings, burgers and milk shakes. Makes sense. Just forward of The Golden Jazz Bar is La Luna Piano Bar. This space has a completely different vibe with a dark blue and purple color scheme and chrome accents. The large sofas in La Luna are perfectly suited for large groups to sit together and enjoy cocktails while listening to Duo Ameritalian entertain. The last notable lounge is the Black and White Lounge located aft on Deck 7. This is a substantial space with a large stage and dance floor. Here you could enjoy international dance music courtesy of Caribbean Flavor and Trio Latin Mambo.

The Black and White Lounge on Deck 7 aft

Of course, the highlight of every evening aboard MSC Divina is the entertainment in The Pantheon Theater. With its red seats, the Pantheon is one of the prettiest theaters you will find on any ship. The stage is massive and sight lines are excellent from virtually everywhere in the theater, including the balcony. We attended two of the ship's premier evening shows, Wonderland and The Witches of Paris. Both were excellent productions with exceptional dancing, vocals, acrobats and contortionists. The costumes, set design and vocals almost make you forget that all of the music is recorded. A live orchestra would really add a lot. Nevertheless, these shows are some of the best we have ever seen on a ship.

The cast of The Witches Of Paris enjoy a standing ovation

The real shocker came on our last day at sea when we attended an Italian opera matinee performance. This was the first time we have ever been to an opera on a cruise ship. Wait a minute.This is the first time we have ever been to an opera anywhere! The vocals were absolutely amazing. I now understand the appeal of opera. This turned out to be one of our favorite shows of the week.

Throughout the day, you can find entertainers in various lounges and pubic spaces, and they are all very talented. If you choose to spend your time pumping iron or in a spin class, Divina has a very well-equipped fitness center with all the latest weight training equipment and cardio gear. A selection of group fitness sessions are held throughout the day. Guests can sign up for these sessions at Aurea Spa on Deck 14 forward.

The Aurea Spa is a large and beautiful spa with every imaginable service available. In fact, there are so many services available, at so many different price points, that it can be confusing trying to find what you are looking for. I tried to locate the price for a Swedish massage in the large book at Aurea and after flipping through several pages of spa treatments, in multiple languages, I gave up looking. I am sure if I had asked someone, they could have told me, but I just wanted to find it on my own. It is safe to say, however, that whatever type of treatment you are looking for, they have it.

There is a steam and sauna area available for $99 for the entire week. A one-hour pass to the steam/sauna is $16. A full-service Beauty Salon is nearby offering a wide variety of salon services. They were running haircut specials for $15, but they did not specify if it was for a men's or lady's cut. The Spa Bar offers a color-coded menu of healthy and delicious smoothies and vitamin-rich concoctions. Rickee and I each tried one of the fruity creations and they were delicious. The spa also sells a wide variety of exercise clothing and shoes.

MSC Divina Spa Bar

Our fruity and delicious smoothie is mixed at The Spa Bar

We only made one visit to Casino Veneziano to play the slot machines. We we got up $40 we decided to quit while we were ahead. The casino is located on Deck 6 forward and is located such that guests heading to The Pantheon Theater must make their way past the gaming tables and slot machines on their way to the show. The casino has most of the popular table games (blackjack, craps, roulette, etc.) and dozens of slot machines.

MSC Yacht Club

Surely there are cruise enthusiasts who would love to have all of the amenities and services of a large cruise ship like Divina, but prefer the luxury of a smaller, more intimate space. This is exactly what MSC Yacht Club offers. Basically, MSC has designated specific areas of Divina as exclusive to MSC Yacht Club "members". How does someone become a member? Book a MSC Yacht Club category stateroom or suite, and you are in! There are a total of 69 Yacht Club staterooms located on Decks 12, 15 and 16 forward. The majority are on Decks 15 and 16 with three located on Deck 12. Access to the Yacht Club areas on 15 and 16 is only available using a Yacht Club key card. An MSC Yacht Club Concierge lobby and desk is located on Deck 15 and provides guest services to Yacht Club members.

Yacht Club members also have exclusive use of the Top Sail Lounge on Deck 15 forward. The Top Sail has a full bar with complimentary cocktails, beer and wine for Yacht Club members. A Continental breakfast is served here each morning and finger foods are available throughout the day. The panoramic view of the ocean is probably second only to the Bridge. An Afternoon Tea service is offered each day between 5pm and 6pm and it is one of the nicest we have seen anywhere. In fact, it is the nicest we have seen on any ship. A private pool, hot tub and lounge area is located on Deck 18 forward and is only accessible to Yacht Club members. In fact, the only time a Yacht Club member is required to leave the confines of the Yacht Club is to dine at Le Muse, MSC Yacht Club's private restaurant located on Deck 15 aft. Le Muse is a beautiful, Italian-theme restaurant with its own galley, chef and service team. Maitre d, Tomislav, from Croatia, and Sommelier, Luigi, from Italy, make sure each Yacht Club member has a memorable meal at Le Muse. We were privileged to dine here one evening and were quite impressed with the service, the wine and the food.

Luigi, Sommelier and Tomislav, Maitre d at Le Muse

Interestingly, the standard MSC Yacht Club balcony staterooms are not much larger than a non-Yacht Club balcony stateroom. They are, however, a bit more upscale with walk-in closets, marble vanity and upgraded bathroom amenities. Yacht Club members will also find a bottle of chilled champagne in their stateroom upon arrival as well as a lot of little extras throughout the cruise. Making sure MSC's most demanding guests are taken care of is the job of Federica Gasparrini, the MSC Yacht Club Concierge. Federica and her assistant go above and beyond to meet the needs of the Yacht Club members. After our brief visit to the Yacht Club, we are convinced. The MSC Yacht Club is for us!

Federica Gasparrini is the MSC Yacht Club Concierge on MSC Divina

MSC Divina Dress Code

As you would expect in the Caribbean, casual wear is perfectly fine throughout the ship before 6pm. However, tank tops, bikini, bathrobes or bare feet are not acceptable in any restaurant at any time. After 6pm the dress code will change from day-to-day. Casual means ladies can wear trousers, sporty outfits and gentlemen can get away with a nice t-shirt and jeans or trousers. On Informal evenings, men will need to leave the jeans in the closet and wear trousers and a shirt with a collar, ladies can wear slacks with a blouse or an informal dress. There are two Gala nights were gentlemen are asked to wear a tuxedo, a dark suit and tie or a dinner jacket, ladies can wear formal gowns or cocktail dresses. Most people did adhere to the proper dress code during our cruise. There were a few 20-somethings that could be seen in shorts, even on formal night, but not many.

In A Nutshell

We can always tell more from a second or third sailing on a cruise line than we can from the first one. On this cruise, we had the opportunity to see the trajectory of the brand. The good news is that, in our opinion, the MSC Cruises product has definitely improved over our 2009 experience. The things that we liked in 2009 have remained the same or improved and many of the things we did not like have been fixed.

From a hardware standpoint, MSC Divina is a big cruise ship, not that much different from many big ships sailing around the world today. The difference is in the "soft-ware". The experience is noticeably more European. Even with a majority of guests on Caribbean sailings being North American, there are still a lot of Italian, Russian, South/Central American and other European guests. When you sail on MSC, you will hear a lot of different languages spoken and you will feel like you are vacationing in Europe. Many Americans will find this to be an exotic and intriguing alternative to the 'run-of-the-mill' mainstream cruise lines dominating the Caribbean.

Other Observations and Notes

I felt like the daily program still needs help. I thought the layout and content were confusing, Rickee did not agree with me on this one.

The ship's photographers are more aggressive than the shopkeepers in Cozumel. In the evening, you can't go anywhere on the ship without being approached by multiple photographers.

There are so many options for drinks, food, spa treatments, etc. that it is very confusing and almost overwhelming. We saw at least three different wine tasting prices.

The smoking on the pool deck (starboard side) means you have to walk through a gauntlet of smoke to get anywhere on Deck 14.

There are lots of children on board, most likely due to the "kids sail free" promotions. As we said, this is a very family-friendly cruise line.

There is a very European feel on board and you will hear many different languages spoken by the guests. Many announcements are delivered in multiple languages; however, English is the primary language on Caribbean sailings.

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GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 3/2/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 3/2/14

Exploring Chilean Fjords on Silversea Silver Explorer

We spend 11 nights aboard Silversea Expeditions Silver Explorer. Our first Silversea Expeditions cruise!

Itinerary: Buenos Aires (pre-cruise hotel), Ushuaia, Garabaldi Glacier, Punta Arenas, Chilean Fjord Cruising, Pio XI Glacier, Caleta Tortel, At Sea, Castro, Niebla, Puerto Montt, At Sea, Valparaiso

When we arrived in Buenos Aires for a two night pre-cruise hotel stay, I was still trying to get my head around the idea of Silversea being in the expedition/adventure cruise segment. After all, Silversea is all about 5-star luxury. We have been on plenty of luxury cruises, and quite a few expedition sailings, so I was prepared for Silversea Expeditions to be a watered-down version of each. I was wrong. Silversea has managed to build a new brand around the idea of luxury expeditions. So, now you can spend your days getting sprayed by salt water coming off the bow of a zodiac and return to a 5-star luxury ship, with all the pampering that entails, in the afternoon.

Of course, there are a few trade-offs for those of you who are used to Silversea's "larger" vessels. Silver Explorer is much smaller. But, what you lose in public spaces and amenities, you more than make up for by having a vessel that can to navigate into smaller, more interesting locations. She carries a maximum of 132 guests and 117 crew members. On our sailing, there were only 71 guests, so the crew-to-guest ratio was high. With a tonnage of 6,072, she is less than half the size of Silversea's next largest ship (Silver Cloud/Wind) which has a tonnage rating of 16,800. Silver Explorer has guest accommodations on decks 3, 4, 5 and 7.

All suites and staterooms feature butler service, refrigerator and bar setup stocked with your preferences, down duvets, fine bed linens, firm or soft mattresses, your choice of pillow, Italian marble bathroom with full-sized bath and European bath amenities, spa robes and slippers, personalized stationery, umbrella, flat-screen TVs with interactive video, on-demand movies, music and satellite news programming. WiFi Internet access is available in all suites and staterooms for a fee.

Our butler, Oki, opens our welcome-aboard champagne

On our sailing, Silversea provided a one-night stay at The Park Tower hotel in Buenos Aires. We decided to book an extra night on our own so that we would have a day without jet lag to explore the city. That was a smart decision. This is a great city and one that you do not want to miss. We booked a walking tour online with BuenosTours.com that gave us a great sample of all that Buenos Aires has to offer. A Silversea representative was available at Park Tower to answer any questions or arrange optional tours. On the morning of embarkation, Silversea guests were invited to enjoy an early breakfast at the hotel before a bus ride to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires for the charter flight to Ushuaia.

The LAN Airbus 320 chartered flight to Ushuaia was late, but we still arrived in Ushuaia around 1:30pm. By 2:00pm, we were walking up the gangway and onto Silver Explorer.

We were greeted on Deck 5 just outside of Panorama Lounge where we had our photos taken, surrendered our passports and received our room keys. The whole process only took a couple of minutes. And, in true Silversea tradition, after checking in, we were handed a glass of champagne and invited to enjoy snacks in the lounge. Ahhhh, now this is the way to rough it on an expedition cruise!

It does not take long to move from one space to another aboard Silver Explorer. On Deck 3 you will find Reception, the Infirmary and the Zodiac boarding area. Deck 4 is where you will find the Fitness Center, The Boutique and The Restaurant. The Fitness Center is a small room with only a few cardio machines (treadmill, bicycle, elliptical) , a weight machine and some free weights. If you are serious about working out, you might find this a bit lacking compared to larger ships. The Boutique, however, is quite nice and well stocked for a ship this size. The Restaurant is located aft on Deck 4 and is a roomy, comfortable dining room where all meals are served. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style, while dinner is traditional full menu service. More about The Restaurant later.

SSExplorer - 60.jpg — Well-stocked Boutique

On Deck 5 aft you will find the Panorama Lounge, a bit of a misnomer since there really is no panoramic view. Nevertheless, it does have all of the comfortable seating and excellent bar service you expect from Silversea. This is the best, and perhaps only, place on Silver Explorer to enjoy a before or after dinner cocktail. We enjoyed dropping by Panorama each evening before dinner for a drink and to listen to the musical stylings of Lou or Mario. After the first day, the bar staff, Oscar and Chester, both knew my favorite drink and it was delivered to me without my even having to ask.

Next to the Panorama on Deck 5 aft is the Internet Cafe and Library. There are three computer terminals located here for guest use. The ship is equipped with Wi-Fi which is accessible throughout the ship. We found the Internet connectivity to be spotty, primarily because we spent a fair amount of time in fjords which block the signal from the satellite. In open waters, however, connection was great and the speeds were as good as you will find on any ship. Internet pricing is also competitive. A 250-minute package is $85 and a 1000-minute package is only $250 (25 cents per minute).

Moving up to Deck 6 can be a little tricky. There are two elevator/staircases, one forward and one aft. The aft staircase will take you to The Spa and Outdoor Grill. The forward staircase/elevator will give you access to The Theater and the Observation Lounge. We did not have the opportunity to visit the Spa on this sailing, but they do offer massage treatments and have a steam room and sauna. There is also a small hair salon that offers hair styling and manicures and pedicures. In a departure from traditional cruise ships, Silver Explorer does not have a swimming pool. There are, however, two hot tubs aft on Deck 6. The Outdoor Grill is also located here. As with the Pool Grill on other Silversea ships, the Outdoor Grill offers a limited menu of burgers, salads and sandwiches from noon until 2pm, weather permitting. On our sailing, weather did not permit often. Part of the problem is that all seating is exposed to the elements. One day when the weather seemed agreeable, I tried the Outdoor Grill and my beautiful double-meat burger and onion rings arrived just as the cold rain began pelting me. I was forced to retreat to The Restaurant to finish lunch. An awning extending from Deck 7 to cover at least half of the tables would go a long way to make the Outdoor Grill a more usable space.

On Deck 6 forward you will find the Observation Lounge, a small venue with a view over the bow of the ship. There is no bar service here, other than what you will find in The Theater just forward of Observation. However, this bar is only open during limited times. So, Observation is basically a place to relax, read and enjoy the scenery. However, that view of the scenery will be blocked if other guests decide to congregate on the open deck in front of Observation. There is a large flat-screen television in the Observation Lounge and a small library of books. Only a few steps aft of Observation is The Theater, which serves as the main meeting point for lectures and briefings. Each evening, guests meet in The Theater before dinner for a daily briefing to recap the day's activities and prepare for the next day's adventures. In true Silversea style, guests are greeted when they enter The Theater and offered the cocktail-of-the-day.

Attending a daily briefing in The Theater

Staterooms and Suites on Silver Explorer far exceed what you will find on typical expedition vessels. The Veranda Suite on Silver Explorer is smaller than the same category on the non-expedition Silversea ships, but still quite roomy and nice at 206-216 sq. ft. A step-out balcony (French balcony) with a floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door gives you a fresh air view of the surroundings. Our Owner's Suite (705) was a spacious 728 sq. ft. and had just about every creature comfort you could want. The separate living room and bedroom are divided by a hallway with a large walk-in closet on one side and a huge marble bathroom on the other. The bathroom had a separate shower and tub which was basically a full-sized tub in a huge shower stall. To take a shower, you stand next to the tub under a rain shower head. The setup looked strange at first, but really is pure genius. Also, the six suites on Deck 7 are the only ones with full-sized balconies. We could access our huge balcony through a sliding glass door in both the living area and the bedroom. All suites offer tons of storage and closet space. About the only thing missing from our Owner's Suite was hooks for hanging up the complimentary red parkas. Owner's suite guests also have the added benefit of two hours of complimentary telephone calls to anywhere and four hours of complimentary Internet. Laundry, dry cleaning and pressing services are also complimentary for Owner's Suite guests.

During our 11-night sailing, we took full advantage of our excellent butler, Oki. We used room service to enjoy dinner in our suite on more than a few evenings. Food was always delivered promptly and hot. One advantage of a Silversea cruise is that you can order from a 24-hour room service menu, or, during normal Restaurant hours, you can order from the evening's menu. As some of you who follow our blog may know, I do my blogging early in the morning, before Early Riser's. So, on Silver Explorer I was able to order coffee delivered to our suite at 5:30am in the morning and work in my pajamas from the comfort of our living room. Talk about spoiled!

SSExplorerA - 1.jpg — My private blogging station

Housekeeping duties in our suite were flawlessly performed by Amol. No matter how late we left our suite in the morning, Amol was always nearby to bring it back to perfection. If we had a special request for different pillows, or more hangers, Amol wasted no time in making it happen. The team of Amol and Oki made this a typical Silversea experience. And "typical" on Silversea means excellent!

Amol kept our suite in perfect condition

One area that we honestly had low expectations for was food and dining. Before our cruise, we did some research and read a couple of reviews that had some negative comments about the food quality on Silver Explorer. You can imagine how pleasantly surprised we were to find that the food was as good or better than what we have had on other Silversea ships. It just goes to show you that you can't believe everything you read and that you should take any information on the Internet with a grain of salt. And, we are not alone. I talked with several guests who also said they were amazed at the quality and variety of food. With only a couple of small exceptions, everything I tried was very good. The link sausage on the breakfast buffet was a little odd, but I suspect that is a South American provisioning thing. Otherwise, the breakfast buffet offered everything you would find on a larger Silversea vessel. The fresh donuts and pastries are decadent and delicious. The lunch buffet choices in The Restaurant change each day. A wonderful salad bar is complemented with a variety of hot dishes. There is always a fish of the day, a soup of the day, an Asian dish and a carving station, in addition to other hot offerings. The Chicken Korma served one day was one of the best I have ever eaten...anywhere.

In the evenings, The Restaurant takes on a more traditional Silversea look and feel. Menus change each evening and offer a wide variety of choices throughout the cruise. The service in The Restaurant was impeccable, just like on any Silversea ship. Simona soon became our favorite waitress at our favorite table for two. A complimentary red and white wine are offered each day in The Restaurant; however, we enjoy a sweet white wine. We requested a German Riesling on day one. Even though no Riesling was on board, the wine steward found an excellent Moscato that served as our daily favorite. Of course, upon each visit to The Restaurant, our Moscato was chilled and waiting for us. There is also a list of premium "reserve" wines for purchase. Special requests are handled with a smile. So, if you have special dietary requirement, or would simply like to have something other than what is on the menu, just tell your butler or waiter a day or so in advance, and Chef Christian will make it happen. This is one of the reasons people come back to Silversea again and again.

Simona, our excellent waitress on Silver Explorer

Make no mistake, even though Silversea luxury is everywhere you look, a Silversea Expeditions sailing is much different that a Silversea cruise. There is no casino or evening production shows. The purpose of these ships is to explore, hence the term "expedition". Silver Explorer guests are pampered on board the ship, but once you step onto one of the Zodiacs from Deck 3, the adventure begins. A team of Expedition Leaders guide you through some of the harshest, most beautiful environments on the planet to experience wildlife and nature in its rawest form. An expedition is not about motor coach rides and cathedral tours. That's what you do on a cruise. A cruise is a trip of a lifetime, an expedition will change your life. Silver Explorer can take you to Antarctica to walk with penguins, or to the Arctic where you can be as close to a Polar Bear as any human on Earth. You can't do that from a motor coach, or a tender boat. On days when you are enroute to the next area to explore, the onboard naturalists enrich your experience with lectures complete with slideshows and videos. Team trivia is held on a few afternoons. And you can always select from a huge list of on-demand movies on your suite television. We really liked that the lectures are broadcast live on the suite television.

Zodiacs are used to explore nature and wildlife

Silver Explorer guests board small pontoon boats, called Zodiacs, to explore glaciers, icebergs, and to make wet and dry landings. A "wet" landing is one where you step off the Zodiac into ankle deep water. So, waterproof boots and waterproof pants are a must. There are rarely docks or jettys in nature, so wet landings are commonplace. Silversea Expeditions provides guests with complimentary red parkas and waterproof backpacks. The parkas are very comfortable, warm and they are yours to keep. The backpacks are large enough to hold a fair amount of gear along with the silver metal/glass water bottle that Silversea provides each guest. Preserving the environment they visit is very important to Silversea so plastic water bottles are not encouraged or provided.

Every guest is required to attend a Zodiac safety meeting where Expedition Leaders go over the procedures of safely getting into and out of the Zodiacs. Each Zodiac can hold up to 13 people and they are very stable and maneuverable. Each Zodiac is piloted by an Expedition Leader who will point out various wildlife and other points of interest during a typical outing. Guests are encouraged to bring cameras and binoculars on the Zodiac, but you should have some way of protecting your gear from rain and splashing water. I used a shower cap from our suite's bathroom to cover my DSLR camera and a Ziplok bag works great for pocket digital cameras.

Expedition cruises are a photographer's dream

Compared to other expedition cruises we have experienced, Silversea Expeditions is at the top of the segment. The Expedition Leaders and Assistants were all knowledgeable, friendly and willing to answer any questions. You can tell, they love what they do. In addition to their excursion duties, they also conduct a series of lectures on a variety of topics including wildlife, geology and nature. The lectures are both entertaining and educational. Daily excursions, lectures, meal times and destination information can be found in the Chronicles, the ship's daily newsletter which is placed in your suite each evening at turndown.

Silversea has managed to combine the excitement of adventure travel with the luxury of a Silversea cruise. Silversea Expeditions represents the most civilized way possible to experience some of the harshest, yet most beautiful environments on Earth. We can sum up our feelings in five words. "When can we go again?"

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PHOTO GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 1/14/14 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 1/14/14

14 Night Route of the Americas aboard Azamara Quest

We spend 14 nights aboard Azamara Quest from Puerto Caldera to Los Angeles.

Itinerary: Puerto Caldera, Puntarenas, San Juan del Sur, Acajutla, Puerto Quetzal, Puerto Chiapas, Huatulco, At Sea, Manzanillo, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas (2), At Sea, At Sea, Los Angeles

Azamara Club Cruises has carved out quite a nice little niche in the premium cruise market over the past few years. When we first sailed on Azamara Journey in 2011, we could detect a fierce loyalty among passengers was building. That was confirmed when more than 400 guests showed up at the Le Club Voyage cocktail reception on this cruise. That's two-thirds of the guests on board!

Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises' little sister, has a fleet of only two ships: Azamara Quest and Azamara Journey. The ships are virtually identical and were originally two of the now-defunct Renaissance Cruises' "R"-ships. The Quest (originally the R7) was constructed in 1999 as part of a grand scheme by Renaissance to dominate the cruise industry by permanently placing identical 700-guest vessels at popular cruise destinations around the world, thus avoiding costly re-positioning cruises. The guests would benefit by gaining familiarity with the "R" design so, no matter where they cruised or on which ship, the hardware experience would be the same. Renaissance went bankrupt shortly after 9/11, so we will never know if their plan for world domination would have worked. But, what the cruise industry gained through the ashes of Renaissance was nine of these incredibly popular "R" ships, two of which now operate under the Azamara Club Cruises' banner.

We embarked Azamara Quest in Puerto Caldera, which required a 90-minute drive from San Jose, Costa Rica. We attempted to purchase the Azamara transfer (bus) from the San Jose airport to Caldera. However, in spite of arriving at the airport 30 minutes early, we found the bus was already full. Rather than sit at the airport for three hours until the next Azamara bus departed for Caldera, we decided to get a taxi van to drive us to Puerto Caldera. As it turns out, the cost was the same for two people to have a private taxi van as it was for the Azamara transfer ($45 pp or $90 total). Here's a tip if you are sailing out of Puerto Caldera. The taxi van can hold up to 6 people and you can split the $90 and save money over the cruise line's transfer!

*Orange taxi van from San Jose airport to Puerto Caldera*

While far from perfect, the Azamara Quest has a lot going for it. First, many cruisers consider this to be the perfect size ship. It is large enough to offer multiple dining venues, a spa, a fitness center, casino, and all the amenities you would expect from larger ships, yet it is small enough that you can traverse the entire ship from bow to stern in under three minutes. The ship is also small enough to fit into some small ports that the huge ships can only dream of. The "ride" of the ship was extremely smooth under the direction of Captain Jose Vilrinho and thanks to the ship's stabilizers. The pool deck is large enough to accommodate a sizable number of sun worshipers and, if that is not enough, climb up the steps to Deck 11 where there are more lounge chairs. A jogging track on Deck 10 is a popular space where guests can be spotted walking or jogging throughout the day.

The Quest (and Journey) was in dry dock in 2012 where the stark white hull was re-painted dark blue to match the Celebrity fleet, and returned to the original look of the "R" ship. We think the dark blue is much classier on this size of ship. But, there's more than paint. The rock-hard mattresses that we experienced in 2011 have been replaced with very comfortable Italian-made mattresses. And, the bed frames have been replaced with new ones that are high enough to store your luggage underneath. We found the pillows and duvets to be comfortable, but were told that all new high-quality linens are planned for the near future. The pool was re-tiled and resurfaced and the Windows Cafe was gutted and rebuilt, even though the changes are hardly noticeable. Chairs throughout many of the public spaces were fitted with new fabrics and the Luxe Lounge was expanded. The Casino Bar also got some new furnishings. There were some other modifications that guests will never see, such as new crew accommodations, lounge and mess area. As Hotel Director, Philip Herbert, says, "a happy crew means a happy ship."

As previously mentioned, like every ship, the Quest is not "perfect". The furnishings in the stateroom are beginning to look tired and dated. Thankfully, Azamara is testing a new, larger coffee table that can be raised for room service duty to replace the ridiculously small round one. The chairs in the Cabaret Lounge could also use an upgrade, and while we are making out a wish list, how about a lighted makeup mirror in the stateroom? The switch from Elemis bathroom amenities to something called "About Rose" was a bad move in our opinion. Bring back Elemis. Our Veranda Stateroom was on the small side, but reasonably comfortable. The bathroom is tiny and the shower. even tinier, with a shower curtain with which I now have a personal relationship. An upgrade to a Club Continent Suite would be a good investment in comfort, and you benefit from a butler, complimentary liquor in-suite and unlimited complimentary dining in Prime C and Aqualina restaurants. One thing that was near-perfect was the stateroom cleanliness, thanks to our excellent team of Mario and Jose. Our stateroom was made up each morning after we left the room and again each evening before we returned. Mario and Jose were always smiling, pleasant and accessible if we needed anything.

Cruise Director, Russ Grieve, did an excellent job of keeping everyone entertained with evening shows ranging from violinists to comedians to singers. But, the production shows featuring the Quest Singers and Dancers were the best of all. The four talented vocalists and four dancers displayed a level of energy that most of us wish we still had. The production shows were well conceived and executed with a minimum of prerecorded background vocal tracks and music. The Quest Band provided accompaniment for most shows. We suggest that guests arrive early to get a seat in one of the first three rows, lest you spend the evening looking at the back of another guest's head. The show lounge on these ships does not offer the tiered theater-style seating, and without major reconstruction, there's no way to solve that problem. On the upside, if you arrive early and get a seat up front, it puts you right in the middle of the action. The dancers will perform just inches from you. And, if you are lucky, a cruise director in drag might even kiss you on the forehead!

When it comes to dining on Quest, the options are varied. A full-service breakfast is served in the Discoveries dining room on Deck 5, while the popular Windows Cafe on Deck 9 offers a massive breakfast buffet. Don't miss the warm donuts and pastries at the waffle-and-pancake window. Continental breakfast treats and coffee specialty drinks are available at my favorite morning hangout, Mosiac Cafe, on Deck 5. Aline, a beautiful and friendly young lady from Brazil, was there to greet me each morning and was gracious enough to prepare my French press coffee for me (I travel with my own coffee and press). The coffee offerings at Mosaic are a little confusing. There is a Nespresso® menu on each table showing the pricing for the coffee drinks. However, what is not mentioned is that you only have to pay for Nespresso-brand drinks. If you order a coffee drink, say a Latte or Cappuccino, using the "house" coffee, it is complimentary.

The eConnections™ Internet Lounge on Deck 9 forward offers several computer terminals for access to the Internet. The ship is also equipped with Wi-Fi allowing wireless access throughout the ship. I was able to get a modest connection in our stateroom (8022), but a much better connection in Mosaic Cafe. In general, Internet speeds were slow, even for a cruise ship. I burned through 300 minutes in about seven days, and I was being conservative. I ended up using about 535 minutes total over the 14 days and still had to use Internet access at local restaurants in Cabo and Manzanillo. However, to be fair, when I travel I am working, so I probably use a lot more Internet than the typical cruise guest. Pricing is on par with other cruise lines and Club Le Voyage members can get complimentary Internet depending on their award level. Azamara offers a variety of Internet packages with the best deal being the 235 minute package (42 cents per minute).

The Fitness center on Deck 10 forward is very well equipped with the latest cardio equipment, weight machines and free weights. The Astral Spa offers every imaginable treatment you could want from a quality spa. While we did not experience the spa on this cruise, we heard good reports from other guests. Separate men's and women's locker rooms are equipped with complimentary steam rooms. A thalassotherapy whirlpool and sun deck is available for an extra fee.

We were very surprised and excited to see Executive Chef Robert Rijsbergen and were even more surprised when he greeted us by name at the Pool Grill! We sailed with Chef Rijsbergen in 2004 on SeaDream Yacht Club, where he was the Executive Chef on SeaDream II. Coincidentally, we sailed with him on my birthday back in 2004, and I remember that he prepared a special plate of Bruschetta (my favorite) for my birthday to be served to me at the beach BBQ. Chef Rijsbergen surprised me for my birthday this year, as well, when he personally delivered a plate of Bruschetta to our table in Prime C! To say that we were impressed is an understatement. Prime C and Aqualina are the two specialty restaurants on Quest (and Journey). Prime C is a classy steakhouse while Aqualina bills itself as having 'contemporary American cuisine with a Mediterranean flair'. Frankly, our tastes lean more towards the Prime C menu, but either restaurant is very good, and a step up in both service and food from Discoveries Dining Room and Windows Cafe.

Quest 559.jpg — *Executive Chef Robert Rijsbergen*

Windows Cafe is the ship's Lido buffet on Deck 9 aft and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Windows can get crowded, especially on sea days. There is a nice, large deck with al fresco dining aft of Windows, where you will also find the Sunset Bar. Additional covered seating can be found forward of Windows on the Pool Deck. On our cruise, there was a different theme each evening in Windows Cafe (Asian, Indian, British, Seafood, etc.) The food was pretty typical buffet fare, with a few standouts along the way. What is missing is the nightly stir-fry station which we really enjoyed on Journey in 2011. We only saw the stir-fry on one visit to Windows Cafe. Our two lunch visits to Discoveries Restaurant were mediocre. The service was slow and inconsistent. We seemed to get better service in Windows Cafe and, of course, service in Prime C is spot on. One of my favorite spots for lunch is the Pool Grill. This often overlooked venue just happens to have one of the best hamburgers you will find on any cruise ship. The steak fries are wonderful, but the onion rings could use some help; they are tough and chewy. The lamb brochettes are tender and delicious. One of Rickee's favorite items was a little ham and cheese sandwich on a pretzel roll served at Mosaic Cafe most afternoons. In fact, Mosaic is a real treasure. A display of sweet and savory treats is always available and selections change throughout the day.

One great new offering that Azamara Club Cruises has implemented since our last sailing with them is the complimentary cocktail policy. Certain beer, wine and hard liquor drinks are now complimentary, as are all soft drinks and bottled water. This makes an Azamara Club Cruise a much better value for those of us who enjoy a cocktail or two each evening. The complimentary list of drinks is supplemented with a few optional, and somewhat confusing, premium liquor drink offerings. In other words, if you prefer Dewars White Label scotch, that will cost you extra; otherwise, you are relegated to Cutty Sark. Even Coors Light is considered a "premium" beer. It looks like a concept that was brought over from Celebrity or Royal Caribbean, and I am not sure it really fits with the Azamara brand. A premium package is not a bad idea, but there should be only one, not three. And, an inexpensive sparkling wine should be included in the complimentary offerings. Just saying. The complimentary wines (one red and one white) offered at lunch and dinner in all venues were quite good, so no complaints there. However, there were no "sweet" wines (e.g. Reisling) available on the complimentary list.

Bar service was one area where we noticed inconsistencies. This was most noticeable with the frozen drinks (Pinã Colada, Daquiri, Margarita, etc.) which could come out icy and tasting watered down. We soon learned that Aldin and Ruby (Pool Bar and Sunset Bar) made the best ones that were creamy and sweet.

*Aldin was the "go to" guy at the Pool Bar for the best frozen drinks*

Azamara's Land Discoveries Desk handles all shore excursions. We did not utilize their services on this sailing, other than the complimentary shuttle service in Acajutla and the transfer to the AzAmazing Evening event in Puerto Vallarta. We did look over the excursion offerings and many seemed quite expensive for what appeared to be little more than a lengthy bus ride. Some excursions, however, were very competitively priced. A whale watching tour in Cabo San Lucas was actually $2 cheaper than what we found a local operator was charging.

*Complimentary bottled water is available before you disembark in port*

Every Azamara Club Cruises' sailing now includes one AzAmazing Evening, a complimentary evening event where guests are invited to experience something unique. On our sailing, the AzAmazing Evening event was a visit to a ranch in the foothills of the Sierra Madres in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Guests were disembarked deck-by-deck and escorted to waiting vans at the pier. That's correct, vans, not motor coaches. The logisitics of transporting 500+ people using vans had to take a considerable amount of planning. The 45-minute ride to the Indian ranch included about 30 minutes over very rough dirt roads better suited for horses than vehicles. When we arrived, we were offered Margaritas, wine or beer. For some reason, our group, among the first to arrive, was seated at the very back of the venue underneath a thatched roof. This made it virtually impossible to see the show on the stage. The show consisted of native Indian performers, Mariachis, a cowboy performing some amazing rope tricks to music, and even a dancing horse, which we could, unfortunately, not see due to our location. We did see a horse's head bobbing up and down, so we assume he was dancing. Throughout the show, waiters circulated through the audience with trays of drinks, snacks and desserts. The service was incredible. The show ended with an impressive fireworks display, and then we were directed back to the vans for the ride back to the ship. No two AzAmazing Evenings are alike, they are unique for each cruise, so you cannot judge one by another. We talked with guests who have been on several, and apparently some are real hits, while others were a bust. We felt like this one was well executed and was worth attending. We just wish we had a better seat.

Unquestionably, the best feature of an Azamara Club Cruise is the staff. Virtually every staff member we encountered was friendly and engaging. Our room stewards, Mario and Jose, were incredible. Aline in Mosaic Cafe was always friendly and helpful. And, for the best frozen drinks on the ship, hunt down Aldin or Ruby at the Pool Bar. Captain Vilrinho was one of the most visible and affable Masters we have had the pleasure of meeting on any ship. Hotel Director Philip Herbert was also accessible throughout the cruise. And Russ Grieve has to be one of the best cruise directors you will find on any ship, anywhere. As Captain Vilrinho says, "All ships are made of steel, it's the people you put inside that makes the difference." Truer words were never spoken. And, Azamara Club Cruises has put some excellent people inside these ships.

*Rickee with Hotel Director, Philip Herbert*

We have watched the popularity of Azamara Club Cruises steadily grow since its inception. There is a huge and growing demand for the small to mid-size ship experience. With 400 repeat guests on this sailing, the handwriting is on the wall. For Azamara Club Cruises to grow, they are going to need more hardware going to more destinations. Perhaps the old Renaissance plan for world domination may be revived? Only time will tell...

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Notes: Spend the extra money to upgrade to the Club Continent Suite category. You get more space, butler service and unlimited complimentary dining in Prime C and Aqualina. Either the balcony is too small or the table is too large. Air conditioning had a hard time keeping the room cool when the sun was coming in through the balcony window/door. Bring back the Elemis amenities.

Notes: The popular nightly stir-fry in Windows Cafe is gone, bring it back! Food and service in Discoveries could use some improvement. Overall, the food and service throughout the ship is good to very good. Prime C is our favorite, and worth the $25 pp cover. Pool Grill is one of the best we have found on any ship. Finally, a good hamburger! Sushi every day and night in Windows Cafe is a real plus. Mosaic Cafe is a winning concept.

No early riser's breakfast/coffee service is a bummer, nothing until 7am. Bottom line: you won't go hungry.

Notes: Complimentary cocktails is a huge new benefit on Azamara. However, premium packages are pricey and confusing. No complimentary sparkling wine is disappointing. Bar service was slow at times. The quality of frozen drinks (e.g. Pina Colada) was inconsistent, Aldin and Ruby made the best ones. When did Coors Light become a "premium" beer?

Notes: Excellent entertainment that is only compromised by the sub-standard show lounge. Arrive early and sit up front to get right in the middle of the action.

Notes: One of the best crews you will find on any ship. Everyone is friendly and warm and eager to please.

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 12/9/13 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 12/9/13

Crystal Serenity Transatlantic Westbound

We spend twelve nights aboard Crystal Serenity sailing from Barcelona to Miami

Barcelona, Sea, Sea, Santa Cruz, de Tenerife, Sea, Sea, Sea, Sea, Sea, St Maarten, Sea, Sea, Miami

Having sailed on every luxury cruise line multiple times, we have a unique perspective when we set out to evaluate a luxury brand. In addition to our experience on luxury cruise lines, we also have a lot of experience with luxury hotels and resorts. We understand the luxury market. We know what the upscale luxury consumer expects and demands from a cruise experience. A luxury consumer will not compare a "luxury" cruise experience to a mainstream cruise experience. They are more likely to compare it to a Four Seasons, a Banyan Tree or Fairmont Hotel experience.

THE EVALUATION PROCESS

The evaluation process that we use for a luxury cruise line is far more extensive than we use for a mainstream cruise ship. A luxury cruise experience comes at a significant price, so more is expected. Crystal Cruises is one of the most popular and recognized luxury brands in cruising. There's not enough room in this story to list all of the awards they have racked up over the last 20 years, but it is impressive. However, when we step aboard a luxury ship, we are not concerned with awards. Awards speak to the past; we are only concerned with the product we experience at this point in time. We try to experience as much of the ship's facilities and services as possible so that we can evaluate and write about them. Our goal is to provide the most extensive and in-depth analysis of a product that you will find anywhere on the Internet.

Thousands of photos and hundreds of minutes of video are shot during the cruise

THE ASSIGNMENT

We sailed on Crystal Serenity's 12-night Transatlantic sailing from Barcelona to Miami. Of the 12 days aboard the ship, 10 were at sea. We only had port calls in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Philipsburg, St. Maarten.

THE DEMOGRAPHICS

While we did see a few "30-somethings" walking around the ship, the average age onboard this sailing was definitely older. Longer sailings with a lot of days at sea tend to attract an older, more mature crowd. In addition, this was a "Big Band" theme cruise which tends to attract an older group. We only saw a handful of children the entire cruise. More than half of the guests were from the USA and Canada. On formal dress nights, which are now referred to as "Black Tie Optional," most guests did opt for black tie.

Our sailing was a Big Band theme cruise featuring the Tommy Dorsey Band

THE SHIP

Crystal Serenity is one of two very similar Crystal ships. She is the larger of the two ships and carries 1070 guests with a crew complement of 655 and a crew-to-guest ratio of 1.65:1, one of the highest in the industry. The ship has 13 decks with guest accommodations on decks 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. Decks 10 and 11 are Penthouse Decks which offer butler service to the Penthouse-and-above categories.
Crystal Serenity
Crystal pulled out all the stops when I came to Christmas decorations during our cruise. A special team was brought on board during the 12-day cruise to decorate the ship. It was fun to see new decorations every day. No venue on board was ignored. Every where you looked, there were beautiful, high-quality Christmas decorations.

Elaborate Christmas decorations could be found throughout the ship

PRE-CRUISE

Our flight from DFW to Miami was cancelled due to an ice storm in Dallas. We were originally scheduled to arrive in Barcelona two days prior to embarkation but, because of all the flight cancellations, we arrived the day before embarkation. We were met at the Barcelona airport by Jan from Avantgarde Limousine and transferred to our hotel. Of course, AA lost our luggage, so we spent a day in Barcelona in the clothes we had already been wearing for two days. Fortunately, our luggage arrived the morning of embarkation (48 hours late). We spent one night at the Mercer Hotel in Barcelona, an excellent boutique hotel perfectly located for pre-cruise/post-cruise guests. You can read our review of Hotel Mercer here. We also enjoyed a private Segway tour of Barcelona which is one of the best ways to see this amazing city. You can read our review of Barcelona Segway Tour here.

*DFW airport was iced over on our scheduled day of departure*

EMBARKATION

We took a taxi from Hotel Mercer and arrived at the Barcelona Port just after noon, the indicated embarkation time. There was already a line forming outside the terminal building. Baggage handlers took our two large duffel bags, tagged them with our stateroom number and loaded them on a cart. Getting through security was clunky and time consuming. Even though the terminal had three security x-ray machines, only one was in use, which really slowed things down. It took us about 45 minutes just to get through security. Of course, this was not a Crystal Cruises operation, so we can't blame Crystal for the lengthy process. Once we cleared security, we were given a boarding number. There was seating available in the terminal but it filled up quickly, resulting in a lot of guests standing around the room. Guests were being boarded in groups of about 20 at a time. Waiting for our group number to be called took about 30 more minutes. When our number was finally called, we stopped to have our embarkation photo taken, then boarded Crystal Serenity on Deck 6. A staff member greeted us and walked us down the stairs to Deck 5 where we would surrender our passports and receive our stateroom key cards.

Each guest received a boarding group card prior to boarding

We were a little surprised that no crew member offered to carry our hand luggage down the stairs for us. We had our photos taken for the room key cards and were told that our stateroom would be ready at 3pm and that lunch was available on Decks 6 (The Bistro) and Deck 12 (Trident Grill). One of the amenities listed for the Penthouse w/Veranda is a "fast-track check-in onboard ship." I did not see any special line for "fast-track check-in," so I am not sure if we experienced that or not. We were again surprised when we were not offered a glass of 'welcome aboard' champagne. We did see guests walking around enjoying the bubbly. Also, nobody mentioned that there was a space available to temporarily stow our carry-on luggage until our stateroom was ready. We discovered this on our own.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Our Penthouse with Veranda on Deck 10 forward (#10038) reflects a level of attention to detail you rarely find on a cruise ship. Every one of the 403 sq. ft. (including veranda) has been utilized to maximize guest comfort. It starts with the clever electronic Do Not Disturb/Clean Room switch by the front door. No need to fumble with paper signs hanging from the door knob, which by the way, always end up falling on the hallway floor. A classy doorbell alerts you that a visitor has arrived. And most likely, that person ringing the doorbell will be your personal butler. Well, maybe not "personal" as your butler will be taking care of several other guests, too. Nevertheless, your butler is on call 24 hours a day, and will provide you will any or all of the following services:

Unpacking and packing upon request
Confirming dining and spa reservations
Crystal Adventures shore excursion reservation
In-suite afternoon tea service
In-suite pre-dinner cocktail and gourmet canapé service
In-suite dining, including menus from Silk Road and Prego, served by course-by-course
Garment pressing and shoeshine upon request

Our butler, Richard, was always available whenever we needed anything. He greeted us soon after embarkation and made sure our stateroom was stocked with a bottle of our favorite Scotch. Each afternoon around 5pm, Richard would show up with a cart filled with canapés. Rickee mentioned early on that she liked shrimp cocktail. So every day thereafter, a huge plate of cocktail shrimp was waiting for us in our mini fridge complete with a delicious cocktail sauce!

The butler service is just one of the great perks you enjoy when you occupy a Penthouse w/Veranda stateroom. The large walk-in closet can hold enough clothes for a world cruise. There are shelves and drawers on both sides of the closet and three hanging racks. Rickee always needs extra hangers, and all she had to do was mention it to our stewardess, Jujo, and the hangers were delivered promptly. Frette bathrobes, kimonos and slippers are hanging in the closet upon embarkation for guest use during the cruise. We never use the bathrobes, so we had them removed to give us extra hanging space in the closet.

A full-sized sofa faces the queen-sized bed and a nice-sized oval glass-topped coffee table sits between the bed and the sofa. A large and comfortable chair is placed to one side of the coffee table. The coffee table serves a dual purpose for in-suite dining as it can be raised to dining height. The aforementioned queen-sized bed was the only disappointment. The mattress, even though draped in a plush duvet with 100% Egyptian cotton linens, was sagging and worn. You could see visible impressions in the center of each side of the mattresses. We noted a similar issue on Crystal Symphony in 2011. The pillows were too soft for our liking, but a pillow menu offers a variety of firmness and materials and we soon had pillows delivered to our stateroom that were perfect.

*Entertainment center and desk with tons of storage*

A marble desk at one end of the entertainment center is large enough for my laptop. Walk around the corner from the desk and you will find an equally large marble vanity with lighted magnifying makeup mirror that became Rickee's favorite feature of the room. The desk and the vanity are separated by a mirrored wall. The design is ingenious because I could freely walk around the stateroom while Rickee was performing her makeup magic and never had to crawl over the bed, or squeeze behind her. The vanity also had two drawers large enough to hold all of Rickee's creams, powders, pencils and other concoctions.

*Double sinks are a great feature on Crystal*

And, while on the subject of storage, the stateroom has drawers and shelves everywhere you look. There is a multi-drawer dresser beneath the television and a cabinet with shelves above the TV. To the left of the TV, there are more cabinets with shelves. If that's not enough, there are two large drawers in each of the nightstands, and even an end table with two large drawers! This is all in addition to the drawers and shelves in the walk-in closet. We couldn't begin to fill up all the drawers and cabinets.

For in-suite entertainment, the large High-Definition flat-screen Samsung television offers a variety of closed-circuit channels with video feeds from the bridge, a channel replaying the days' lectures, a couple of movie channels, and popular news channels. On our transatlantic crossing, the television programming from the satellite had a few glitches and we were without programming for a few days. Apparently, there were some bugs in the new, larger satellite dish installed during a recent dry dock. A technician was brought on board in St. Maarten and the problems were rectified. The television is connected to a Blu-ray DVD/CD player capable of playing your own DVDs or any of the ones from the large selection available from the ship's library. The operation of the DVD player and television was seamless with a single remote control. There is an iPod docking station, but we could not figure out how to make it work.

Crystal Serenity offers guests Wi-Fi throughout the ship. I was able to connect to the ship's network (and the Internet) from our stateroom with no problem. The Internet connection speeds were acceptable most of the time, with a few periods of dreadfully slow access. Access seemed to be faster in the Lido Cafe where I did most of my work in the mornings.

The lighting system in the stateroom took a little getting used to. Instead of individual light switches, all of the lighting is controlled by light panels placed in various locations throughout the stateroom. Basically, it is an all-or-nothing proposition. There are four different light levels from bright to dim. Various lights throughout the stateroom are turned off or dimmed at each setting. The only exceptions were the desk, vanity, closet and bathroom lights which each had its own on/off switch. A clever night-light button produced a slight glow underneath the vanity/desk to provide just enough light to see your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

*Lighting is controlled by switches placed throughout stateroom*

One of the nits we picked on Crystal Symphony in 2011 was the balcony furniture. Well, someone at Crystal must be listening because the furnishings on our Serenity balcony were the nicest we have seen on any ship. Large wicker chairs with foot stools were outfitted with padded cushions.

Other amenities of the Penthouse w/Veranda include:

Free Crystal email
24- hour room service
Two telephones
Order-in from specialty restaurants Silk Road and Prego
Wireless Internet and data port for laptop computer hook-up
Riedel stemware
Fresh flower bud vase
Guaranteed preferred dining in the Crystal Dining room
Complimentary welcome bottle of champagne upon arrival
Dining at an Officer table upon request
Complimentary soft drinks, beer and bottled water in room
Crystal Spa in-suite massage (Spa rates apply)
Complimentary wine plus choice of spirits upon embarkation
Security safe
Fresh fruit basket replenished throughout voyage upon request
Mohair blanket
Binoculars
Hairdryer
Personal stationery upon request
Twice-daily housekeeping including evening turndown service
Self-service launderettes (exclusive to Penthouse Deck)
Fast-track Check-in on board ship
Complimentary champagne and lunch for early embarkation

Overall, the Penthouse w/Veranda stateroom on Crystal Serenity gets a 5-out-of-5 rating from us. It is one of the most comfortable staterooms/suites of any ship on which we have sailed to date. It is well worth noting that, in a cruise industry first, Crystal offers 70 deluxe verandah staterooms that have been transformed into hypoallergenic luxury accommodations with a comprehensive, chemical-and odor-free indoor environment solution and allergy-friendly bedding. PURE® Marine Solutions implemented a seven-step air and surface purification process in each of these 70 rooms to remove allergens and reduce the risk of irritants. There is a state-of-the-art medical grade air purifier discreetly installed in each of these PURE staterooms which eliminate 99.9% of all airborne impurities, thus enhancing the overall relaxation experience. There is no additional cost for occupying one of the Deluxe PURE staterooms. In addition, effective with the first cruises of 2014, Crystal Cruises expands its non-smoking policy to eliminate smoking in all indoor areas, except for the Connoisseur Club smoking lounge.

FOOD AND DINING

Food is an important part of any vacation, and even more so on a cruise. We found the dining experience on Crystal Symphony in 2011 to be very good and we would have to say that the same is true of Crystal Serenity in 2013.

Crystal Dining Room

The Crystal Dining Room is the "traditional" restaurant on board Serenity. Guests can enjoy the traditional "early" or "late" seating options, or flexible dining is offered, as well, with open-seating. The Crystal Dining Room offers a lot of two-top tables for intimate dining. However, many of the two-top tables are placed in close proximity to each other, so it is almost like dining with the couple next to you. We also noticed this table arrangement in the Lido Cafe and Tastes. There are a few two-top tables that are located away from other tables for a more intimate experience. We prefer the table located in the far back corner of the dining room (#42). it is sort of hidden back in a little cove and it is much quieter and away from the traffic of the dining room. The Crystal Dining Room can get a bit noisy during peak dining periods.

The food quality in the Crystal Dining Room was a bit schizophrenic. We were somewhat disappointed in our lunch visits each time we dined here. The evening meals, however, were superb, even better than we remembered on Symphony. The Grand Gala Buffet held in Crystal Plaza on one of the last sea days was lavish and beautiful! Anything you wanted in the way of food seemed to be available for the taking, from sushi to carved beef and everything in between.

Service was excellent, day or night. The wine steward quickly took note that we like Riesling and made sure that a bottle was available upon each of our visits to the dining room.

The Crystal Dining Room is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day. It was closed for lunch on days in port.

Lido Cafe

The Lido Cafe is Serenity's buffet dining venue located on Deck 12 aft and serving breakfast and lunch each day. During the ship's recent "Extreme Makeover", the existing Lido Cafe was demolished and extended forward to increase space for all new service and seating areas. A variety of modern food "islands" (or stations) replace the long buffet counters and offer the same food on both port and starboard sides. The Lido Cafe offers mostly two-top tables and there is outdoor seating aft for al fresco dining. The layout is very well arranged and there are no long buffet lines to delay the dining process. Another innovation is the lighting which is carefully designed to showcase the food and makes the Lido Cafe Crystal's first LED low-energy lit restaurant.

Food quality in the Lido Cafe was very good for a buffet. For those of you who follow our blog and reviews, you know that neither Rickee nor myself are big fans of buffet-style dining. Nevertheless, we found the food choices and quality to be at the top of what you will find on cruise ship buffets. We were a little disappointed that there were no "theme" buffets like we had experienced on Crystal Symphony. Our butler told us that one day was an Asian theme, but it was not advertised in the daily Reflections and, when we visited the Lido Cafe, we could not determine that there was any Asian theme.

Breakfast served in the Lido Cafe was excellent. Unlike most cruise ship buffets, there were no bland scrambled eggs on the buffet. All egg dishes where cooked to order, they way it should be on a luxury cruise ship! There is an excellent selection of fresh fruit, amazing fresh-baked pastries and breads, and cereals. Fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee are delivered to the table by Lido wait staff. We found the service in the Lido Cafe to be excellent. For some reason, our preferred Riesling was not available in the Lido Cafe, or any dining venue on Deck 12.

I visited the Lido Cafe each morning with MacBook Pro in tow. This became my early morning blogging station. As some of you know, I travel with my own coffee and French coffee press. The main reason why I go to this trouble is that most cruise ships have lousy coffee. Don't ask me why, but they do. Not so on Crystal. I tried the coffee in the Lido Cafe on a couple of days and it was very good. Nevertheless, I had my own coffee and press, so I used it each day. Jun, a smiling member of the Lido waitstaff, was always there when I arrived around 5:30am and would greet me each morning. By the time I was finished with my coffee, Osvaldo, another fine member of the Lido waitstaff, would come on duty and always offered to clean my French press for me. This is excellent service that I did not even have to request; it was offered to me. Of course, Jun and Osvaldo always offered to bring me orange juice, or anything else I wanted.

The Bistro

The Bistro is a casual dining venue on Deck 5. Each morning, the Bistro offers a continental breakfast. In the afternoon, the Bistro offers charcuterie, international cheeses and freshly baked desserts. From 6-8pm you will find cured meats, prosciutto, international cheeses, all served with premium wines and champagne. The snacking continue from 8-11pm with artisanal cheeses accompanied with chutneys, honey, plus an assortment of fresh fruit and desserts. Late night munchies, served from 11pm to 12am include mini-sandwiches, pizzas, tandoori chicken and beef sliders. Every time we walked through The Bistro we visited the "tower 'o cupcakes".

Trident Bar & Grill

The Trident Bar & Grill is not your typical cruise ship pool grill. Sure, they have burgers, hot dogs, fries, chicken sandwiches and the like. But there is style to Trident that puts the ultra-casual dining experience on a whole different level. What used to be a covered swimming pool on Deck 12 is now a plush, garden-like dining environment with comfortable white wicker furnishings. An innovative aspect of Serenity's Trident al fresco area, is the presence of four "living walls". One wall serves as a live herb garden for the onboard chefs to utilize. The walls definitely provide a touch of "green" and a nice backdrop for the American Riviera-style lounge seating in this area. The retractable sunroof remains closed so you are not exposed to the elements, but there's lots of natural sunlight pouring through. A waiter will take your order at the counter where you make your selections from an HD monitor. You are then given a number to place on your table for identification. Once seated, another waiter will take your drink order. Orders are delivered to your table.

We enjoyed lunch at Trident on at least four of the 12 days. It was just so darn convenient, plus, they begin lunch service at 11:30am. We were very pleased to discover that the minute steak sandwich was much improved over the one we tried on Symphony in 2011. Back then, we could not even cut the steak with a knife, and the cut of meat was very thinly sliced. On Serenity, however, our minute steaks were about 1/2 inch thick, cooked perfectly, tender and delicious.

*Chips and salsa are available from the relish bar*

Onion rings and sweet potato fries have been added to the menu since our last cruise. The lack of onion rings was something I mentioned in my last review as a disappointment, so I was pleased to see them being offered now. However, they are the pre-packaged, mushy onion rings, like you find at Burger King. They appear to be constructed of breaded onion puree formed into small rings. They are better than no onion rings at all, but not going to win any awards. The sweet potato fries, on the other hand, are absolutely delicious.

Notwithstanding my onion ring nit-picking, the Trident Bar & Grill is one of our favorite lunch venues on Crystal Serenity. The burger was thick, juicy and served on delicious fresh bun. And, Rickee was all smiles after devouring her chili-dog on one visit. Another cool feature is the relish bar where you can get mustard, mayo, ketchup, relish, cole slaw and even chips and salsa. Fresh fruit is also available.

Prego

Prego is Crystal's signature Italian fine dining restaurant. Located aft on Deck 7, this classy, intimate venue is popular with Crystal guests. And for good reason. The service and food here are both excellent. We only visited Prego once during our 12-night sailing and everything was as we remembered from our 2011 Symphony cruise. My Warm Lobster Poached in Sage Butter starter was delicious, and almost large enough to be a main course. The same was true of Rickee's Carpaccio of Black Angus Beef. No meal at Prego is complete without their signature mushroom soup served in a crusty bread bowl. The rich, creamy soup is infused with large chunks of varioust types of mushrooms. And the best part, you can eat the bowl! My Roasted Rack of Baby Lamb was perfectly cooked with a thick, impeccably seasoned crust. Rickee's Pan Fried Filet of Striped Bass was equally delicious. After three courses, we barely had enough room left for the souffle we had ordered.

Prego is one of the best Italian-themed dining venues at sea, so it is no surprise that it is so popular with Crystal guests. Reservations are required to dine in Prego. We recommend making those reservations before your cruise embarks by using Crystal's website. By the time this review is published, Crystal will have implemented a new policy regarding dining in Prego. Guests will be invited to dine once per cruise on a complimentary basis. Guests making subsequent visits to Prego will be charged a $30 fee. Of course, there are some exceptions to this policy depending on the length of the cruise, the number of cruises you've had with Crystal, your stateroom category, etc.

Silk Road

Adjacent to Prego on Deck 7 aft is Crystal's Nobu-inspired Asian restaurant, Silk Road. As with Prego, reservations are needed to dine in Silk Road. However, Silk Road does offer one little secret. There is a sushi bar at Silk Road that seats ten guests. No reservations are required to dine at the sushi bar and the full Silk Road menu is available. We found this option too convenient to pass up. On a couple of nights, we were not hungry enough for a full dinner in the dining room, so we would pop into Silk Road for a sushi roll. A team of Sushi chefs expertly prepare a wide variety of fresh fish dishes right in front of you.

*All sushi, like my Spicy Tuna Roll, are made fresh to order*

The main restaurant at Silk Road is classy and the menu is upscale Asian cuisine inspired by Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The menu at Silk Road includes Nobu classics such as Kawarayaki, and grilled Wagyu Beef with a choice of dipping sauces. When you dine at a Nobu restaurant, this dish is grilled table side; however, at Silk Road, most likely for safety reasons, the dish is prepared in the galley and delivered already cooked. Either way, the fork-tender slices of Wagyu are so delicious that the accompanying sauces are not even needed. Rickee and I both agree that the Black Cod with Miso Glaze is perhaps the best seafood dish on the planet. If you are not sure what to try, order the Nobu Box which gives you a chance to try the Wagyu beef, Black Cod and Shrimp. All dishes are accompanied by a bowl of delicious Jasmine rice, just sticky enough to eat with chopsticks.

As with Prego, guests are invited to dine in Silk Road once per cruise on a complimentary basis. If you wish to return to Silk Road, there will be a $30 fee per person assessed. I was hoping that the additional fee would not apply to those who dined at the sushi bar, but the fee does apply, no matter where you dine in Silk Road. Again, certain exceptions to this policy exist as mentioned above with Prego.

Tastes

Tastes is Crystal Serenity's newest dining experience. This open-kitchen venue was added during Serenity's recent dry dock and occupies the starboard side of Deck 12 midship, just forward of the Lido Cafe. Its Global Cuisine comfort food menu was created in partnership with Sapphire Restaurant in Laguna Beach, California, where acclaimed chef, Azmin Ghahreman, offers cuisine with accents from around the globe. Tastes is open for late breakfast and lunch. I understand the timing of the late-riser breakfast service from 10:00am to 11:00am, but the 1:00pm lunch service leaves me scratching my head. Perhaps Crystal feels that the later start time will thin out the crowd at Tastes? In any case, we did have lunch at Tastes one afternoon. Waiters take orders on iPods that apparently transfer the order to the kitchen. The system seems to work pretty well, maybe too well! On our visit, we received duplicates of everything we ordered! I thought I would test Tastes' ability to do something out of the ordinary. I ordered the Caesar with Shrimp, but requested grilled chicken instead of shrimp. No problem, my salad arrived as ordered. The salad was large and delicious. Rickee's Margherita pizza was not quite as impressive. The pizza was hot, and good, but not great. It resembled a frozen pizza that had been heated in an oven. One of the specialties at Tastes is the noodle stir-fry, which we unfortunately did not have the opportunity to try.

When we arrive at Tastes for dinner one evening, we are amazed at how the casual lunch venue had been transformed into a romantic, classy restaurant. Each table is candlelit and the blue lighting in the ceiling really creates an interesting atmosphere. Tastes has one of the most unique evening menus you will find anywhere and the food is served on small plates in portions that are designed to be shared. Our waiter was kind enough to make some selections from the menu of globally-Inspired cuisine. We started with a trio of appetizers, a smoked salmon dish, an octopus salad and Caesar salad fondue. The first "course' was soon followed with an "Alsatian Tarte" that looked more like a flatbread with sauteed leeks, Gruyère cheese, Bechemel and bacon. Then came the lamb kabobs. The food just kept coming! The highlight was the Chimichurri steak which was fork tender and delicious. The finale was the Bananas Foster Bread Pudding with vanilla bean ice cream. We could barely stagger back to the stateroom! If you sail on Crystal Serenity, make sure to book reservations at Tastes.

Room Service

Crystal offers a nice 24-hour room service menu. Of course, the most popular meal for room service is breakfast. Breakfast order cards can be placed on your stateroom door before retiring and breakfast will be delivered to your stateroom the next morning at the desired time. However, there are times when you may not want to get dressed for dinner. This is where Crystal's Room Service really comes to life, and where booking a Penthouse-level stateroom or suite really pays off. Penthouse guests can order dinner from the evening menu at Crystal Dining Room, Prego or Silk Road. I can't think of any other cruise line that offers this level of room service choice.

One evening we decided to stay in our beautiful stateroom and watch a DVD movie from the ship's library. We called Richard, our butler, on the phone and ordered room service. Rickee ordered a caviar appetizer from the Crystal Dining Room menu and I ordered the Mushroom Soup and Rack of Lamb from Prego's menu. Within 30 minutes, Richard was ringing our doorbell and, soon thereafter, our coffee table was raised and converted to a linen-covered dining table. Everything arrived perfectly prepared and absolutely delicious. We had a similar experience two years earlier on Crystal Symphony. In our opinion, Crystal has the best room service of any cruise line.

Afternoon Tea

The Palm Court on Deck 12 forward becomes the perfect setting for an Afternoon Tea each day from 3:30pm to 4:30pm. Tables are covered in linen and wait staff are in tuxedo with white gloves for the service. A choice of teas are offered along with finger sandwiches, scones, cookies and other treats.

Scoops Ice Cream Bar

No review would be complete without mentioning Scoops, the ice cream bar located in the Trident Bar and Grill on Deck 12, where Crystal guests are treated to a variety of Ben & Jerry's popular flavors, and the ice cream is complimentary! The Triple Caramel Crunch is hands down the best flavor. We felt that it was necessary to try the ice cream each day, just for journalistic integrity, of course. The ice cream can be served in a cone or a cup and a large variety of toppings are available to complete the treat.

Bar Service

Now that Crystal has implemented a new all-inclusive drink policy, guests are no longer required to surrender their key card and sign a ticket each time they order a drink. We found the bar service throughout the ship to be excellent. There was one small hiccup when I ordered a Dewar's on the rocks the first night and was told by the waiter that Dewar's was not available on the ship. I was a little surprised since our butler provided a bottle of Dewar's in our stateroom. Nevertheless, I ordered Johnny Walker until two days before the end of the cruise when I discovered, from another bar waitress, that Dewar's IS available.

When you order a Scotch, you get a very generous pour each time. All drinks we ordered were very good.

ENTERTAINMENT

One area in which we noticed improvement was Crystal's entertainment. Perhaps it was because we were on a transatlantic sailing with nine days at sea, but Crystal Serenity Cruise Director, Gary Hunter, pulled out all the stops and had something interesting each and every evening. The highlight of the entertainment had to be the Production Shows starring the Crystal Ensemble of Singers and Dancers featuring Sara K. Story and Eric Strong. The Galaxy Orchestra provided the music for these shows (mostly) and were often accompanied by the Astoria String Quartet, a group of talented female musicians. The Astoria String Quartet also performed daily in other venues around the ship. Nightly shows in the Galaxy Theater were usually held twice: the first show for those eating a late dinner and a second show for those who dined earlier.

Other shows featured a variety of entertainers ranging from 12-year-old virtuoso pianist, Umi Garrett, to a fantastic Elton John impersonator, Jonathan Kane. There were also amazing up-close magic performances by Magic Castle's Mark Haslam. Classical guitarist, George Sakellariou, and classical violinist, Hanna Starosta, provided beautiful music and the vocal duo, Journey South, were great. Vocal performances by Toni Warne and by Joe West were featured. A special highlight was a ventriloquist performance by Cruise Director, Gary Hunter!

The "Big Band" theme of our voyage called for a "Big Band" orchestra. The Tommy Dorsey Band filled this bill and provided music for dancing in the Palm Court most evenings. The Crystal Sextet also played music daily for dancing in the Palm Court and the Stardust Club. Hal Fraser entertained in the Avenue Saloon and DJ Edgar held down the fort in the Pulse disco. Scott Mitchel played the piano in Crystal Cove.

*The Crystal Ensemble of Singers & Dancers performs a number from the musical Cats*

ACTIVITIES AND ENRICHMENT

There is no better test for a cruise director and his/her staff than a transatlantic sailing. Days at sea can become boring if nothing is going on around the ship. Not to worry on Crystal. Gary Hunter and his staff offered guests a variety of activities, lectures, movies and enrichment experiences throughout this sailing.

Computer University @ Sea - Crystal guests are invited to participate in a series of computer software classes during days at sea. A transatlantic sailing is the perfect time to brush up on computer skills. The classroom has more than 20 new iMac computers capable of running Mac OS or Windows.

Hollywood Theater Movies - The Hollywood Theater on Deck 6 became our favorite afternoon movie spot. Each day, a different movie was presented here. The 210-person theater offers very comfortable seating, a large screen, great sound, and popcorn! What more could you want?

Lecture Series - On days at sea, we enjoyed a wide variety of lectures by noted experts on a variety of interesting topics ranging from politics to brain health to the Royal Family of England to the history of Big Band. Lectures were held in the Hollywood Theater on Deck 6 and most found the theater filled to capacity. Crystal tapes the lectures and makes them available for viewing on the stateroom televisions. This is a great feature since there are so many activities scheduled for the same time period during each day. You can take part in something else and still be able to "attend" the lectures without leaving the comfort of your stateroom. Nice!

*Dr. Jeffrey Cummings from Cleveland Clinic in Las Vegas spoke on how to improve brain health*

Exercise Classes - For those who want to continue their fitness routines while on board the ship, Crystal provides many ways to accomplish this. There are a variety of fitness classes offered each day, including the "Walk on Water" program using the WALKVEST and the Nordic Walking Program. Pilates and Yoga classes are offered. Stretching sessions, stationary bicycle classes, Body Sculpt boot camp were offered and informational seminars were offered on such topics as flattening your abs, detoxing and the benefits of acupuncture. Crystal Serenity also has a nicely-equipped fitness center on Deck 13.

Various other activities filled each day including:

Bingo
Team Trivia
Berlitz Spanish classes
Bridge lessons
Art lessons using Watercolor
Scarf-tying
Napkin folding
Oragami lessons
Golf clinics and golf simulator
Table tennis and Paddle tennis tournaments
Casino gaming lessons and slot tournaments
Needlepoint and knitting sessions

Since ours was a Big Band theme cruise, there was no shortage of ballroom dancers onboard. Twice each day, dancing lessons were offered, one session for beginners and the other for more advanced dancers. No partner was necessary for anyone to attend these classes as Crystal provides partners in the form of Ambassador Hosts. There were eight male Ambassador Hosts on this cruise and, for the first time, there were actually two female Ambassador Hostesses to dance with the men.

SPA AND SALON

The Crystal Spa & Salon, located on Deck 13 aft, is operated by Elemis. And, the only way to get to it is by using the aft elevators/staircase. Rickee and I both indulged in the offerings of the spa and the salon. Rickee got a haircut ($85) in the salon, while I enjoyed a Shiatsu massage ($140) in the spa. My Shiatsu massage was 50 minutes of serious muscle relaxation. Before the massage, I had the opportunity to enjoy the complimentary steam and sauna in the men's locker room. This is probably the best steam and sauna I have experienced on any ship. The locker room is very nice with plenty of lockers and showers. However, the locker key they provide when you check-in at the spa desk, does not have a wristband, and the robes provided do not have pockets, so where to put the key when you are in the steam, sauna or shower? My massage was very good, even though I prefer a Swedish massage to Shiatsu. The only Swedish massage offered was a 75-minute/$245 massage. I love a Swedish massage, but not that much. After the massage, I did get the typical Elemis sales pitch for their line of products that would "benefit" me.

PORTS OF CALL

On our 12-night sailing, we only visited two ports: Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Philipsburg, St. Maarten. Crystal Serenity was docked in Santa Cruz, but tendered in St. Maarten. There were eight other ships in port on the day we visited Philipsburg. Needless to say, it was crowded in town!

STAFF AND CREW

As you might expect on a 5-star cruise line, the staff and crew on Crystal Serenity were friendly, helpful and engaging.

THE GOOD AND THE BAD

The Good

All-inclusive policy is a hit
New smoking (or non-smoking) policy
Best staterooms of any cruise line
Excellent 5-star service
Great dining options
Incredible room service

The Bad

No Fast Track Check-In as advertised
Mattresses were worn and in need of replacement
Daily menus and activity schedule should be displayed on stateroom TV

SUMMARY

The new, all-inclusive policy (gratuities and beverages included) not only makes Crystal a better value than before, it secures a place among the "Big Four" luxury cruise brands. By the time this review is published, Crystal will have implemented its new smoking policy, restricting the activity to a few designated outer deck areas and the Connoisseur Club. That means no more smoking in staterooms or balconies. In some of these areas, Crystal is playing catch-up with the competition. But, in other areas, Crystal is clearly leading the pack. When it comes to the combination of guest comfort, dining, entertainment, attentive service and value, Crystal leads the industry

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 9/14/13 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 9/14/13

Pacific Northwest Cruise aboard UnCruise S.S. Legacy

We go old school on a seven-night Pacific Northwest cruise with UnCruise Adventures.

Itinerary: Portland, Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, River Cruising, Clarkston/Hell's Canyon, Walla Walla, The Dalles, Astoria

There are so many things to love about river cruising: no rocking or rolling motion to contend with; smaller, more intimate ships; going through interesting locks; docking right in the middle of a town, and more. And, when you don't have to fly 10 hours to Europe to experience a river cruise, it's even better! The two most popular river cruises in America are the Mississippi River and the Columbia & Snake Rivers. We experienced our first Columbia & Snake River cruise in 2006 aboard a sternwheeler (which is no longer in operation). We enjoyed the destination so much that we jumped at the opportunity to sail on Un-Cruise Adventures' S.S. Legacy for a 7-night "un-cruise".

THE SHIP

The S.S. Legacy was built in 1983 by Bender Shipbuilding, and until its demise, was operated by Cruise West as the Spirit of '98. The ship was acquired by Un-Cruise Adventures and underwent a major refurbishment. As soon as you step aboard Legacy, it is evident that the ship has been adorned with fresh paint over the entire exterior. A bold black smoke stack with gold star contrasts with the bright white hull. The ship's design has a retro "old-timey" look that really sets it apart from anything else on the river, or anywhere else she sails (Legacy is also scheduled to sail in Alaska during summer months.)

The Legacy has 45 staterooms to accommodate up to 88 guests. A crew of 34-35 gives a 2.5:1 guest-to-crew ratio. At 192 feet long and 40 feet wide, S.S. Legacy is small by cruise ship standards, but this is an "un-cruise", so those rules don't apply. The ship underwent a massive refurbishment which consisted of the aforementioned fresh paint, the addition of a few new public spaces (e.g. The Pesky Barnacle), new dining room carpet, a new owner's suite, a lot of mechanical and engineering overhauls, new bridge electronics and some new carpet and wallpaper in some cabins, just to name a few.

We boarded the vessel on Deck 4 (Bridge Deck), the topmost deck. Deck 4 is where you will find the Wheelhouse (bridge) forward, and a makeshift fitness center/exercise area aft. Amidship on Deck 4 you will find two hot tubs and some comfortable seating. There are stairs leading to Deck 3 which primarily consists of staterooms and a promenade deck that wraps around the entire ship. If you like taking a morning walk, this would be the deck. Deck 2 is where you will find The Grand Salon, the ship's main lounge that is the hub of activity on Legacy. The Grand Salon features a very well-stocked bar serving complimentary cocktails and soft drinks throughout the day. There is a small "gift shop" with some logo items here and a shelf with a selection of DVD movies available for guest use. There is also self-serve coffee and tea available 24 hours a day.

Deck 1 is where everyone congregates three times a day for meals in the Klondike Dining Room. The dining room is comfortable, with tables set for 4 or 6. There are no two-top tables. Just forward of the dining room is The Pesky Barnacle Saloon. The Pesky Barnacle is an interesting little retreat with a poker table, some other game tables and a selection of self-serve whiskies along with beer on tap.

*Whiskey and Beer on tap in The Pesky Barnacle*

The ship does have an elevator that traverses decks 1 through 3, but not Deck 4. Getting to/from Deck 4 requires the use of the somewhat steep stairs.

The ship maintains an "open bridge" policy and guests are invited to visit the Wheelhouse while the vessel is underway. However, when the ship is going through locks or docking procedures, the wheelhouse is restricted to crew only.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are six stateroom categories aboard the S.S. Legacy: Master; Commander; Captain; Admiral; and Junior Commodore Suite, and Owner's Suite. Depending on the category, singles, doubles, triples, or quadruples can be accommodated. Our stateroom (105) was a Commander category located on Deck 1. By any standard, this cabin is small, perhaps the smallest cabin we have ever occupied. The "queen" bed, which looks and feels more like a full-size bed, is positioned up against the hull side of the cabin below a small curtain-covered window and up against the wall at the head and foot of the bed, too. This makes for some interesting maneuvers should the person sleeping "against the wall" need to get out of bed in the middle of the night. They have to crawl over the person sleeping on the outside. As the person sleeping on the outside, I can attest to how painful this "knee in the groin" operation can be. A better choice for couples would be to book the two twin beds, which are separated by a small nightstand.

A single armoire with three drawers on the bottom and a small closet on the top provide the majority of storage for the room. There is also a nightstand with three drawers and there are two wide drawers built into the bed base. The drawers themselves are designed so that you have to lift up before they will pull out. This takes some getting used to. Obviously, they were built this way to prevent the drawers from inadvertently flying open in rough seas. There is some additional storage behind the headboard, which folds forward. This is where the life vests are stored, but there is room for a backpack or other gear you may need to stow. There is ample room under the bed to stow empty luggage. However, if you are occupying a Commander stateroom, pack light.

The bathroom, too, is small with a toilet adjacent to the small shower enclosed with a shower curtain. Other than a shelf above the toilet, there is no storage to speak of in the bathroom. Shampoo, conditioner and liquid soap are available from dispensers mounted to the shower wall, but a horizontal bar positioned below the dispensers makes it very difficult to get the desired liquid out. If you use body lotion, bring it with you. None is provided. Also, it would be wise to bring along a pair of house shoes (like some hotels provide.) Bathrobes are provided but not slippers.

*Grab bar under liquids makes it difficult to dispense liquids*

The first night, we noticed the cabin was very warm, in spite of the A/C being set to its coldest setting and the fan on Hi. We mentioned this to the Hotel Manager on Day 3 and when we returned to the room it was nice and cold. Apparently, the fan switch was not working in the Hi position, Medium and Low worked fine. Problem solved. Well, not quite. On the last two days of the trip, none of the fan settings worked. Fortunately, outside temps had cooled so that it was not a big issue. I am confident that if we had mentioned it to the Hotel Manager it would have been fixed straight away.

There is small flat screen television mounted on the wall at the foot of the bed. The TV has a built-in DVD player and the ship has a selection of complimentary DVD movies available. We didn't have any TV channels available on our voyage. On the nightstand, there is a digital alarm clock with an iPod dock. There is no telephone in the cabin but, should you need help, there an emergency button you can push which goes directly to the Bridge. Two reusable water bottles are provided and you can fill them from the tap in your bathroom or the bartender will fill them for you if you take them to the Grand Salon. A pair of binoculars is provided for guest use, a nice addition for Alaska cruises. There were two 110 outlets in our cabin located near the floor in front of the armoire. This made it necessary to place items being recharged on the floor or inside one of the drawers. Location of outlets probably varies in each cabin. There were two additional outlets in the bathroom that you could use to plug in the provided hair dryer.

Each cabin has a loudspeaker system through which you can hear announcements or narration about the scenery where you are sailing. There is a switch that you can use should you want to hear music or you can choose to turn the system off entirely. If you choose to leave the system turned on, you will be advised by an announcement each morning that it is thirty minutes before breakfast is served and another when it is time to eat. The "do not disturb" designator is a piece of rope tied into a knot that you slip over the outside handle of your cabin door. This "No Knock Knot" means just what its name says. However, even with the knot deployed on our door, a stewardess walked into the cabin one morning to make up the room. You can lock the door from the inside but apparently we had neglected to do this. On the positive side, you don't have a room key that you have to keep up with!

Anyone occupying a cabin on Deck 1 should be aware that you will be exposed to a LOT of mechanical noise. When the ship lowers or raises the anchor, you will know it. In addition, you will think the world is coming to an end when the bow thrusters are in use. And, the bow thrusters are engaged whenever the ship passes through the locks on the river, which can occur at four in the morning, as we learned on our second night. If a restful night's sleep is of utmost importance to you, book a cabin on Deck 2, 3 or 4.

DINING

Dining on S.S. Legacy, and all Un-Cruise vessels for that matter, is very simple and straightforward. A substantial Early Riser's Breakfast is set up in The Grand Salon at 6:30am consisting of cereals, fruit, toast, pastry and a couple of hot dishes that change each day.

A full breakfast is served each morning at 7:30am* in the Klondike Dining Room. Each morning a daily special is offered for breakfast, or you can always order eggs made-to-order, bacon, sausage, toast, etc. Lunch is served at 12:30pm in the dining room and generally consists of a choice between a salad and a sandwich. We had lunch on four days out of seven and everything we ordered was very good. Each afternoon at 5:30pm the Grand Salon is set for the Cocktail Hour before dinner. Each night features a variety of snacks to enjoy along with your favorite cocktail. These "snacks" can be pretty substantial. One night there were two huge platters of crab claws with drawn butter and cocktail sauce. I did not make it to dinner that night! Dinner is served each evening at 6:30pm and the menu, which changes daily, consists of a salad or soup, a choice of three main courses, and dessert. We went to dinner four evenings, and again, everything we had was very good. The Prime Rib the first night was very tender and flavorful, as was my New York Strip steak on the third evening.

It would appear that Un-Cruise attempts to focus on executing a simple menu very well as opposed to offering a complicated "fancy" menu that is difficult to deliver. The dishes are straightforward American cuisine for the most part. No heavy sauces or French influence here. This is a smart strategy. A lot of "cruise" lines attempt to execute a menu that is above the tastes of most guests, and beyond the skill level of the galley brigade. The food offerings follow the "un-cruise" theme in that this is not like a traditional "cruise". The Un-Cruise Adventure dining experience is not a culinary journey, it is just good food that is well executed. As for a dress code for the dining room, there is none. On our voyage, it was not unusual to see people having dinner wearing shorts. Jeans were commonplace attire. This is a very casual cruise.

*times may vary depending on daily schedule

ENTERTAINMENT

As with most river cruises, and small ship cruises in general, entertainment is limited compared to large cruise ships. But then, this is an "un-cruise", right? On most evenings, after dinner, guests are invited to gather in the Grand Salon for an enrichment lecture or video presentation about the area and its people during the time of Lewis and Clark. On one evening, we were treated to a lively talent show where crew members and guests entertained us with song, comedy and story telling. Another fun treat occurs when Heritage Guides, Ryan Downs and Erica, portray characters from the rich history of the area by dressing in period costumes and performing "vignettes" about things occurring during the time in history when the riverboats were prevalent. Heritage Guide, Larry West, who dresses in period garb each day, is very knowledgeable about the area where we are sailing and narrates about the environment, wildlife, history and culture of the region. Ryan and Larry also provide a lot of information while we are traveling on the motor coach regarding what we are seeing and will see at our destination. During mealtime, the wait staff even get into the spirit of things and dress up with the women wearing feather boas, fancy hats and tiaras and the men wearing bow ties, suspenders and fedoras.

ACTIVITIES

The main activity on an Un-Cruise adventure centers around the destination. On all but one day, the Legacy was docked in a different port and guests were invited to attend a shore excursion or local tour. All excursions are included in the cruise fare, making an Un-Cruise adventure a real value. Motor coaches are provided for the tours and extra attention is given to those with special needs or mobility issues. For details about the various tours, read our daily blog entries (see below). There are two hot tubs on Deck 4 and a small covered exercise area with two stationary bicycles and two elliptical machines. This is the area where the daily yoga sessions are held. A dry sauna is found on Deck 3. If you are up for a little pampering, a complimentary massage is available, either full body or neck and shoulder chair massage provided by the Wellness Staff. DVDs, books and board games are available in the Grand Salon and a poker table and chess board could be found in the Pesky Barnacle Saloon.

THE UN-CRUISE ADVENTURES EXPERIENCE

No matter what you are looking for in an "un-cruise" experience, Un-Cruise Adventures most likely can meet your needs. Un-Cruise offers different styles of adventures intended to inspire and satisfy a curious nature. This includes Active Adventures focused on experiencing life on the outside. Luxury Adventures are voyages loaded with extra amenities, soft-adventure and exclusive outings. Heritage Adventures bring the past to life afloat and ashore with Interpretive and Living History programs. Our Columbia and Snake River voyage was a Heritage Adventure and seemed to attract, for the most part, an older clientele and is also well suited for this with mobility issues. Hiking, paddle boarding and kayaking are not offered on S.S. Legacy.

SUMMARY

We base our ratings on our own experiences and our perceptions compared to our past experiences. In addition, we also take into consideration the comments we hear from other guests during a cruise. One thing is clear: Un-Cruise Adventures has a growing base of loyal followers. The company is purposely trying to appeal to those who find the traditional large ship cruise experience is not for them. Nearly everyone we spoke with said they would never go on a large cruise ship, or they had been on one and would never do it again. This is an interesting niche: a cruise for people who do not like to cruise, at least in the traditional sense. The "Un-Cruise" moniker seems fitting.

This was our third sailing with "Un-Cruise" and each one has been quite unique. We loved both the Alaska and Sea of Cortes experiences. The Columbia & Snake River sailing is much less "adventure" and more informational and sedate by comparison. The same will be true of this ship when she sails to Alaska. There will be no kayaking or paddle-boarding off the stern of S.S. Legacy. This ship is for those who want a more relaxing way to experience a destination. This sailing proves that there is an audience for such an experience and the S.S. Legacy is a perfect fit.

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/3/13 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 8/3/13

A Greek Isles Dream Cruise with SeaDream Yacht Club

We enjoy a magical Greek Island cruise aboard SeaDream Yacht Club.

Rickee, senior editor, cruisereport.com on the deck of seadream I

Itinerary: Athens, Itea (Delphi), Sarande (Butrint), Katakolon (Olympia), Gythion, Monemvasia, Piraeus (Athens)

My first memory of SeaDream Yacht Club is from January of 2003. We boarded SeaDream II in St. Thomas and it was our first small ship experience. To say the least, we were apprehensive. I can still remember at the cocktail reception on the first night, Captain Dahl rode into the lounge on a Segway wearing a Viking helmet! It was an image I will never forget. Captain Dahl was larger than life, and he is missed by all who knew him. SeaDream was a young cruise line and there were only 34 guests on that sailing. Imagine a crew of 90 serving 34 guests! Our first small ship, or yacht, experience became one of our most memorable trips ever.

Since that first cruise, we have sailed with SeaDream a total of five times, and each time has been something special. You may wonder why a cruise journalist would go back on the same cruise line, or ship, multiple times. Things can change over time. There can be staff changes, ownership changes, changes in the company policies and product and of course, ships do get older. It is important for our consumer audience to know about the changes over time, good or bad.

The Greek Isles is the perfect destination to explore on SeaDream

So after ten years, how has SeaDream changed? Is it better? Is the SeaDream experience the same today as it was in 2003? The answers is not a simple one. Actually, yes and no. Captain Dahl has passed on and that is a loss. The unlimited tins of caviar that were served every night at the cocktail reception have been scaled back to a couple of times during a 7-night cruise. The signature Pomeroy champagne has been replaced with a lesser-known brand. And, there seems to be a little more emphasis on generating revenue on board than there was back in the day. But, the important characteristics that make this a 5-star cruise line, and consistently one of our picks as Editor's Choice, remain. Many of the staff and crew are the same people that were sailing when the cruise line started. The attention to service and guest satisfaction is unmatched in the industry. And, the quality of food remains extremely high.

One big thing that SeaDream has now that it did not have ten years ago is a large (and growing) loyal customer base. Nearly half of the 104 guests on our cruise had sailed with SeaDream before, and some had hundreds of nights sailing with SeaDream. Nothing says more about a cruise line than loyal clientele, and SeaDream has a foundation of true believers in the brand.

The Ship

SeaDream Yacht Club operates two identical 112-guest yachts. The yachts themselves have a glorious history starting in the 80’s when they were first built as the Sea Goddess I and Sea Goddess II. Later, the ships were acquired by Cunard and then by sister company Seabourn before being sold in 2001 to SeaDream Yacht Club. SeaDream re-designed the ships to look and feel more like yachts by increasing the amount of open deck spaces. Good move. The result is vessels that are ideally suited for sailing the warm waters of the Caribbean in the winter months and the Mediterranean in the summer. Both ships feature lots of open teak deck space, cushioned lounge chairs, and those wonderful Balinese DreamBeds.

Because of their size and configuration, the yachts are well-suited to the charter market. Large companies and even families will charter the yacht(s) for private sailings. It is a profitable business that has earned SeaDream quite a reputation, and no doubt helps to keep the small company afloat (no pun intended).

Other than some minor refurbishments a few years ago (new fabrics and carpet), and a small boutique on Deck 4 being converted into an Admiral's Suite, the yachts have pretty much remained unchanged since our first sailing. The overall design of the yachts is great and they are very comfortable. However, some areas are beginning to look tired and are showing their age. The suites are large and comfortable, but the cabinets are starting to look dated. Also, with some minor changes, the suites could benefit from additional storage space. The mattresses in our suite seemed to be at the end of their life cycle, as well. However, all of the linens were very high quality and comfortable. Re-furnishing staterooms takes a lot of money and I am sure investing heavily in 30+ year-old hardware may not be the wisest business decision. Rumors have been flying around that the company may have plans to build a new, larger yacht, but I have been unable to confirm this.

In spite of some areas showing signs of age, the yachts have tons of character and a "soul" that cannot be matched by a brand-new vessel. Make no mistake, these yachts still deliver a 5-star experience which is the envy of many competitors.

The Yacht Experience

SeaDream Yacht Club would have you believe that yachting is different from cruising, and there is certainly a noticeable difference. For one thing, the feel is casual and relaxed, just like it would be if you were on a friend's yacht, a very rich friend. And, like on a yacht, there are virtually NO public announcements to interrupt your leisure. The crewmembers call you by name and never fail to offer a smile and a friendly "hello". Breakfast, lunch and, weather permitting, dinner are served on deck, al fresco, in the Topside Restaurant. When weather makes dining outdoors a bad idea, dinner is served in the Dining Salon on Deck 2, a well-appointed and elegant dining room. When you dine aboard a SeaDream yacht, you do so when and with whom you choose. There are no assigned seatings or strict dining times. There are no formal nights and “yacht casual,” meaning no shorts or jeans, is the dress code around the ship after 6pm.

Alberto takes time for a photo with rickee

Days are typically spent on the yacht’s outer deck areas or on shore. The disproportionately large pool deck (Deck 3 aft) is a great place for sun worshippers to work on that Caribbean or Mediterranean tan. SeaDream crew are always nearby with your favorite beverage. Often, your lounging will be enhanced by a smiling deck steward offering to spritz you with cool water, or bring you fresh fruit or ice cream. A favorite place of ours is the Top of the Yacht Bar on Deck 6 which is also where you will find the unique Balinese DreamBeds. The Balinese beds, which flank the yacht’s exhaust stack (aft), are large, plush and the perfect way for two people to share sun time together. For more privacy, there are DreamBeds on Deck 6 forward, as well. Upon request, the DreamBeds can be reserved for sleeping "under the stars" out on deck. Stewards will make up the beds with quality linens and pillows for your comfort.

With the exception of incidentals and shore excursions, your cruise fare includes just about everything. The open-bar policy onboard means all soft drinks, beer, wine and cocktails are included with only premium brands being the exception. A variety of salon and spa treatments and massages are available from the yacht’s spa for an additional charge as are dry cleaning and laundry service. Gratuities are included in the price of the cruise. All of this combines to create a very high value for your luxury travel dollar compared with some other ultra-luxury cruise lines.

Accommodations

At 195 sq. ft., the Yacht Club Staterooms are cozy, efficient and comfortable. There is ample closet space with plenty of hangers, and dresser storage for at least 14 days of yacht attire. However, the bathrooms, which are slathered in marble and appointed with Bvlgari products, are tiny and cramped. Gone are the plush Turkish cotton towels that impressed us so much on our first sailing that we tracked down the supplier and bought them for our own home. There is a sink with small marble vanity and one glass shelf for your personal items. In contrast, the nearly full-sized shower stall features a multiple jet system for a full-body water experience. The water pressure was always great and we never lacked for hot water. The edge of the toilet is uncomfortably close to the bathroom door making for some interesting maneuvers when the need arises.

Our stateroom is decorated for our anniversary

The taupe, cream and pale blue fabrics used in the stateroom, along with the light-colored woods, create a relaxing atmosphere. A curtain can be pulled to separate the sitting area from the sleeping area. The sitting area is furnished with an uncomfortably firm couch with lots of throw pillows, a coffee table and a side chair. The bedroom has a queen-sized bed with lots of pillows, two side tables and a mirrored sit-down vanity complete with stool. As stated earlier, the mattress in our suite is probably in need of replacement and has developed a large dip on both sides from use. A lighted magnifying makeup mirror and hand-held hair dryer are nice amenities. Each stateroom has a telephone and individually controlled air conditioning that will freeze you out if you let it. A mini-refrigerator is fully stocked with bottled water, soft drinks, beer and wine and is replenished as needed. Cotton robes and slippers are furnished for wear while onboard and a programmable safe is found in a compartment next to the closet. The safe in our suite was not mounted to the cabinet, so offered little real security. Someone could have easily just pulled the safe out and walked off with it. I am positive that had we reported it to Concierge, it would have been secured. Much to Rickee's chagrin, the signature SeaDream monogrammed cotton pajamas were not delivered to our suite on this sailing. We were told that the pajama shipment did not arrive in time for our cruise.

All staterooms include flat screen televisions with DVD players (complimentary DVD movies are available at the Concierge desk), MP3 connections and a CD stereo system. There are two movie channels and CNN International news as well as a couple of closed circuit stations playing SeaDream promotional videos and a bridge cam. Both 120 and 220-volt outlets are available, but only one of each. There is also an iPod docking station.

SeaDream offers a Commodore Suite which is basically two Yacht Club Staterooms joined together. We were fortunate enough to occupy one of these on a previous sailing and really loved the layout. One side of the Commodore houses the bed while the other has a dining table that seats four. Both sides have bathrooms, closets and sofas. It sounds sort of strange, but it works. If you are traveling with kids, the Commodore is the way to go. And, for all-out extravagance, there is a spacious Owner’s Suite with 450 sq. ft. There are no balconies, but what yacht has balconies? Besides, you are never more than a few steps from a spacious outer deck.

All carpets and fabrics throughout the vessel were replaced in 2011.

Entertainment

Typical of other small ships, SeaDream’s entertainment is limited. Evenings onboard usually begin with the daily cocktail party at 6:30pm held in the ship’s lounge or on the pool deck (weather permitting). As guests sip their favorite cocktails and munch on delicious, and often elaborate, hors d’oeuvres, they are entertained by the yacht’s pianist or guitarist. Before dinner, the guitarist strums outside the Dining Salon. After dinner, the entertainer moves up to Deck 4 to the Piano Bar, a small, intimate area next to the Casino (which consists of a single Blackjack table). Popcorn Movie Nights are held in the Lounge on select evenings.

Activities

The most popular activity on a SeaDream cruise centers around the destinations, which tend to be smaller ports where the large ships cannot go. When the ship is anchored and the weather and local authorities permit, the water sports platform at the aft end of the yacht is lowered and guests can partake of the various water "toys". Swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, sailboating, water skiing are some of the activities offered. The yacht even has a couple of Wave Runners available for guest use and a banana boat that is pulled behind a motorized zodiac for guests to try to ride. Guests are also invited to take one of the yacht’s mountain bikes ashore to pedal around town.

Elisa Della Guardia and Rickee stop for a quick photo

Elisa Della Guardia, the yacht’s Club Director, is available to describe the many shore excursions that are offered. As is common, excursions are not included in the cost of the cruise. We found some of the offerings to be a little on the expensive side, and others to be competitively priced.

Cold bottled water is always available by the gangway to take with you when you leave the ship. Water is also available at the places where you board the tenders to return to the ship. When you get back on board, a smiling waiter hands you a cold face towel. A nice touch.

The yacht’s library on Deck 4 is exceptionally well stocked for a vessel of this size. The library is a quiet and comfortable area with large, plush chairs and sofas. Guests can grab any book they like from the shelves and return it before the end of the cruise. Chess boards are set up awaiting players and newspapers and magazines are there for the reading. The library also serves as the yacht’s Internet Cafe with two computer terminals to access the Internet. There are two Internet packages available: $99 for the entire week with unlimited access, or $25 for one day with unlimited access. Gone is the clunky card reader that you used to have to insert to gain access. The yachts have been equipped with Wi-Fi and after a visit to Concierge, the guest is given a user id and password. The Wi-Fi worked perfectly from our stateroom (310) and Internet reliability and speed were the best of any ship we have sailed. And, the $99/week with unlimited access, for us, is the best value we have found for Internet access.

For those desiring a workout, the yacht has a nicely-equipped Fitness Center located on Deck 4 forward that is open from 8am to 8pm; however, you can use the facilities at other times upon request. Tai Chi classes are offered on most days. The SeaDream Spa offers a wide selection of Thai therapies, massages, facials, manicure, pedicure and salon services. There is also a steamroom and sauna available. The Golf Simulator located Deck 6 forward provides guests with the opportunity to play on various famous golf courses. A variety of clubs and balls are provided on a complimentary basis.

Food and Dining

Dining is one area where SeaDream leads the cruise industry. The quality and presentation of meals on SeaDream is unmatched in our opinion.

Each day begins with breakfast served al fresco in the Topside Restaurant beginning at 7:30am. A buffet with fresh fruit, cheeses, oatmeal, breads and pastries complements a full cooked-to-order breakfast menu. This includes eggs any way you can imagine and a variety of meats including a cooked-to-order minute steak. A variety of pancakes, French toast and a daily breakfast special are always available. Early risers can find fresh coffee and pastries at the Top of the Yacht Bar starting at 7am.

SeaDream - 15.jpg — Those banana pancakes are not long for the world

By 12:30, it is time to head to the Topside Restaurant for lunch. The buffet line includes a selection of salads, cheeses, desserts and breads. Fresh crab claws, crab legs and boiled shrimp were some of the featured items during the week. The lunch menu changes every day and includes a variety of specials. You can always order a hot dog, hamburger or cheeseburger with fries or onion rings. Meals are cooked to order and extremely fresh. The Asian specials offered during this cruise were amazing, and quite spicy. We found the service at both breakfast and lunch to be spot-on SeaDream perfect. The wait staff really is amazing.

There are ample appetizers and snacks served each evening at the Cocktail Party held in the ship’s lounge or on the pool deck (depending on the weather). A large tin of caviar is available for guests to enjoy on more than one evening during the cruise. Crostini, egg, onions and crème fraiche are available to enhance the experience, all served up with traditional mother-of- pearl spoons. Other hors d’oeurves run the gambit from coconut shrimp to egg rolls to a spectacular sushi display one evening (the wasabi had a real kick). One evening featured a Mexican theme, which seemed a little out of place in the waters off the coast of Greece, but the Margaritas tasted just as good as they do in the Caribbean.

Dinner service begins at 7:30 in the Dining Salon on Deck 2. However, if you prefer to dine outside on deck and weather permits, simply ask the Maitre d’ Hotel a day in advance and he will gladly accommodate your request. When weather permits, SeaDream features "Dinner Under The Stars" where everyone is invited to dine at the Topside Restaurant. Dinner menus change each day and the menu items continue to evolve and improve. There are some extremely complex dishes coming out of the Executive Chef Singh’s galley and we suspect that this may be the reason wait times between courses were somewhat longer than normal. During the eight-course (no kidding) "Menu Degustation" dinner, we actually skipped dessert because we were tired and ready to go to bed! As a rule of thumb, two hours for dinner is not unusual.

Freshly prepared sandwiches and sweets are available after lunch at the Topside Restaurant buffet. The 24-hour Stateroom Menu also offers healthy selections and lighter fare.

The Good and the Bad

Every cruise line and/or ship has areas that stand out. Here are a few things that we observed.

Things We Love

Personal, friendly service is unmatched in the industry
Excellent food quality and presentation
Best cocktail hour of any cruise ship
Small, intimate "yacht" atmosphere
Casual dress code
Lots of open deck space
Best Internet of any ship
Beverages, cocktails and gratuities are included

Things We Would Like To See Improved or Changed

Mattresses could be replaced
Additional storage in bathroom is needed
Staterooms need updating

Summary

An “experience” really is the best way to describe sailing on a SeaDream yacht. We have said it before and we can wholeheartedly say it again: There is no other ship (or yacht) in the world that offers this level of personal attention and outright pampering. Of course, with a crew of 95 and a guest capacity of 108 giving a near 1:1 staff-to-guest ratio, this task becomes manageable. Guests enjoy a relaxed, yet sophisticated vacation experience. The only dress code is “yacht casual” and there are no formal nights or ties required.

SeaDream Yacht Club is best suited for adults who are looking for a relaxed, casual and upscale vacation experience. This is much more laid back than a typical cruise vacation. We were pleasantly surprised to see a much younger clientele on this most recent cruise. We would not typically recommend SeaDream to families with young children, however, we met a family traveling with two boys (ages 13 and 10) and they enthusiastically claim SeaDream to be their favorite cruise line! We also do not recommend these yachts for those with serious physical disabilities. The yachts do have an elevator that takes guests from Deck 2 to Deck 5, but not to the Top of the Yacht Bar. And, there is no ramp to the Top of the Yacht. Also, many ports require the use of the yacht’s tenders (smaller boats that take you from anchorage to the shore). Getting into and out of tenders can be a challenge for the physically disabled.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 7/27/13 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 7/27/13

Greek Isles Cruise on Paul Gauguin Cruises m/v Tere Moana

We spend 7 amazing nights sailing the Greek Isles aboard Paul Gauguin’s Tere Moana

Itinerary: Istanbul, Canakkale, Kusadasi, Patmos, Rhodes, Paros, Piraeus (Athens)

Small ship sailing is different than a cruise aboard a "typical" cruise ship. By comparison, there is no entertainment, no casino, no glitz. The ships are smaller so there are no facilities to entertain small children. And, unlike some larger ships that now offer multiple dining venues, a small ship may only offer one or two venues in which to dine. So why is small ship cruising growing in popularity? Well, every coin has two sides. On a small ship, you rarely if ever, have to stand in line. There are no large crowds waiting for the dining room to open. Seating for meals is typically "open", so you can sit with whomever you choose whenever you wish. Service levels aboard small ships tend to be much higher due to a larger crew-to-guest ratio. And, small ships just have more personality and character. Large ships deliver a cruise, small ships deliver an experience.

“Large ships deliver a ‘cruise’, small ships deliver an ‘experience’...”

— CruiseReport Editors

Paul Gauguin Cruises has built an excellent reputation for 5-star service with the m/s Paul Gauguin, a 332-guest ship that sails the waters of the South Pacific. So, when they announced that they were adding a second, smaller vessel, the 90-guest m/v Tere Moana, expectations were high. Now, when a small, one-ship cruise line adds a second ship to its fleet, it is much different than when Carnival or Royal Caribbean bring out a new ship. The "big guys" can cannibalize other ships in their fleet for staff, crew and training resources. Getting a new small ship up-to-speed is a real challenge for a small company. That's not an excuse, just a physical reality.

Reading some of the reviews from guests who sailed aboard Tere Moana's very first sailings revealed a ship going through some serious growing pains. Whether or not the complaints were justified, we cannot say. But, as cruise journalists, we owed it to our audience, and to Paul Gauguin Cruises, to "see for ourselves" and report our findings. We were fortunate enough to secure a stateroom on a 7-night sailing from Istanbul to Athens.

THE SHIP

Launched on December 29, 2012, m/v Tere Moana (formerly Le Levant) is a sleek-looking vessel that can carry up to 90 guests which are served by a full-time crew of 60. The ship is only 3,500 tons, giving a more "yacht-like" feel than that of a cruise ship. The lack of stabilizers is one of the criticisms from guests on early sailings; however, on our 7-night sailing the ride was glass smooth for six of the seven nights. We did experience some motion one evening, but no worse than we have experienced on ships with functioning stabilizers. We have been informed that the ship actually does have two functioning stabilizers and will have an additional two functioning stabilizers after the ship emerges from dry dock in November 2013.

TereMoana 003.jpg — *Le Grand Salon on Deck 3*

The vessel is 15 years-old, but you have to really look close to see signs of age. The public areas look fresh and new. The ship received a brand-new propeller shaft (a multi-million dollar investment) to shore up any potential reliability issues during a dry dock in October-November 2012, at which time the entire ship was refurbished.

Tere Moana is equipped with Internet access and Wi-Fi hotspots. Connectivity was very good throughout our sailing, and was only dropped briefly one time for about 20 minutes. Access speeds were very good by cruise ship Internet standards. PG Cruises offers a choice of Internet packages: 250 minutes for $62.50 (0.25 per minute) or 100 minutes for $35, competitive pricing in the cruise ship world.

A hot tub and open deck space on Deck 6, Sun Deck

When you get thirsty, there are a few options. Le Grand Salon on Deck 3 aft is a full-service bar that operates in the late afternoon and evening. The Pool Bar on Deck 4 is the daytime refreshment center. All beverages are included in the cruise fare including soft drinks, bottled water, beer, wine, and cocktails. Bar service was excellent throughout the cruise. Liquor pours were generous and the brands being poured were top quality. Charlene made the best Pina Colada I have ever had at the Pool Bar and she cheerfully topped it off with an extra heavy shot of dark rum per my request.

Staterooms are located on Decks 3, 4 and 5 and have wisely been located amidships and forward. There are no staterooms located aft to prevent exposure to potential drive vibration and noise. The cabins on Deck 5 have small balconies. There is an elevator connecting all passenger decks. A main staircase in the ship's lobby leads from Deck 3 to Deck 5. Deck 6 (Sun deck) is only accessible by exterior stairs from the Pool Deck (5). There are also some exterior stairs leading from Deck 3 to Deck 5. Overall, Tere Moana is very easy to navigate.

*The Pool Deck (5) can be converted for outdoor dining*

Outdoor deck space is available on Decks 3, 4, 5 and 6. Deck 3 aft is fully covered for those who prefer the shade, however, it can be a little noisy when the ship is underway. Deck 4 space is limited to the aft seating for La Veranda restaurant and may not be available during certain times. It, too, is shaded by a canvas cover. Deck 5 is the Pool Deck and offers lounge chair seating around the small pool. There is some shade available on this deck, but it is limited. Deck 6 is completely open to the sun with the exception of the four Balinese Sun Beds forward which have some canvas shading. We did not see how the deck space could handle a full complement of guests since there were only 49 guests on our sailing. We suspect that seating would be adequate. Some reviews mention the lack of forward-facing deck space. This is basically accurate. Because of the vessel's design, the open deck space is primarily located amidships and aft.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are two stateroom categories on Tere Moana: Window Staterooms and Balcony Staterooms at 194 sq. ft. and 298 sq. ft. respectively. Our Window Stateroom on Deck 4 was comfortable and had more then enough storage for even the heaviest packer. For those of you who have sailed on Windstar, you will see many similarities. This becomes most apparent when you visit the bathroom, which is large and also has tons of storage space. Notwithstanding the odd blue-tinted shower door, the round shower stall is an adequate size and equipped with great hardware. Ladies will be pleased to know that soon the wall-mounted wand hair dryers will be replaced with hand-held models and lighted makeup mirrors will be added to the space where the hair dryers are currently attached.

*Small makeup table with lighted mirror in stateroom*

In the cabin, there is a small oval makeup vanity with one little drawer and a lighted mirror mounted above it which has wisely been located away from the cabin's heavy traffic area. There is a chair that can be used at the vanity. The closet is large with plenty of hangers and there is an electronic safe for valuables. A second "closet" has eight storage bins above and four drawers below. A V-shaped cabinet located on the same wall as the vanity holds a small refrigerator/mini-bar stocked with beer and soft drinks that are replenished as needed on a complimentary basis. The marble surface of this cabinet is a good place to lay things when you came back into the cabin and the two glass shelves mounted above it offer yet another great place to put "stuff". A wall-mounted flat-screen television can easily be seen from the bed and there is a DVD player. A nice selection of complimentary DVD movies are available from Guest Services. There is also an iPod docking station with clock and speakers located on the small vanity table.

*Quality L'Occitane amenities in bathroom*

There is a small round table at the end of the bed along with a chair. These are kind of in the way and not really that useable, other than as a place to set things. Our bed was a true king-sized bed and was one of the most comfortable we have enjoyed on any ship. The mattress, linens and pillows were all high quality and very comfy. The air conditioner would freeze you out if you set the thermostat all the way to cold.

There are eight balcony staterooms on Deck 5

One area that could use some work is the closet doors and drawers, which are kind of clunky and noisy when opened and closed. The stateroom doors could also use some adjustment or dampening to prevent slamming shut. To be honest, this is really nit-picking. Overall, our stateroom was extremely comfortable, easily scoring 4 out of a possible 5. The skinny closet on the right as you enter that held two life vests even had three additional shelves to use for storage. The storage space in this cabin is outstanding!

DINING

Food is an important part of any vacation and Tere Moana does not disappoint. An Early Riser's Breakfast starts at 7am with a full buffet-style breakfast from 7:30am until 9:00am, which seems a little brief, especially for those who, like Rickee, rarely exit the stateroom until after 9:00am. Breakfast offers a huge assortment of cereals, nuts, seeds and the like for those who want to blend their own Mueslix or cereals. There are the standard scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, tomato, mushrooms and the like. Omelets or other eggs-to-order are made at a chef-manned station. The pastries are as good as you will find anywhere. Breakfast is only available in La Veranda and the outdoor seating, which can accommodate 26 guests, is the most popular spot. The ship also offers a Continental Breakfast (variety of pastries, muffins, fresh fruit, cereals, coffee, and tea) at the Pool Bar until 10 a.m.

“The breads were obviously baked fresh daily and were amazing...”

— CruiseReport Editors

Lunch, too, is served in La Veranda each day from 12:30pm to 2:00pm. Lunch is our personal favorite meal of the day and this is an area where Tere Moana rises above many cruise lines. Even though we are not huge fans of buffets, the buffet lunches here were spectacular. A different international themed cuisine was offered each day (Italian, Greek, Asian, International, etc.) and each one was very good. The salad bar offered a large selection of local specialties each day and Rickee usually made a meal of the salads. I don't know where Chef Roy was sourcing the tomatoes for this sailing, but they were the best we have had in years. They tasted home-grown. The only soups offered at lunch were chilled soups, which we thought was a little strange, but then again, we were in the hot Mediterranean area. The breads were obviously baked fresh daily and were amazing. There is a huge assortment of olive oils and balsamic vinegars which can be combined for dipping. Excellent. One small detail that was overlooked was placing bread plates at the bread station. We first had to go get a large serving plate, or small dessert plate from the dessert station, then return to the bread station. We mentioned this to the Hotel Director and we are certain that it will be addressed. Each night at dinner, a different compounded butter was offered but missing was plain ole' butter. Now how am I supposed to clog my arteries without butter? Of course, plain butter was available for the asking, but it was the mini-butter pat variety. Chef Roy's talents really shined in the hot dishes made-to-order station creations. We always looked forward to lunch on Tere Moana.

La Veranda offers al fresco dining for up to 26 guests

Dinner is served each evening from 7:00pm to 8:30pm, which too, seems a bit abbreviated. We would like to see the hours extended to 7:00pm to 9:30pm to give late diners more options and to thin out potential crowding of the dining rooms. On our sailing, only two evening meals were served in Le Etoile, the formal dining room on Deck 2. We also enjoyed two deck BBQs held on Deck 5 and Deck 6 with the remainder of evening meals served in La Veranda. This gave guests a lot of opportunities to dine al fresco in the beautiful weather.

As for the venues themselves, Le Etoile is a very tastefully decorated "formal" dining room which is only used for evening meals. La Veranda is the "lido-style" dining venue which is used for buffet breakfast and lunch every day, and for dinner (menu service) on select evenings. La Veranda has a covered patio section aft that allows up to 26 guests to enjoy al fresco dining, weather permitting. Le Grand Salon is the main lounge on Deck 3 used for Afternoon Tea service and before-dinner cocktails and appetizers. The Pool Deck (5) and Sun Deck (6) were both used for deck BBQs. The Pool Deck BBQ was really hampered by high winds, but the crew managed to keep the tablecloths from blowing into the Aegean. The winds died down eventually and everyone had a good time and a good meal.

*Selection of olive oil and balsamic each day at lunch in La Veranda*

Most dishes we tried would fall into the 'good to better-than-good' level, with a few rising to 'excellent'. The only not-so-good dishes we had were the beef dishes, more specifically the T-Bone steak and the Prime Rib. The T-Bone I received at the deck BBQ was very hard to cut and chew. I returned it for another one, and had the same problem. Basically, the meat was extremely tough. Rickee had the same issue with a slice of prime rib she ordered in L' Etoile. We were told that they recently changed their beef supplier and that the beef comes from the US. The lamb, which comes from New Zealand, was excellent, tender and delicious. The Osso Bucco, which is veal, was also very tender and delicious. All of the seafood we tried was fresh and perfectly prepared. I had a special Indian combination plate one evening for dinner and it was also excellent.

A limited room service menu is also available 24-hours-a-day. I only tried this once by ordering the chicken wings. It took about 20 minutes for the order to arrive and they were hot, crispy and delicious. So, food in one form or another, is always available. There are jars of cookies, fruit, tea and coffee available in La Veranda at all times.

Service throughout the ship is efficient and friendly. The wait staff are excellent. Complimentary wine is served each evening (one red and one white) and the selections we tried were good. Getting refills on wine, or even water, could take a little time, however. On the one evening where we dined in L' Etoile, the speed of service from the galley was excellent. However, in fairness, there were only 49 guests sailing on our cruise.

ENTERTAINMENT

As is typical on a ship this size, there is not much in the way of entertainment. There is a pianist on board (Alex, on our cruise) who played and sang in the lounge and at dinner. On evenings when we had a deck BBQ, Hotel Director, Nelson Trindade, brought on local entertainers, which was really special. There is a crew show on the next-to-last evening hosted by Cruise Director, Tom Ash. There are some quite talented crew members on board Tere Moana!

As previously mentioned, the ship offers complimentary DVD movies for playback in the stateroom and each stateroom also has an iPod connector with clock and speakers.

ACTIVITIES

The main activity aboard a small ship like this is exploring the destinations. You won't find daytime Bingo, trivia or other mundane activities. The idea is to either get off the ship and explore the ports, or enjoy a good book while soaking up the sun on the open decks. We were surprised to see a few families with young children on board since there is really not much for kids to do on the ship. They seemed to have no trouble entertaining themselves, though.

There is a small spa on Deck 5 which offers manicures and pedicures, facials, massages and other spa services. A nice line of products was also available for purchase there. A boutique on Deck 3 is stocked with lots of logo wear, hats, some Tahitian pearl jewelry, tote bags, clothing, sunscreen and various other items. The shirts appeared to be made of high-quality material and were offered in both t-shirt and polo shirt styles. We found the boutique to be open at various times throughout the day and evening.

STAFF & CREW

We were very impressed with the service levels on board Tere Moana. Crew members were always smiling and willing to serve. With a few exceptions, however, we did not find a real effort to call guests by name, something you sort of expect on a ship this size. Nevertheless, everyone was polite and committed to good service. We did not ask for anything that we did not get. We never heard the word "no" the entire week.

THE GOOD AND THE BAD

As with any cruise line or ship, there are those things that really stand out as excellent, and other things that could bear improvement. Here are a few things that stand out in our mind:

Things We Love

Friendly crew
Visible and approachable senior staff
Breakfast & Lunch buffets are some of the best anywhere
Breads and pastries are as good as it gets
Selection of olive oil & balsamic at lunch
Healthy choices at breakfast
Deck BBQs
Great itinerary and ports
Super comfy bed and linens
Tons of storage in the stateroom & bathroom
Excellent Internet access
Inclusive beverages and gratuities
Excellent itinerary

Things We Would Like To See Improved

Lighted makeup mirror (coming soon)
Hand-held hair dryer (coming soon)
Quality of beef/steaks
Refill drink glasses a bit quicker

SUMMARY

When we "rate" cruise ships, we only have from 1 to 5 stars. Tere Moana came about as close as is possible to just missing the 5-star rating, maybe a 4.7. We are convinced that with some of the upgrades already in the works, and a few minor tweaks, this will be a 5-star cruise ship. Of course, all ratings, including ours, are subjective. There is no question that some would already consider Tere Moana to be in the 5-star category.

The real measure of any cruise line and/or ship is how the guests feel about it. On our cruise, we had an opportunity to visit with several guests. Every one of them expressed a serious desire to sail on Tere Moana again. In fact, we did not hear one single negative comment from anyone. Combine that with our personal observations and we would have to assume that any challenges that did face Tere Moana in the beginning have been addressed and corrected. We would not hesitate to recommend Tere Moana to any of our readers looking for a great small ship experience. And, we would personally jump at the opportunity to sail with Paul Gauguin Cruises again.

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 6/5/13 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 6/5/13

Swan Hellenic Norwegian Fjords

We spend 15 nights exploring the Norwegian fjords aboard Swan Hellenic MS Minerva

Itinerary: Portsmouth, Oslo, Aalborg, Haugesund, Ulvik, Flam, Forde, Andalsnes, Olden, Bergen

PRELUDE

Can you remember when cruising was about more than glitzy casinos, rock-climbing walls and roller-blading? Back in "the day", it was about discovering new and exotic locations. It was a time when gentlemen dressed appropriately for dinner and the main activity was the destination. Nostalgia is a powerful force and Swan Hellenic appears to be leveraging it to their advantage, and to the advantage of those who sail with them. Discovery Cruising is more than a tag line, it is what Swan Hellenic is all about.

We have wanted to sail the Norwegian fjords for quite some time, so a 15-night Oslo & The Fjords sailing on Minerva seemed a perfect fit. Swan Hellenic is a cruise line that may be unfamiliar to most Americans. It is a premium British cruise line with a strong British following. In fact, about 85% of Swan's passengers are from the UK. On our sailing, there were only a handful of Americans, and at least four Canadians. This is a cruise line that has a huge following in Great Britain, but not so much in North America, at least not yet. Swan Hellenic operates only one ocean-going cruise ship: MV Minerva. And, there is quite an interesting history of the company and the ship, but that is a story for another time.

One thing is immediately apparent to any first-time guest on Minerva: this ship has a loyal following of repeat guests. In fact, I would have to say that the people we spoke with showed more passion and loyalty for this brand than we've experienced with any passengers on any other cruise line on which we have sailed. Virtually everyone we met was a repeat guest, and most could recite the history of the cruise line and the ship. When any brand fosters that kind of loyalty, there has to be a reason. We found several.

THE SHIP

Minerva is your typical 12,500 ton cruise ship. She was launched in 1996, was moved to another cruise line for a period when Swan Hellenic became part of P&O Cruises/Carnival, then brought back (by demand, it would seem) to Swan Hellenic 5 years ago to resume her originally intended service after Swan joined the All Leisure Group. The ship was recently refurbished and balcony suites were added to the upper decks, a new Orpheus Lounge was added to the Promenade Deck and other areas of the ship were refreshed as well. She can carry 350 guests when fully booked; however, there were only 225 on our Norwegian fjord sailing.

Swan Hellenic is one of three cruise brands under the All Leisure Holidays "umbrella" along with Voyages of Discovery and Hebridean Island Cruises. For more information about Swan Hellenic, you can visit their website at http://us.swanhellenic.com/.

The general condition of Minerva is excellent. She has obviously been well maintained and cared for. The recent refurb and refit treated her to new furnishings, carpet and fabrics in many public rooms. The Orpheus Lounge was added to the Promenade Deck and Balcony Suites were added to the Bridge and Sun Decks. There is no casino on board Minerva, a nod to her more serious role as a "discovery cruising" vessel. There are three lounges/bars where guests can enjoy cocktails, two of which include entertainment at various times throughout the day. Drink prices are comparable to what you will find in most hotels and restaurants, but Americans should be advised that all prices onboard Minerva are in British Pound Sterling (£). On our sailing, the exchange rate was approximately 1.55 US$ to 1 Pound. Therefore, a £3.25 cocktail is really $5.03. However, Swan does not tack on a 18% bar service fee/gratuity as many cruise lines do. All gratuities onboard are included in the cruise fare.

Elegant and colorful leather in The Orpheus Lounge

It is very easy to find your way around the ship.There are two stairways, one forward and another aft. The forward stairway and elevator go all the way to Promenade deck and Orpheus Lounge. The aft elevator only goes to the Sun Deck. There is a lot of open deck space. An expansive Promenade deck is great for walking laps around the deck and there are teak tables and chairs on Sun Deck aft and Bridge Deck aft.

Internet service is offered in the Internet Lounge, an area that has been carved out of one corner of The Library. There are 6 workstations. Internet charges are based on four different plans (shown below). The more minutes you purchase, the lower the per-minute costs. Swan's Internet charges are very competitive compared to other cruise lines. Connectivity and service were good with only a few outages during the 15-day cruise. Whenever the ship was sailing through the narrow fjords, the satellite signal was obviously being blocked. The ship is equipped with Wi-Fi and we had no problem getting a connection in our Balcony Suite. However, we did have a Wi-Fi transmitter mounted just outside our stateroom door in the hallway which, I am sure, helped some.

A small, but very well-stocked, gift shop on Main Deck offers such items as jewelry, fragrances, clothing, and logo wear. There is another small shop that has every sundry you could ever need and then some. The Reception and Shore Excursion desks are located on the B deck aft. We visited Reception on several occasions and found the staff to be friendly and very helpful. Working at Reception is a tough job on a cruise ship. If someone has a complaint or a problem, this is where it ends up. So, a warm and friendly Reception staff is a real asset to a ship.

There is a nicely-equipped medical center on A deck. Rickee had to visit the ship's Doctor on the third day of the cruise due to tooth/gum pain. She was prescribed an antibiotic and they offered to arrange a dentist visit in Oslo. However, it turned out to be unnecessary. The charge for the visit was comparable to other cruise ship medical services. Of course, we always travel with third party travel insurance which should reimburse us for the cost.

For those who are looking for a way to stay in top shape while traveling, Minerva has a nicely-equipped fitness center on A deck aft, starboard. And, on the same deck port side, there is a Guest Laundrette equipped with 4 washer/dryer stack units, iron and ironing board. Detergent is complimentary as is use of the washers and dryers. The ship has laundry services as well and prices are comparable to other cruise lines or hotels. There is a small full-service salon on A deck that offers hair and nail services for a fee and massages, too.

ACCOMMODATIONS

We were very fortunate to have a Balcony Suite (BS4) for our 15-night sailing. The Balcony Suites are found on the Sun Deck (7) and Bridge Deck (6) and were added to Minerva during the most recent refit. Our Balcony Suite was 216 sq. ft. with a 76 sq. ft. balcony and all furnishings in it looked brand new.

Our Balcony Suite is located forward port side. Our suite is conveniently located near the forward stairs, however, even the aft stairs on this vessel are not a long walk down the hall. As I mentioned earlier,it is a very easy ship to navigate. Our twin beds have been combined to form one large bed with a single duvet. There are two nightstands, each with its own lamp and LED reading light, a nice touch. I am sure that everyone has their own standards as to what constitutes a comfortable bed. This bed is a bit on the soft side, but not too soft. And, the pillows are perfect.

Across from the bed is the "living room" with a small sofa, chair, coffee table and wall-mounted desk unit with a chair. A small flat screen television sits atop the refrigerator/mini-bar enclosure at the end of the desk unit. The TV is on a swivel base so that it can be seen from the bed or the living room. The desk unit has a couple of large open shelves, a cabinet with two additional shelves and a desk drawer. There is more than enough space for a laptop, camera gear and any other electronic devices you might travel with. Unfortunately, there is only a single AC outlet on the desk, so if you have multiple chargers (cell phones, cameras, iPods, etc.) you may need to pack a power strip. However, make sure it can handle 220 volts.

The bathroom is located on the right as you enter the room. There is a bathtub/shower combination, marble countertop w/sink, a mirrored 3-shelf medicine cabinet and a large storage shelf underneath the sink. It should be noted that Balcony Suites on starboard side of the vessel have showers while port side have bathtubs. Stepping up and over the side of the bathtub could be a challenge for some with mobility issues, something to consider when booking your Balcony Suite. Bathroom amenities are top quality L'Occitane and include bar soap, shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and body lotion which were replenished as needed. There is a small, round magnifying mirror integrated into the mirror on the back of the medicine cabinet door, but a lighted magnifying makeup mirror would be a welcome addition. Towels were top-quality and we even had two washcloths, which is unusual for a European ship. Towels are replaced daily unless you hang them on the towel rack indicating you want to re-use them.

The closet is located next to the bed along the hallway wall and, while not a walk-in closet, is very large and well designed. There are plenty of wooden hangers and hanging space. The closet makes use of storage shelves and drawers. The doors and drawers are held by strong magnets which are a bit noisy when they open and close, but do a fantastic job of keeping the doors and drawers secure with no rattling in choppier seas. There is a programmable electronic safe for valuables and two bath robes with slippers. We moved our bathrobes to the bathroom hooks to free up space in the closet for longer hanging items. We had more than enough storage space for our 15-day trip. The two hooks on the wall behind the entry door were a nice touch! We love having hooks on the wall to hang things like backpacks and jackets so they are easily accessible as we go out the cabin door.

The outside wall is dominated by large floor-to-ceiling windows and a door opening onto the massive balcony. The glass is coated with a film to reduce sun and heat in the cabin. The balcony has a teak deck, two teak padded deck chairs and a small teak table. There is enough space on our balcony for a lounge chair as well. Our balcony looks out over the top of one of the life boats, but this does not obstruct the view significantly. All-in-all, it is a very nice balcony and one of which we took full advantage.

One thing missing from the Balcony Suite is a 110 US-style electrical outlet. I suspect the same is true of all staterooms on Minerva. In a departure from other cruise ships on which we have sailed, Minerva uses a 3-prong British-style outlet (220 volt) instead of the 2-round prong European standard. I always pack several 2-prong to US-style adapters when we travel, but they were useless in the British outlets. Fortunately, I discovered this before we left Portsmouth and I was able to disembark and make a dash to the gift shop located in the cruise terminal and purchase 2 British-style adapter plugs. There are a total of 4 available outlets spread around the room. One is located atop the desk, two are located underneath the nightstands (one each) and another, oddly enough, under the main light switch on the wall next to the stateroom door.

We found the Balcony Suite to be extremely comfortable and roomy. There are a few times when the room got a little warm and the A/C unit seemed to be unable to keep up. However, we learned that there is a three-position air flow adjustment on each vent in addition to the thermostat. Once we opened that up, the problem was solved. The television has a movie channel with new movies each day and all of the lectures are run in a loop on several channels. There are also a few BBC channels available and Sky News. The acoustics of the room are very quiet making for peaceful nights' sleep. Overall, we would easily rate the Balcony Suite a 5 out of 5 for comfort.

During our sailing, our stateroom attendant, Natalya, did an excellent job of keeping the room in order. When we returned from excursions, our room had been completely made up. Each evening, she would replace towels, if necessary, and turn down the bed. Some evenings we choose not to go to dinner, especially after a large lunch and Afternoon Tea. We would instead go for for a cocktail around 6:30 and by 7:30 when we returned, she already had the room ready. Excellent!

DINING

Minerva has two dining venues: The Swan Restaurant is the main dining room, and The Veranda is the buffet/Lido-style dining area. The Swan Restaurant offers full "menu" service at breakfast, lunch and dinner each day as well as an Afternoon Tea service (4pm). The Veranda offers buffet-style dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day as well as an Early Riser continental breakfast each morning at 6:30 am. Tables in both restaurants are set with linens, flatware and china; there are no plastic dishes to be found. Weather permitting, you can also dine al fresco on the deck outside the Veranda.

The Veranda dress code is "smart casual" for all meals, which basically means no shorts or swimsuits. The Swan Restaurant is smart casual for breakfast and lunch and "jacket and tie" in the evenings. There were two "formal" nights on our 15-night sailing and most guests take formal night very seriously. Black tie is recommended, and most adhere to the policy; however, you will see a few wearing a dark suit and a tie.

Rickee poses with one of the waiters in The Veranda

Minerva also offers room service from 10 am to 10 pm each day with a selection of sandwiches, burgers, salads, steak, chicken, spaghetti and desserts. Interestingly, there is no room service breakfast offered.

The food we experienced in the Veranda was identical to what we had in the Swan Restaurant. In fact, the two menus are virtually identical each day. As with any cruise ship, or restaurant for that matter, food is a matter of personal taste. In general, we found the food to be average to good, with a few really exceptional offerings. I learned after a few days that the Asian and Indian dishes offered nearly every day were exceptional. They were all very flavorful and a few were even spicy hot, which I love. I suspect that the Brits' love for Indian food is being catered to. The crusty rolls served at each meal were fresh and delicious and all of the soups we had were very good. If you have a sweet tooth, you will love the desserts. There is a dessert bar set up each day in Swan and Veranda and the selection in excellent.

Afternoon Tea is served each day at 4 pm in the Swan Restaurant and offers the traditional scones with clotted cream and preserves. However, they also offer finger sandwiches, cookies and a wide assortment of cakes. And, something a little unusual, there is a savory choice as well. When was the last time you saw chicken nuggets offered at Afternoon Tea?

Our two room service experiences were less impressive. My cheeseburger with fries arrived with no ketchup for the fries and slathered with Thousand Island dressing. And, on both orders, no salt & pepper was included on the tray. We decided that ketchup is not a British staple since they usually use HP sauce so we made sure to request ketchup the second time. The only other mystery was when I tried to order a burger in the dining room for lunch and was told that they were only available through room service. I thought that was odd. However, towards the end of the cruise, I noticed another guest was served a cheeseburger at lunch in the Swan. I overheard a conversation where he apparently was told the same thing I had been told about burgers only being available through room service, but when he inquired as to "why", his waiter asked the chef, who readily prepared a burger for him in spite of the "policy". I am just guessing that having burgers available on the lunch menu is probably an "American" thing that the Brits don't consider.

The service in both venues is very attentive. One day at lunch I asked Rickee where she found the hard-boiled eggs on the salad bar and she said they were an ingredient in one of the salad offerings. A few moments later, our waiter brought a small plate with three sliced hard-boiled eggs to our table. Anticipating what guests want is a hallmark of excellent service. We were always given a table for two when we asked. (There are a few two-top tables in both dining venues.) Since we usually arrive early for meals, the tables were always available. So, if you would like a table for two, it pays to be early. All dining is "open seating". There are no set dining times per se, and you can sit wherever and with whomever you wish, which was the another reason we were given that Swan Hellenic has such a loyal following, according to the repeat guests with whom we spoke.

ACTIVITIES

The main activities aboard a Swan Hellenic cruise center around the destination and the shore excursions. Every Swan Hellenic cruise offers a wide selection of complimentary shore excursions that are included in the cruise fare. This makes Swan Hellenic a huge value and is one of the three main reasons we were given when we asked fellow passengers why Swan is so popular with repeat guests. The excursions on our sailing were typically 3.5 hours in length. Some excursions were city walking tours, others were coach tours. We even did a 5-mile hike up a mountain in Olden! No matter which excursion we chose, Solveig, the Shore Excursion Manager, was always nearby to make sure everyone got the best experience possible. Every excursion included a local English-speaking guide and usually a stop for "tea and cakes". A representative from Minerva also accompanied each excursion. The motor coaches used on excursions were all new, clean, modern and air-conditioned. Also, there are no gratuity requirements for the local guides as Swan has taken care of that too! In general, we found the shore excursions to be comparable to those offered on other cruise lines for $75 to $120 per person. There were several excursions to choose from for each place we visited, and you sometimes were able to select a morning and an afternoon excursion for the same day!

Solveig, Minerva's shore excursion manager

All activities, along with the evening meal dress code, are noted in the ship's daily program which, unlike on most ships, is delivered to your cabin each morning for the next day. By receiving this information early on the day before things are scheduled to take place, you have ample time to examine what is in store for the next day so you can make plans and be sure to schedule time for any activity that appeals to you. This way, you also have advance notice of any sales in the gift shop or specials in the Beauty Centre (salon). We really enjoyed receiving the program this way.

Sightseeing from the decks was a favorite activity on this voyage. Deck talks would be given by onboard lecturers about the area through which we were sailing, pointing out areas of interest and detailing historical events. When sailing through the scenic fjords of Norway, Captain Moulds would go out of his way (often to the chagrin of the local pilot onboard) to move the ship closer to impressive waterfalls and other points of interest. He would make sure that both sides of the ship were able to view the scenery by turning the ship 360 degrees while in the scenic area.

Former British Ambassador to Norway, Sir Richard Dales

The other main activity on Swan Hellenic is the lecture series. The lectures dovetail with the destination and the excursions. A lot of thought and planning has gone into the selection of esteemed lecturers on board every Swan cruise. On our voyage, our lecturers consisted of a Professor, a PHd, a Sir and a Lord! Every guest aboard Minerva goes home "knowing" about the places they have visited. This adds a very unique dimension to the cruise experience and is another of the reasons given for Swan's popularity with repeat guests. Lectures are conducted every day, and there are several lectures to choose from. However, every lecture has some relevance to the destination. This makes the cruise an educational, as well as an entertaining, experience. During our Norwegian Fjord cruise, we learned about the Viking history of the region, the geographical and geological history of Norway, and even the history and significance of the North Sea.

All lectures are broadcast live on the ship's closed circuit television so that they can be enjoyed in the stateroom. And, lectures are repeated on a loop throughout the day on multiple channels. This is a great feature that no other cruise has quite matched.

On our voyage, there was also the opportunity to take part in an "Art Workshop" conducted by an experienced water-colorist. Various sessions were held throughout the voyage and an exhibition of passengers' creations was held on the last evening of the cruise.

The well-stocked library on Bridge Deck is a comfortable place to sit and read or work one of the many jigsaw puzzles that were available during the cruise. Newspapers and magazines are also found here.

ENTERTAINMENT

The entertainment onboard Minerva was much better than we expected on a ship this size. In the late afternoon/early evening, Claire Harper could be found playing the piano and singing in Shackelton Bar. This made Shackelton Bar a great place for a pre-dinner cocktail, or to sit with friends after dinner. In the Orpheus Lounge on Promenade Deck, the band Tuxedo Class performed most evenings after dinner, especially nice for those who like to dance the night away. The Sixth Avenue Singers were on board during our sailing to deliver several operatic evening performances in The Drake Lounge.

Claire Harper entertains each evening in The Shackelton bar

THE ITINERARY

Our 15-night sailing from Portsmouth could not have been better planned or executed. Four of the five days at sea were perfectly placed with two days at the beginning and two days at the end of the sailing, with one more thrown in on the fifth day. Notwithstanding one call in Denmark, every place we visited was in Norway. We saw everything from the big cities of Oslo and Bergen to the small villages tucked away deep inside the fjords of Norway. And, while on the subject of fjords, they are amazing. This is scenic cruising that is rivaled only by Alaska, New Zealand and perhaps Antarctica. We were also very fortunate with the weather we experienced on our voyage. Norway is well-known as a rainy place, but we only had rain on one or two days. It was beautifully warm and sunny for practically the entire voyage.

Magnificent waterfalls are common in Norway

SAFETY & SECURITY

Every guest is issued a boarding ID card that gets swiped each time they leave or return to the vessel. However, unlike some ships, this card does not double as a room key. Each stateroom has two "old school" room keys. Doors do not automatically lock when shut, so you must remember to use the key to lock the door when leaving the stateroom. Each stateroom has an electronic, programmable safe large enough to hold a small laptop, Kindle, iPad, etc.

A thorough muster drill was conducted before the ship sailed. Guests were instructed to bring their life vests to their muster station where they were shown the proper way to wear them. Everything was handled professionally and seriously.

Hand sanitation dispensers were everywhere you looked and the staff made sure you used them before entering the dining venues. On shore excursions, staff members would walk around with a hand sanitizer pump to make sure everyone's hands were clean. The ship has not had any cases of Norovirus and they are committed to keeping it that way. In the Veranda Restaurant, main courses and hot dishes are plated by galley staff which is much more sanitary that allowing guests to serve themselves. There are also hand sanitation wipes available in the Internet Lounge at each computer station. Minerva is the most health-conscious ship on which we have ever traveled.

ATMOSPHERE & EXPERIENCE

Swan Hellenic refers to the decor on Minerva as "British Country Home", and that is an accurate description. Furnishings throughout the ship are elegant without being stuffy. Every public space is comfortable and inviting with a very British feel.

During the day, casual attire is the order of the day and may include casual slacks, jeans or even shorts. T-shirts are rarely seen and swim suits, other than at the pool, would really look out of place. So, if you swim, bring a coverup or a robe. Some gentlemen can even be seen wearing sport coats during the day. Life on Minerva seems to be a bit dressier than on "contemporary" cruise lines.

Evenings are even more dressy with jacket and tie being suggested in the Swan Restaurant each evening. The attire for Veranda is smart casual, which technically means no shorts or swim suits. However, I felt under-dressed in jeans. In fact, after 6pm, throughout the ship, casual slacks and a polo shirt are about as casual as you will find with most men wearing jackets with tie.

The average age on our sailing was definitely at the upper end of the scale. I am in my late 50s and I suspect I might have been the youngest on the passenger list. I cannot say if that is typical for Swan Hellenic or not. However, the ship is definitely not geared toward families with small children or teens. There are no programs for kids and no staff to keep them entertained. This is a cruise for adults.

EVALUATION

Swan Hellenic has found a niche and done a very successful job of catering to it. The ship wants to appeal to mature adults who want to truly discover a destination. Even though they gear menus and lectures to British tastes and interests, Americans and Canadians should not let this stand in the way of experiencing this excellent ship. This ship has the most passionate following of loyal guests we have ever seen. And what are the top three reasons given for its popularity?

Size of the ship
Included gratuities and shore excursions
Open seating dining

Swan Hellenic not only takes you all over the world, they transport you back to a time when gentlemen dressed for dinner and cruising was about discovering new and exotic places. It's that whole nostalgia thing, and it appears to be working quite well.

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 12/9/12 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 12/9/12

Antarctica with Abercrombie and Kent

Abercrombie & Kent teams up with Ponant to provide a memorable Antarctica cruise experience.

"Why would you want to go there?" "What is there to see there?" "Where is it?", or simply "Why?" These are just a few of the reactions you get when you tell your friends and family that you are planning a trip to Antarctica. You might even hear one or two "Why go all the way up there?" Yes, Antarctica is THAT misunderstood.

When we were invited to experience Abercrombie & Kent's 12-night Classic Antarctica aboard Le Boreal, we jumped at the opportunity. Rickee has been wanting to visit Antarctica for years and, I must admit, I had more than a little curiosity about the frozen continent.

A&K and COMPAGNIE DU PONANT

Abercrombie & Kent is one of the most respected names in travel. They specialize in exotic destinations, unique travel experiences and high-end service for discerning vacationers. Compagnie Du Ponant is a French cruise line with a growing fleet of sleek, modern small ships. During the short Antarctic summer season, A&K partners with Compagnie Du Ponant by chartering Le Boreal, one of their three newest vessels, for four consecutive Antarctica itineraries. The onboard Expedition Crew is staffed by A&K while the ship's officers and crew are Companie Du Ponant employees. During these special sailings, all of the guests on board are A&K clients. The partnership seems to work very well, even synergistically.

WHY ANTARCTICA?

Let's go back to the question most often asked. A simple answer could be: "because it is there!" But that is not good enough for most people. First of all, most people who visit Antarctica are not necessarily "cruise people." In fact, most of the other guests we met on this sailing had never cruised before. It might be better to portray this trip as an "expedition" or an "adventure" instead of a "cruise." In Antarctica, much like Galapagos, the ship is really just a means to the end. Ironically, in the case of Antarctica, that literally means the "end of the Earth".

Antarctica is unquestionably the most remote, untouched place on Earth. That alone makes it interesting. There are no cities in Antarctica and it is not a country. While several countries have research stations located there, the Antarctic Treaty prevents any one country from laying claim to Antarctica. It might be helpful to know the difference between Antarctica (South Pole) and the Arctic (North Pole). Antarctica is a continent, or land surrounded by water. The Arctic is water surrounded by land, albeit frozen into ice for much of the year.

Antarctica is much more remote, much colder and has a much harsher environment than the Arctic. Temperatures at the South Pole can reach -70c. That's cold. Antarctica is at the center of much scientific research pertaining to the effects of global warming on sea life, the ocean and humans.

During the summer months, the landscape of Antarctica changes dramatically with the breaking up of the sea ice which creates massive icebergs that are carried by the ocean currents out to sea where they eventually break up and melt. Some of these icebergs can be miles long weighing hundreds of thousands of tons.

The Antarctic Peninsula, the northernmost point of the continent, is the easiest to reach by ship as it only takes about 2½ days sailing from Ushuaia, Argentina, to reach. In the summer, the peninsula and the surrounding islands are rich with sea life. Penguins, which are only found in the Southern Hemisphere, are the most prolific residents. However, 80% of the world's whales come here to feed in the krill-rich waters surrounding Antarctica. Penguins also feed on krill, a small shrimp-like crustacean. Leopard seals can be found here, too, and they feed on the penguins. In fact, penguins have no land predators. But, when they enter the water to feed, they can fall prey to leopard seals and even killer whales.

WHY ABERCROMBIE & KENT?

Once seeing the frozen continent has made its way to your bucket list, you will need to decide how you are going to see it and with whom. A cruise to Antarctica is not simply a "cruise to Antarctica." To fully experience this exotic destination requires experienced expedition staff who know the changing landscape and wildlife of Antarctica. Nobody in the industry is more respected when it comes to expeditionary travel than A&K.

*Richard Harker conducted an excellent series of lectures on photography in Antarctica*

In all honesty, Antarctica was on Rickee's bucket list, not mine. Even though I was curious about Antarctica, I questioned whether or not I would find it interesting or appealing. However, I was confident that with A&K we would see Antarctica as it was meant to be seen. Based on past experience, I looked forward to traveling with A&K regardless of the destination.

*Jannie Cloete, our excellent A&K Cruise Director*

You get a lot of little extras with A&K that you won't get with other tour operators or cruise lines. From the time you book your trip until you arrive back home, A&K is there to make sure everything goes smoothly. Their customer service is second-to-none. We saw this first-hand a few years ago when we were returning from a Kenya safari with A&K. Our flight from Nairobi to London was cancelled right before we left for the airport due to snow in London. After being re-booked on a different airline, an A&K representative picked us up at our hotel and drove us to the Nairobi airport. She even walked us through security, something we would have never figured out on our own at that confusing airport. And, as it turned out, we needed A&K's great service again on our Antarctica trip, as you will soon learn.

GETTING THERE

The Classic Antarctica itinerary begins with a day and night in Santiago, Chile. Most international flights arrive in Santiago early in the morning. Our American Airlines flight was scheduled to arrive in Santiago at 9am. The operative word being "scheduled." Our outbound flight was cancelled at around midnight. Without hesitation, we called A&K and immediately got a representative on the phone who assured us they were already aware of the cancellation and our delayed arrival and not to worry, someone would be in Santiago to meet us whenever we managed to arrive there.

I could go into more excruciating detail about our experience with American Airlines on this trip, but I will hold off for now. My only suggestion to you is, if you have any other airline choice, take it! We finally arrived in Santiago the following evening around midnight. This meant that we missed A&K's Santiago city tour and cocktail reception. However, as promised, the A&K representative was waiting for us when we arrived in Santiago. She escorted us to the line where we paid the required $160 'Reciprocity Fee' charged by Chile for foreign visitors. Then, she escorted us to the proper line for immigration and Customs. She had a mini-van waiting for us to deliver all nine of us to our hotel, the Grand Hyatt Santiago. By the time we arrived at the hotel, it was 2:00am and we were informed that we would need to meet in the lobby at 6:30am for the bus ride back to the airport. Three hours of sleep? Thanks AA.

The next morning, we met the rest of the group, about 150 people, in the lobby of the Grand Hyatt and boarded the motor coaches for the 20-minute ride back to the Santiago airport for the chartered flight to Ushuaia, Argentina. The difference between the chartered flight from LAN airlines and our AA flight was night and day. The aircraft was a shiny new A320 with leather seats. The flight crew was young, enthusiastic and very personable. They came through the aisle no less than four times with the beverage cart on our 3-hour flight.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, around 1:30pm. Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world at the very tip of Argentina. Ushuaia is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego, bounded on the north by the Martial mountain range and on the south by the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is where most cruise ships destined for Antarctica embark.

THE SHIP

Le Boreal is probably the sleekest cruise ship we have ever sailed on. She was launched in 2010 and she is already racking up a number of awards for small ship cruising. She is capable of carrying from 224 to 264 guests in 132 outside staterooms but for Antarctica voyages, A&K limits the number of passengers to a maximum of 199 guests. Le Boreal is the perfect size ship to fit into the tight areas of Antarctica and has the required reinforced hull to handle ice. Big ships just don't work too well in this remote destination. Le Boreal is owned and operated by Compagnie Du Ponant, a French company with which we were completely unfamiliar. However, after 12 nights aboard Le Boreal, we quickly became impressed with the level of service and personal attention. I see why A&K chose to partner with Compagnie Du Ponant.

*The marina on Deck 2 aft makes boarding Zodiacs a breeze*

Le Boreal has six decks accessible by guests. Deck 2 is dedicated to the La Licorne Restaurant. Deck 3 is the main lobby deck with Reception, gift shop, staterooms, Medical Center (with doctor and nurse) forward and the Grand Salon aft. On Deck 4 you will find more staterooms and the ship's theater located aft. Deck 5 has even more staterooms, the ship's bridge and the Ponant Yacht Spa located aft. Deck 6 is home to the Observation Lounge forward, staterooms and the La Boussole Restaurant located aft. There is also a pool deck aft of the La Boussole Restaurant. Deck 7 is basically a sun deck with an open-air bar which is not usually used when the ship is in Antarctica. Rickee did go up to Deck 7 to make a satellite phone call and she reported it was very cold up there!

Le Boreal has a single staircase amidships connecting all decks. There are two elevators amidships and one elevator forward. The ship is very logically designed and easy to navigate. There are lots of ramps and facilities to accommodate those with mobility issues. Perfectly suited for Antarctica is the marina located aft on Deck 2 where guests can easily board Zodiacs for the twice daily included excursions.

*The Observation Lounge is a great place to enjoy a drink with a view*

Le Boreal is very well suited for duty in Antarctica. While the reinforced hull can easily deal with large chunks of ice, the ergonomics of the ship lend themselves to sightseeing. Most of the staterooms have balconies, a great place to take in the Antarctic landscape without even leaving your room! There is plenty of open deck space for those wishing to don their red parkas provided by A&K and brave the elements.

Dining on Le Boreal begins at 6am with an Early Riser continental breakfast in the Grand Salon on Deck 3. Full breakfast is served in Le Licorne and Le Bousselle restaurants at 7am on most mornings. Both restaurants offer buffet, self-serve selections with Le Licorne also offering full-service menu items cooked to order. Lunch is served in both venues at 12:30pm and dinner is usually served around 7:30pm. All meals are open seating. Provisioning a ship for a 12-day Antarctica sailing is no easy task. Basically, whatever is loaded onto the ship in Ushuaia is what you have for the entire trip. There are no ports along the way where more provisions can be loaded. As a result, fresh fish and fresh meat is virtually impossible. For this reason, I am not sure it would be fair to judge any cruise line's cuisine based upon an Antarctica journey. That said, nobody went hungry. A few things really stood out as exceptional. All breads and pastries were amazing. The baguettes were fresh and crusty every day and the chocolate croissant in the morning was to die for. Complimentary red and white wine were offered at lunch and dinner and all of them we tried were good. An afternoon tea service was set up each day in the Grand Salon with a variety of tasty snacks and sweets served with a variety of hot teas and coffee. Soft drinks, bottled water, cocktails and wine were always complimentary.

*Plentiful buffet selections on Le Boreal*

Attire on board is very casual. Some did dress for the Captain's Reception and Captain's Farewell Dinner, but most did not. Since you had to take heavier clothes for the cold climate of Antarctica, baggage weight was an issue so anything not entirely "essential" was left at home. A&K did provide an opportunity to rent rubber boots which you picked up on the ship and then left them there when you departed. We purchased inexpensive but good rubber boots and took them with us then left them on the ship after the trip since they smelled a little bit like penguin guano! As mentioned, A&K provided a really nice, warm parka for each guest so you did not have to worry about packing a coat. The parka was ours to keep as were the water-resistant backpacks. One of the Expedition Team members even gave us a demonstration on how to fold the parka to make it easier to pack to take home.

THE ANTARCTICA EXPERIENCE

Antarctica is like no other place on Earth. Having been to Alaska on several occasions, I was expecting Antarctica to be similar. It wasn't. Antarctica is much more remote, more raw, more unspoiled, and notwithstanding a few small research stations, completely uninhabited.

Most journeys to Antarctica begin with a 2.5 day crossing of the Drake Passage, the body of water between the southern tip of South America at Cape Horn, Chile, and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica. It connects the southwestern part of the Atlantic Ocean with the southeastern part of the Pacific Ocean. "The Drake" has a reputation as one of the most turbulent bodies of water in the world. Twenty-foot high sea swells are not uncommon and guests are well advised to bring motion-sickness medication with them. When seas here are rough, it is referred to as the "Drake Shake." We were more concerned than normal about crossing The Drake since our stateroom was located on Deck 5 at the very front of the ship! That's where the most motion is on any ship. However, we were very fortunate to get the "Drake Lake" on our sailing with silky smooth seas on both the outbound and return trips.

*Zodiacs get you up close to the action*

The first evidence of Antarctica was when Captain Garcia came over the PA on Day 2 to announce a huge iceberg in the distance. He said it was very unusual to see one this far north. As we got closer, everyone scurried to a window or an outer deck to snap photos of the berg which had to have been at least three times as large as our ship. It would be just a small taste of what was to come.

Once we arrived at the Antarctic peninsula, our days were filled with Zodiac excursions, insightful lectures and unmatched sightseeing. Both amateur and professional photographers benefited from Richard Harker's excellent lecture series on photography in Antarctica. And, everyone was made much more aware of the impact rising temperatures globally are having on our environment and our own lives. Abercrombie & Kent and Compagnie du Ponant take preserving the environment very seriously and there is a lot of emphasis placed on green technologies and practices throughout the cruise. Antarctica is perhaps the most pristine environment in the world, and A&K is committed to keeping it that way.

Of course, Antarctica is much more than icebergs and snow-capped mountain ranges. There is an abundance of wildlife to enjoy here as well. When you think of Antarctica, you immediately think of penguins, at least I do. If you love the tuxedo-clad, chubby birds, you will not be disappointed. Nearly every day you will enjoy watching hundreds, or thousands of Adelie, Chinstrap and/or Gentoo penguins go about their nesting duties.They are pretty uninterested in humans and have no real fear of people. If you sit near a group of penguins, it probably won't be long before one or more will waddle up to you for a photo op. They are irresistibly cute and you cannot stop taking pictures of them. There are a variety of other sea birds here as well. Petrals, Gulls, Skua, Blue-eyed Shags and many more can all be found in the skies around the Antarctic peninsula.

*Chinstrap penguins are one of the three varieties of penguins we saw in Antarctica*

We were very surprised by the number of whales we saw. We saw Humpback, Fin, Minke and even Orca. Well, we did not actually see the Orca, but some in our group did. When whales are sighted, you really become aware of the advantage of cruising on a small ship like Le Boreal. Captain Garcia announces the whales' location over the PA and the ship slows down to follow the whales as close as possible allowing everyone on board an opportunity to get a good look, or a good photo. No matter how many times you see whales, it is always special. And the fact that Captain Garcia had an open-bridge policy gave everyone an opportunity to experience the best views on the ship! This worked well for us since we were right next door to the bridge.

*Thar' she blows! Whale sightings are common in Antarctica*

The most dramatic wildlife event of the trip was when our Zodiac came upon a leopard seal hunting, catching and killing an Adelie penguin. We were literally a few feet from the action as the huge leopard seal, larger than our Zodiac, gripped the penguin in his teeth and violently slapped him against the water surface in an attempt to kill him. He succeeded. I caught most of it on video (below).

VIDEO

A&K ADVANTAGE

There are several options when choosing an Antarctica journey. Compagnie Du Ponant even offers Antarctica salings over and above the ones contracted with A&K. However, the only thing in common is the ship. You get a lot of extras with A&K.

A&K Expedition Team
All English-speaking guides, lectures and tours
All guests on board are English-speaking
Complimentary wine with lunch and dinner
Complimentary bottled water, soft drinks
Complimentary cocktails
Signature A&K red parka
A&K backpack
Daily Lattitudes Newsletter delivered to stateroom
Daily recap briefing/cocktail party each evening with hors d'oeuvres
Airport transfers and meet & greet
Pre-cruise night in Santiago
In our opinion, these extras are well worth any extra cost of an A&K expedition.

CONCLUSION

Antarctica is a unique and fascinating destination that should be on every adventure-lover's bucket list. If you love the environment, wildlife, or just enjoy amazing landscapes, Antarctica will deliver. As with any exotic destination, Abercrombie & Kent really shines with exceptional service and value. Our recommendation? Book your 2013 Antarctica cruise now while you still can. These cruises sell out early, so don't wait! For more information, go to http://www.abercrombiekent.com/travel-destinations/antarctica-cruise/

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 7/16/11 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 7/16/11

Amazing Alaska on UnCruise Wilderness Discoverer

In spite of two broken ribs, this was the best Alaska cruise we have every experienced.

There are some very basic guidelines that one should follow through life. Caviar should only be eaten from a mother-of-pearl spoon; BBQ ribs and fried chicken should always be eaten with your hands, and so on. I would propose a new rule to follow: Alaska is best enjoyed when seen by small ship. There are some excellent Alaska cruises available on the mega ships, but until you have seen Alaska up-close and personal, you have not really seen Alaska. And, you simply cannot get intimate with this great state when you are surrounded by 2,000 other people scrambling to get the latest free trinket from Diamonds International in Juneau or Ketchikan. That's not Alaska.

For as long as I can remember, Cruise West was the predominant player in the small ship Alaska market. It was a great company with an excellent product. Unfortunately, the economy took its toll and Cruise West filed for bankruptcy in 2010. While it is sad to see a market leader go by the wayside, the demise of Cruise West left a vacuum that someone was sure to fill. Enter InnerSea Discoveries. A sister company to American Safari Cruises, InnerSea Discoveries comes to Alaska for its maiden season with two purpose-built vessels designed for serious adventure cruising. While not brand new ships, both have recently undergone major refurbishment and refitting to serve the unique purpose of sailing Alaska's Inside Passage.

“ “InnerSea Discoveries (now UnCruise Adventures) is the best way to see Alaska, hands down...””

— CruiseReport Editors

Having sailed in Alaska many times, on both large and small ships, we were looking forward to our 7-night Southeastern Alaska Inside Passage sailing on Wilderness Discoverer. Alaska is one of our favorite destinations and one of the few places in the world you can return to time and time again and never tire of the amazing scenery and wildlife. The pre-cruise documentation from InnerSea Discoveries, while scant, was specific. Guests are advised to only pack what they will need for the 7-day journey and to pack in a soft-sided duffel bag if possible so it is easier to stow the emptied bag under the bed. That is very good advice. In fact, we have included a packing list below for anyone planning an InnerSea Discoveries cruise. Please keep in mind that this is an adventure cruise. There are no formal nights and it is not necessary to "dress up" for dinner. It is casual in every sense of the word. Most wore "convertible" pants with the zip-off legs with a sweater and hiking boots to dinner, similar attire to what is worn during the day.

EMBARKATION

We arrived in Juneau following our seven hours of flying from Dallas to Seattle then on to Juneau. We were greeted in baggage claim by InnerSea Discoveries' ground transportation representatives who gave us luggage tags to add to our bags and quickly collected our larger checked bags to take them directly to the vessel. With our hand luggage, we were then transported to the Goldbelt Hotel at the edge of downtown Juneau where a hospitality suite was at our disposal until the 5:30 embarkation time. We basically had four hours to explore Juneau on foot.

After dropping our carry-on luggage at the Goldbelt, we headed off to explore all that downtown Juneau has to offer. There were four large ships docked in Juneau today, so the little main street was pretty busy. This main street is lined with souvenir shops, art galleries, bars, etc. Our first stop was a local drugstore to buy me a new pair of sunglasses. Mine fell apart as soon as we exited baggage claim!

““You weren’t jostling for a viewing spot on deck since there were fewer people on board. It was a great experience.””

— UnCruise Guest

As you walk farther south, toward where the larger ships dock, the town starts looking more "cruisey" with the ubiquitous Diamonds/Tanzanite International, Del Sol, et al. All the usual suspects are waiting to drain dollars from passengers on Carnival, Princess, Disney, or any other ship stopping here. So, if you want to experience the "charm" of Juneau, stay north of the famous Red Dog Saloon.

We were very fortunate that it was not raining during our brief visit to Juneau. It was cloudy and cool, but dry. Rain is very common in Alaska this time of year, so it was nice to be able to walk around and stay dry. By 3:30, we were back at the Goldbelt where many other guests were beginning to congregate. The hotel arranged for us to use their Wi-Fi for Internet access so we were able to send some last minute emails and re-connect with the outside world for what could be the last time over the next seven days. InnerSea Discoveries' ships do not have onboard Internet access, telephones or even television for that matter. We will go into more detail on this later in the review.

At 5pm, Kristen Roth (left), our Expedition Leader for the week, introduced herself to the crowd of anxious guests and invited us to walk across the street and join Wilderness Discoverer. Captain Marcella "Marce" Branniff was waiting at the gangway to greet each guest before we stepped on board. We boarded the ship on Deck 2, basically walking right into the ship's small lounge. A young man introduced himself as Connor and showed us to cabin #315, our home for the next week.

THE SHIP

Wilderness Discoverer is only slightly larger than her sister ship, Wilderness Adventurer. The ship is 169 feet long with a breadth of 38 feet and a draft of 6.5 feet. She has a cruising speed of 10 knots. Both ships have been outfitted with an Easy Dock at the stern capable of launching kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and zodiacs. Guest accommodations are on decks 2, 3 and 4 with a single staircase amidship. There is no elevator so those unable to traverse steps should be so advised. There is a cocktail lounge and dining area on Deck 2. The lounge also doubles as the ship's library which contains a small collection of books about Alaska, some board games and a few movie DVDs. The decor is rustic and simple, but everything looks new and recently updated.

“We never had a problem finding a good viewing spot...”

— Rickee Richardson, Senior Editor

Deck 3 is primarily guest cabins but also has an outer "promenade" deck that can be used as a viewing area. Aft on Deck 3 you will find two hot tubs, each capable of holding at least four guests. This is also the area from which you go down one deck to access the kayaks and board the rubber motorized inflatable skiffs. There are only four cabins on Deck 4 with the rest of the space used for a "sun deck" with outdoor seating, a small sauna, and some exercise equipment. All of the ship's kayaks, skiffs and paddle boards are stored aft on Deck 4. Forward, you will find the Bridge and more viewing area space overlooking the bow.

There is an onboard "logo" shop selling gear such as trekking poles, water bottles, polar fleece jackets, backpacks, hats, maps and other items needed for an adventure cruise in a temperate rain forest area.

The ship is small with an advertised capacity of 68 and, when it is fully booked, can feel a little crowded at times, but not uncomfortably so. We never had a problem finding a good viewing spot on deck, or a place to sit to enjoy a meal or a drink in the lounge even though it was reported that there were 72 passengers on this trip, including a 5-month-old infant!

ACCOMMODATIONS

While there are a few different cabin categories on Wilderness Discoverer, all share one common feature. They are all small. Our cabin (315) was only 8' X 10' including the bathroom and closet! The closet is able to hold a modest amount of clothing and has three shelves and a hanging bar but no drawers. We had to remove the life vests from one of the shelves and put them under the bed in order to have more space to put our clothes. Fortunately, each cabin has a lot of hooks on the wall where you can hang items like jackets, pajamas, shirts, and these really come in handy. Each cabin even has hooks outside in the hallway for hanging items that may be damp such as rain gear, hats, and gloves. By the second day of the cruise, hallways are lined with rain gear and even rubber boots! Each cabin is assigned a locker located outside on Deck 3 where you can also store rubber boots, rain gear or snorkel gear.

The bathroom is about as small as one can imagine but has a nice full-length mirror on the outside of the door. The shower and toilet are combined, separated only by a shower curtain that you pull when you use the shower. The towels are stored above the toilet so the curtain prevents them from getting wet when the shower is used. Water pressure and temperatures were spot-on and the removable handheld wand comes in handy in the limited space. There is no shelf in the shower stall to hold your own shampoo, conditioner, razor, etc. There is a dispenser attached to the shower wall that holds shampoo and body wash. The shampoo is supposed to be "conditioning" shampoo, but if you use conditioner on your hair, bring it with you. Also, if you want body lotion, you must request it. InnerSea Discoveries claims that "one of the primary features of our “un-cruises” is our ability to cater to individual needs." We found this to be a true statement! When Rickee requested body lotion from Terry Rice, the Hotel Manager, he had to give her a large tube since they were currently out of the small bottles. He listened to her request and did what he had to in order to make sure she received what was requested.

Recommended Packing List

Collapsible soft-sided duffel-style luggage
Rubber boots at least 12" tall (the ship has some for you to use but it may be hard to find your proper size)
Long thermal underwear
Sunscreen
Sunglasses (yes, the sun does shine occasionally)
Binoculars (ship has several pair if you don't have any)
Hiking shoes or boots (running shoes with good traction will suffice)
Rainproof jacket and pants (the ship has some for passenger use, but size might be an issue. It WILL rain!)
Several pair of socks made from moisture-wicking materials
Waterproof gloves (does such an item really exist?!)
Waterproof hat
Warm jacket
Water bottle (the ship has two per room but they are not new)
Casual clothing suited for a cool, rainy climate. It is best to dress in layers.

The small sink is located in the cabin itself with a large mirrored medicine cabinet overhead. So if you get up early in the morning to brush your teeth or wash your face and turn on the light above the sink, you may wake up your better half who is still asleep. However, it gets light so early in Alaska that the cabin usually has enough natural light by which to maneuver. There is an outlet located right above the sink that Rickee used when she plugged in the hair dryer that is furnished. In fact, this small cabin had more outlets available than any other ship on which we've sailed!

There is a small bedside table large enough to hold a laptop computer, water bottles, etc. It held an Ipod/iPhone docking station with speakers so you could listen to your Ipod music in the cabin. This bedside table also had a pull-out tabletop and a shelf below. A narrow shelf runs the full width of the cabin just behind and above the bed that can also hold a variety of smaller items like cell phones, digital cameras, binoculars, etc. Four electrical outlets were located under this shelf.There is small window with no screen that can be opened to let in fresh, cool Alaskan air. A shade is attached at the top of the window and can be raised and lowered by an attached cord. Remember, the window looks out over a public walkway! A light with a dimmer knob and another electrical outlet is attached to the wall above and on either side of the bed. A small air conditioning unit hangs ominously over one side of the bed, so caution is advised to prevent banging your head when getting out of bed. The doorway into the stateroom is about 73" tall, which works fine unless you happen to be 74" tall like me. You would think after the second time banging the top of my head on the door facing I would learn to duck. I didn't.

““The memory foam mattress is one of the most comfortable we have slept on...””

— CruiseReport

The highlight of the cabin is the bed. The memory foam mattress is one of the most comfortable we have slept on. There are no chairs in the cabin, so if you plan to sit, you must do so on the bed. There are a few slightly larger cabins that do have a small sitting area, but ours did not. A few cabins have a door that opens out to the deck and a few cabins have a third bed that pulls down from the wall. The ship also offers a few cabins for single travelers.

There is a flat screen TV/DVD in each cabin. All cabins are linked electronically so that videos shot during each day can be shared across the ship on designated channels. Television channels are unavailable due to the remote areas we are visiting. One channel has the view from the ship's underwater camera mounted on the bow hull; one channel has the daily menus and list of activities; and one channel shows eco-documentaries. There is no telephone in the cabin but it is only a short distance to go if you need to find a crew member. The ship does have a satellite phone available on the Bridge and you can make a call for $5 per minute. Of course, no Internet service is available. However, in certain locations near larger towns, a cell signal was available and I was able to use my cell phone.

The door to the cabin could only be locked from the inside so you didn't have to worry about losing a room key. Coats and gloves and boots were hung in the hallway all the time. No worries! However, it is a good idea to be sure your name is placed on all your items.

Jackets and boots can remain in the hallway

Cabins are serviced once a day, and guests are encouraged to conserve water and re-use towels. Here's a tip: it is nice to take your towel and dry the shower floor and dry the edge of the shower curtain after you finish so the next person entering the bathroom does not have to step on wet floors or brush up against a wet shower curtain when using the toilet. Remember to put the bath mat OUTSIDE the bathroom door. If the next person wants to shower, either hang the used towels up on a hook outside, or if you want them replaced, put them in the sink until the second person is finished showering, then put them on the shower floor. It took a day or so to work out all the logistics of the cabin and bathroom, but once we got a routine down, it was easy and really very practical.

ACTIVITIES

Experiencing Alaska is what InnerSea Discoveries (ISD) specializes in. A lot of thought and planning has gone into organizing a week's worth of activities designed to give guests a true Alaska immersion. Every Alaska adventure activity is ranked with an Activity Level Rating and Activity Description to ensure that you feel comfortable with your selection. Activities include hikes, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and small boat sightseeing. All of these are included in the cost of the cruise. Optional excursions for a fee are also available such as "flightseeing" by float plane, fishing, a petroglyph walk and jet boating.

Each evening after dinner, Kristen would announce the following day's activity choices. A large magnetic whiteboard is used so guests can sign up for their chosen activity. Kayaking and hikes usually start around 9am so there is plenty of time for everyone to enjoy breakfast before engaging in the day's activities, even those who chose to participate in early-morning yoga held on Deck 4. Some hikes and guided kayak excursions are all-day affairs, in which case the galley prepares "to go" lunches in bear-proof plastic boxes and snacks that guests can take with them on their journey. Many activities, however, are split between morning and afternoon, returning to the ship for lunch. Often, guests are able to choose one activity in the morning and another one in the afternoon.

The Wilderness Discoverer employs experienced excursion guides, most of whom are certified Wilderness First Responders, that lead various hikes and guided kayak trips. We found every guide to be very well versed in the local environment and willing to share their depth of information.

As stated earlier, the ship carries its own fleet of two-person kayaks. When the ship is anchored in calm waters, "open kayaking" is available. This means guests can simply jump in a kayak and head off exploring on their own. Of course, the Captain advises kayakers of the boundaries for safety reasons. And, the ship will deploy a skiff to go check on kayaks that stray beyond the recommended boundaries. However, ISD is fairly liberal in where they will allow you to explore on your own. That is a very nice feature for those who are comfortable kayaking. The kayaks themselves were new models and in excellent working condition. When preparing for a kayak trip, in addition to your life jacket, you would put on a "skirt" which attached to the kayak around where you are seated and kept you dry! We had kayaked before but had never used a skirt. It was a nice feature. Also, getting in and out of the kayak was so much easier using the "Easy Dock" which was a floating, stable platform at the rear of the ship on which the kayaks rested. Once you were comfortably seated in the kayak, the guides pushed you out into the water. When you wanted to come back to the ship, you paddled up to the Easy Dock and the guides pulled the kayak onto the Easy Dock using a rope attached to the front of the kayak. Nice!

We boarded the small rubber motorized skiffs on several occasions to visit glaciers and explore waterfalls. Sometimes we would just ride around taking in the magnificent scenery that surrounded us. These skiffs transported us to places where we hiked, like Baird Glacier and Tongass National Forest. In Misty Fjords National Monument, while we were motoring around looking at the gorgeous scenery, we were able to spot a grizzly bear on shore and get to within about 100 yards of him and observe from our location on the water. We spotted a total of three bears in various locations while sailing through the majestic Misty Fjords. We have been to Alaska five times but this is the first time we have ever seen bears.

From the ship, we observed humpback whales and on our last day, orca! We spotted eagles in the surrounding trees and saw harbor seals poke their little heads up above the water, only to quickly disappear. The variety of birds was astounding. If you forgot to bring binoculars, don't worry. The ship has several pair that they will be glad for you to use.

Wilderness Discoverer carries several stand-up paddle boards for guests to use. I must admit, I was skeptical that anyone would climb onto what looks like a surfboard and venture out into the cold waters of Alaska standing up and paddling themselves along! But the guests are a hardy bunch and several learned how to use the paddle boards and enjoyed propelling themselves through the beautiful Alaskan waters.

In order for the crew to ascertain who is and is not on the ship, there is a magnetic board with all the cabin numbers and two magnets (or more) for each cabin. Any time you leave the ship, you must move your magnets to the "OUT" column. When you come back, you must move your magnets back to the "IN" column of the board. Failure to do so will result in your cabin number, and maybe even your name, being announced over the loud-speaker system for all to hear. I speak from experience and can say that, most likely, you won't forget to check-in a second time!

Captain Marce (as she prefers to be called) has an "open Bridge" policy and encourages all passengers to visit the Bridge sometime during the voyage. She is a very visible, hands-on type and it was not unusual to see her delivering cocktails to guests in the hot tubs or chatting with guests on deck. She has a great sense of humor and it is obvious that she loves her job. I still would like to see her driver's license. There is no way she can be the age she claims to be. She looks to be about 18! The day we all returned to the ship from the glacier hike, Captain Marce greeted us with hot chocolate laced with chocolate Schnapps. Nice! It was a pleasure sailing with her, and with the rest of her crew as well.

A Hike, A Camera, and Two Broken Ribs

On the fourth day of the cruise, we signed up for the fast-pace group hike of Three Lakes Trail in Tongass National Forest. The "trail" is actually a wooden boardwalk about 15 inches wide leading through the rain forest. Most, but not all, of the boardwalk is covered with a rope mesh to aid in traction. However, there are some spots where the mesh has not been maintained and is non-existent. These areas can become very slippery from rain. About 1.5 miles into our three-mile hike, both of my feet completely slipped out from under me and I fell flat on my back landing on my Go-Pro camera that was in the pocket of my rain jacket. I was blinded by the pain and had the wind knocked out of me. The excursion leader was leaning over me asking if I was okay, but I could not breathe, let alone speak. I felt a stabbing, sharp pain in the right side of my back. It was bad, and I knew it. It took a few moments for me to catch my breath and I was somehow able to be hoisted to my feet. I tried to continue with the hike, but there was no way. Every step resulted in excruciating pain.

Jen slow walks me back to the Zodiac for a painful ride back to the ship

I told the group leader, Laurie, that I would not be able to continue at which point she summoned Jenn, another ship crew member, to escort Rickee and me back to the ship. Once back on board Wilderness Discoverer, Kevin Martin, the ship's first mate came to the cabin to check me out. Although not a doctor, he knew how to check my spine for damage and used a stethoscope to check my breathing. He mentioned that there was a guest on board who was an ER doctor and asked if I would mind if he checked me out. I said no problem and within an hour, Brian was in the cabin making me raise my arms and poking around. He felt relatively sure what I suspected, that I had broken a rib in the fall. He instructed me to take Aleve and just try to stay comfortable. The next few days were rough, but the Captain and crew were great. Everyone was always checking on me to see how I was doing. Even the other guests on board continued to ask how I was and sympathized with my situation. It is ironic that I have ridden a motorcycle every day for the past six years and never even stubbed my toe, but walking in Alaska, I bust my butt. After returning to Dallas, I decided to have an x-ray and sure enough, two ribs broken.

The ship provided me with a supply of Aleve for my pain

I tell this story to warn you that it is very important to wear the proper footwear when hiking in Alaska (or anywhere else). And, even with the proper footwear, you have to pay attention and be careful at all times. That said, I would do the hike again in a heartbeat! The area where we were hiking was incredibly beautiful.

DINING

All meals are served buffet-style in the dining room on Deck 2. Meals can best be described as simple, basic fare. If you are expecting a "typical" cruise ship menu with lots of exotic choices, you will be disappointed. If, however, you enjoy simple fare that is well prepared, you are in luck. Every dish we tried was above average. The preparation and seasoning of the dishes was better than you might expect on such a small ship. So, not a lot of choices, but lots of flavor.

Early risers can enjoy coffee as early as 5am. Good job ISD! And, the coffee is actually pretty good, not the swill you typically find on cruise ships. As anyone who follows our blogs and reviews knows, cruise ship coffee is one of my biggest complaints. InnerSea Discoveries has avoided my wrath in this area. By 6am, a continental-style selection of pastries, bagels, English muffins, cereals, yogurt and fresh fruit is available. Hot breakfast is served from 7:00am to 8:00am (or 7:30am to 8:30am depending on the day). The hot breakfast menu changes every day. The big winner at breakfast was the amazing thick bacon.

Lunch is served from 12 noon until 1pm. Lunch offerings can be as simple as a couple of soup choices and salad. There is usually one meat dish offered and a vegetarian option. There is also a single dessert offered at each meal service. Like I said, "simple". For those diners with special dietary needs, just let the kitchen know and they will accommodate you. It was not unusual to see lactose-free or gluten-free items on the buffet.

Dinner is served from 7:00pm to 8:00pm and, like lunch, usually offers a meat or fish dish, a vegetarian option and accompanying salad and vegetables. All seating is open, so you can sit wherever or with whomever you wish. You can even take your meal into the adjoining lounge area if you wish to dine there.

Even though all meals are buffet-style, wait staff is available to bring you a choice of drinks, or get anything else you may need. It was amazing how quickly all the crew learned and used the passengers' names! We were well taken care of by Nee, Connor, Brenden and Sean. One morning, Rickee was running late for breakfast (as usual), and Nee, one of our favorite wait staff, noticed this and went to our cabin to tell Rickee that they were about to start putting breakfast away and ask if she could put something aside for her. Now that is service!

There is a Cocktail Hour each evening in the lounge at 5:30pm. The crew lays out a very nice selection of snacks during the Cocktail Hour that often filled us to the point that we would skip dinner! One night, the spread was Dungeness crab legs from crab that some passengers had caught. Another night it was mounds of boiled shrimp and cocktail sauce! Any cocktail you desire is available from Sean or Danielle at the bar as well as a selection of beer and wine. Prices are very competitive and they have a "drink of the day" each day at a reduced price. A Dewars on the rocks is only $5. A glass of beer, $4. Soft drinks, tea, lemonade and most coffees are complimentary. Help yourself from pitchers of water and iced tea and lemonade set on one side of the bar on Deck 2 and available all day.

Captain Marce referred to Chef Ashley as a "rock star". We agree. The menus were limited and the food simple, but the execution was near perfect. Simple food, quality ingredients served in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. What more could you ask for?

DISEMBARKATION

Leaving Wilderness Discoverer was as easy as joining her had been! Bags had to be out in the hall by 7:30am the day we got off the ship and they were taken directly to the Ketchikan airport. This worked well for those who needed to use liquids or gels that were larger than 3 ounces that morning so that these items could be packed in the luggage to be checked. A hardy farewell breakfast was served in the dining room and a guest speaker, who is a Tlingit Indian, spoke to us about the Tlingit culture. He brought his 11-year-old granddaughter along to model the typical Tlingit women's attire. As we left Wilderness Discoverer, the entire crew was lined up out on the dock to bid us farewell. After saying our goodbyes and thanking the crew again for a great week, we headed to the bus to be transported to the Cape Fox Hotel to another hospitality suite to await our 10am transportation to the Ketchikan airport. Since we had never flown into or out of Ketchikan before, we were surprised to learn that we would have to take a ferry to reach the airport. This wasn't a big deal, though, as the van in which we were riding drove onto the ferry and then drove off and up the hill to the airport where our luggage was already waiting.

SUMMARY

As we previously stated, we are big fans of small-ship cruising in Alaska. Not having to fight for space at the rail with 2500 other people is a big deal. Being able to modify your times and itinerary to go to where the wildlife has been spotted or to take the time to enjoy wildlife you have been lucky enough to find, is a big deal. Yes, the cabins are small, but you don't spend that much time in your cabin. You will be out in the cool weather enjoying the majestic beauty that is Alaska. This cruise can be as active as you want it to be. You can hike or kayak or paddle board or small boat ride. Or, you can just enjoy the scenery from the deck or the lounge. The crew of Wilderness Discoverer could not have been nicer! In our opinion, InnerSea Discoveries is the best way to see Alaska, hands down!

What We Like:

Great itinerary
Excellent activity choices included in cruise fare
Warm, capable and inviting crew
Relaxed, casual atmosphere
Best cocktail hour anywhere (amazing appetizers!)
Open kayaking and paddle boarding opportunities included in cruise fare
Flexible itinerary allows extensive whale and bear watching
Good value for dollar
Good coffee!

What We Would Like To See:

Need a small shelf in shower
More hooks!

ITINERARY

One of the benefits of cruising on a small ship is the ability to modify the itinerary to locate wildlife or journey off the scheduled route if wildlife is spotted somewhere else. When wildlife is spotted, the ship can linger and watch without worrying about arriving at the next port on time. Several times, we anchored overnight in protected coves and, after leaving Juneau, only visited one more town during the entire cruise. This was an "adventure" cruise specializing in viewing wildlife and taking advantage of all the natural beauty Alaska has to offer. We were able to get closer to glaciers for great viewing opportunities and sail near waterfalls. You weren't jostling for a viewing spot on deck since there were fewer people on board. It was a great experience.

Day 1: Juneau- Embark

After being met at the airport and surrendering our checked luggage, we rode to the Goldbelt Hotel where InnerSea Discoveries had a hospitality room. We dropped our carry-on here and went out walking in the cool, damp Juneau air. With four other ships in port, Juneau was crowded. At 5:30, we walked across the street from the hotel and boarded Wilderness Discoverer.

Day 2: Chuck River Wilderness / Frederick Sound

Today we boarded the 10-passenger skiff and sailed to within about a mile of Sawyer Glacier. Lots of "bergy bits" were floating in the water around us and the glacier itself was incredible! We also sailed through Tracy Arm and explored some of its many waterfalls from the motorized skiff. The weather this morning is glorious with blue skies and warmer temperatures. This weather is not like Alaska at all! When we reached Frederick Sound, we were rewarded with several sightings of humpback whales. While we were viewing whales, Danielle, a crew member, brought around delicious hot chocolate to warm us up. Nice touch!

Day 3: Thomas Bay/Cascade Creek/ Baird Glacier

A hike to Baird Glacier was on the agenda for this afternoon. The weather is cool and rainy, just the way Alaska should be! After breakfast, we decided to kayak. The ship had anchored in Thomas Bay overnight and moved to Sanctuary Cove for the kayaking. The water was calm and the scenery amazing! It is so easy to get in and out of the kayak using the Easy Dock. Some guests tried stand-up paddle boarding. Looks like fun! The hike on Baird Glacier, even though we were in what was designated as the slow-paced group, was challenging, especially in the rain. Just getting off the skiff on the boulders was difficult! You had to be careful to watch for holes in the ice on the glacier and not step in one or slip on the slick surface. Wearing rubber boots was a good call, especially when we came to the "boot-sucking mud" portion of the trail! Rain pants and jacket were a "must" today. Randall Tate, our guide for the glacier hike, made sure to bring trekking poles along for us to use which came in handy. Some guests took a 5-mile hike to the glacially-fed Patterson Lake where they kayaked. When we returned to the ship, Captain Marce greeted us with hot-chocolate laced with chocolate Schnapps! Delicious.

Day 4: LeConte Bay/ Ideal Cove/ Wrangell Narrows

The Wilderness Discoverer was anchored in Ideal Cove on this drizzly, overcast day. Offerings included an all-day hike with picnic lunch or a guided kayaking tour. We decided to relax this morning and signed up for a hike this afternoon. After lunch, we boarded the skiff and headed for shore to hike in the rainforest. We were told to wear the rubber boots to get off the skiff and bring hiking boots/shoes to wear for the hike itself which would take place on a narrow boardwalk. Once we stepped onto the narrow boardwalk, the scenery was so beautiful! It was as if we had entered the tropics. Lush greenery and tall trees were all around us. And the temperature got warmer, too, causing all to start peeling off layers of clothes. The hike had flat parts and parts where you had to climb fairly steep steps. We crossed over creeks and passed a lake. To be safe, you had to keep your eyes on the narrow boardwalk trail while you walked, so we stopped often to just take it all in. Unfortunately, this is where Chris fell and broke two ribs! The hike came to a premature end for us. However, it was truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Later this evening, it was fun to stand at the bow of the ship and watch the red and green lights of Wrangell Narrows, also known as "Christmas Tree Lane."

Day 5: Wrangell

We awoke to an overcast, cool, drizzly day. A lot of the optional excursions were departing from Wrangell and the crew had provided a map of the town with suggestions on self-guided walks for those who were not taking an excursion here. We ventured out in the rain and walked up the dock area and found a coffee shop that had Wi-Fi so we could connect to the outside world again. You could also use your cell phone here. In the afternoon, the ship offered a visit to Chief Shakes' Tribal House. It was a nice walk to the other end of town to get to the Tribal House. Here we were welcomed and entertained by a group of Tlingit elders who sang songs, told us stories about their culture and answered questions. After the presentation, we could explore the grounds and the totem poles and then walk back to the ship. I stopped at a grocery store on the way back to the ship to pick up some more pain medication for Chris. The sun came out during my walk back to the ship and the weather was beautiful! There was a huge bald eagle sitting on top of a light post on the dock.

Day 6: Yes Bay

Today we awoke to beautiful sunny skies! This is the place where a lot of people are taking "flightseeing" trips. From the ship, we can see the little float planes taking off and landing at a dock at a lodge on the shore. Today you could also go on an all-day guided kayak trip with picnic lunch, or a 2.5 hour guided kayak trip. Open kayak time and paddle boarding was also offered. You could also take what was described as a "Level 3" hike or a motorized inflatable boat ride. The scenery here is beautiful. There are several eagles in the trees on shore. The water is calm. We are surrounded by the Tongass National Forest to add to the beauty. We opted for a boat ride in a motorized 10-passenger inflatable.

Day 7: Misty Fjords National Monument (Walker Cove/ Rudyerd Bay)

Affectionately called "The Yosemite of the North", Misty Fjords National Monument represents nearly every ecosystem found in Southeast Alaska. Glacial valleys filled with sea water and steep, sometimes sheer, walls are a haven for wildlife. Here you could kayak or explore by skiff soaking in the splendor of this wonderful area. We boarded the 10-person inflatable to explore this beauty and started by getting close to some amazing waterfalls. As we headed to the end of the cove, Aaron, the bosun driving the inflatable, spotted a bear on shore. Our first Alaska bear! We got as close as we dared, then just sat there in our boat for quite some time, watching the bear eat grass and dig for clams on the shore. Soon, the word got out to the kayakers about the bear and they all descended on the area, too. It must have been quite a scene from the Bridge! As we sailed toward Ketchikan through Misty Fjords, the scenery was amazing. We spotted two more bears in different areas, and Captain Marce took the ship as close as safely possible for us to view the bears. Apparently, this is another popular area for float planes as several kept buzzing by the ship and taking off and landing. It was such a beautiful day that most passengers were sitting out on Deck 4 watching the incredible scenery. When it was almost time for dinner, someone spotted a large pod of killer whales (orca)! Could this day get any better?!

Day 8: Ketchikan - Disembark

It is raining in Ketchikan (no surprise!) but Ketchikan is officially one of the rainiest places on Earth! We hate to leave the cool, wet weather of Alaska to head back to hot, dry Texas, but our journey has ended. We thoroughly enjoyed our time aboard Wilderness Discoverer. Her crew is young, enthusiastic, friendly and hard-working. Her captain is a gem. We hope to sail on her again some day.

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COMMENTS

JEANNE JACOBSON

Thanks for the excellent review and suggestions for what to take on the cruise. We are cruising Kechikan to Juneau in June and are very excited. Sunday, February 23, 2014 5:02 PM

CRUISEREPORT.COM EDITOR

@Nancy, you won't regret it. THIS is the way to see Alaska! Tuesday, October 22, 2013 6:16 AM

NANCY

I have read all of the reviews. I think this is the trip for me. I have been on a large cruise ship through the intercoastal and broke my shoulder dog sledding. I would be a single but this sounds like a trip I would love. Last Alaska trip saw so many bears fishing. looking forward to visiting again. Monday, October 21, 2013

MICHAEL

This cruise sounds wonderful - we are considering it for 2014 - can anyone comment on how often you see the big cruise ships while in transit? Wednesday, July 17, 2013 12:59 PM

RO IN SAN DIEGO

I am booked on this trip with my husband next week and was glad I stumbled upon this review. We have sailed on small ships and this detailed review is very helpful - especially with our packing! Thursday, May 2, 2013 2:27 AM

ANGELA & ROBIN

We were considering doing this trip in August - your wonderful review just clinched it for us. We have never done a cruise before as the thought of 2000 (or even 200) people on a large boat does not attract at all and much prefer the smaller group experience. This seems perfect! Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:32 PM

BCLOWERS

Great review! I appreciate you including your fall. Accidents happen and it's good to know how it was handled and apparently no one freaked out, took the walk off the itinerary and no one sued. What a relief! Tuesday, January 1, 2013 1:54 PM

WOODY KNEPPRETH

My wife and I just did the Ketchikan - Juneau trip and had the most wonderful time. The staff is great and there was always something to do. Can't recommend more. It's great! Saturday, September 22, 2012 4:03 PM

REGINA BERENS

My husband and I just took the Juneau-to-Ketchikan itinerary and loved it so much we put down a deposit on the reverse itinerary, most likely in 2014. Everything in the review is true- with the caveat that weather varies and so do the critters who feel like showing up in any particular place/time. I'd add that we had a wide variety of fitness levels on our cruise- from intrepid preteens up to 80-year olds. Everybody had fun; there were so many different opportunities that everyone got out and saw Alaska. The staff was very good about describing each expedition so you knew exactly what might make it challenging. I did a hike that was way beyond anything I'd ever attempted, but given the description I figured I could do it- and I was right. This is truly the way to see Alaska. Tuesday, July 17, 2012 3:26 PM

ANNE AND STEVE

We came over to Alaska last year from Scotland to celebrate our Silver Wedding Anniversary. We took this cruise in June last year and had the most fantastic holiday imagineable. Crew were fantastic, scenery amazing, the whole experience out of this world. Can't praise it highly enough. The review is so accurate ans I really enjoyed reading it. Monday, June 11, 2012 2:35 AM

SUSAN DICKENS

Thank you so much for this review. I am excited to be booked to go in July this year. Just a bit worried about the luggage situation as we are travelling for another 7 weeks after the cruise. Maybe my husband will have to sleep outside so I can fit my bag in the cabin! Saturday, June 9, 2012 6:44 PM

JANET STEVENS

I was on this trip and it was fantastic!!!! How is your rib? Fully healed? Friday, June 8, 2012 9:22 PM

LINDA J

Good info and this is the trip we are taking later this month. After reading ad watching your video, I am super excited!! We like to travel the off beaten track and like the small more intimate venue that InnerSeas offers. Tuesday, June 5, 2012 8:02 PM

RICKEE RICHARDSON

@William, this is something you should ask ISD directly. I am sure they will try to accommodate you. Saturday, March 24, 2012 1:33 PM

WILLIAM WHITE

Is it possible to disembark as soon as the boat docks? I need to make the 9:00AM flight out of Ketchikan for connections to San Antonio Texas, the last of which departs Seattle at 3:10. The later departures from Ketchikan are at 12:28 and 1:27 both of which arrive in Seattle at 3:10 & 4:20 respectively. My email is billcwhite@aol.com, if anyone has some information. Saturday, March 24, 2012 12:53 PM

DAN KENEVAN

We were on the Sept 2nd to 10th trip. I had no interest in going on this trip and I was wrong. This was truely an amazing trip and the staff were outstanding. I loved this more than any trip we have ever taken. thanks to my wife for making me go!!!! Amazing. Tuesday, September 13, 2011 10:30 AM

PAM PEDERSEN

I was on this cruise with my husband, Steve, and son, Travis. This was truly a trip of a lifetime. Words cannot describe the beauty. My next dream vacation: joining the crew for a trip up the Western Coves! Monday, August 15, 2011 7:57 AM

JOANNE SPINA

we are preparing for the cruise at the end of Aug. it is the reverse trip form Ketichan tp Juneau. I'm sure it will be just as magnificent. Knowing waht to expect in every detail made a big difference thanks wrtie more after the trip Sunday, August 7, 2011 11:14 AM

BEV HARDING T

The was also my first cruise and I highly recommend it to anyone interested in seeing Alaska. The big cruise ships cannot give you the experiences you will have on this cruise! The crew is great and you have a chance to know interact with your fellow passengers. Chris & Rickee - wonderful website! Saturday, August 6, 2011 4:20 PM

BRIAN CLARE

A great experience and great review!!! Best vacation we have ever been on!!,, hope you feel better chris!!! Thursday, August 4, 2011 5:25 PM

L. CORRELL

Just booked our Alaska trip aboard the Discoverer for 2012. Can't wait. Great review! Wednesday, August 3, 2011 4:13 AM

SUNSTONE TOURS

Great Review !! Tuesday, August 2, 2011 8:26 PM

JANET STEVENS

I was on this very cruise and agree wholeheartedly. We had a wonderful time and I am missing the friendly crew and great passengers (not to mention the beautiful scenery) already. The most amazing thing... when passenger Travis insisted there were orca behind us as we left a cove, Capt. Marce turned the ship around and we went back. We went back!!! We we rewarded with a pod of five orcas that swam along side the ship during dinner. I don't think a big ship would ever do that! Monday, August 1, 2011 11:44 PM

PHIL CROMER

Rikee and Chris' comments are professional, accurate, and highly descriptive of our experience. I would emphasize additionally the ultimate relaxation along with the adventure and the quality and highly interesting passengers on this cruise. Our first trip to Alaska, and first cruise of this type. Would do it over in a heartbeat! Monday, August 1, 2011 10:45 AM

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/6/11 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 5/6/11

China and South Korea aboard Silver Shadow

We spend Eleven glorious nights aboard Silver Shadow sailing from Shanghai, China to Incheon, South Korea.

Silversea Cruises does not need me to tell the world that it is a great luxury cruise line. Nevertheless, running the risk of stating the obvious, that is exactly what I intend to do. I can't think of another cruise line that has racked up more awards and accolades from industry magazines and organizations. Back when CruiseReport.com com was doling out annual Editor's Choice awards, Silversea received top honors in the luxury cruise category 5 out of 6 years!

“Silversea is unquestionably one of the few great cruise lines in the world.”

— CruiseReport

Needless to say, when we were presented with the opportunity to sail on Silver Shadow from Shanghai, China, to Tokyo, Japan, we quickly began re-arranging our other assignments and making plans to join the ship. Sadly, the tsunami and nuclear disaster in Japan forced Silversea to modify the itinerary and eliminate port calls in Hiroshima and Tokyo for safety's sake. Like a lot of other Silversea guests, we were disappointed that we would not get to visit Japan, but we knew that whatever Silversea put together as a replacement would be great.

PRE-CRUISE IN SHANGHAI, CHINA

We have always been big proponents of pre-/post-cruise packages. Why travel halfway around the world to some of the most exotic cities, only to get off an airplane and drag your jet-lagged self to the ship? There is a 13-hour time difference between Dallas and Shanghai, so jet-lag is a given. Even though we should have scheduled at least three days in Shanghai, our schedule would only allow for two. Since our flight arrived into Shanghai at around 8pm, the first day/night consisted of nothing more than getting to the hotel and going to bed.

For our stay in Shanghai, we chose the Fairmont Peace Hotel, located right on the Bund, the most famous waterfront property in Asia. A cruise aboard a luxury cruise line like Silversea demands a pre-/post-cruise stay at an equally luxurious hotel/resort. The Fairmont Peace Hotel did not disappoint in this regard. This beautiful vintage property has been lovingly restored to become one of the nicest properties we have ever visited, and we have been fortunate to visit quite a few. If you are planning a cruise into or out of Shanghai, please read our review of Fairmont Peace Hotel.

Silversea Silver ShadowAfter a night of full, deep "jet-lag" sleep, we arose the next morning and readied ourselves for our 9am city tour with SAT tours. We booked a full-day Shanghai city tour with Min Min, owner of SAT tours, via email a couple of weeks before our departure. We had read good things about SAT on other websites and decided to give them a try. As it turns out, this was an excellent choice. Our driver and guide showed up promptly at 9am to pick us up for the tour. We spend the entire day experiencing a variety of amazing sights and activities. To read our full review of SAT Tours, click here.

On our third day in Shanghai, the day of embarkation, we spent the morning walking up and down the famous Nanjing Road, the longest pedestrian shopping street in Asia. The location of the Peace Hotel is perfect for getting out and walking around town on your own. However, remember that few people here speak English.

Shanghai is one of the most vibrant and exciting cities we have ever visited. The modern skyscrapers are amazing. There are excellent restaurants, luxurious hotels and unlimited shopping opportunities. This is definitely one city that deserves at least three days to explore before or after a cruise.

EMBARKATION

After spending the morning walking up and down Nanjing Road in Shanghai, we returned to the Peace Hotel and requested a taxi from the hotel's concierge, which they gladly called for us. The concierge even wrote out the pier destination in Chinese for the taxi driver. Remember, most taxi drivers in China do not speak English. Less than 10 minutes and 12 Yuan (about $2.00) later, we arrived at the pier and were dropped off right next to Silver Shadow. In true Silversea fashion, a steward opened our taxi doors, grabbed our hand luggage and took our larger bags from the trunk. We were escorted to a table where Chinese Customs checked our passports and visas before we were issued our room keys and walked up the gangway to the ship. Once on board, the security officer collected our passports and informed us that they would provide us with a photocopy to use while in China later that day. When we finally walked into the interior of Silver Shadow on Deck 5, it felt like coming home. Stewardesses greeted us with a chilled glass of sparkling wine and escorted us to Reception where they took our photo for security purposes. We were informed that our suite was ready and within minutes of exiting the taxi, we were being introduced to our Grand Suite #802 located on Deck 8 forward.

We had not even had time to explore the suite when our luggage arrived and was placed in our bedroom. Soon after, our butler, Roland, arrived and gave us a walk through of all of the features in our Grand Suite. Silversea has embarkation down to an art. The entire process is as painless and efficient as it could possibly be.

ACCOMMODATIONS

With the exception of the two Owner's Suites, the Grand Suite is the largest guest accommodation offered on Silver Shadow (and sister ship, Silver Whisper). The Grand Suite can be configured as a one bedroom or two bedroom floorplan (by combining an adjoining Verandah Suite).

Silversea Silver ShadowWhen we first walked into our Grand Suite, we were awe-struck by the sheer openness of the space. The entry foyer leads into the living room with it's full-size sofa, two large and comfy chairs and coffee table. A dining room table large enough for four people to enjoy a meal together sits next to an impressive bar with three bar stools. The bar is equipped with a mini-bar/fridge and a Cappuccino/Coffee machine. A nice-sized desk spans one wall of the living room with more than enough space for a laptop and any electronic gadgets you may be traveling with. There is enough seating in the Grand Suite to host 13 people comfortably.

The 103-116 sq. ft. verandah is accessible via a sliding glass door and features one large wicker seat with footrest, two wicker chairs and two small tables. Due to its location under the wing bridge, the balcony is covered by a sizable overhang that blocks much of the direct sun from the balcony.

A door separates the living room from the forward-facing bedroom. The queen-sized bed is nothing short of luxurious with a brand new mattress that rivals any at sea. Guests can select from a menu of eight pillow choices to suit their personal requirements. A dressing table with 3-sided mirror will be every lady's dream come true. A magnifying makeup mirror is on the dressing table. The walk-in closet is huge with an 8-drawer dresser and personal safe. Two long rods with wooden hangers can hold enough clothes for a world cruise.

The closet is large enough to get dressed in. There is also a built-in storage unit across from the bed that occupies the entire wall. There are three large, and I mean LARGE drawers, six regular-size drawers and lots of storage cabinets behind doors. Two large windows look out over the front of the ship. There is a full-length mirror on the wall as you enter the bedroom and also one on the wall of the bathroom opposite the shower.

The completely separate bedroom allows Rickee to continue to sleep uninterrupted while I do my morning work. The large, flat-screen LCD TV in the living room allows me to watch my Fox News in the morning while working on my blog and enjoying my coffee ritual.

One of the two bathrooms is right off the bedroom and is equally lavish. Slathered in Italian marble, the bathroom features a full-sized bathtub, vanity with two sinks, separate marble shower stall and sequestered water closet with toilet, bidet and sink. The master bathroom is stocked with your choice of Bvlgari, Neutrogena or Ferragamo soap, shampoo, lotion and conditioner. Cotton balls and cotton swabs are provided, too. There is also a powder room off the entryway accessible from the living room. In total, our suite had four sinks, two toilets and one bidet!

Living room with sitting area; two-bedroom has additional sitting area

But, Grand Suite guests don't only benefit from space; there are other amenities as well. Each suite on Silversea enjoys butler service. Your butler is always available to make restaurant reservations, secure shore excursion tickets, provide evening en-suite dining, pick up and deliver laundry, and virtually anything else you may require during your stay. Large suite guests also enjoy complimentary laundry, dry cleaning and pressing from the ship's laundry. Complimentary bottles of liquor are provided to stock the bar as well as your choice of soft drinks, mixers and bottled water. Your choice of daily newspaper is also available for delivery to your suite.

It should be noted that Silver Shadow has recently undergone a multi-million-dollar refurbishment. All suites have been updated with new mattresses and bedding, new upholstery and carpeting. Large suites have been updated to include a high-end Bang & Olufsen CD player. Our Grand Suite looked as fresh as the day the ship was launched. The new mattress and pillows were the most comfortable we have found on any ship.

Even the smallest suites on Silversea are spacious and well appointed. But, for those who insist on nothing but the biggest and the best, regardless of cost, the Grand Suite offers over-the-top luxury and spaciousness. Needless to say, we have been spoiled! As an example, on more than one occasion, we found our leather shoes had been removed from the closet, cleaned and polished and wrapped in tissue paper and put back into the closet. And, upon our return from the overnight in Beijing, we found that our butler, Roland, had drawn a bubble bath for Rickee. Not that's being spoiled!

Halfway through the cruise we received a guest comment card in our suite. Other than praise for our butler and stateroom attendant, our only comment was how we missed a specific white wine we had enjoyed a year earlier while sailing on Silver Spirit. The first day of the cruise, we asked one of the wine stewards for the brand, but were told it was no longer available. However, within hours after submitting our comment card our butler, Roland, showed up at our suite with a bottle of our favorite wine in hand! He said the Head Sommelier read our comment and, after doing some digging in the wine storage, located a few bottles of our favorite white. We were informed that a bottle of our favorite wine would be available in all of the ship's bars and restaurants. Now THAT is the kind of excellent service you only get with a 6-star cruise line!

FOOD AND DINING

The Restaurant

The Restaurant located on Deck 4 is the ship's main "traditional" dining room. The Restaurant looks to have been completely re-decorated as part of the recent refurbishment with new carpeting, upholstery and trimmings. The atmosphere here is elegant and luxurious. Service is crisp and efficient, as it is throughout the ship. Breakfast is served here each morning from a set menu. Lunch and dinner menus change daily and offer a nice variety of choices. Breakfast and lunch in The Restaurant makes a nice, calm alternative to the sometimes busy La Terrazza buffet (lido buffet). A table for two is almost always available at breakfast or lunch. In the evening, The Restaurant comes alive with activity as the ship's primary dining venue. The menu choices show off the galley's culinary expertise with a variety of continental-style preparations. Dining in The Restaurant is open-seating, so you may dine whenever and with whomever you wish. The dress code follows the ship's daily recommended dress code for the day.

On our sailing, Executive Chef Jerome treated us to a gala Galley Dinner in lieu of the traditional Pool Deck BBQ. The weather simply would not allow for a BBQ. Instead, the main galley was converted into an elaborate buffet serving line with every imaginable culinary delight and beautiful ice sculptures for decoration.

La Terrazza

Buffet by day, elegant Italian bistro by night. La Terrazza is probably the most popular dining venue on Silver Shadow (or any Silversea ship for that matter). Sumptuous breakfast buffet service is complemented by made-to-order egg dishes, pancakes and waffles. Lunch buffet choices change daily and usually offer items from The Restaurant's menu in addition to a carving station, fresh sushi daily and a wide variety of salads and desserts. A large al fresco dining area is located aft of La Terrazza where you can enjoy the ocean breeze as you dine.

Slow Food is a concept that began at a grass roots level in reaction to “Fast Food” and is dedicated to proper land stewardship while preserving cultural food traditions. For example, La Terrazza uses buffalo mozzarella from Naples, organic balsamic vinegar and olive oil from Umbria, and air-dried ham out of Parma. The Emilia-Romagna region also produces Silversea's 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano, while the pasta is made daily right on board.

Each evening, La Terrazza is transformed into a romantic, dimly lit Italian bistro. The evening dress code here is listed as casual, but a jacket would be a wise choice if you want to fit in. Even though the main courses offered in the evening are excellent, we have a hard time making it past the pasta course before crying "uncle". The pasta is made fresh daily and is to die for. Make sure to try the Ravioli...amazing! Reservations are required for La Terrazza.

The Grill

Come nighttime aboard Silver Shadow, the pool bar and grill is transformed into The Grill featuring "hot rock" dining under the stars. This fun, interactive cooking concept allows guests to grill their own seafood and prime meats directly at their table on a heated volcanic rock plate. The seating here is limited, so you need to make reservations early in the cruise to enjoy this experience. Guests can choose from steak, veal chop or salmon which arrives sizzling on a hot, and I mean HOT volcanic rock plate. The rock plate retains the heat long enough to completely cook the meat to your desired level of doneness. So, in effect, you are cooking your own meal! Side items like baked potatoes, salads and vegetable skewers are pre-prepared so you do not have to cook those, just the meat. The concept is innovative and one that everyone should experience at least once per cruise. On our cruise, it was very cool outside in the evening so we were provided with heavy blankets to help keep us warm while we dined. There are some radiant heaters installed over some of the tables, but more are needed. The dress code at The Grill is always casual.

Le Champagne

Silversea Silver ShadowThe only Wine Restaurant by Relais & Châteaux at sea can be found aboard the ships of Silversea. Guests can indulge in an evening where fine wines are complemented by a set tasting menu of regionally inspired dishes in an intimate, elegant setting. The six-course experience celebrates some of the world’s most distinguished wine regions. Reservations are required and there is a per guest reservation fee.

Room Service

This often overlooked and underrated dining option is taken to a new level on Silversea. We routinely enjoy dining in our suite, especially after a long day of touring an exotic destination. The dining table in our Grand Suite was transformed into an elegantly-set romantic venue with Frette linens and fine silverware, just like you would find in The Restaurant. Our butler, Roland, carefully prepared the table then served our dinner (or lunch) choices expertly. The food was delivered quickly and was fresh and hot. Breakfast is the most popular room service meal, but we rarely eat breakfast, so we reserve the special treat for lunch or dinner.

A substantial 24-hour room service menu is complemented by the daily lunch and dinner choices served in The Restaurant (during normal lunch and dinner hours). The lunch and dinner menu for the following day is provided each evening in the Silversea Chronicles that is delivered to your suite. But here's a little secret about Silversea. If you want something, just ask for it and odds are Silversea will find a way to make it happen, as long as it is within reason. For example, one day we stayed in our suite to watch a movie and we asked for some popcorn. No problem!

Sundowners (at the pool)

I am going to take credit for this one. For years we have been asking Silversea to keep the Pool Bar open after 6pm. Why, you ask? Previously, there was nowhere on the ship where we could go enjoy a drink without having to get dressed up. So, let's say we were planning to have dinner in our stateroom or Dinner Under The Stars, both of which are casual. On a formal or semi-formal night, the ship's dress code after 6pm would prevent us from enjoying a drink in Panorama or The Bar before dinner. Now the Pool Bar is open until 7pm which is PERFECT! Kudos to Silversea. In addition, they have added what they refer to as "Sundowners" service which is basically a bowl of tortilla chips, guacamole and what Rickee considers to be the best salsa she has ever tasted! So, Silversea took my idea of keeping the Pool Bar open later and made it even better.

Pool Grill

One of my favorite spots for lunch is the Pool Grill. There is something about sitting outside on a beautiful day at sea and enjoying a simple burger, fries and onion rings. Silversea's Pool Grill is a noticeable step above other cruise lines with full table service and a pretty extensive menu of made-to-order burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, salads and other treats. A new ice cream sundae bar has been added to satisfy your sweet tooth. As with all Silversea dining venues, you dine here with Frette linen napkins and silverware. No plastic or paper in sight. Even a burger and fries feels elegant on Silversea!

Afternoon Tea

The British tradition of Afternoon Tea has been kept alive on Silversea with an elegant tea service held each day in The Panorama Lounge. A variety of teas are accompanied by traditional finger sandwiches, scones and other sweet treats served by white-gloved wait staff. Afternoon tea is a perfect way to stave off any hunger that might try to sneak in before dinner.

ENTERTAINMENT AND ACTIVITIES

Entertainment has been steadily improving on Silversea over the past several years. This Silver Shadow cruise was no exception. Each evening the Athenian Lounge showcases a movie or a different production show or guest entertainer at 10:00pm. The four production shows were performed by the Silver Shadow Singers and Dancers and backed up by the Silver Shadow Quartet. Evening shows typically last 30 to 45 minutes, and while we wish they started a little earlier in the evening, you can usually be back in your suite by 10:45pm if you are not a night owl. Music and dancing continues in the Panorama Lounge long after the show has ended for those who like to take a spin around the floor. The featured entertainer onboard was award-winning pianist, Van-Anh-Nguyen, from Australia.

Before and after-dinner musical entertainment was provided by Manny on the piano; the RL Duo; and the Silver Shadow Quartet. One evening, there was a late-night Disco complete with DJ taking place in The Bar.

“If you want something, just ask for it and odds are Silversea will find a way to make it happen...”

— CruiseReport

During the day, Silver Shadow offers guests a variety of onboard activities. Your day might begin with a 7am "Power Walk" with Personal Trainer Jovanka, or an 8am stretching session with one and the same. International hostesses conduct Italian and French lessons and there seems to always be a group of bridge players on board. The most popular daytime activity is Team Trivia held each afternoon which can get very competitive and lively followed by golf putting. There are table tennis and shuffleboard competitions and dance classes taught by a ballroom dance couple. Bingo was offered on several occasions. If you wanted to tour the galley or the navigational bridge, that was available, too.

The well-stocked library also has a huge selection of movies on DVD for guests to check-out and view in their suites. This is the place to pick up the daily Silver Quiz, sudoku and crossword puzzles. If a board game is in your daily plan, you will find a selection of them in the library.

Silversea has a reputation for providing excellent enrichment lectures. Destination Consultant, Ian Denton, conducted a series of lectures on the various ports we visited on this itinerary and Guest Celebrity, Li Cunxin, fascinated everyone with his life story as an acclaimed Chinese ballet dancer and the subject of the book and movie "Mao's Last Dancer." This voyage had an Art Curator, Michael Judge, who lectured on the Silversea art collection and conducted "art walks" around the ship. The H. Stern jewelry representatives on board gave several talks about gemstones and jewelry. Several fitness seminars were presented by fitness instructor, Jovanka. If you happen to miss a lecture, don't worry. The lectures are replayed on TV at regular intervals.

Speaking of fitness, there is a well-equipped fitness center on Deck 10 open daily from 6:30am until 8:00pm. Several classes were offered each day and you could even hire a personal trainer.

For those who like games of chance, the Casino accepts donations whenever the ship is sailing. There are lots of slot machines, poker machines, blackjack tables, roulette and craps. We had some fun with the slots and, fortunately, we broke even for the 10- day cruise! The Casino Staff conducted gaming lessons from time to time and there were Blackjack and slot tournaments.

A small, but well-equipped Internet Cafe is located next to The Library with a few desktop computers available for use. Internet rates are some of the most reasonable in the industry with pay-as-you-go or prepaid package plans. Purchase 1000 minutes and your per minute rate drops to only $0.25 per minute. Internet connectivity is available through the ship's WiFi network from virtually any location. I got the best connectivity in the public areas. WiFi was accessible in our suite, but not as reliable. If I was willing to leave our suite door open, the WiFi signal improved dramatically.

The Boutiques of Silversea, found on Deck 5, offer an extensive range of merchandise including designer clothing, perfumes and skincare products. Silversea logo items are available and there is an H.Stern jewelry boutique, too. Toiletries and other essential items are available for purchase upon request

Guest Chef Kurt Grasing entertained everyone with a special Korean BBQ short rib demonstration one afternoon as did Executive Chef Jerome who treated us to a special creme brulee demo. There was also a "competition" involving two of the Silver Shadow chefs (one French and one Italian) and a "mystery basket" of ingredients. It was fun to see what dishes they could create given the surprise ingredients and only twenty minutes to complete the dishes.

The Spa at Silversea is a full-service facility offering massages and salon services and also teeth whitening. On our voyage, several specials were offered discounting the cost of certain spa services. Rickee made use of the hair salon services and was quite pleased with the results. She says it cost about the same as what she pays at home (and I always think she pays way too much for what she gets!)

BEIJING OVERLAND TOUR

Silversea Silver ShadowSilversea treated guests on this sailing to a complimentary overnight land tour in Beijing that included an overnight stay at the beautiful Peninsula Hotel. Upon our arrival in Tianjin, China, (the port city for Beijng) we boarded motor coaches for a two-hour drive to Beijing on really good roads in an insane amount of traffic with our first stop being a roadside service station for a bathroom break. The toilets at this rest stop were Eastern style consisting of a porcelain fixture in a hole in the floor. I had been warned to carry tissue with me just in case, but this was not an issue at this particular stop. Next we stopped for lunch at a local restaurant. The Chinese food, which was tailored to Western tastes, was served on large lazy Susan in the center of the table for ten. The waitress kept bringing platters filled with chicken, pork, beef, rice, vegetables and soup. Nobody left hungry and the food was delicious. After lunch, we were bused to The Forbidden City where we enjoyed a guided tour of this amazing and historic structure. Afterward, we made a brief stop at Tiananmen Square with just enough time for photos. By 5pm we were exiting the bus at the Peninsula Hotel where we were also invited to enjoy a complimentary dinner at one of two restaurants: a Western-style buffet or a Chinese restaurant. Even though we had already enjoyed a huge Chinese meal for lunch, we felt that we had to try Huang Ting, the Chinese restaurant located in The Peninsula. We were treated to an eight-course menu that was spectacular. Truly, this was some of the best Chinese food we have ever enjoyed. And, the service and atmosphere were excellent as well.

Day two of the overnight tour had us boarding our bus at 8am after enjoying a lavish breakfast buffet at The Peninsula. Our first stop was at the Olympic Park were we were able to take photos at the famous Bird's Nest and Water Cube. The wind was so strong we could hardly stand up without being blown over and the temperatures were in the 40s. Another hour on the bus in yet more insane traffic and we pulled up to the Badaling section of The Great Wall. The high winds prevented the cable car from operating, so visitors to the Wall were forced to walk up the steps. We had visited the Badaling section back in 2005, so everything looked pretty familiar. There are lots of souvenir shops in this area and we were able to get some shopping done.

After spending about two hours at the Great Wall, we were taken to a nearby jade factory for lunch. The food here was not quite up to the standards of the first day's restaurant, but good nonetheless. I suspect this is a government-run operation designed to feed Western tourists in hopes of getting them to purchase jade jewelry in the massive shop located on the first floor of the building. After lunch, and jade shopping, we made our way back to the buses for the 2.5 hour ride back to Tianjin where we re-boarded Silver Shadow.

Silver Shadow Crew greet guests returning from Beijing Overnight Tour

The overland Beijing tour was extremely well planned and executed. Our guide spoke excellent English and the sights were ones that are not to be missed when sailing to Tianjin. The traffic in Beijing is insane but the bus driver had it all under control! It is a credit to Silversea that they were able to rearrange the transportation, hotel, meals and sightseeing to a day later since our arrival in Beijing was delayed by a day. Everything went off without a hitch.

PORTS-OF-CALL

Shanghai - Since the ship was scheduled to overnight in Shanghai, we were able to take an excursion to have dinner and see the world-famous Chinese acrobats. The ride to the JW Mandarin Hotel where the buffet dinner was held seemed even longer due to the intense traffic in Shanghai. At the buffet, we had a choice of both Eastern and Western food and a beverage. After dinner, we got back on the bus and headed to the venue where the Chinese acrobats were performing. Our seats were on the second row and were fantastic! The show was great and the acrobats did some unbelievable things sometimes bending in such ways it appeared like they didn't have a spine! The finale of the show was seven men riding motorcycles in a small mesh sphere all at the same time. Incredible! The Shanghai troupe of acrobats are rightly considered China's finest at this ancient craft. We highly recommend that you see the Chinese acrobats if you ever get the opportunity.

Rickee says goodbye to Shanghai as Silver Shadow sails away

We sailed out of Shanghai at 11am on the second day so we were able to take in the scenery on both sides of the Huangpu River. The skyscrapers on the Pudong side are incredible! The Huangpu River flows through Shanghai and empties into the Yangtze River past endless wharves, factories and tankers at anchor. The number of barges we passed loaded with all sorts of materials heading into Shanghai was astounding. The river traffic rivaled the vehicle traffic on the streets of Shanghai! This shouldn't be surprising since Shanghai is China's largest port and nearly half of China's trade with the outside world travels these waters. Apparently, there is a one-way channel that takes you from the Huangpu to the East China Sea and ships are scheduled to transit the channel at a certain time. We had quite a lengthy wait for our scheduled time and before our appointed time arrived, a heavy fog rolled in which delayed our passage even longer. We were delayed so long that we had to miss a scheduled port in order not to miss our time in Beijing. As it turned out, we skipped Dalian and arrived in Beijing a day late and had a extra day at sea. The fog stayed with us for several days during this voyage and temperatures were on the cool side with occasional drizzle.

Tianjin - This is the port for visiting Beijing which is about a 2.5 hour drive. Tianjin has a new, very modern terminal that is huge and EMPTY! Silversea provided a complimentary overnight excursion to Beijing (see description above ), but if you chose not to go, a shuttle service was provided from the pier to a mall in Tianjin. When we boarded Silver Shadow in Shanghai, we were given a photocopy of our passport which we had to carry with us at all times when we went ashore in China. The Chinese authorities would always check this photocopy whenever we would leave or board the ship. When we returned from Beijing, we surrendered the photocopy to the Chinese authorities at the pier since we were leaving China and would no longer need it.

Jeju - Jeju was our first stop in South Korea and is the capital city of the island of Jejudo, a popular vacation spot known for its majestic waterfalls and sandy beaches. It is interesting that, despite its proximity to Korea, Jujudo's people developed their own culture and language distinct from the mainland. We arrived about an hour later than originally scheduled because we had to make an unscheduled stop the day before so a passenger who had a heart attack could be transported to a hospital on shore.

We signed up for the Jeju City Highlights excursion and boarded the bus around 9:30am. The Korean buses were really decorated on the inside with embroidered curtains complete with ball fringe! The steering wheel of the bus and the gear shift lever were also decked out and sparkled. First stop was the Dragon Pond where legend has it that a dragon and a nymph played. Next stop was the Natural History Museum where we saw exhibits about how the Jejudo people lived in the past. Our last stop was a souvenir shop where we picked up a magnet and were able to pay for it using some of the Chinese money we had left. So many Chinese visit Jeju that the local vendors take Chinese money. Jeju is known for its lava stone and is home to Jejudo Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes, a Natural World Heritage site. For those who chose not to take an excursion, a shuttle bus was provided from the pier to a duty free shop.

Busan - Busan (formerly Pusan) is South Korea's second largest city and its principal port. Lovely beaches, scenic cliffs, mountain panoramas and hot springs are all found within the city. We opted to take the complimentary shuttle from the pier into the city to explore on our own. The ride took about 20 minutes and the shuttle first went to a beautiful park with the final stop being the Phoenix Hotel. From here, we took the short walk to the International Market which is made up of small alleyways divided into different districts, each dealing with a distinct variety of goods. Even though we had been told that the shopkeepers would only take local money, we were able to use both American and Chinese money to make purchases. This market stretches out over many, many blocks and you could easily spend an entire day there checking out the goods. The food vendors were especially interesting.

A local mobile bank had come to the pier and we changed some American money into Korean money before we boarded the shuttle. When we returned, we were able to change the money back into American money (for a small fee, of course.) There were also some shopping opportunities on the pier where locals had set up some tables selling Korean souvenirs.

Incheon - Our voyage ended in Incheon, South Korea, the port for Seoul. The ship has to go through a lock to reach Incheon as there is a tidal variation of 33-feet. We had a great view of the whole lock procedure from our suite at the very front of the ship! Everyone was supposed to be out of their suites by 8:00am and waiting in a public area for the ship to be cleared by local authorities. Since our flight did not depart until 5:50pm, we opted to take a tour of the city that ended at the airport around 1pm.

Since we had arranged with Luggage Forward to ship our luggage home to Texas for us, we didn't have to worry about setting our luggage out on the last night of the cruise. Instead, on the morning of disembarkation, our butler took our luggage to Reception where the Luggage Forward representative would pick up the bags. How simple is that?! We left a copy of our passport with Reception and verified that they had the correct address and that was it. While others were wrestling with their large luggage through South Korean security and to and from the bus, we simply walked away. Nice! Our luggage was delivered to our home three days after we returned.

THE SILVERSEA EXPERIENCE

In a world of self-serve gas stations, and a 'do-it-yourself' mentality, it is nice that one company insists on delivering an alternative. In fact, modern society has changed us so much that one can almost become consumed with guilt when this level of pampering is experienced. A Silversea cruise is what a vacation is supposed to be: worry-free, relaxing, luxurious and fun. We have sailed on all but one Silversea ship over the past several years and the story never changes. It is always excellent service delivered in an unobtrusive manner. Silversea embodies the nature of good taste, quality and service. There are a lot of good cruise lines, a handful of great cruise lines. Silversea is unquestionably one of the few great cruise lines in the world. But more than that, Silversea is one of the few places left on Earth where everyone is made to feel special, welcome and valued.

What We Loved

Friendly staff, impeccable service
Gratuities included in cruise fare
All beer, wine, champagne, cocktails and bottled water included in cruise fare
Best mattresses and pillows at sea
Good TV programming w/movie selection
Big, roomy suites, most with balconies
Excellent room service for en suite dining
Quality shore excursions with ship's tour guide present
Pool bar now open until 7pm

What We Would Like To See

6:30pm dinner times (instead of 7pm)
9:30 show time (instead of 10pm)
A casual, no-reservation-required dining option

VIDEO

GALLERY

Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 3/8/10 Chris Dikmen & Rickee Richardson 3/8/10

14 Night South America on Silver Spirit

We spend 14 nights aboard Silversea Silver Spirit sailing from Santiago, Chile to Acapulco, Mexico.

Itinerary: Valparaiso, Antofagasta, Pisco, Lima, Manta, Puntarenas, Puerto Quetzal, Acapulco

When we first heard that Silversea was launching a new, larger ship, we had mixed emotions. While we were excited about one of our favorite cruise lines introducing a new flagship into her fleet, we were concerned that it would be difficult to deliver Silversea's trademark service to 540 guests. That's 150 more than Silversea's next largest ship. Fortunately, our concerns were unfounded. Silversea has somehow managed to deliver on its long-standing tradition of excellent, personal service on a much grander scale.

Our assignment was to sail aboard the new Silver Spirit for 14 nights from Valparaiso, Chile, to Acapulco, Mexico. Admittedly, this was not an itinerary at the top of our wish list. But this is Silversea, and this is a brand new ship, so whenever we are given these opportunities, we take them! As it turns out, the itinerary was much more enjoyable than we could have ever imagined. In fact, I would not mind doing it again.

THE SHIP

Silver Spirit is the largest ship in the Silversea fleet with guest capacity of 540 and a crew of 376 representing 25 different nations. This new ship underscores the changes that are occurring in the small ship segment. Small ships are getting bigger. Silver Spirit joins Seabourn's Odyssey-class and Regent's Seven Seas Navigator as the new standard for small ship luxury cruising. Increasing a ship's guest capacity and overall size is a risky proposition for a luxury cruise line that caters to upscale clientele, many of whom were attracted by smaller ships, fewer people and more attentive service. Therefore, Silver Spirit marks a paradigm in the small ship market.

Silver Spirit's designers retained much of the Silversea DNA familiar to the cruise line's loyal following. The exterior looks like a bigger version of Silver Whisper/Shadow. Even though it has been re-located amidships, The Bar is still on Deck 5. The Panorama Bar is on Deck 9 aft, and the Observation Lounge is on Deck 11 forward. The Silversea faithful should feel right at home aboard Silver Spirit. Perhaps the most notable feature of this new ship is in the ride quality. In 14 days of cruising the Pacific, we were amazed at how rock-solid the ship was, even when buffeted by 50 knot crosswinds and 10-foot swells.

The interior of the ship has an understated Art Deco theme throughout. This is evident in the glass dividers in The Bar, elevator fascia and even in carpet design patterns. There is more emphasis on art throughout the ship than on other Silversea ships, which now appear almost bland in comparison. This makes Silver Spirit the most visually stimulating ship in the fleet without being ostentatious or garish.

We believe that it is our job to seek out and report on any problems or shortcomings we encounter during an editorial assignment. However, finding problems on Silver Spirit requires us to stoop to the level of nit-picking. Overall, this is a great ship and one of the few that we would feel comfortable on for an extended period of time, like say a World Cruise.

EMBARKATION/DISEMBARKATION

Getting on and off Silver Spirit is a smooth and painless operation. When we arrived at the port in Valparaiso, Chile, we were first dropped off by the shuttle (from our pre-cruise hotel) at a terminal building where Silversea personnel greeted us, issued our suite keys, took our passports. We then boarded a smaller bus that took us to the ship. Once on board, we stopped by the reception desk where they quickly snapped our photo (for security) and a white-gloved stewardess took our hand-luggage and led us to our suite. When we arrived at our suite, our checked luggage was already waiting for us, as was our room stewardess, Leabeth, and our butler, Heri (pronounced "Harry"). After a quick tour of the suite and an explanation of all the features thereof, Heri went off to fetch my requested bottle of liquor and Leabeth scurried to find Rickee more hangers.

Disembarkation was no less efficient. We had our large bags outside our suite by 11pm the night before we left the ship. We were asked to vacate the suite by 8:30am, which we did. We cleared Mexican Immigration in the theater on Deck 5 and then had plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely breakfast at La Terrazza before catching our 9:45am ride to our post-cruise hotel.

MIDSHIP VERANDA SUITE

Our Midship Veranda Suite (522) was located just forward from The Bar on Deck 5. This made it very convenient for me each morning to get to my Early-Riser coffee. The suite itself is 376 square feet and feels narrower than Midship Verandas on other Silversea ships. Even though the decor of the suites follows in the tradition of Silversea with dark wood treatments, curtain divider separating the living room, a walk-in closet, comfortable bedding, and a large bathroom with separate tub and shower (ala Silver Whisper/Shadow), that is where the similarities end.

The first thing to jump out at you when you walk into a Midship Veranda suite on Silver Spirit is the television image peering through the mirror in the bedroom. Another flat screen television is similarly hidden behind the mirror over the desk/entertainment center in the living room. This gives the room a much cleaner, more modern appearance, and is just plain cool. We wonder why the concept was not integrated into the Silver Suites and Grand Suites as well. There are two different remote controls, even though a single remote will operate either television. An iPod dock/alarm clock is located on the desk in the living room. By having the iPod system in the living room, we were afraid to use our iPod while sleeping for fear it might disturb our neighbors. We would rather have seen the iPod/clock on one of the nightstands. This would have required the inclusion of a power outlet next to the bed. The digital clock light was so bright that, even though it was located in the living room, we had to put a piece of paper over it at night to keep it from lighting up the entire suite!

If memory serves correctly, the walk-in closet is not as large as the ones on other Silversea ships. Nevertheless, there is plenty of storage space. What is missing is the little clip rack for holding ties and other small garments. In fact, there is a general lack of hooks throughout the suite, a problem that can easily be remedied. The bathroom is a nice size and has a odd-shaped, but very functional, shower stall with handheld wand and rainshower head, too. The vanity offers a lot of storage underneath coupled with two slim, but roomy vertical storage areas with four shelves on each side of the huge vessel sink. The sink places form over function. While it is visually striking, it is not well designed. It is virtually impossible to use the sink without getting water splashed everywhere. Much of the problem could be solved by replacing the faucet with one that extends further into the bowl and away from the edge of the sink. However, there is more surface room on the vanity than we had with a similar sink on Silver Wind. Also missing is the little retractable clothes line for hanging wet bathing suits to dry.

Notwithstanding the "nits", the Midship Veranda is a very comfortable and roomy suite. The ability to separate the living room from the bedroom via the light-blocking curtain is great for those who like to stay up late and read or watch TV while the other occupant sleeps. The balcony features comfortable wicker furnishings on a teak deck. And the bed is as comfortable as you will find on any cruise ship in the world.

FOOD AND DINING

Dining is an important part of any cruise and Silversea takes dining very seriously. Silver Spirit offers more dining choices than many ships twice her size. The food quality, preparation and presentation seems to be on par with other Silversea ships.

The Restaurant

The Restaurant is located aft on Deck 4 and is the largest dining venue on Silver Spirit. The decor of The Restaurant is very classy and imparts an air of formality. Even though it is open each day for breakfast and lunch, we found very few guests dining here at those times. Most prefer to dine in La Terrazza with its extensive buffet selections. On all but one day we, too, opted for either the Pool Grill or La Terrazza for lunch. With perfect weather, it is difficult to ignore the al fresco dining!

The Restaurant is most popular in the evenings and even more so on formal nights. The menu choices appear to be pared down somewhat from years past, but there is still a nice selection of appetizers, salads, main courses and desserts each evening. The food and service in The Restaurant is very good and will be familiar to anyone who has sailed on other Silversea ships. However, menu items tend to be geared more toward European tastes. Items such as Pigeon 'Souvaroff', a breast of Pigeon slow-cooked with Foie Gras and Truffle Shavings, is not something you find in most American restaurants. The dishes are so sophisticated and complex that they become intimidating to all but the most sophisticated palates. We think the popularity of new venues such as Hot Rock are an indication that, even on Silversea, today's cruise enthusiast longs for simpler food that places more emphasis on flavor than flair. Nevertheless, The Restaurant continues to provide guests with a traditional cruise dining room, attentive service, and well-prepared dishes.

This is Silversea's multi-tasking restaurant. Buffet by day, romantic Italian bistro by night. Each morning, La Terrazza puts out a tempting breakfast buffet that includes everything you could ever want. There are always scrambled eggs, bacon (American, English and Canadian), ham, sausage, baked beans, a variety of breads, fresh fruit, yogurt, grains and cereals, etc. If desired, the kitchen can prepare egg dishes to order, including Eggs Benedict and omelets.

At lunchtime, you will find guests making their way to Deck 7 once again for the excellent lunch buffet at La Terrazza. I personally think Silver Spirit has improved the lunch offerings here to such a degree that other Silversea ships will have to make modifications to keep up. This is one area where "bigger is better." In addition to an impressive platter of fresh Sushi and Sashimi, there is a variety of salads, breads, meat dishes, vegetables and a carving station with a different roasted meat featured each day.

La Terrazza's outdoor seating has been dramatically expanded on Silver Spirit. The doors to the outdoor section have been moved from the rear of the dining room to the sides to reduce the wind that can rush in on diners when people move in and out of the dining room. For some reason, outdoor dining was not offered in the evenings in La Terrazza during our cruise, which was a shame since we had such perfect weather.

Each evening, La Terrazza is transformed into a dimly lit, romantic Italian bistro with a multi-course menu that changes periodically during the cruise. One of the new creations is an Antipasti sampler that delivers nine, yes NINE, different Antipasti creations to try. Each item is basically a single bite, so it is manageable, but filling nevertheless. On our first visit to La Terrazza, we had to cancel our main course order after the Antipasti and the Pasta course. We were too full to continue!

La Terrazza continues to be one of our favorite spots on the ship to dine. The dress code here is always informal, even on formal nights. And, even though reservations are recommended, you can often walk in and get a table. The atmosphere is excellent, the food is good and the service is, well...Silversea!

The Pool Grill

The Pool Grill (Deck 9) on Silver Spirit serves many different duties. Each morning, early-risers can get coffee and pastries there as well as a selection of breakfast fruit smoothies. The smoothies were quite good, by the way. At 11 am each morning, the Pool Grill opens for lunch offering a selection of hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, salads and other offerings. My cheeseburger was good, although the meat had been pre-seared and simply re-heated/finished on the grill before being served. I ordered onion rings instead of french fries and they were cold and very tough. This happened on two occasions, so I gave up on the onion rings. Rickee's pannini, on the other hand, was made fresh and was delicious. The most notable item was the bruschetta. Large slices of crunchy bread topped with garlicky tomatoes sprinkled with basil were a highlight.

Unlike other Silversea ships in the past, the self-serve buffet line with salads and sandwiches at the Pool Grill are gone. Everything is ordered from the menu and delivered to your table. In the evenings, the Pool Grill becomes the support kitchen for Hot Rock.

Stars is an interesting concept, to say the least. The venue, located on Deck 7 just forward of La Terazza, can accommodate up to 26 guests. Stars is described in the daily Silversea Chronicles as ‘foodatainment’ (whatever that is), and “Funky Food with Jazzy music”. The Chronicles “ad” further describes the offerings as “funky snacks and jazzy music”. I am not sure what “funky” means when referring to food, but when it is used twice in the same descriptive ad, it scares anyone from Texas.

We made reservations for 8:15 one evening, which is when Stars opens for business. Coincidentally, we decided to dine on the same evening as the Venetian Society party, so many guests were eating in The Restaurant at tables hosted by the ship’s staff members. As a result, we were the only two people dining in Stars that evening.

The décor of Stars is non-descript. The brown walls with gold horizontal bars could easily pass for a ship’s library or card room. The “theme" continues to the brown furnishings and tablecloths. As the only diners of the evening, ours was the only table that was set up. The table setup was quite unique with two types of coarse salt, one for seafood and one for meats. In the same rack as the salts are three narrow vials containing Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Rosemary infused Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar. A small plate with chunks of Parmagiano Reggiano cheese is accompanied by five small cups of various dips and olives. There is also a small plate of tostada chips for dipping and a glass containing several strands of pastry-like bread sticks. These treats give diners plenty to munch on before the menu items begin to arrive. All were good. The choice of tostada chips is an interesting one as it make me think "Mexican", while the dips and olives make me think "Mediterranean".

I found the Stars menu to be confusing. A different letter of the name “S-T-A-R-S” is used to define each course, meaning that there are five courses. Always trying to find the hidden meaning, I assumed the “S” stood for “Starters”. I then began to struggle with what the “T” could stand for…Tapas perhaps? And what about the “A”, did that stand for Appetizer? If so, why would appetizers be the third course? By the time I got to the “R”, my head was about to explode. I finally gave up and asked the waiter and was told that “S-T-A-R-S” is not an acronym for anything. So, my time was wasted trying to figure that one out.

When our waiter arrived at the table with the menu we were told that they recommend we try every course, so that is what we did. We were also offered a red or white wine from the daily complimentary selection. Each of the five courses served in Stars is a trio of “tapas-style” dishes. In fact, we found each portion to be more than a single “bite” of food, often having to employ the services of our knife to cut portions in half before enjoying. With four different courses, and three dishes to each course, we found ourselves to be quite full before the dessert course was delivered. However, for those with larger appetites, Stars also offers a choice of pasta dishes.

Now, lets talk about food execution. This is where Stars shines, no pun intended. The dishes coming out of the Stars' kitchen are very good. A lot of attention is given to presentation, which would rival any nouvelle cuisine restaurant on land. The waiting time between courses was reasonable and each course was delicious. The service in Stars was up to Silversea standards as well, warm and pleasant without being overly attentive.

The “jazzy music” part of the “foodatainment” starts each evening at 10:00pm. We finished our meal at about 9:45, so we were a little tired before the show began and did not stay for the show. We did hear from several other guests, however, that the show in Stars is very good. For those who like to eat late, say around 9:00 to 9:30pm, the timing of the show is perfect. During the first hour or so of our meal, we did enjoy Lucas playing the piano.

Stars delivers a unique dining experience that every Silver Spirit guest should enjoy. The food taste and presentation is excellent; the service attentive and there is even an opportunity to enjoy a great jazz show to boot. Stars suffers from less than ideal marketing and an identity crisis. It is advertised as “funky snacks,” which sounds like something you would enjoy after having eaten a full meal in one of Silver Spirit’s other venues. The number of courses and portion sizes can in no way be described as a “snack”. This is an elaborate and well-executed meal.

Hot Rock

Hot Rock is a completely new concept that has definitely found a following. To be quite frank, Hot Rock is just a unique way of serving grilled meats from the Pool Grill. Its kind of like an outdoor steakhouse, but with a twist. Hot Rock is located on Deck 10, just above the Pool Grill. Tables are set each evening and the restaurant opens at 7:30pm. You had better make reservations, because this place is full just about every night. Diners are greeted and seated before being presented with the Hot Rock menu (See sidebar).

The menu at Hot Rock is simple, as you can see. Basically there are three courses: salads, meat and dessert. Now THIS is a menu even a Texan can understand! We dined at Hot Rock... no, wait a minute, "dine" is too formal of a description...we ate at Hot Rock on two different evenings. On both occasions, we shared a table with our friends, Linda Garrison* and her mother, Marvel. Between the four of us, we had an opportunity to try a variety of offerings. I heard no complaints from those who ordered the New York Salad and my Caesar Salad was substantial and quite good. Methinks Silversea has replaced their previously bland Caesar Salad Dressing of old with a new, tangier, garlickier and more flavorful one.

What makes Hot Rock unique, and fun, is the way in which the meat dishes are served. Each diner is adorned with their own "bib" which is attached using small clips and chain that fits around your neck. Next, your main course is placed in front of you on a hot (and I mean HOT) sizzling piece of stone. The meat is only seared to 'rare" before being placed on the stone, so it is up to you to cook the meat to your desired level of doneness. When you have cooked your meat to a satisfactory state, you can move it to the small adjoining plate for the consumption phase (aka 'eating'). This interactive meal experience is unique to Silversea and one that we would like to see extended to all ships in the fleet.

Seishin

Seishin is Silver Spirit’s Asian restaurant. Unlike Stars, when you step into Seishin, you know exactly where you are and what to expect. Seishin feels like an Asian restaurant. The dark woods and backlit panels evoke the spirit of Japan, as does the open presentation sushi kitchen in the center of the restaurant. Seishin is a concept that works, and it works very well. However, there is a degree of confusion over the menu. Unlike Stars, there is a fee associated with dining in Seishin. The fee depends on which menu you choose and any accompanying wine or sake. The prices are not posted anywhere other than periodically in the Silversea Chronicles, but after asking a lot of questions, we were able to come up with the following:

Since Rickee does not care for sushi or Asian food in general, my dining partner for Seishin was Linda Garrison, Cruise Guide for the About.com website (cruises.about.com). We each decided to try the Teaser Menu #2.

Our experience started with an amuse bouche of caviar sorbet, which was a small greenish-gray dollop with the consistency of a pâté. Neither Linda nor I care for caviar, so it was not really suited to our tastes.

Each menu begins with the Silversea Sashimi Platter, which Linda and I soon learned can be “customized” to taste with a combination of sushi and sashimi items. We each requested no shellfish items and the addition of a spicy tuna roll. No problem. As the sous chef began to prepare our platters, we had time to take a few photos of him in action. All items are prepared fresh, right in front of you!

Within minutes our Sashimi/Sushi platters arrived and were packed with a variety of delicious and expertly prepared items. The traditional wasabi, fresh ginger and soy sauce were instantly being applied to various bits of fresh tuna, salmon, mackerel, tuna rolls, eel, sweet tofu, and more. We were offered a glass of Argentinean sparkling wine, which was a perfect complement to the raw seafood offerings.

The second course, a teriyaki-flavored chicken thigh, was as beautiful as it was delicious. For this course, Linda and I were offered a complimentary Riesling. The final course of Wagyu beef was the highlight of an already excellent meal. Three thin slices of fork-tender Wagyu beef could not have been more flavorful or delicious. The meal ended with a dessert of Green Tea Sorbet that I almost skipped, since I just don’t eat dessert as a rule. However, I decided to take a small taste, and soon I was scooping it up as fast as I could. The blend of savory flavors with a little sweetness was sublime.

Notwithstanding the slight confusion over menu pricing, Seishin is one of the best alternate dining venues I have experienced on any ship to date. The meal was a bargain at $30. When you combine a great concept with an innovative menu and excellent service and execution, what you end up with is a winner. Seishin is a winner and a “must” for anyone sailing on Silver Spirit.

Le Champagne

Silversea Silver SpiritLe Champagne is Silversea's Wine Restaurant by Relais & Chateaux, the only such restaurant at sea. The extraordinary six-course experience celebrates the world’s most distinguished wine regions. Le Champagne delivers an intimate ambiance perfectly suited for private dinner parties. On Silver Spirit, Le Champage is an elegant, wine-themed dining room with a floor-to-ceiling wine rack display as its centerpiece. While we did not have the opportunity to enjoy Le Champagne on Silver Spirit, we did indulge ourselves last year on my birthday while aboard Silver Wind. Our wine pairing menu was exceptional and was a meal we will not soon forget.

When dining in Le Champagne, a cover charge of USD$30 per guest is charged for Gourmet Dining. Wine selections from the Connoisseur’s List range from USD$50 upwards, and will be charged to your account. Silversea’s complimentary selection of wines is not offered in the Wine Restaurant. For the Dégustation Dining option, a USD$200 per guest fee includes the USD$50 cover charge, a set selection of five premium wines served by the glass and a select after-dinner drink. Pricing is subject to change at any time without notice.

Room Service

Silversea offers 24-hour room service to all guests. We love room service. There are some evenings when we just don't feel like getting all dressed up and going out to eat. On many cruise ships, evening room service is pretty limited. However, on Silversea, the room service menu is extensive. And, during Restaurant hours, you can have any of the evening menu items delivered to your room! You can even have course-by-course service in your suite if you wish. Since Silversea includes a complete copy of the evening Restaurant menu in the Silversea Chronicles, it makes ordering as easy as picking up the phone, which we did on more than one occasion.

Like every dining experience on Silversea, even room service is taken to a higher level. When the butler arrives with the tray of food, a folding tabletop is placed on top of the oval coffee table, converting it into a large dining table. A linen tablecloth is spread out and elegant silverware and crisp linen napkins are added. When completely set up, it is like dining in The Restaurant, but in your pajamas!

SERVICE & STAFF

Fernando in full St. Patrick's Day regalia entertains guests

Silversea has racked up so many awards and accolades over the years from travel guides, magazines and websites (including CruiseReport.com), that to even try to evaluate their service is an exercise in futility. Even on a much larger ship, Silversea has again managed to deliver the kind of service and personal attention that their loyal guests have come to expect, and that we have come to admire.

On this cruise, we finally had the opportunity to sail with Fernando De Oliveira, the legendary Silversea Cruise Director. We have been hearing stories about Fernando for years and we finally got the opportunity to experience him firsthand. Every Silversea Cruise Director has been excellent, and Fernando is no exception. We were especially impressed with how he seemed to know everyone's name by the second day of the cruise! No small task on a ship with 300+ guests. In fact, we had more staff call us by name on this cruise than any we can remember in recent history. And, just in case you think it is because we are world-famous travel journalists (sure), think again. We verified with several guests that they, too, were all being called by name.

Service on Silversea means starting every morning with Joey in The Bar for early-riser's coffee. Joey would assist me with my coffee-making duties. On this cruise, I decided to bring my own coffee and a small French press that I found at Target. It worked great! Joey would go out of his way to rinse it out for me after I had finished my first two cups so that I could make another round. Each afternoon I would return to The Bar with my laptop to check my email (better Wi-Fi signal there) and Rex, the afternoon bartender would greet me by name and have my Coke Light waiting for me. When Rickee was not feeling well the first couple of days of the cruise, the ship's nurse would call every few hours to check on her. This is the kind of service that Silversea is known for, and to which Silversea guests become accustomed.

With an expanded cruise staff, Fernando provided us with quite an array of onboard activities, especially during days when the ship was at sea. Guest lecturer, Hugh Thomson, enlightened guests with in-depth information about Peru and Machu-Picchu while Destination Consultant, John-Tabbutt-McCarthy offered interesting details of upcoming ports-of-call. We were fortunate to enjoy a Pisco Cocktail lecture presented by specialist Guillermo Ferreyros and learned all about this national drink of Peru complete with samples. Delicious!

Linda Garrison and Rickee enjoy a complimentary wine tasting

This was the first Silversea cruise where we have experienced Bingo. Each day we would migrate to the Theater where Alessandra, the ship's International Hostess, would bestow massive amounts of Silversea Points on Bingo enthusiasts. For those of you who are not familiar with Silversea Points, well let me enlighten you. Guests can accumulate Silversea Points throughout the cruise for participating in a variety of onboard activities, such as Bingo, Team Trivia, golf putting, etc. At the end of each cruise, these points can be redeemed for Silversea logo items. It is a very interesting study in human psychology when you see a group of multimillionaires energized over accumulating little green pieces of paper that will eventually bring home something as mundane as a bookmark or a key ring. Nevertheless, it becomes addictive, and we soon found that Alessandra's Bingo was the shortest route to Silversea Point wealth.

Team Trivia faithful meet every day in Panorama Lounge on Deck 9

In addition to Bingo, lectures, the always popular and hotly contested Team Trivia, Silver Spirit also offered wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, Spanish, Portuguese, French and Italian language classes (all taught by the amazing Fernando), Bridge classes and dance classes. There was water volleyball featuring guests against the crew, table tennis against the cruise staff, daily shuffleboard competition and even a boat-building and dressmaking competition! There were daily fitness seminars and spa seminars. I am sure I have left out many other activities but there was always something for guests to do.

The production shows are alive and well on Silver Spirit. On our 14-night voyage, the Silver Spirit Singers and Dancers performed in five different shows, one of which took place at the deck barbecue poolside under the stars. Other featured entertainers included international singing sensation, Helen Jayne; Swarovski Crystal electric violinist Craig Halliday; piano entertainer Mark Farris and international singer Michel Bell. On nights when there was no live entertainment scheduled, movies were shown on the big screen. One night showcased the ever-popular Liars' Club, we had a game of Name That Tune and we even had a karaoke night!

Stars had Lucas on the piano before the jazz entertainers performed and guests could dance to the music of Amedeo in Panorama Lounge or Mark Farris in The Bar. The Silver Spirit Quintet (which was sometimes a trio or a quartet) performed in The Bar after dinner.

Internet Cafe

The Internet Cafe is located on Deck 7 in the library. There are only seven computers, which seems small for a ship designed to carry up to 540 guests. However, there is Wi-Fi wireless capability throughout the ship. I was only able to get a signal in our suite a couple of times and found myself relying on a location in The Bar to reliably connect to the Internet. I spoke with one guest who recommended cracking the door of the suite open to get a better signal, and it did seem to help. I suppose it depends on where your suite is located in relation to the Wi-Fi transmitters. The Internet connection was fairly reliable, albeit slow. Paul, the Internet Point host, had regular hours throughout each day in the Internet Cafe and was eager to assist guests with computer questions.

The Internet service was typical for a cruise ship, perhaps even slightly more reliable than most. I use the Internet more than most people since we update our blog from the ship each day and check email 3 or 4 times each day. I was able to accomplish everything in 500 minutes for the entire 14-day cruise.

1000 Minutes - $250
250 Minutes - $85
100 Minutes - $45
Pay-as-you-go $0.50 per minute

The Spa at Silversea & Fitness Center

Silversea Silver SpiritThe Spa located on Deck 6 aft offers guests a wide variety of treatments and is adjacent to the ship's Fitness Center. At first glance, the Fitness Center is looks small for a ship of this size, but close inspection reveals that it contains excellent cardio equipment including treadmills, bicycles, stair climbers, etc. There are also free weights and weight machines. There is a shaded outdoor deck area aft of the Fitness Center with cushioned loungers and a hot tub. One guest said that there was a $25 fee for using this area unless you had a massage scheduled, but I was not able to verify this.

I visited the spa one afternoon to take advantage of the sauna and steam room facilities. I was surprised to learn that the locker room, steam room and sauna on Silver Spirit were unisex, a fact that could have been quite embarrassing had I not specifically asked. I did not see any signs indicating that men and women shared this facility and that bathing suits were required. I am pretty certain that the facilities on Silver Wind and Cloud are separate. The locker room is very small and, since it is coed, you are required to use an adjoining restroom to change clothes. There are no hooks or seating in the restroom (except for the obvious!), so changing in there is cumbersome. Towels and bathrobes are provided and there is no additional charge to use the steam/sauna. There is a shower stall in the room with the steam and sauna, but again, no hooks, so there is no place to hang your towel or robe.

In addition to any kind of massage treatment you can imagine, the spa also offers Botox, Dysport and Restylane injections; however, we could not find any pricing information on any of these services. There is also a fully-equipped beauty salon in the spa for hair and nail treatments. Each day, the Spa advertised specials such as discounts on their Silversea Signature Treatments.

Casino

The casino on Silver Spirit is located on Deck 8 aft and is much larger than on other Silversea ships. There are a variety of slot machines, poker machines and card tables. Craps and Roulette are also available. I visited the casino three or four times and each time I was the only one in there; however, I never visited late at night which is when most people go to the casino. After making a quick and sizable donation to the slot machines, I think I found out why nobody else was there!

The Boutiques of Silversea

Located on Deck 8 aft, the boutiques of Silver Spirit offer the best shopping of any Silversea ship. An excellent logo shop is stocked with a wide variety of caps, polo shirts, t-shirts and other logo items. A small H Stern jewelry store offers high-end jewelry while another shop stocks clothing, formal wear, costume jewelry, sunglasses and fragrances.

SHORE EXCURSIONS

Silversea always offers a wide variety of shore excursions and this was the case on this voyage. If private arrangements are more your style, the Shore Concierge team can make those arrangements for you and suggest itineraries for independent exploration, as well. The Shore Concierge team can make lunch or dinner reservations at local restaurants and help with information and useful tips about the area. Their aim is to help you enjoy the port in the best light and in your own way whether it be a coach tour, a small group adventure or a private van. At each port, an onboard Hospitality Desk is set up for a few hours with a local representative to provide maps and brochures and information about the port that day. This representative could make restaurant suggestions or point out things of interest to see on shore. A service that everyone appreciated was the complimentary shuttle buses that Silversea provided in most ports to transport guests into the local area. This really came in handy when the port and the city you want to visit were many miles apart such as Callao and Lima. Another nice feature was the port and shore excursion information that was always available on your in-suite TV.

PORT-OF-CALL/ITINERARY

We began our journey by flying into Santiago, Chile, for a two-day pre-cruise stay. In fact, we were one of the first international flights to land at the earthquake-damaged airport once they reopened it. There was a little bit of confusion when we landed as to where the aircraft should park but that was soon sorted out. Then we had to remain on the aircraft until all luggage was unloaded and placed in an area outside the makeshift tent that was being used for Customs/Immigration as the building normally housing Customs/Immigration had been severely damaged in the earthquake. When we deplaned, we walked to where all the luggage had been placed, retrieved our bags, then went into the tent and got in line to clear Customs and Immigration. The line moved quickly as they had several agents on duty. Once off the aircraft, we only spent about 10 minutes clearing Customs. We then walked out of the Customs/Immigration tent to where cars were allowed into the airport. We noticed a lot of damage to the outside of the airport building. We also saw another tent set up for what we assumed were departures. It was not long until we saw a man holding a sign with Chris's name on it. This was our driver sent from the Ritz-Carlton to take us to the hotel in downtown Santiago. He pointed out some of the damage done by the earthquake as we made the drive, but we were surprised to see how little damage was evident. It was worth the $70 the car and driver cost to have someone waiting for us and to not have to worry about getting a taxi in a Spanish-speaking country. To read about our experiences at the Ritz-Carlton, Santiago, click here.

On the day of embarkation, we took the motorcoach transfer provided by Silversea to the port of Valparaiso where we boarded Silver Spirit. Embarkation required an additional ride on a smaller bus to reach the ship once we were at the port, but it was, all in all, a simple procedure.

After a leisurely day at sea, our first port-of-call was to be Antofagasta, Chile, but high seas prevented us from calling there. Because the ship had to be cleared to leave Chile to travel to Peru, Captain Sangiacomo had to find an alternate port where the document-checking could take place. This was accomplished at a place I had never heard of and I think we were the first cruise ship to ever be there. The local authorities came out to the ship which was docked outside of the harbor and the paperwork formalities were accomplished.

Another day at sea and our next port-of-call was Pisco but we actually docked at Port San Martin, about a 30-minute drive from Pisco and 15 minutes from Paracas. A shuttle bus was provided here to take guests to a shopping/restaurant area on Chaco Boulevard in Paracas. We were amazed at the terrain that we passed on the way to the shopping area. If you didn't know better, you'd think you were in the Middle East! The sand dunes were amazing. Pisco is the port from which several guests took the excursion to fly over the famous Nazca Lines. We opted to forego an excursion and take the shuttle to Paracas to take a look around then spend a relaxing day on Silver Spirit.

After another day at sea, we reached Callao, the port for Lima, Peru, where we overnighted. The ship's literature states that Lima is only about six miles from Callao, but due to traffic, the drive could take more than an hour! To me, it seemed much farther than six miles between the two cities and they were definitely right about the traffic! Callao is a typical industrialized port city and it is not recommended that guests walk around there. Lima is huge with lots of history and culture worth seeing. From here, some guests took a three-day ship's excursion to the Galapagos Islands and got back on the ship in Ecuador. Before the cruise, we had arranged for a private guide to meet us at the port for a full-day tour of Lima. Monica Velásquez of monicatoursperu.com met us at the port and took us on a marvelous tour of Lima. It was wonderful to be able to go where we wanted and skip what we weren't interested in seeing. At the end of our tour, we had Monica drop us off at the Marriott Hotel so we could catch the shuttle back to the ship in Callao. It was a great day in Lima! Silversea also offered several excursions to see Lima, some of which were night excursions with dinner and entertainment.

The second day in Lima, we took the ship's excursion to the ruins at Pachacamac. Not only did we visit the ancient ruins, but we had lunch and a horse show at a local hacienda where the beautiful Peruvian Paso horses are bred and raised. The weather was warm and sunny and there was lots of walking involved at the Incan ruins. You definitely need comfortable shoes and a hat and sunglasses for this excursion.

We had another day at sea before docking at Manta, Ecuador. Even though one excursion was offered here and a shuttle was provided to a local artisans' market and to a shopping mall, I think we mainly stopped here to pick up the guests who had taken the Galapagos excursion. In Manta, we were surprised to learn that the Panama hat is really made in Ecuador. We took the shuttle to the artisans' market in search of a magnet and we bought a Panama (Ecuador) hat there. We took the shuttle to the mall next and found the magnet! Victory! Other than the one excursion and the artisans' market, there wasn't a lot to do in Manta.

After another day at sea, we arrived in Puntarenas, Costa Rica's major Pacific port on the Gulf of Nicoya. The excursions offered here all required a long motorcoach or van ride into the interior to take part in some of the eco-activities for which Costa Rica is famous. Guests could choose among activities such as zip lining or river rafting or sky walking in the tropical jungle. We chose the Corobici River Floating excursion and enjoyed it although it was a very long van ride to get there and back and not such a long rafting experience.

Another day at sea was followed by a visit to Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala. There is absolutely nothing where we docked but a few local artisans selling their goods. Here again, any excursion requires a lengthy ride into the interior. Two of the excursions, each to visit Mayan ruins, required airplane flights. We opted for the Pacaya Volcano Climb, which turned out to be one of the most physically challenging excursions we have ever taken! After lunch at a local eatery, we barely made it back to the ship before time to sail but we did have a few minutes to check out the local wares at the pier. We bought a hand-woven belt and what else....a magnet!

One more day at sea and we docked in Acapulco where we ended our part of the voyage.

SUMMARY

Silversea has done it again. They remain at the top of their game and have managed to transfer 5-star service onto this larger platform. In our opinion, Silver Spirit is the perfect addition to an already great, luxury cruise line. With more dining options, expanded entertainment, top-notch service and unbeatable itineraries, Silver Spirit has everything it needs to deliver the ultimate cruise experience to the discerning cruise enthusiast.